Just Jim

I had a 95 dynasty, but don't recall any labeling like that. Does it look like original or you think perhaps a prior owner wired something in "special". A picture might help. Typically, it was the ground faults that would trip and not work. Make sure you check the outlet in the basement to see if it has power and the outlet in the engine bay. Seems really odd to have breakers that are off but no outlets anywhere that are not working.

Hi everyone, I bought Chucks mirrors that he had listed above. I've got them installed and thought I'd list my old ones in case someone needs parts or was planning on painting them. The mirrors are in good shape, and they function as they should. I can't say if the heating elements function as I've not used that yet. The "chromed" plastic has several places that are peeling as you can see from the pictures. These do not have the turn signals in the mirror. Would prefer to sell them as a pair for $150 plus shipping, but if you just need one, then let me know and make an offer. Jim

so... still learning the new coach... somewhat of an expensive lesson this weekend. The fuel gauge does not work very well and while driving it was showing way above F, which I knew was not correct. Anyway, stuck in traffic and a frog strangler rain storm and then was on a pretty good incline with a tilt to the left and yep.... she quit right there in the middle of the interstate. Traffic was already backed up, but it got worse with me blocking one of two lanes. Long story short... service truck delivered 30 gallons of fuel for $510.00. So.... I can't see the sending unit on my tank. It is 150 gallons I think... filler on both sides. The info on the centroid page... (assuming I have that brand) says that a gauge indication way past F was an indication of water in the tank. Anyone with a similar coach have an idea how you would go about getting to the sending unit? I suppose there is a way to test for water? Is there a drain on the bottom of the tank to drain it? Any help would be much appreciated. Jim

Not sure if you figured this out yet, but on my 03 Executive I removed the front panels of the cabinets right next to the entrance door. They don't have handles, but they were designed to be removed fairly easily. Also, my satellite control box was up there too. Removed that and gives you additional access. You can get access to the wiring through there. I've been lucky so far and have not had to run any additional wires as I already had an HDMI and power cord in place, but I was considering adding a Roku device to my old TV so I was checking to see if I could get an additional power cable in there. Have to reach around behind the cabinet, but I think it can be done. Might be able to fish a stiff wire through and then pull the cable that you need. Good luck.

Thanks, Rick. I thought it was something fairly simple as I could not figure any other way to mount the TV in there, but I hated to pry those decorative pieces off if I didn't need to. I've had issues with those things in the past not going back on very well. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks again! Jim

I hope this is a fairly easy question. I have the motorized drop down TV and it appears that the DVD player has come unhooked.... I can see the wires dangling inside. To get to the wires on the back of the TV do you just remove the little decorative plugs and there is a screw underneath? I do plan to eventually replace that TV with something else, so I'm going to need to figure out how you unbolt it from the drop down mechanism. Again, I hope this is just as easy as pulling off the plugs and taking out screws that hold a panel on. Thanks in advance. Jim

Does it sound like when the battery is not sufficient to turn it over? I realize the battery is most likely ok, but just curious if it might be a low voltage situation. No issues with alternator? Possibly a loose battery connection. Perhaps drive it and get it to the point that it will only click and apply a good positive connection directly to the starter. If it turns over, then you at least have something to try and track down. Also, I wonder if you have a bad solenoid? There are many guys on here that are much more savvy on these things and I'm sure you will get some good info from them.

I am not familiar with your specific coach, so hopefully someone else can also comment, but it looks like you have room to let the air bags down and/or lower the front? That would obviously let the rear come down some as well. Just a guess but, I suspect with the rear jacks extended that far, you are going to get some wobble. Perhaps try finding some level ground that does not need much jacking and see if you can get it level without having the back up so high. If the wobble is less, then that gives you some info. If it still wobbles, then perhaps its just a function of your coaches frame/character. Again, hopefully some other folks with that style coach can give some insight into if this is a "normal" situation or if you have other and much larger problems.

Les, it really sounds like you have an area that requires to much leveling. Perhaps post a picture of your set up?

Sorry, Brian. Perhaps someone else will chime in with some experience with the lock. Have not had that issue.

Just to make sure... if its unlocked you can still open the door easily from outside? There has been considerable info posted about the mechanism wearing and making it more difficult to open the door. That problem is not a function of the key unlocking... it is the door mechanism not working properly when the door is unlocked.

Thanks for the info. I'm still fuzzy on how this works. You have the controller and all the LED strips have to plug into it? If you plug two in... then that is two zones that can be controlled separately? If you have inside lights in 3 different areas that don't connect, then going to need 3 controllers? Thanks again. Jim

That does look nice. Like some of the others.... I need "how to" instructions. Is the receiver built into the light strip? I have replaced the rope lights under the bottom of my cabinets with LED strips. Would be nice to be able to dim them, but I suspect I have the wrong kind of strip. I would like to add lights to the outside though. Looks like you used the porch light as your source of power? Did you do the inside steps or just the one outside? Ideally, I would love to be able to control grab handles, step well lights and outside lights.

stretching an airbag is not really a concern. I think they are only attached on one end... someone else can confirm that. The coach should not rock, at least when you first level it. Sometimes after a few days you might get some settling and have to adjust again to stop it from rocking. All of this really depends on the degree of slope you have that you are parking on. You should be able to level without having a tire off the ground which is really dangerous as if you have that much slope it can roll off the jacks. It sounds like you have automatic leveling since you say they rise in the correct order. Frankly, I may start with the auto level, but then adjust as mine has never really done a perfect job of it. Obviously, if it is rocking then one of the jacks is not down or perhaps it has a leak. Does it always rock, or is it something that happens over time?

Thanks so much Walter. The "jumper" is a small fuse and three plugs. I swapped the fuse over to the other plug and I have flashing lights and my baggage doors lock and unluck. Now that I know all that works. I'll order the new keypad. Thanks again. Your info was essential!!!

making progress. The new key fobs open the entrance door. However, my coach does not have a "dome light" and there was no wire in the harness to connect the 2nd black/white wire to. The parking lights do not flash either, not a big deal on this... just a "cool" factor. I did plug in the little LED light and I guess it gives the impression that there is a security alarm. I may mount that somewhere, don't really like the idea of a hole in my dash though. Lastly, you mention changing a switch to make the baggage doors work. I opened the box and there is a red fuse in there and another connection. Sorry, but I don't know what you mean by "swapping a jumper". Pull the fuse out? Anyway, I am glad to at least be making progress and feel like I'm close. If I could jump that swapper I think I'd have it made. LOL. Jim

hey Walter, your notes: Updated wiring: Original Box Wiring>>>>>>>>New Avital box wiring Red(Constant 12v)>>>>>>>>>>Red Green/Black(Lock)>>>>>>>>>>White/Green Blue/Black(Unlock)>>>>>>>>>>White/Red Purple/White(Unlock BayDoors)>>Red/White White(Parking Lights)>>>>>>>>White Black/White(Dome Light)>>>>Black/White Black, Black/White,Violet, Violet/Black(Grnd)>>Black, Gray So, I'm trying to match up your wiring notes to what I have. My existing wiring does not have a green/black wire or a blue/black wire. I assume you mean a green wire with black stripe or something similar to that? The existing wiring does have a black and a white/black. The new wiring does not have a white/green or a white/red. It does have a Red/white and two black/white wires. So would love some clarity on your instructions above. Does black, black/white, violet, violet/black mean to tie all those together and connect to the black, and grey? You have the black/white listed twice... once going to the black/white and also to the black and gray. In looking at the new wiring harness that I received, it seems to match what you have listed as the original wiring. Perhaps you have the titles switched? Original should be the new Avital box? I'm still missing a few of the wires for what I have as existing... but maybe I can figure it out.

Making some progress. The white plug in the picture was not connected. When I connected them it made a beep and 4 of the 5 keypad buttons light up. I suspect 3/4 is bad and perhaps that is why it was unplugged. Another picture is of a little push button switch that was hanging loose inside the armrest. Could that be the door bell mechanism? If not, other ideas? The last picture is the only thing I found inside the bathroom that could be a door bell??? Update. Ok... so I figured out what the little button is for. That is to reprogram the keypad. So I push it and get the 4 quick beeps. I have then tried entering 1119 but do not get the 3 beebs... if I wait a few seconds I get the 2 beebs that indicates it has reset. I had hoped I could reprogram it and just not use the numbers 3 and 4. The prior owner has all the bay doors wiring disconnected. Could that be the problem with not resetting the master? He said something about that he got tired of being locked out of the coach as why he disconnected them.

Thanks guys. I'll order a wireless unit and some key fobs and poke around on the keypad to see if I can figure out if it is bad. Should I buy the wireless unit from A1 since they have good instructions on how to rewire? Jim

Ok, found something called the RV data card. Is that the same as the build sheet? It has Essex KE 1603 keyless entry. It says "keys entry door" Trimark and also Trimark for the baggage doors. I assume this is the actual key? I don't see anything for a security system or a door bell. Not sure this data card is complete. I opened the dash compartment and attached pictures. There are two small boxes with lots of wires and no writing on them. Anyone recognize what these are? One has no writing and the other has #19 on it.

Sorry to hear about Lilly. Will make for some sad travels not having her along.

I may try to check that out tomorrow. I'm not small, limber or young so it will be a challenge. I did manage to check the central vacuum that is under the bathroom sink. That is an awful place to put it because changing the bag is a nightmare. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep you posted. That is on my list of things to do tomorrow too. I'll see if I can find the build sheet and may just pop that cover off and take a look in there. Thanks again for the help. Jim

Thanks Walter. The keypad does nothing. I guess I'll need to do a little trouble shooting on it to see if I can figure out why. I'm also going to dig through the paperwork and see if I can figure out if I have the Viper alarm too. It appears from your post that I need to replace the keypad and the wireless box in the dash? Or if I can get the keypad working then just the wireless box? Also, would the Viper alarm be under the dash also or someplace else? Any idea on where the door bell dinger is located? Thanks again!!! Jim

Thanks Ivan, It at least gives me some things to check.

I did a quick search of the cabinets on the door side and found no bell. It may have been completely removed??? No idea what the Ford keypad looks like so I took a picture of it.