Just Jim

The original post was asking for something that would not run down the side and stain them. I did my roof the spring that Covid hit. Had to find something to do. I used the Dicor products, but they will most certainly stain metal and the sides. The instructions state that you should tape off and hang plastic around the sides. I did not realize the cleaner would affect the metal and did not protect the ladder, etc. Anyway, it is a long and fairly difficult process and timing is important also unless you have a covered area to work. First you remove all the old caulk, etc. Wash the roof, sand the roof, wash the roof again. Then paint with their fiberglass paint, but you can't let any water on it for about 10 hours... that is where the timing comes in. In order, to wash the roof and get it dry, then paint it two coats with drying in between then no water including dew... it can be a challenge. The end result was very nice... my fiberglass had some very small checks in it and the sanding and painting really filled those in nicely. Also, be careful up on a slippery roof!!!

Nope, that powers the wobblin shaft for the smoke grinder.

I think just magic elbow grease is what most people use. I invested in a cover and it is a wonderful thing.

I little more success. I found some black wires in the back near the engine and batteries. It appears the solenoid that goes to the "salesman switch" is the culprit. I jumped a known positive wire to one of the black wires and have operable dash fans and basement compartment lights. Now my question is... can I eliminate that solenoid? I really hate having that power switch up by the front door. Whenever you are carrying something wide or your inadvertently hit the switch it kills all the power. Just a PIA place to have that switch. So, can I just tie all those power cables together on one post of some kind? Other than not having a switch to turn off the power is there any other negative? I currently don't have any kind of battery cut off back by the batteries. Would installing a switch there be the same thing? I can take pictures of that area if you need them. Thanks again to everyone that has replied. It is so helpful to have this group of people that can share their knowledge!!! Jim

small success. I disconnected the black wire that comes in and jumped a positive and the basement lights and dash fans worked. Now the bigger issue is I have no idea where that large black wire comes from. I do not have battery disconnects and the other 12v house circuits work. Any suggestions where I might look for a large black 12 v wire running from one end to the other? It comes out of the top of the FRB, but cannot see anything looking down through the driver's left side controls (I can remove the cup holder and see a mess of wires but none of them are the size of the black one). Any suggestions/guesses as to where that wire runs would be appreciated, I really have no idea where to even start to look.

Thanks so much for the replies. Cleaning and making sure they were tight is on the list to do. There is no power coming to the large looped around black wire, so I'll see if I can trace a source of where it is coming from. The solenoid side seems to be working fine. I'm thinking if the black wire is a positive, then I should be able to disconnect the black wire and jump a known good positive to that terminal to see if the dash fans, etc work? I would at least know the direction I had to go to run down a break or blown fuse or something.... from the FRB back to the batteries. Does that sound reasonable? Ivy, I was curious about that positive jumper wire myself. No idea why that is there, but that is how it came from the factory. The clearance lights work, but they are not your normal lights. That must be the interrupt switch so you can use the ICC switch on the dash to flash the lights??? Just a guess. Thanks again everyone. Jim

Upon further review... It appears that the dash fans, compartment lights and step are all on this upper block with the large black wire coming in and looping down to the bottom. This particular electrical block appears to be wired opposite of the other blocks in the FRB as all the others have a large red wire coming in. So, it would appear to my limited electrical mind that the small wires are the positive side and the large black wire is the negative? If so, where do the small wires get their power? I would assume that all those circuits are not switched with the ignition and are powered somewhere else, so any suggestions where to look for that power source?

so, I read a couple other threads that indicated an intermittent lack of dash fans, cruise control, dash lights, step retraction, etc. might be a bad ignition solenoid located in the FRB. So, short of replacing it, is there a way to test the solenoid? As in jumping from one side to another to see if the dash fans work? Also, all the 12v lights in the basement do not work. I have no idea if these are related as I rarely used the lights and when one didn't work, I assumed it was a bulb that needed to be replaced. When I finally got around to checking bulbs, I figured out that none of them worked, but no idea if the timing was the same as the lack of dash fans. Again, the dash fans are not something I used very often. I've checked the fuses and they are good. To replace the solenoid, remove it and find a part number? Is it likely a local auto parts store will have it? Thanks a bunch. Jim 95 Dynasty.

much more info needed. Do you have an 12v power? Do you have power unplugged from post? Do you have power with Genset on?

Is that a set screw on each of the gear collars? You might be able to adjust the alignment a little if they are. No actual experience with this... just a guess.

Stephen, I had the same issue on mine, so not odd at all. It would start and idle, but the accelerator did nothing. It would just idle. In the original post, he had a loss of power that after a period of time it returned and operated normally. So, I did not suggest checking this. This really sounds like the exhaust brake hung open for a while.

This is just a SWAG, but perhaps the exhaust break stuck open. Normally, I'd think it was air related, perhaps a blocked air inlet or filter, but not sure that would just go away. Glad to hear you didn't have to change your plans much.

I'm certainly not an expert on the electrical, but this does not sound like an inverter issue. Perhaps a transfer switch is the problem. The inverter, changes 12v DC to AC and should not really be involved if you are plugged into 50amp service. I'm sure someone else with a lot more knowledge will weigh in on this.

Let me know if you need another set of hands. I'm in West Knoxville so can't be to far from you. I love the phrase that the only thing working 100% of the time on an RV is the owner.

Congrats on the CA battle!!! I'd love to have the schematics for my 95 also, if they are out there. Does everyone name their coach? I thought I was an odd ball for calling her Roxy.

I'm in East TN also, when you get real good at this, You can do mine too. LOL. I'm in the camp of don't fix it. I certainly fixed the leaks, but as far as the sides... does not bother me at all. On a 1995 model there is always something to work on.

regarding the genset, it should use the chassis batteries for starting. No prior experience with the fuel gauge issue. Make sure you have at least a third tank of fuel as it will have a shut off so you can not run the tank dry while camping with the genset running. More info on what the generator is doing would help. turns over but does not start. starts but quits, etc, etc.

Thanks Frank, I've not heard of that before. That would be something that Cummins can provide? Seems like an electronic version would be easier if possible. I am looking for a pre DPF coach... something in the 2004 to 2007 Dynasty, Executive or Signature line. I have no experience at all with them, but I've heard great things about the Detroit engines that you occasionally see in a Executive or Signature.

He will surely be missed on this forum. Prayers to the family for peace and comfort.

That was my plan Dennis. I was also going to do an engine oil analysis, but when I reviewed the paperwork, there was nothing indicating any service history. There were some other issues, like a soft spot in the floor, the aqua hot exhaust pipe was missing... just determined that there was to many obvious signs that it had not been taken care of.

I am definitely old school... which is why when I saw the number I thought that it might have been salvage yard type thing. Thanks for the info. This was a coach that had obviously not been well maintained, so I was somewhat leery of it and then I saw that number on the valve cover. It was certainly priced well, but I think there are to many unknowns. Thanks again, Jim

I've recently looked at a Dynasty that was for sale, and noticed a number like this on the valve cover. I am not familiar with seeing that on there and was curious if that is normal or would it indicate that it has been replaced?

On my coach, it requires one of the screws to be connected to the chassis ground. For the clearance lights, there is also a switch on the dash to flash the lights as a "thank you" indication when someone lets you pass, etc. It was a very odd configuration that I originally thought would be an easy change out... ended up taking me the better part of a day!!!

I like many have seen this topic several times. My coach is a 95 and it seems all those parts are in the back, mounted on the firewall. I replaced my alternator about 9 nine years ago and took it to a alternator shop to get it working. I was on a trip when it went out, and replaced it while camping, but never got it working properly. The alternator shop got it working but he said he could not get the alternator to "turn off". Said it was constantly drawing power and would run the chassis batteries down if I didn't install a switch. I did not install a switch, just seemed like would be something I'd forget to turn back on... so I just keep a trickle charger on the batteries when parked. The post above has me thinking that perhaps I could replace my isolation box with the ML ACR and could fix my constantly "on" alternator??? BTW, I had the old alternator rebuilt and kept the what looked like to me to be a Ford regulator, in case I ever needed it. Have had no issues so far. Anyone have a idea about this, feel free to advise. Jim

looks very nice, just curious how you got the new one inside.... through the front windshield or take out the front seat and through the door? Also, certainly would not trash a working old fridge... put it on Craig's List. I'm sure someone will buy it.