DavidL

Gas / Kerosene / parts cleaner / dawn That's really not a lot of junk...think about how many gallons of fuel amounted to that amount of gunk.

Depending on which specific "warning light", the engine controller may have recorded the event. You would get a scan tool compatible with your vehicle's communication system. If this is a newer diesel, then probably J1939 protocol is used. J1708 is typically used on older than 2002 ish. No one is going to give you good insight into what the light came on for without knowing the Diagnostic Trouble Code that may have been set. Any decent truck repair facility can pull the codes. The diagnostic connector will most certainly be located near the steering column. Many DPs also have an additional in the engine bay.

Not sure how yours is fit, but in the time it took to type the question I could have mine out. Like four screws from the front (impact screw gun makes that fast) and pull the unit out. Once out the line is easily accessible. Good time to clean the unit inside and out and the cabinet.

From my readings on irv2 forum, the ISX issues may be temp or acid related and not necessarily to weak valve springs. And it could be a couple of the many thousands of ISX owners that have had an exceptional problem ($30K repairs) that gets the attention of others that "blows the issue out of proportion". None of the occurrences have had definitive root cause identified. So I would call it a forum click bait topic only at this point.

If you are "sure" you have crap in the tank, then drop the tank and clean it out. If you are assuming you have stuff in the tank, a good inline filter will strain it out. Just keep the filter clean. Keep one with you and the necessary tools to change while on the road. It's not typical that the filter gets clogged instantly. Many vehicles monitor the filter and will give you warning before it clogs to affect performance. But BioDiesel and crap in the tank are two different subjects.

Is the red hollow all the way through? If so, then you can put a bolt in there. Put the flat had towards the rails so it doesn't interfere. Maybe a carriage head bolt would be most flush to the backside. Put a washer on the Yellow side and a double nut or a nylock nut. Double so you can tighten one nut to each other without squashing the joint so it still pivots. If not hollow, then I assume that there was a washer and the red was peened over to secure the washer (that got loose). You could also look at drilling it hollow to use the bolt method.

Good to hear the system is working again. For future purposes and for readers, never use "Stop Leak". It gums up the system. If there is a leak, one has to find it, fix it, vac and recharge. There are no short cuts other than different tools and fluids (UV dye) to help find the leak.

It is a tracking antenna. It uses semiconducters to change the angle that is being received. It is not a mechanical tracking mechanism. The newest KVH antenna uses same technology (something like $8K). The new style will certainly be lower profile, should react much faster to RV directional changes, and have longevity. I am betting that SpaceX will promise the quantity of customers so the new style can be produced for lower price per unit from using LSI chips instead of discrete components on the circuit board.

To isolate noises, there is something in the repair industry called "chassis microphones" Basically it's a box where several michs get plugged in, a set of headphones and a rotary switch to select which Mich you are listening to. You select the Mich that has the most of the offending noise. Then move all the Michs into that general area and repeat to further isolate. https://www.tooltopia.com/steelman-6600.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&adpos=&scid=scplpSTE6600&sc_intid=STE6600&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoaz3BRDnARIsAF1RfLcY9igrN8ooKJDqkvT24uEDeR0fc9SJ8IwxULWt4X0xe-r5kbQhtZUaAms_EALw_wcB

That hack job is from the factory? Geees. Compare that with the video of extending the control arms. That's a pro fix.

You need to get a good scan tool at a minimum. If there is an ABS code, then something is wrong. any good automotive technician with ABS background should be able to resolve it with the right scan tool. The DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) should point you right to the portion of the ABS system that is suspect. Not necessarily the component but the subsystem (component plus wiring).

I installed a Joying 10 1/2" double din chassis Android OS head unit. You can install any Android app on it (google maps, Gasbuddy, various RV apps, navigation apps, Glimpse, etc) Supports CarPlay and Android Auto. I have our automation system "app" on it as well that has control over most everything in the rig (and the sticks and bricks home). You can wifi network it to your phone hotspot or your RV WiFi network for Internet access. Plug in a large USB stick with all your music and movies. Install is similar to any aftermarket radio: Power / Ground / Accessory power / speakers / camera input / GPS antenna / FM antenna / Reverse signal etc. The large screen be be moved relative to the chassis to put in better visibility. Projection of how far the screen is from the chassis can also be adjusted. Joying also has single DIN chassis. Very flexible and capable. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=joying+radio&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

Tim503, From your other post, it seems like the mods flagged your "remove the ABS bulb" suggestion. What you might consider is to ask "how does an ABS system work and why should I care?" in a new thread, instead of making a safety related suggestion when you are unfamiliar with the topic. But for this thread, never alter the ABS system (or any other safety related system) unless you are smarter than the full time engineer system specialists that developed those systems (that doesn't leave too many folks left).

Buy a set of gauges and a vacuum pump. Harbor Freight is fine for limited use. Then see if the fittings attach to your RV fittings. If not, then you might need to get an R134 retrofit kit. You cannot refill with R12 if it is R12 but it's likely R134. If R12, then the system has to be vacuumed down for a few hours.

Agree with Ivan K...Low freon is much higher odds. You can verify that by finding the low pressure cutoff switch and seeing of it's closed or open with a multimeter. If you short the cutoff switch and the compressor clutch engages, than low freon even more likely. Don't do this for more than a few seconds or you could fry the compressor. Or, get a set of AC gauges and see if there is freon in the system. If it's low then there is a leak that has to be fixed before adding more freon. If its a really slow leak, add some freon dye into the system to aid in determining leak location. Look for dirt at fittings as the oil in the freon attracts dirt. A telltale of the leak location. If the system is empty, you will also need a vacuum pump to evacuate the system of moisture before adding back the freon to the specified qty. You can also determine if there is a moderate to large leak by stopping the pump and looking at the gauges for a few hours to determine if there is a leak. Bottom line, invest in the right tools and learn, or hire a pro.

Starlink is a very low orbit system that will significantly reduce the latency compared to traditional sat Internet services. I seem to remember it's 1/6th the distance. I think this will be the real deal for RV'rs once the satellites are populated enough to launch the service.

Yes ABS helps most all drivers stop more effectively than without ABS. Especially an RV where the driver isn't as keyed into what the wheels are doing. Most all RV drivers haven't been in an emergency stop. So haven't felt the max traction braking points. ABS makes it easy...if you need to stop NOW, mash the pedal and hold it.

If the cruise control doesn't work and the ABS system has a to be determined fault, the brake switch is where those two systems come together and it's a common problem. Try lifting Up the pedal with your toe to see if the cruise will engage. Sometimes the stop lamps will also be on, if it's a single switch. But typically the stop lights are a second switch on the same pedal. You will need to get the ABS code. The scan tool must be compatible with the ABS system that is installed. When you say 9 pin port...is this a diesel? Then the scan tool needs to support diesel CAN protocol. Typically J1939. Who is the manufacturer of the ABS system?