Just Jim

Thanks Jim. However, I'm not wiring in the front switch at the moment. I just want to get the AL ACR installed and then I'll take the day to run wires to the front dash. I am asking about the positive and the negative to connect to the ACR in the back without the front switch. Just pick up any 12v positive and a ground to the chassis?

Sorry to have so many stupid questions...if you can't tell I'm just a little gun shy on wiring this up. Where did you get the power and ground for the ML ACR? Can I use any of the wires already in the run box or do I have to source it from somewhere else? Not nearly as important now, but will be in the future. I know to separate the generator from the chassis engine... I use the 2nd engine wire from the ML ACR... but what does it connect to?

Still working through this install and I think I have a few things figured out from various searches on here. The lead in wires from the chassis, alternator and house are all really short and just make it into the box. So, I'm going to add a bus bar or two to connect those wires then make jumpers to go to the ACR and another jumper from the house batteries down to the bottom row of wires. I've seen recommendations for fuses between the wires and the ACR....any recommendation what type and size?

Hey Van, I am investigating the installation of the ML ACR and I want to just get it installed and tested. Then later I will run the wires to install the switch on the dash. If all I want is just the ML ACR install with no switch I only hook up the black and red wires to neg and positive respectively? The other wires only go to the switch? Someone mentioned that you had a "white paper" on this, but I did not see anything like that in the files, etc. Perhaps it is called something else? Thanks in advance. Jim Edit: Added pictures of my existing. The top wire going to the isolator is from the chassis battery. I assume the bottom is from the house batteries. The middle one is the alternator? I've read that I need to attach one large wire to the lower copper bar to feed the house but which one? The smaller wires on the big solenoid go where? The wires on the battery maintainer (green box) go where? Thanks in advance for any help.

It is a Racor 300200 filter. I have not ordered from them in a while, but this is who had them in stock. M&D Distributors 7902 FM 1960 Bypass Rd. W. Humble, TX 77338 Email: ecominfo@mddistributors.com Toll Free: (800) 658-9333

I found a source for those pre-filters down in Texas. Let me know if you need them and I'll figure out their name. However, you can just wash them out and reinstall if they are not to bad. That is what I've done the last few times. I got a bad case of algae and had to replace that one, but I stay on top of that now and have not had any issues just reusing the same one each time. I obviously replace the second filter every time.

thanks for the help guys. switched it several times and the 3rd time I tried to start it, she went. I am just glad I learned this lessen in my driveway. I think I'm leaving the tag axle down from now on. There is not that much slope on my drive, but apparently enough with the tag up to squash that filter.

It is the primary filter.... its right behind the mud flap. Didn't leak bad but enough for it to suck air. I've the new one on.... cross your fingers that it will prime and start.

My old 95 Dynasty has that racor water/air primer... it appears this one has had it removed. Any idea if there is a manuel primer on the engine somewhere? Perhaps they have installed the FASS system? I have no idea what that even looks like to know if I have it or not... Fun, Fun, Fun... nothing like getting up to speed on a new coach

I have a new to me 2003 Executive with the ISM 500. I have somehow gotten a hole in the fuel filter. Searching for the filter now, but curious how to prime it after I switch them out?

I was just changing my water filters yesterday and noticed that a blue pex line bypassed the filters... perhaps I do have this on mine. I've got to dump the tanks today... getting ready for a trip to Talladega. I'm going to see if I can figure this out. Thanks for the idea!!!! Jim

I will have to check this out. Any idea if a 2003 Executive would have this. I use a sewer tap at the street and my garden hose is not long enough to reach there. Would love to be able to flush the tank really well while I'm home... instead of doing it when away.

I am trying to determine which fuse is the one I need to check for the passenger side. I have tested for 12v power at the plug under the seat... no power on the passenger side and 12v on the drivers side. There are 3 blocks of fuses in the FRB, the one that looks like the one in the diagram has no effect on either seat. I removed the fuse and even disconnected the wire plug going to the fuse block and still had power on the driver side. Any suggestions of which fuse is the one I'm looking for? The fuse block on the right is the one I've checked.

I will double check the wire coming from the floor. I did not trace it all the way. any idea where a auto resetting circuit breaker might hide?

new to me 2003 Monaco Executive. The passenger side seat would not work, so I checked the power coming to the seat and it reads zero. I checked the drivers side and it has 12 volts. I tried to check the fuses but that is where I got confused. The diagram shows the PS seat is 15 amp fuse at position 7. One problem is that there is 3 banks of fuses all with a position 7. So, looking at the diagram it shows a 7.5, 5, 15 and a 15 and positions 5, 6, 7 and 8. I checked those two 15a fuses... both good. Then I left the fuses out and still had power to the driver side. Then I unplugged the wiring harness from position 5-8 and still had power to the driver seat. So... I have the wrong bank of fuses? It should not have power if you pull the fuse, correct? I also made a jumper wire from the driver to the passenger side and the seat works fine, so it is a problem with getting power to the chair. Any ideas of what to try next? Another location for fuses? Thanks in advance. Jim

It is amazing how those creatures can worm their way into your heart. Good thoughts and prayers sent your way.

that pricing seems to be in line with what I'm seeing. It usually depends on the number of slides and the length. 2 slides are priced much less than 3 or 4 and longer coaches seem to be a little less. The 500 hp Cummins is a great engine and I would not bat an eye at 135k miles. The ones you want to avoid are the 20 year old engines with 30k miles. For sure check the Aqua Hot, that can be a money pit. Also, the usual stuff.... check for rust, service records, etc. Get an oil analysis if it hasn't been serviced recently.

Thanks Charlie. It seems I've heard mostly good stuff regarding the Windsor. I've been really surprised at how few people have zero service records for them... which I put a high value on. Diesel engines can run for a very long time if maintained, but such a huge expense if you need to replace. I'm perfectly ok with cosmetic and other equipment repairs... that is just to be expected, but swapping out the engine and/or transmission is something I'm going to try to avoid. LOL.

That is a tough one. I've got a 95 Dynasty so I can relate. I certainly hope mine is worth more than that though. You have to figure that even the trailer or 5th wheel are going to require some work in addition to hooking up a vehicle to tow them, etc. Maybe finding her a sound mechanic and just planning on spending some money on it is better than spending money on something else that could have smaller but just as many issues. RVs have always been a money pit, but hopefully you enjoy the camping experience enough to make it worth the cost.

Ah... good old New Market. Site of the great train wreck. I've currently have 4 vehicles plus the RV. Of course I drive the oldest one of all of them... a 97 Ford PU. Its not much to look at, but it starts and runs. I'm currently looking at a couple Windsors... have you had good luck with yours? Any issues I should look at? I really would not even think of moving up from my 95 Dynasty if it had a slide out in it. Slides just make such a huge difference inside, especially if you plan on staying in it for any length of time.

You sound a lot like me Jim... I'm in East TN as well. Maybe there is something in the water. LOL

If the pricing is fair a trade in can save you a considerable amount of sales tax, other than the convenience of not having to list it yourself... that is about the only advantage to doing a trade.

CW cannot pay you full price for it and then turn around and sell it for more. Just makes sense but I always see that when I trade cars... they will offer you less than wholesale for your trade and ask retail for their vehicle... I usually just turn it around on them and offer them the same deal in reverse and they tell me I'm crazy. I always get a laugh out of that because I'll reply... that is just exactly what you offered me... so who is the crazy one? HaHa I don't mind a dealer making a slice or two of bread off me, but just walk out when they want the entire loaf.

Thanks Tom, Great info. Yes, it is really sad that a coach as nice as this is almost useless... but Monaco was on the way out at that point and I'm sure suppliers and creditors made decisions difficult regarding the systems that got installed.

Wiring has always been an issue on these things, but that is just crazy. No fire or anything from the lightening? Just a big enough surge to fry it? I want to upgrade to a little newer coach sometime... was thinking the 06 or therebouts... Seems like that is the year that they started with the multiplex wiring for the Dynasty. I may want to rethink that now. Good old standard wiring weights a little more, but much easier to replace/repair. Sorry to hear of your troubles. Hope it worked out for you at least financially.