Just Jim

waiting on the pictures. I have planned on doing the same thing for a while now. Did you remove the cabinet to cut it down? I am thinking of doing mine in place as I'm not sure how to get it out safely without damage. Would love to reduce the size of that head knocker!!!

If you enjoy fixing and maintaining then you are in for a good time. The coaches are pretty solid, except for if someone got behind on routine maintenance. If it has not been driven much, I'd check the rear wheel bearings too. Make sure the fuel shut off solenoid bolts are tight. Seems like I remember someone having an issue of them working themselves loose. I'd go easy on the eternabond tape... and not sure about enamel on fiberglass. There is a special process of sanding, cleaning and sealing that is not an easy process but it sure looks good when you are done. If you inspect the fiberglass closely for spider cracks, etc you will know when that is needed. The air dryer is something that seems to get overlooked. I opted to just replace the entire unit. Fuel filters are always a source of problems if that gets neglected. Hopefully it has the Winn fuel/water/air system on it... easiest way to prime it after servicing it. The inverter/charger may need to be swapped out... those have improved considerably in the last 25 years... I also replaced all the 12 volt lights with LED... Let me know if you run into something particular. This is a great forum for these older coaches. Happy trails. Jim

Mine has been difficult to open for many years. I think I'm about the only one that can open the door at this point. My door is different than your pictures and requires removing the entire inside cover/trim. I've read your repair instructions before and I guess it is time to finally attempt this project. However, it seems like a ton of work for something so simple.

MD Distributors has the 300200 as well.

https://www.mddistributorsstore.com/index.php?page=seek&id[m]=pattern&id[q]=S3230P This is where I buy mine.

I have not bought any in over a year as I usually buy several when I order them, but I've not had a problem getting them. My difficulty was the 300200 pre filter, which from time to time seems to be on back order. Again... I bought 5-6 of those last time.

what are the dimensions or model number? Location? thanks, Jim

I liked the idea of the Manabloc system, but in reality I never used it. When mine failed I just replaced it with a copper fitting tree. No issues since.

Whew, so many things going on here. I don't really know where to start. Simple answer is yes, you can get the old one rebuilt and many times it is the best solution, but leave it as it is and just put the rebuilt alternator back in as it was. Do a search on here. This topic has been widely discussed in the past as many of us have faced this issue.

glad to hear you at least have a temporary fix. Safe travels tomorrow!!!

I would have thought that the Pilot would have had it... so sorry for your troubles. Its always an adventure owning an RV.

If you can't get it fixed, you could put rain X on it. Unless it is raining really hard... you won't even need a wiper.

The GFI is the first thing I thought of. The wiring never made sense to me on my coach. I think the GFI in the bathroom also has the basement plug on it, etc. etc. I think you said you replaced the GFIs with regular outlets? You might make sure you have them all. I have at least three in my coach. Other than the GFI, if you replaced outlets, you might go back through and make sure all the wires are still connected. Bumping and banging down the road can work magic on otherwise good connections. I'll leave the issue of replacing GFIs with regular outlets to another discussion. Another good piece of info would be do the outlets work on shore power and/or when the Gen is running.

hey Bobby, I have a 95 Dynasty and there are several others that have them in this same general date range. I think there are some files in the downloads section that might help. If you have any other general questions, just ask. Most everyone on here is very willing to give you their opinion. HaHa. Jim

Wow Ken, Can I hire you to come work on mine? LOL. My 95 most likely needs or will need some of those things you have done. I've wondered about shock replacements as it seems the ride is really bouncy at times. The airbags still seem to work, but I just wonder how much longer they will last. My air activated step well cover does not work and I've worked on some of the air valves to at least stem the air leaks. My dash heat does not work, which is not a big issue until you need to defrost the windshield.

I've got a 95. Give me an idea what you are needing and I'd be glad to speak with you if its something I have some knowledge about.

usually you have to pay to have them disposed of... perhaps someone might want to use them on the rear of a tractor trailer but I doubt it.

I created a mostly disposable redneck fuel tank filter system to clean mine. I used a old garden hose a pump and a cheap house hold water filter canister. Buy about a dozen of the filters and changed them out about every 5 minutes. I considered draining the tank and cleaning, but it was almost full and I didn't want to fool with trying to move 100 gallons into barrels, etc. You basically pump the fuel out, it runs through the filter and right back into the tank. Make the out hose long enough to reach the bottom and move it around to stir up all the junk that has been accumulating for 25 years. It worked really well and then treat heavily to make sure it doesn't come right back.

Yep, check the fuel filter, but also the AIR filter. Either will result in a loss of power.

It could be worse... I had a friend that bought a used coach and he checked the tire codes... all seemed good until he was going down the road and one of the inside rears blew and took out all sorts of storage compartments and wiring. The tire codes on the inside ones were about 15 years old. You just have to wonder who would be so cheap and deceitful to only replace the outside tires, but they are out there.

intermittent power is pretty common with a faulty "salesman" switch solenoid. Usually there is a power switch near the entrance that connects to a solenoid. Open the rear engine bay and have someone flip that switch on and off. You should hear a click in one of the many solenoids mounted back there. Sometimes tapping on it will get it unstuck or like me you can just disconnect it. Starting the engine may have accomplished the same thing as tapping on it to get it to engage. Its an easy fix if this is your issue. Jim

nice work. I'm curious though... you use hot water in your toilet?

was that the bottom sweep gasket you found at Lowes? I need one also.

I am certainly not the electrician in the crowd, but I think those are transfer switches...technically not relays. depending on the source of power, ie shore, genset or inverter they switch appropriately. Of course, I could be completely wrong. Jim

On mine, I made sure the glass panel was securely attached to the wall. You might try putting an additional screw in the top to make sure it has not sagged. Also, I took the door off and put a washer under the bottom pin to raise it up a little. Mine no longer drags and opens and closes easily. Hope this helps. Jim