Just Jim

Thanks for all the great info. I'm thinking at this point that I'm going to check with my shop and see if he will do it. I like the idea of replacing the U-joints as well... makes no sense to take it apart and not put back new and I think the yoke nut is a one time use item??? How would I find part numbers for the U-joints? It does not look like replacing the pinion seal is a big deal (for the right person); would you say the same if also replacing the bearing? Again, seems to make sense to do it if you have it apart, as long as that does not add a bunch of hours of labor, etc. Jim

I noticed that as well Jim. I have greased the front, (and they were not bad) but have not gotten to the rear yet. Once I actually get under there and get dirty, I'll check it for play and grease it, check the vent and check the oil level. Then can make a decision on how to proceed. I do have a shop that I've used before that does good work. I wouldn't mind doing it myself, except I have a drip scheduled and not sure I'll have time to do and/or if the weather will continue to cooperate. Thanks for the insight everyone.

Pictures of the Diff for your viewing pleasure. There is some moisture around the vent tube, but did not try to check it or anything else. Just took some quick pictures. I found in my literature that the diff and axle are Dana with a model on the differential of 21060S

No Jet, that was great info. Thanks for taking the time to post it. I've also seen people discuss some type of "stop leak" if everything else checks out. I've used that before on an old car. Not sure about on something like this.

I did not take a picture at that time. Did not have my phone with me. It appeared to be leaking around where the drive shaft connected. I'll get pictures and take a better look.

One thing I did find when I was under the coach today is a leak at the differential. I was just doing a quick look around and noticed it. Anyone have any idea how big a job it is to replace a seal? I'll check the fluid level before I move the coach again but curious if this is a "big" repair or not. 90 weight oil from what I recall off the top of my head?

Thanks guys, I got it open and found the transmission dipstick. I never would have used that much force on that hatch without some reassurance from you all!!! d*** thing took three wood chisels hammered around the edges for it to finally open. Not sure why they even put latches on there. LOL Hopefully, next week I can get the hydraulic fluid and transmission fluid changed out. Sure wears on a old fat man to climb under and around that thing but I enjoy doing it.

So, I've tried to open this hatch, but it is not budging. Other than popping the little latch up, anything else other than brute force needed?

Just a curious question... I had a sticker on the battery door of my previous coach that indicated that lots of precaution needed to be taken before welding on the frame in order to prevent damage to the transmission electronics. Is that something that still applies? It seems like the current would mostly flow from the ground to the weld site??? I suppose some current could go elsewhere, but seems pretty unlikely. Again, not planning on doing any welding, but just curious.

Thanks Jet, I'll try and get those hatches open tomorrow. I've tried to open them in the past just out of curiosity, so didn't force them. They really seem to be stuck or I'm not releasing them properly. Going to look from inside the engine bay and see if I can figure out how they work, but if anyone has any info on opening them I would greatly appreciate it. I do have a pump that I was going to use. I hope I can feed it out the back as I don't want to string 10 gallons of fluid through the coach. I can't imagine that is going to go without at least a little spill.

So, the weather was nice today, so I got started on my maintenance and got about 25% of it done. As I was making my plan for tomorrow, I did a quick look at the transmission. The two round filters and the drain plug are pretty obvious, however how do you put the fluid back in???? I don't see a dipstick or a filler neck anywhere. I am hoping that this is not one that you have to pump the fluid into... Anyone with knowledge of the Cummins 500 ISM and Allison 4000 trans let me know how this is done please. Thanks everyone.

Mine has done this as well from time to time. Mine corrects when I start it up and move it. I'll be watching for responses.

So... this may be straying off topic a little, but still is in regard to doing maintenance. I had seen some posts regarding building wood ramps in order to have more area under the coach. If I go that route, should I build ramps that support the tag axle? I also assume I would need to have the ramp under both of the duel rear tires? That is going to be a rather large heavy, wooden structure!!! So, if the answer to both of those is yes... then perhaps putting a metal or wood post in between the frame where the air bags are located might be an option? I've also seen some info on jacking up the rear and putting bracing under the area where the trailer hitch is located, but not on the hitch itself. Thoughts? Last question... I have used the air bags and the hydraulic level system to raise the coach in order to see if braces in the frame could be accomplished and trying to measure the distance that a brace would need to be. I started the coach and the ABS light is on... and when I push the brake pedal the Tag ABS light comes on then goes out when I release the brake. I have not driven it. I'm just curious if raising the coach up could cause some harm to the ABS or does it just need to be driven? Thanks as always.

Thanks Benjamin... this is a new to me 20 year old coach with very little knowledge of prior service work. I'm basically wanting to establish a baseline for the maintenance going forward. I will test the coolant, but that is one of the filters I think gets overlooked fairly often... kind of like the air brakes filter.

Yes, I have a air driven fluid pump that I use on some of my other vehicles. I have not found much online info... is there any concern for air in the lines, etc. Just drain the tank and remove/replace the filter?

No such luck on the filter being higher than the reservoir... it is significantly lower. So, seems like I'm changing the hydraulic fluid as well as the filter? I've never done that before. I guess I'll do a search of the YouTube to see if I can find any tutorials.

Thanks Ivan, I found the oil filter, but did not look much further than to just take a quick picture of the part number so I could order one. So, the coolant filter is accessible from underneath and I assume the coolant cut off is as well.

Was a really nice day today so I got out and did a little more looking and inspection of my coach. I found a filter that indicates its a hydraulic filter with part number P550388. I have never replaced a hydraulic filter. Anyone have some basic instructions or things to look out for? Second question... since I only had the coach raised with the leveling jacks and no supports I did not spend more than a minute under there but could not locate the air dryer. Anyone know where that is located on a 03 Executive? 3rd question, I also have not located the coolant filter... I assume it is somewhere on the engine? Which leads to the final question (at least for now), the coach has some access panels inside the coach on the floor of the closet. They have what looks like a push button and a ring like handle. I've gotten the button pushed, but have not gotten them to open. Is there a "trick" to it like twisting or turning the ring or are they just stuck because they have not been opened in forever? If I could get them open I think I could find the coolant filter. Thanks in advance for any help. Jim

Nice looking building Jim. That is about what I'm wanting too. With the walls that tall I figure I can add "lean to" sides for additional space. Thanks for sharing.

Wow... some really nice shops/garages on this forum. Much envy from one that still has to park (and work on it outdoors). I do appreciate the many great suggestions and ideas. Several things I had not considered and will certainly add to my eventual building. However, my biggest hurdle is finding the land to build on... If it is decent at all (defined as does not require a mountain goat to be tied on it to keep it from falling down the hill) and priced reasonably, then it is sold in less than 24 hours. I had that happen last week... listed in the afternoon... I went and walked it the next day and before I could make a full priced offer... was sold!!! I will keep looking... but keep the suggestions and ideas coming. One thought I've had is that some of the land I've seen is 1500 feet or more away from the municipal water lines... Some people have wells, but after exploring that a little, the drillers are at least 6 months behind. Anyone have any thoughts on rain catchment systems out there? We get lots of rain in my area... and I like the idea of "free" water. LOL.

Hey Tom... looking at that chart it looks like it says change the fluid every 48 months, but the filter every 36 months. Unless you are reusing the fluid when you change the filters that seems pretty illogical. Even then you have to change the fluid after just 12 more months. Not sure why they would even have a fluid change recommendation with a different time schedule for the filters??? What am I missing here?

Following this thread now that I'm thinking of building a shop/RV garage. My research has suggested that 30 feet wide is less costly. Going to go with 16 foot sides in order to add a second story to part of it for storage. Also, hoping to have a 14 foot door front and back so that I can just pull straight through. Love the many ideas I've found in this thread. Also, it appears that the Knoxville, TN area is a hub for several of us... I'm not retired yet, but more than willing to help out any of you guys that have a project that needs another set of hands.

Thanks Richard, There are a couple I can't find on Amazon... so will have to shop around for them at least. That is what made me curious what everyone else does.

Hi, I'm getting ready to do annual maintenance on the engine, genset and aqua hot. I'm just curious where you buy the filters/fluids from? Is there one place that has decent prices and shipping or do you buy at a local parts store?

Thanks for the info. I would prefer to have 2 higher wattage panels rather than 4 lower wattage panels. Do you think you could have used 2 350 watt panels to get your 700 watts instead of the four panels?