Just Jim

Should be on the front passenger side seat armrest group of switches.

Thanks Myron, that one is about 4 inches to long. There is an indentation on the back of my coach for the light to fit into... have not found one yet that will fit.

I have looked on Amazon and can't find one that is the correct size. Most are to long. I may just keep what I have. It works.

The lens says SAE U-93, but I can't find anything that looks like it. Anyone have a good source for a replacement? I wired up the front dash switch for the ML ACR and when finished noticed the tail lights on the passenger side did not work. Trial and error and figured out that a ground was faulty. I used spare wires that had previously been used for a brake controller, so I suspect somewhere there is an issue that I didn't have time to run down. I just supplied another good ground and the lights all work again. However, I found during testing that most of the connections are in really bad shape and the bulb sockets are loose, etc. So... long story short... I'm replacing the brake light housing with new LEDs. I am hoping they are an easy change out, but I'm not holding my breath. Anyway, I think I should replace the center brake light as well just for aesthetics.

Grampy... I had that exact same system and replaced the isolation box, boost solenoid and maintainer with the Blue Sea ML ACR. Before replacing old tech parts you might want to consider that option. Its not a bad upgrade and there are lots of threads on here of how to complete. I just finished running the switch up to the dash this weekend and can save you a bunch of time on that if you need it. Jim

Continuing to have issues. I ran a wire from the orange wire in the rear to the orange wire on the boost switch and have no continuity. I tried it with the ignition off and on. Shouldn't that wire have continuity either way? Still no luck in finding the spare wires in the back. I did do a search for the wiring diagram for the brake controller and one of the wires has to tie directly to the 7 way trailer plug... but have not found that connection either. I'm going to crawl back under the rear and give it another try at finding the spare wires. I have an RF sounder, but it does not seem to work or I'm not working it correctly. I think it gets to much interference from all the wires in close proximity. I may see if I can find a different type of sounder. Edit... on my coach the wire going to the big solenoid is orange and the schematic shows the orange wire running from the back up to the front boost switch. I was hoping of using this as one of the wires that I need to wire in the BS remote switch up front... but again there is no continuity on that orange wire in the rear and the orange wire on the front boost switch. So, there must be a break in that line somewhere?

Making baby steps of progress. I have found spare wires in the front. Two red, two black and one smaller green. The prior owner had wired in a brake controller and has used two of the wires... I was looking in the FRB and noticed a piece of label laying in the bottom... I picked it up and it is torn... but what is left spells PARE. One of the wires that the prior owner used also has a piece of the same color tape and it dawned on me... SPARE. So, I have spare wires. Yee Haw. I have searched high and low in the back and cannot find the other end. So, any suggestions on where they might have hidden those spare wires in the back? Also, anyone have any knowledge of how you wire up a brake controller? Again, the prior owner tied into two of the spares... I assume those wires would be needed in the back to connect to a trailer in order for the controller to work... I checked the original trailer plug... nothing new added to it. Any suggestions of where a controller would need to be wired up in the back? I think I'm close. I only need one wire to connect the switch for the Blue Sea switch.

So, I poked my head under the coach this afternoon. I found a big bundle of zip tied wires in front of the rear axle on the passenger side and thought I'd found the spares. All of them went to air system components... Couldn't find any other bundle of wires there. Behind the front axle I found what I think is conduit. Its about an inch diameter with a red cap? I could not locate the other end of a conduit in the back, but the holes are all sprayed with some kind of insulating foam, so the conduit might be covered over by that. I also don't see any obvious bundle of wire in the front axle area either. I'll look around the generator and under the dash. I'm at least encouraged to find what I think is the conduit. Pulling wires through it should be pretty easy... at least that is what I'm telling myself. Jim

I wondered about isolating the genset and the chassis engine, but I thought those instructions were more for marine applications that have two or more engines that propel the boat. Is there a benefit to isolating the chassis and genset? Frank had said that same thing Ivan, I'm going to check and see if they are there, before running new wires. If they are there... I've got 7 50ft rolls of wire that I'm not going to need. LOL. I think he also said that there is a conduit? I've also got the FASS install to do and may need some additional fuel lines run. The next nice day that I have free to devote, I'm going to jack up the coach again and do the air dryer and check for the spare wires or run the new ones. Thanks for the great help as usual!!!

This a project that I'm planning on doing soon. I have the switch wired up in the back and have waited for better weather to run wires from the front to the back. The instructions below for cross connect/isolate battery banks indicate the red wire from the ML ACR harness goes to position 2 on the included switch. The yellow goes to position 7 for the LEDs. Power from the house side goes to position 8 and position 1 and 3 go to ground. Does that look correct??? It appears I only need one wire from the back run up to the front (for Yellow LED) as there is an existing wire that I can use for the remote red. Everything else can be sourced from the front? I'm going to run several wires from the back up to the front for any future projects, so if you think the power should be sourced from the rear run box would be easy enough? I would appreciate another set of eyes on this. Thanks in advance. Jim

Frank, I've looked at the wiring diagrams and don't see any mention of spare wires or extra conduit? I've purchased wire and was just fixing to run some extras, so your comment is very timely. I've looked but have not found any. I have two rear run boxes; one on each side. There is so much wiring that it could be right in front of me. Any idea what it would look like and a more specific place to check? I've looked under the dash and don't see any spare wire. Again, any specific location to look and what to look for? Jim

That is long enough for it to get warm. Check the coolant and oil level. Might want to make sure the air filter is not restricted as well.

It was my understanding that the BB would join the two battery banks together momentarily. Most of the coaches I've seen had to have a trickle charger to charge the chassis battery as shore power only charged the house batteries. I've heard of people putting a tooth pick or some other type of wedge into the boost switch to keep it connected while parked to combine the battery banks and charge them both, but I never tried that. I too have replaced with the ML-ACR. No issues with battery charge or boosting anymore... Knock on wood!!!

I don't think so. Mine is several years older, but nothing like you describe. I'm not long away from needing to replace mine... thinking maybe a straight pipe. LOL

I don't think that a 98 Dynasty has a workhorse chassis. I think it is a Roadmaster chassis. My 95 Dynasty was a Roadmaster.

I could not find mine either, but it was located behind the lines coming out of the top of the tank on the passenger side. use a mirror or your phone to peek over those lines and more than likely it is right there.

I had this happen on my 95 dynasty. Check the fuel shut off solenoid. They have a history of coming loose from the engine. On mine it was on the passenger side under the engine access/bed.

thanks Ivan, Yes, I do have solar. The eyelet is so small that it did not make sense that it went to one of the battery posts. So, just tape it to the side of a battery like the other one?

So... was checking the batteries to make sure they had enough water and noticed this loose wire hanging in the back. It also has a wire attached to one of the batteries... see the pics. Any idea where that loose wire should be attached? I don't see any connection point on the back side of them. The wire has two small wires inside the protective plastic wrap.

Very jealous of that display, Scotty. I'm going to have to prioritize my future projects once I get a few of the ones I've already started completed!!! I would love to see how you have it mounted.

You are correct. I just did the maintenance on mine and I'm at $1800 and counting just for fluids and filters. I just keep thinking of all the money I saved by doing it myself. LOL.

I occasionally have trouble starting the genset. It has acted like the batteries were weak when I knew they were not... now I know why. I love this group!!! However, now I have another project to work on. LOL. IF, you had a battery for just the genset, will all the switches inside still work to start it? It seems it would be more complicated than just wiring in a battery???

A little more info would be good. When you press the start button, you hear the fuel pump come on? Every time or just sporadically? Is the outside temp changing significantly from when it starts to when it will not? Colder temps will require longer pre heat times. You obviously have plenty of fuel in the tank as it will not run when the fuel level is low. It cranks every time but does not start? The oil and coolant levels are where they should be? Lets get some of the basic, easy things eliminated first. Please be a little more specific with what is happening.

I went through this process last summer and found the company that made the original paint. I can't recall their name at the moment, but I think I could do some searches here and find it. I do remember it was expensive and they said that it likely would not match the older paint. I went the route of taking a panel and getting it scanned, but that was not all that great either. My particular coach seems to have about 3 different shades of gold that all look different depending upon the angle and amount of light. Needless to say it was a nightmare to try and match. I settled for fixing some of the worse spots and I plan on just painting the entire thing once I retire and have the time to do it. One thing I will note... my original intent was to just sand off the clear coat and spray that in the areas that were peeling. However, I quickly found that the paint is very thin and you are down to primer in no time at all. If you sand... use 2500 or 3000 grit and go easy. Again, in my case I decided it was not worth it to spend the time. I found the paint codes on a paper in the owners box. Let me know if you still need the original paint supplier and I'll do some looking.

So... today I checked the display again with the coach having been on shore power overnight and it said 3.2 amps. When I checked the voltage on the chassis and house they were at 14.5. So the display is a reading of the amps that are going out, not what the panels on the roof are actually generating. Correct? I am thinking I'll cut the power to the coach tomorrow morning when I wake up so the batteries can be discharged some and then see how the solar does as far as maintaining the batteries.