Bob Nodine

I don't see where anyone has mentioned this so I will. If the weather is hot don't run your fan on auto and place the fan on the highest speed and leave it there. Let the compressor cycle via the thermostat.

Steve, Our 2006 Diplomats have a very poorly thought out 110 VAC electrical design. Almost all of the duplex outlets in the coach are powered thru a single 20 amp circuit breaker on the front of the inverter. There are two of these push button 20 amp circuit breakers on the front of the inverter and the other one is dedicated to the microwave. The inverter itselfs has a single 30 amp input circuit breaker in the main distribution panel that feeds both the inverter and the bypass relay internal to the inverter. The inverter has a max output of 2000 watts but that only matters if you are not connected to shore power. When connected to shore power the bypass relay bypasses the inverter so you only have to worry about the power consumed by the battery charger and the devices connected to the two circuit breakers. Bottom line is that unless you just pulled into a campsite and the battery charger is going full blast and you are running the microwave and have lots of stuff running off the duplex outlet, you are not going to trip that 30 amp breaker in the main panel. What you are going to trip, usually at night when you are running around in your underwear, is that single 20 amp breaker on the front of the inverter. After this happened a couple of time to me I decided to wire in some extra outlets in the bath area and hall that go to a dedicated 20 amp twist lock connector in the service bay. I made up a heavy duty cord with a matching 20 amp twist lock connector on one end and a standard 20 amp plug on the other. Since most of our camping is with shore power I simply plug that into the 20 amp or 30 amp outlet in the pedestal when we hook up. Some pedestals do not have a 20 amp connection so we carry an adapter that allows us to plug into the 30 amp socket. We plug electric heaters, hair dryers, and my wife's rice cooker into those dedicated duplex outlets. That saves me from modeling my underwear in the campground.

Lazydays at Tampa sells and installs the Tyron bands and that is where we purchased ours quite a few years ago. I would think the Alliance location would also know how to deal with the bands. I was not aware that the spacers were a wear item. Seems to me that if they are wearing something is wrong because the band should not be slipping on the rim. There is nothing special about the tire tool Bill is using. He sent me a link to it. https://tinyurl.com/ycsk3dvl

Mike, I have owned the Tyrons for over 10 years and purchased two new bolts at the Gathering in Feb. Sorry if I misled you into thinking I was inexperienced with the Tyrons. After doing a brake job on the coach myself last fall and talking to Bill Groves who purchased some used Tyrons and installed them along with new tires, I feel confident I can do the same. I got excited when I saw the homemade compression tool made from a four point lug wrench because it looked much easier to use than the Spider kit. Sure it is not portable but I have no intention of carrying something like that in the coach. I have been thinking about different ways to compress the tires. After doing the brake job I had all the wheels off and back on the coach by myself and know it would be simple to remove the front wheels and lay them down on the ground. I am not a fan of the beads and have heard many good reports on the Centramatic wheel balaners. I know this sounds ridiculous to many but I have always liked doing my own work when I can. I have a garage with a 220 volt two stage air compressor, a 1 inch air wrench, a torque multiplier, and a torque wrench that I can set the 500 foot lbs on the lug nuts.

Yes, we are loving them and don't miss the curtains.

Mike, I have the original Spider tool and it is flimsy and difficult to use. I just carry it in the coach in case of emergency. The front tires have been replaced once since installing the Tyrons and the tire shop did not want to use the Spider tool. Next time I am considering changing the front tires myself in my garage and that is why I am interested in that homemade compression tool. I plan on using Centramatic tire balancers and purchasing some tire tools that Bill Groves uses.

Mike, I like that compression tool made from a four point tire tool. Going to have to make one of those.

Have not used it. Just saw there might be a possibility of getting what you needed there.

Good to hear back from you Gary and glad you are having a positive experience with the new units. Our experience has been very positive and the new units do a good job keeping the coach cool on hot days. In 2018 we spent the night in Mesquite, NV on our way to Salt Lake City and it was 105 degrees. Sure was glad we had the new units and hate to think how hot it would have been inside the coach with the old ones.

Try this: https://delorme-street-atlas-usa-2015-plus.software.informer.com/download/

What about speed? Is it at a particular speed range? Could be a harmonic . I don't think an alignment will have any affect. The first thing I would do is swap the tires with two on the rear to see if that moves the problem.

You push on the plunger so you can slide the bracket up to the next hole. Move each side one hole at a time and test until you get the angle you are looking for. On our coach we cannot get a decent slope because the awning hits the top of the slide.

Paul, the drawer slides are a nice touch. I might have to look into that.

I have lost track of how many modifications we have made to our coach. Guess it would behoove me to compile a list. The latest major mod was to replace the curtains in the windshield are with MCD shades.

I agree, sounds like the 12 volt house disconnect (also known as the salesman switch) has been activated to disconnect a majority of the 12 volt house loads or the solenoid that does the actual disconnect has failed. A very common problem and there are countless posts on this subject. Many of us, myself included, have bypassed the solenoid. You simply remove the large battery cable form one side of the solenoid and put them both together on the same side or remove both cables and connect them with a bolt and then tape up the bare portion.

Fred White was also a big supporter of Monacoers and sadly he to has passed. I knew them all and miss them.

I believe you will find the other Zerk fitting below the floor just above the steering sector. It is not accessible from inside the coach.

I don't see any big advantage going to LED taillights. LED's inside the coach offer reduced heat and power consummation and make them ideal for dry camping. Your taillights are used when the engine is running and the alternator is keeping the chassis battery charged. When you apply the service brake you want your taillights to be as bright as possible to get the attention of drivers behind you. Vehicles equipped with LED's by the OEM are usually designed to provide adequate brightness for daylight use but merely replacing a filament bulb with an LED substitute may not provide enough brightness. You should compare the lumens between the OEM 1157 and the LED so called equivalent carefully before make the purchase.

I would not cut thru the closet wall in an attempt to access the camera wiring. Just pull the camera from the outside and there should be enough slack to get to the connector. If the cable is good you could change the connector to match the new camera. We had the Weldex camera system, which was junk. The rear camera was intermittent and usually went on the blink when we needed it. Tried fixing it from both ends and decided to install a Voyager. I was able to run a new cable by drilling a hole in the wood floor of the rear cap near the radiator and fishing the cable up to the camera location. Managed to pull the cable thru the pipe chase above the frame up to the dash. Discarded the crappy Weldex monitor and replaced with a Voyager monitor. Attached the side cameras and the old rear camera to the new Voyager monitor along with the new rear camera. The old rear camera still works and is still intermittent. It had up/down pan and we have it panned all the way down to the hitch and use it to view what is going on with the hitch.

Our rear axle is rated at 20,000. We have owned this coach for almost 15 years and are the second owner. Coach has about 110,000 miles on the odometer and has been to Alaska and back. We have always been over about 300 lbs on the rear axle and have never had a problem. We have read that, because of Federal regulations, axles rated for over 20,000 lbs will put the vehicle in a different class and RV manufactures are reluctant to use them. We have also been told that the 20,000 lbs axles may actually be capable of a weight capacity greater than 20,000.

You guys suggesting the use of hair catching strainers over the drain are lucky if that is keeping the hair out of your Sanicon. My problem is the wife! She actually is quite good at taking a paper towel and removing hair form the drain strainer in the shower. The main source for hair in our black tank is thru the toilet. You see, my wife uses a hair dryer and it blows hair into the toilet. I have tried to remind her to always close the lid on the toilet but have finally decided it is easier to just clean out the Sanicon and keep my mouth shut!😉

As Dennis says, you have to remove the Sanicon from the box. As you can see from the attached photo I have removed my permanently. Remove the three screws I have indicated in the photo. You may need a right angle Phillips and you do not have to completely remove the screws from the housing just make sure they are loose and the head should pull apart. There are two chambers, the pump chamber and the macerate chamber. Unless everyone in your family is completely bald you will have hair wrapped around the macerater blades. Eventually everyone who has a Sanicon will have to take the head apart and remove the hair because it builds to a point that the pump will not function. The pump chamber has a rubber impeller that rotates against the housing to form a pump to move the liquid waste out to the hose. Sometimes this impeller gets damaged or worn out and must be replaced. You should inspect it while you have the Sanicon disassembled.

We have seen mechanics that were not aware that there are actually two fuel filters on your coach. Did the mechanic change both fuel filters. The secondary fuel filter is often overlooked and could be plugged. We have a 2006 Diplomat and the secondary fuel filter is located to the right of the radiator when facing forward from the rear (passenger side). Remove the panel that covers the hydraulic fluid tank and look down. It should be there.

We don't have the ability to start from the engine compartment either. I think this feature would only be available on side radiator coaches. Not much benefit on a rear radiator coach since you must be inside the coach to have the engine exposed. Bob

That is just a plain crazy way to design the system. If it were my coach I would move the water pump to the bay were the tank is and get it as low a possible. Your pump may be having trouble getting primed that far from the tank with the non-gravity feed configuration. Any air in the line will make priming the pump difficult. Our original pump was down low in the bay an easily primed by gravity feed. That pump went south and I replaced it with a much better pump that had a good lifting spec because the pump had to be relocated to the ceiling of the compartment due it's increased size. It works now but I had a time getting all the air out and it primed the first time.