Just Jim

As far as what is visible the relay is after the multi switch and mounted just below it. Since the switch is only $40 or so, I think I'll order one and replace it. If it is not the problem, not bad to have a spare. I'm also going to order a new pump as I don't mind having one of those on hand. I will update the board once I get it replaced; hopefully it fixes it but I may be back seeking more advice/info. Made it through the weekend and safely back home. Thanks for everyone's help!!!

Actually Richard, I had hooked my jumper directly to the pump, but since I had wired in a switch it was easy enough to switch my jumper to the 12v power terminal on the multi-switch to test it and nothing. The interior switches still don't work and the pump does not come on. So, that tells me I need a new multi-switch? Once I get home I can test to see if there is output on the "load" terminal and down to the relay, etc. Anyone know if those Intellitec switches are still available?

Ok... thanks everyone. The jumper wire at least has us back with running water. Will sort out the low voltage once we get back home. If anyone has any suggestions in the meantime please let me know . Thanks again. I'm thinking that once I retire next year I may go back to school to become an electrical engineer... I think you need it to own one of these rigs!!! LOL.

this diagram shows 3 fuses? My wiring diagram says I have a 30amp fuse in the FRB, which I have not been able to identify as I have no diagram for the fuses. However, I assumed the fuse was good since I have power at the multi switch. I like the idea of just running a jumper wire. Going to make a run to the auto parts store to get some wire. Thanks for the idea.

I have tested the 12v incoming wire, disconnected from the switch controller. it has 8 to 10 volts, which I assume is not enough to make the pump work as I've tried wiring directly to the pump from that source. I don't think it is the switch but not sure... it seems to be a low voltage issue coming into the switch, which again has me baffled. I have not tried testing the load terminal, but will try that next. However, it seems if I don't have 12v at the 1st one, then the 1st one is the source of the problem?

yes...that is what mine looks like. I took the wire off the 12v terminal and that is what is testing with intermittent voltage, so I assume I'm bypassing the switch. I took the pump out thinking it might have failed, but tested it with the 12 volt at the battery and it runs fine.

yes, everything else seems normal. used various grounds in addition to the box ground. All consistent with less than 12 volts most of the time

woke up this morning and no water. Have checked the power to the multi switch in the water pump bay and getting intermittent voltage between 12 and 8 volts. This is the power going to the switch with the wire disconnected from the multi switch. Baffled by the intermittent voltage. I would think you get 12 volts coming in or none, so don't think its the fuse? Any suggestions? We are in a campground so can use the bathhouse but difficult to wash dishes, etc. Just for background... the coach has the multi switch controller so you can turn the water pump on from many locations. However, this is a problem with the power going to the switch, so I don't think the multi switch is the problem, but I'm certainly open to any help. Thanks.

That is interesting Ronnie, that they work with both, shifting into reverse and as dock lights. Might explain why my side dock lights work, but the rears don't. My coach is missing the diagram for the fuses in the FRB, so I can't tell which is the back up lights. Mine has three identical looking blocks with lots of 15 amp fuses.

upon further review... I got the wires off and tested the voltage and had zero. Figured out how to get the light out and put 12v to it from the battery and it worked. Tried the other one and it did not, so I removed it too and noticed that one of the wires had been caught in the tightened bolt and had a bare spot. The first time I tested while still installed and again, it did not work. Once I took it out and provided power it worked. So... I assume it must have shorted to ground? blew a fuse? Now, the question is where is that fuse? Does it still make sense that the side docking lights work and the rear lights would have a fuse separate from them? The rear lights seem to be a much higher wattage as when I got them working they really put off a lot of heat. I'm done for the night, but would love to have some ideas for how to proceed tomorrow. It really would have been nice if there was a schematic for these and seems strange that I don't have it. If anyone else could check their wiring manual, perhaps that page is missing in mine. Thanks again for any insight.

The brake/turn signal lenses have back up lights in them, but they do not come on when shifted to reverse. The side docking lights work, but the two lower bumper lights in the back do not. I checked my wiring diagram book and it does not show the docking lights, so I can't tell if the rear lights are wired to the side lights. It appears that Ktloah has something similar as my set up so I'm going under the assumption they are all wired together as that would make sense. How do you remove those rear lights? They are inside of a fiberglass recessed area and I don't see any bolts, etc. There is a wire going into the top from inside the engine bay that I may could disconnect to check for voltage, but to remove the entire light is not an obvious solution. Do you remember what light you used as a replacement? Thanks for the help everyone!!!

The docking lights on the sides come on when I hit the switch, but not the two on the back bumper. I looked at the wiring diagram for the tail lights, etc and I don't see those indicated in the wiring. I'll find the page that shows the docking lights and see if those are on that circuit.

I was backing into a camp site a month ago and could not see very well at all... was the first time doing it in the dark. So, leaving Friday for another trip and went out to check to see if the back up lights were working or if one was burned out. No back up lights at all with engine running, in reverse and air brake off. Brake and turn signals work. Sort of a related question, the coach has two larger what look to be fog/driving lights on the lower back bumper... would these be additional back up lights and should they come on when put into reverse or is there a switch I have not found? I attached a picture of the back. Suggestions on where to start looking for a source? How should I test for power to the lights, etc.....not really comfortable with the engine running, in reverse and leaving the parking brake on and then getting behind the coach. LOL.

Thanks Scotty and the other 3 guys as well. I appreciate your work on this site.

no experience with the see vision system, but I've seen it listed in the brochures. I think it allows you to see around the outside of the RV while parked. The flip down entertainment center should be on the curb side as either a panel on the outside that opens to access the TV or the TV is tucked inside one of the basement storage locations. Check to make sure you have a solar panel on the roof. There should be a solar indicator panel that shows the battery state of charge and the amps coming from the solar panel. Its in the bedroom right above the washer/dryer on my coach. It is not a large panel, maybe 3 x 4 inches. Congrats on your purchase. Wishing you lots of happy miles. Jim

Randy, In a word... you have skills. I had an idea it was transfer switch related, but I'm a plug and play kind of guy. Congrats on getting it sorted out.

by "kill power to the coach" do you mean engaging the battery disconnects? I don't know for sure, but I would think that would disconnect the solar as well. Flipping the "salesman" switch up in the front would leave the solar connected.

Have you tried checking at the house batteries to see if current is actually going to them while plugged in? "inverting" is converting 12 v to 110 v, so that should not be displayed while plugged in as that is an indication you are just running on battery. Might check the transfer switch. Generally the genset is primary even when plugged in to shore power, so the batteries will not charge from shore while the genset is running.... but should switch (transfer) when the genset is shut down. Its possible that 20 amp circuit is not enough to charge the batteries, but I've never had that problem. Someone here will be able to help more.

The picture above is what my fuel filter/water separator looked like. It had an electric pump that when you pushed the button for 'air' it would prime the air out of the line... for water it would drain it from the bottom of the filter. It was manufactured by Wynn.

Congrats!!! I purchased mine in April of this year and have spent a fair amount of time upgrading and learning about it. I replaced all the interior puck lights with LEDs..... all 52 of them!!! I think those halogen bulbs could have been an alternate heat source. LOL. I replaced the slide toppers, the battery isolator, charger, etc with the ACR relay, replaced the remote door locks and outside keypad, under cabinet kick lights, upgraded the surround sound/TV... and I'm sure I'm forgetting many things. I am missing the lower part of my rear ladder... not sure if yours is the same, but I'd love to find one. I still have several things to do and was hoping to work on them with the cooler weather coming in, but have been slowed by a little heart attack.... two stents and two more to go and hopefully I'll be better than new. I knew I was slowing down and not tolerating the heat very well... just thought I'm getting old... come to find out the plumbing was clogged, so I'm hoping I'm not really as old as I felt. HaHa. I feel much better with the two they put in already, but have been taking it easy since I still have 80% blockage in another vessel. Congrats again and wishing you happy travels!!! Jim

On my 95 it was on the right side as you look at the engine. It was near the fuel lines/filters. A 2x2 inch box with a couple of buttons and lights. Yours may be missing as it was not difficult to find.

you mean you don't routinely look through her purse? Oh my... they certainly keep life interesting.

Ben, I think the wheels have about come off this thread. I've gotten most of the info I was originally seeking. In my particular case, it is a little of both. I park my RV in my driveway at home and have 50 amp service for it. However, no building for it to be enclosed in... hopefully soon to have that. So, again, for me it is storage and usage during the winter months.... and therefore not wanting to "winterize" it with solution in the water pipes. The winters here are not brutal... we have several nights when it will get below 32, but during the day the temps may be 45 or 50... so not really much chance of a hard freeze. So, my questions were mainly for the periods when it gets down to 10 at night and maybe up to 32 for a high. I'm planning on getting the temp sensors to put inside the basement and the coach as well that I can check on my phone. I'll also watch the weather closely and turn on more heat either electric or diesel as is needed. I have run at least one of the AC units all summer to keep the interior from getting above 80 so I don't think keeping the heat on is going to bankrupt me. I do appreciate all the help on this... hopefully it has been beneficial to others as well. Jim

photos of the knob I found. It just has a bare copper wire going over to the next compartment. I can't see where it goes. Also, found a small box with a fan that looks like it may be part of the aqua hot heating as it has copper tubing running into it. Have not found anything that looks like an electric heater. It should be in or near the water tanks and manabloc, correct? I like the idea of putting temperature sensors in the coach that sync up with my phone so I can monitor the temps.

Thanks so very much all you guys! I checked and found a knob in the water pump bay that says max 50 degrees. So that will provide heat to the entire basement area or does it just warm the holding tanks or something else? I'll look for some bolts on the ceiling panel. So, not winterizing will pretty much require a fairly high level of heat to be left inside and more than likely some type of additional heat in the basement?