Just Jim

So... I'm coming back around to this upgrade again. I have a trip coming up in May where I'm going to be unplugged for at least a week and would like to get the solar upgraded to handle the parasitic drain on the batteries. The manual says that the existing controller can handle 4 85watt panels. My hair brain question is... if I find used 100 watt panels do you think the degradation of being used would make them compatible with that controller. I'm thinking I would replace the existing panel and install four of the same type under that scenario. And.... an alternate question as I don't really like the idea of having 4 panels... could I install a single 300 watt panel or 2 150 watt panels? In other words the controller is rated for 4 x 85 watts, does it have to be 4 panels to make up a total wattage or can I stay under 340 watts and use fewer panels? Lastly, IF I went the route of a new controller and panels, would it be as simple as wiring the new controller into where the existing one is... and adding a couple of 300-400 watt panels on the roof? The existing wiring would be sufficient???? Thanks in advance. I'm really leaning toward the new controller and panels, I'm just afraid of having to run new larger gauge wiring through some of those tight spaces. Jim

I am looking for a bottom section of the ladder. Not sure it would match though. Pictures?

Most of the jack pumps I've seen are in the front of the coach, but I'm not familiar with your particular vehicle. Perhaps someone that has experience with your coach will chime in. If you turn on the system and have someone press a button you may hear the pump running and can track it down. Fixing peeling clear coat can be very difficult. The paint is not very thick and difficult to sand down in order to re apply the clear coat.

yep... seems like a pretty useless link. It appears to be a private group.

Thanks Mike, I'll have to do a search for a "hush box"... no telling what kind of info I'll get. LOL

Yes. I use one too

I understand... that is what thought. I think it would be ok for a while. Doubtful that the water would evaporate with no open facet. I had a Suburban WH in my old coach and never got it to work on electric. I like to dry camp so I really preferred the propane anyway.

If this is one of the propane water heaters and not an Aqua Hot, then the answer is yes I think.... if the tank is empty. I don't think this is a problem if you still have water in the system, but have the pump off. A little more info would be helpful as to the type of system and the current state of water in it. Was the heater left on by mistake??? Not sure of the situation.

I'm sure some of the noise is the inherent diesel sounds, but there is considerable noise from the exhaust pipe as well. Again just curious if anyone has ever tried to quiet it down with a different muffler. Next time I'm camping and find a really quiet one, I'm going to ask the owner what kind of generator it is...

I have a "quiet diesel" 10k Onan that actually is not really all that quiet. While camping I've noticed other generators that are very quiet and I'm just curious if anyone has replaced the muffler in order to get a quieter experience? This is a low priority modification as I've got much bigger "fish to fry" as the saying goes, but again was just curious if this was a project I could at least put on the agenda.

any idea if this headlight assembly would also fit the 2003 Executive? Thanks

Do a good search of this forum. I recall a discussion a while back of how to re-wire the plugs... it was related to the Bluefire system but that does not really matter but may help you locate the thread that had instructions on how someone else had done this. My fairly good memory does not remember anything to do with the triptek... it had to do with the wires from the old J1708 and adding a couple to it from the transmission harness to create the J1939 plug... (I think). Let me know if you can't find it and I'll search for it.

Do a search... this subject is pretty well documented. My personal opinion is if you have a good rebuilder locally, then go that route. It is a really odd system and many alternator specialists still will not be able to wire it properly if you go the replacement route.

I'm surprised your title indicates a Dynasty... my 95 was listed as "roadmaster", because that was the chassis.

Finally, getting back to some maintenance items and dropped the decorative cover to clean the HVAC filters. The filters/screens were attached with a sheet rock screw at the corners which allowed the filters to hang down with fairly large gaps on the sides. So, 1st question (this does not appear to be how they were originally installed...) how should they be put back in so that they actually filter the incoming air? 2nd question, are they actually needed? I saw where some said they had removed them to increase air flow. I read my manual and it says that the heat pump would work down to 30 degrees or so then switch to Aux heat which would be the aqua hot. I tried that yesterday... turned on the heat pump and it ran and was providing heat... however the aqua hot ran continuously (left it on for about 40 minutes) but no heat coming from the exchangers as it was set on heat pump. The manual indicates that the aqua hot button has to be on for aux heat to work. I assume the aqua hot would only light when it needed to provide heat??? Anyone have experience with this? I don't mind living the heat pumps on with the temp set at 50 or so... and having the aqua hot come on to provide heat when outside temps drop below 30... but having the aqua hot running constantly is not acceptable. I have drained the water tank. I assume it is ok to run the aqua hot with no potable water in the plumbing lines? Hopefully, I'll eventually get this stuff figured out... Thanks

I used this company for my captain's chairs. They have a multitude of colors. https://www.leathermagic.com/

Do you mean the "window sticker" or the build sheet? I found the build sheet in my Monaco plastic binders and I requested the original window sticker and got it back in a couple hours. I did not know that the build sheet could be provided???

I don't think there is any difference in the actual towers... the young person at the T Mobile store with multiple hair colors and additional holes in the head told me that the home unit is just basically a really big antenna.... much larger than what you would have in a small cell phone.

same here with the T mobile wireless. It is easy to use and fairly cheap. I have T mobile phones so I had a good idea of the coverage in my area.

I replaced the blades a couple of months ago, but had not had a chance to actually drive in the rain. I don't remember the length I used, but will check. The arms are tight as best I can tell.... it just seems to have a lot of sloppy movement when they go across the window and then make a slapping sound on the drivers side when it gets to the end of its movement and starts back down. Is there a way to adjust how far they travel?

This is an old thread, but I thought I would start here rather than starting a new one. I had to drive back in the rain two weekends ago and the wipers worked, but really seemed to be very sloppy. The driver side made a slapping noise when at the top. The passenger side had an area that the wiper blade didn't even touch. That was not an issue for me as I was not looking through that part of the windshield, but the wife sure didn't like it. Thank goodness it was not raining hard and just had them on intermittent... otherwise the slapping sound would have driven me crazy. Is there any adjustment or something to check on these? Did these work well originally and mine are just worn or out of adjustment? Not really sure where to even start on this.

Well... I have a victory, even if it is a somewhat unsatisfying victory. I reviewed the wiring diagram and figured out the source wire coming in was a green wire. I tested the system with a known good 12v source and it worked. So I knew it was somewhere from the FRB to the water pump bay. Knowing it was a large green wire helped me source it in the FRB (no labels for which fuse is which). There was a large green wire that was bent pretty badly going into its plug, so I straighten it a little. I also replaced the fuse, which was not blown, but it look pretty old. Anyway, I then checked the voltage at the water pump bay and had 12v on the large green wire. Hooked everything back up and have a functioning water pump!!! Like I said... not a very satisfying victory, because I'm not really sure what fixed it... but it is working. Thanks everyone.

So... swapped out the old multi-switch and the pump and still have the problem. Not really surprised as this seems to be a low voltage issue coming to the multi-switch latch controller. One thing new I have noticed is when pressing any of the level monitor buttons, ie battery, propane, black tank, etc... a light flickers and the panel lights go out. I am thinking of providing a known 12 volt power source to the incoming wire on the multi-switch to see if the system then works... I think that would narrow down the source as being between the FRB 30 amp fuse and the multi-switch. If anyone has any other suggestions, I am certainly open. thanks

What year did they start with the EGR. Mine is a 2003.

Yes, the smart TV's are really nice if you have wifi. If you have an enclosure for the TVs to go into... make sure the depth or thickness of the TV you purchase will work. Some of the smart TVs are thicker. If you do hook up the surround sound, you may want to check the sub woofer to see if it is powered or has to receive power from the amp. I figured out that mine had to have an amplifier as the original system had a sub woofer amp built in.... It seems many of the current amps have a sub woofer "pre out" which means the sub has to have its own amp.