Pampero

rvautopart.com https://www.rvautoparts.com/Rocker-Switches-Illuminated_c_9598.html You want a two way momentary switch https://www.carlingtech.com/rocker-switches-full-size

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Bangor,+Maine+04401/Pinehurst,+NC/@37.2826853,-82.229485,6z/data=!4m29!4m28!1m20!1m1!1s0x4cae4b46101129bd:0x4d0918b0a7af7677!2m2!1d-68.7712257!2d44.8016128!3m4!1m2!1d-75.6343944!2d41.4028053!3s0x89c4deb04ce4ca57:0xc336427733976487!3m4!1m2!1d-77.4779598!2d40.0624135!3s0x89c90c25ceba47b3:0xe2832573cebc4d0c!3m4!1m2!1d-78.78437!2d38.0296317!3s0x89b37b87a83c995d:0x2c343ee0ca444336!1m5!1m1!1s0x8854b3fb88585303:0x71613f7de984c40!2m2!1d-79.4694767!2d35.1954345!3e0

I did, but that website set up is old and very hard to follow

Send me an email at willpampero@optimum.net and I will respond to you. The "good guy" is Wood Design RV.

I am going to describe my unfortunate situation with the hope that someone else doesn't have to go through it. I own my 2000 Monaco Windsor and I bought it new back then, at the moment this happen, I only had 38,000 miles on it. In 2018 I decided that I wanted to upgrade my TV cabinets so I found Gene Miller (Wood Designs RV) in Nappanee, Indiana. I got I quote from him and I just need to find the way and the time to bring my coach there to get it fix it. While this happen, I found that my coach developed a fiberglass delamination on the passenger side by the rear bedroom window and possible by the front window by the entrance door. I tried to get it fix close to me, I live in Long Island NY, but a fiberglass guy removed the awning on the rear window, inspected and decide that was too much for him. So, I talk to Gene Miller to ask him for a recommendation, and he did; Paul’s RV repairs was what he recommend. I check him out on the forums and his shop pictures and I was satisfied, but two things make me change my mind. One was his communications skills, I have been in the automobile repairs business for 40 years and I know that my job depends in communicate with my customers, return calls and answer questions. Paul may be a nice guy but, very hard to get him on the phone on through emails. When finally get him on the phone I told him that Gene Miller recommended him to me and my plan was for the two of them to do both repairs. Paul the fiberglass and Gene the wood work. He told me that he had some Amish carpenters (Gene is also Amish) and they can do the same work cheaper than Gene’s. For me was odd; for many years I sent my customers to auto body shops and I will be upset if they will try to sell mechanical work to them. I felt that Paul was not loyal to Gene, so I choose not to use him. I tried Hancook RV Services, but I didn’t get a good feeling about our conversations, even though his prices were less that Gene and Paul’s. Then I came across xxxxx close to Gene Miller’s shop (Wood Design RV), I spoke with Xxx (xxxxxx owner) and I got all the right answers, well I hate to say it but I was very deceived. I brought my coach there on March 14th. First impression? Disappointed, dirt and muddy parking lot, everything wide open even though was a Saturday in the afternoon. When I got there, I have to wait 45 minutes even though I told him exactly what time I will arrive. The place is very messy; the paint boot is “homemade” and there is sprayed paint all over the place. OSHA inspectors will have a field day with his shop. I left a deposit and I never get a copy; then the pandemic hit and he had to close the shop. I was expecting that in May they will resume work, but to my surprise by the end of April the coach was in the “homemade” paint boot. Gene offered Xxx to do the interior panels since the coach was there; Xxx agreed with Gene’s estimate that included two panels in the front and one in the rear bedroom. Because the new panels will not match, I asked Xxx to replace all the right-side panels in the bedroom. The job was delayed for lack of parts, went to the Wood Design shop, came back to them, went back to Wood Design. On June 23rd, Xxx texted me saying that the unit was finished by them, only needed to be cleaned and was back at Gene’s shop. I went to pick the coach on July 1st because they (xxxxx) will be leaving in vacation. When I got there the rear bedroom awning was not installed, they didn’t know where it was. This is the type of business this person is running; they said the coach is ready but to the naked eye you can see it is missing an awning, so you have two choices, ask the owner where is it or remember that the owner told you that the awning is inside the owner’s car trailer that is seating in your parking lot. So, I have to wait to it was installed, and while I was waiting the owner came few times around my coach and also inside of it. You wonder how he never noticed that it was not cleaned from outside or the inside. I am 700 miles away from home and I was not going to start a complaint, so I left. I my first tool boot, I noticed the Alternator light was on, I can’t start the generator because I was low in fuel so I have to get to the first service area. I started the generator after refueling and I noticed that my voltage was still low on my dash voltmeter. I spent the night there, I tried to figure what to do, and when I went to check things out, I found that the coach was really not cleaned (see pictures of the compartments) Suspecting that the battery isolator or the battery cut off relay were the culprit because water was getting into that bay, I decided to turn around, get my car and drive back home. I texted Xxx about my situation and the filth and garbage and he response was “my quality control lady out and being shorthanded; it looks like stuff was definitely overlooked” I told him that he was the “Captain of the Ship” don’t blame your employees for their poor work. He should have a final look at the coach, mine or anyone that pays the bill. On Tuesday the 7th I got a text asking me where the keys of the coach where. I told him I left them under a box of Donuts on a table by the entrance door that was left unlocked along the whole place. Very secure to leave your 100, 200 or 500 thousand dollars coach on a dirt parking lot open to everyone. He wanted to send the coach to a repair shop that “they use often”, I was reluctant of couple things. Experience and knowledge; as you all know, these charging systems are tricky, I didn’t want to pay for something I don’t need or a poor-quality part, or wrong part installed. Also, I didn’t want to pay a full list price when a warranty on the part will be useless because they will count that I will not drive 700 miles from home to have the alternator fixed under their warranty. So, I agreed for a diagnose; they said it need a new alternator and they ask me if I jumped? “Because that is what it kills those alternators” My coach, even though is 20 years old, only have 38,000 miles, the batteries are all new and I always keep it plugged in. I drove it to there without problems, so I asked them if they didn’t jump it and if they kept it plugged? In the end I provided the Alternator and they (xxxxx) installed for free. They received the alternator on Thursday July 16th but they told me that the rpm and speedometer was not working, and that is the way they got the coach. See my point about knowledge? I sent the schematics for the alternator and by the time I got there on Monday the 20th at noon, they just figure how to make it work, the battery cut of relay was also defective, which I had with me because I suspected that it could be bad. The workers (I am sorry but I can’t call them technicians) keep coming in and out of my coach, just happen that in front of the entrance door was a puddle of mud because it rained the night before. I got a brief “I am sorry for the inconvenience” from Xxx and he departed while I was hooking up my trailer and loading my car. On my first stop I checked the front awning because was making a lot of noise, that is when I realized that they installed wrong and the locks can’t be set. In a responding email he said that they used the same hole as before. How it could be holes on a new skin? The whole side was replaced. Was it? When I got home, my wife started to clean the interior and found that the floor in the rear bedroom was sinking when steeping on it. Boy I am mad know, I sent a text, no response. Today I started to take it apart with the hope of doing the repairs myself. Here is when the bad become worst. This people never removed the cabinets to replace the interior panels, they even removed the rotted and mold covered interior panels, they just put new panels on top of the bad ones. In his response to my complaints, this is what he says so you all can judge: **Sorry for the delay just got a new phone last week and nothing transferred from my old one, there is a set screw on the awning and I’m assuming we used the same set screw hole. Awning needs to be slid over and a new set screw put in. If you want to have someone send us a quote for approval for doing this work we can get it taken care of. About the floor: **Yes, I just went through the inspection notes and it does say soft floor in the bedroom. It was asked of us (after the fact) to repair / overlay the damaged paneling and that’s what we did. I was not asked to do a 120 point inspection and tell you every item that is wrong with you coach. Was I? About the panels: **Depending on the amount of damage determines if we remove any and or all of the old panels, your panels were not terribly damaged at all. About not removing the cabinets **I told you that I was not removing cabinetry in the bedroom. I was only going to remove cabinetry in the living area due to the amount of damage This is the end of that email: **Well you have heard from me… Is there anything else that I can do for you at this time? Nice response from someone that just toke a lot of money from me. So, I asked Gene about the interior panels’ situation. Please note two different persons to different approach to deal with a situation and with a customer, this is what he said. William, I’m not sure what to make of this. I have looked back through my notes and emails, and I never mentioned overlaying the panels. In fact, it didn’t even cross my mind to overlay the panels. In my notes and emails, I always listed it as replacing the panels, whether it was to you, or to Xxx or our own notes. I am 99% that I never talked to Xxx about just overlaying the panels. Like is said, it hadn’t even crossed my mind until you called today and told me what they had done. I think what Xxx means by “after the fact” is that I asked him to do the interior paneling after he had quoted you for the other work they were doing. It sounds like that is their standard practice if the panels are not damaged too bad, is to overlay them. Again, I always had in mind that they would replace them and that’s what I communicated to Xxx. I sent another email to Xxx: At any moment I was notified that the floor was soft. May said in your "Inspections notes" but you never told me. You knew that Gene Miller was going to do the interior repairs when he offered for you to do it you agreed with his estimate and how it should be done. My agreement with Gene was that he will repair the interior if you have doubts about you should have asked him or me about it. I was expecting the job to be done right and not a patch on top of rotted and mold infected wood. You do not determine how you fix your customer's vehicles with them have knowledge of it. Who gives you the right to determine to put new interior panels on top of damaged ones? You never told me anything about the cabinets don't be removed to install new interior panels. On June 6th email you stated that you are "replacing" the interior panels, in any of the emails or text I got from you does not says you are putting panels on top of old ones. You are hiding from me that the interior is contaminated with mold. You are hiring from me the type of work you did. What you did, in any state, is a definition of fraud. You gaining money doing the wrong job without my consent. Your last email you said you didn't charge me for the chassis repair once I questioned how you did the job, but you change that to install a new faucet for $198.00 plus $47.00 in parts that I didn't authorize. If you replaced the whole side skin how you used the same holes for the front awning? What else you did wrong? And this is hungry response: Awning: The awning holes are in the rail. NOT THE SIDEWALL!!! SINCE YOU SEEM TO BE AN RV SPECIALIST, BRING THE COACH BACK AND ILL CHANGE THE PANELS YOUR WAY!!!! HOWEVER I AM NOT REMOVING THE BEDROOM CABINETS LIKE I TOLD YO BEFORE!!! IM NOT HIDING ANYTHING! AND ILL REINSTALL THE BROKEN / LEAKING FAUCET IF YOU DON’T WANT THE NEW ONE. Let me know when you will be here. Well, the history does not end here; I went back to Nappanee, and I had the bedroom repaired by Gene at Wood Designs RV, what a pleasure to deal with honest people in a well and organized shop. All cabinets were removed, all foam was replaced along with all wood pieces inserted as a support, the rusted frame was cleaned and sprayed with rust converter, new paneling installed and the job is perfect. It seems that is an unwriting rule that we can’t post the name of the culprits here, so if someone ask me, I will inform them privately. I completed a form complaint with the Attorney General office of the Estate of Indiana; I hope he will follow through and bear in mind that a bad apple can ruins business for the whole industry of RV that is based in that area.

Can you post a picture?

Interested thread; Norcold and Furion also makes compressor refrigerators. I have a 4 door refrigerator and I don't remember the model #, I will be interested on a 12 volt system instead of a house refrigerator.

Just for the looks, I will use the Hadley, I will trust more the brass body than the metal body, but the automann has more options on the bracket setup. I still prefer brass

I worked as an auto technician for 40 years and that is a common problem. Oil sticks to the radiator and holds the dirt. Usually in RV the set up is the same as in cars, The AC evaporator is on front of the radiator. I still use this product. Sprayed it throughout the ac condenser and radiator, let it socked an use a water hose. I would not recommend a pressure washer, 2000 lb plus can damage the aluminum radiators. Do it couple of times, even your dash AC performance will improve

Well, Yes I did talk to the shop twice, once because I had to turn around, and the second time when I got home and I found out all the "bad" things he did. He offered some kind of "bring it back", but after I saw his work I will not allow him or his "crew" to put a foot in my RV. As per the Attorgey General, I will sen the shop a letter of complaint; he may consider and give me my money back. But looking at the "rules" I can describe everything they did and just no put their name down. W

Thank you all for the replies. I did look at the Estate Attorney General complaint forms and that is the way I will go. If we cant't tell who did bad, how other would not fall in the same pit? Don't tell does not defeat the purpose of this forum? Just asking Bad experiences should be saying. I wish someone would have told me about this shop.

Thank you all for the replies. I did look at the Estate Attorney General complaint forms and that is the way I will go.

Hello I am considering suing a bad repair shop that did a terrible work. I will explain the work done in another thread, the repairs were done in a different state of where I leave, so I am asking the following: Choose a lawyer from where the repairs were done or from my own state? Any experiences would be appreciated

Rick, I am not so sure if you a referring to me when you say OP. I like to explain few things, Yes the Alternator is not working, Yes the Alternator is three weeks old and stopped working, along with all my gauges.Yes is a Leece Neville ( Chinese made) alternator. Now; I agreed with your schematic for the Dynastys that you attached, and I looked at 1999 Diplomat, 2000 Windsor, 2000 HR Endevour, 2001 Dynasty, 2002 Windsor and 2004 Windsor, and they all are basically the same. They label the connectors differently, they change the location but in the end are equal; one giveaway is they use the same BOX 1 and Box 2 in all. But without ignition signal you can put the best original alternator and it would not work. So when I say the alternator charges when BV is giving from another source to the alternator and it charge as it suppose I can say with certainly that the alternator is charging. You are are stating "he declines to provide pertinent info, instead option to swearing the alternator is fine". What pertinent information I didn't provide? I posted all my findings as I am learning them. Definitely I am not familiar with these system, but I can read a wiring diagram; unfortunately the information is very poor; I can't talk about other manufacturers but Monaco was lousy making diagrams. You can't read them (small letters) , there is no location of components and have many other faults; to my credit I worked for 40 years as an auto technician, and I can tell you that wiring diagrams on a Volkswagen, Mercedes Benz, Volvo or BMW are 300 times more complicated and sophisticated of these houses on wheels. I never could get over they way the shoveled all harnesses under cabinets, dashboards and chassis. Nothing secured, extra miles of cables just laying in there. So going back to MY problem, here is the pertinent information, I removed the BOX #2, I dissembled it, inspect all connections and fuses, I was interested to know where 62D and 62C where located. Tomorrow I will find out which one is the culprit of short to ground. Now so you know, I have short to ground from the non powered side of the fuse to ground and the 5 amp inline fuse that attaches to the ignition port of the alternator is removed, so as today, I don't now if the wire going to the gauges or the one going to the alternator is the faulty one. Again I need to solve the ignition signal problem first; my batteries are new. As per the the Alternator relay, accordingly with your diagram the "gray wire goes to the low voltage relay, which I don't know where is located, and to the tachometer. With the part number Bosch 0332 204 001 or Hamsar 41020 I hope I can find where they put it. As per your request: Old Alternator Leece Deville Duvac System 2824LC ( I discarded because the case was crack) New Alternator :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HBSZJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know the wire color, I know the Alt sense wire because there is a fuse so I traced back to that fuse and I installed on the alternator. My RV has only 38,000 miles and I am the original owner. Wiring diagrams were downloaded from this site. William

Thank you. I also have been going though those diagrams and seems like Monaco, even though it changes locations is basically using the same diagrams on 1999 to 2004 Windsors and Diplomats. From the Ignition BUS power is supplied to a 10 amp fuse labeled "Dash", from the fuse and inside the BOX #2 the current is split in two different directions. one on PIN 62D (don't know why is called Dash fuel gauge?)and PIN 62C that goes to the voltmeter. This fuse blows every time and it is not connected to the alternator. So tomorrow I will disconnect the bottom right plug on BOX #2 and see which one is shorted out; that will guide me towards the no ignition signal, would love to find the alternator relay. I will try to follow the S5 wire. Thank you

Tom, Even thou the alternator was replaced, it works, my alternator is not the issue as far as I know. If I supply battery voltage to the ignition stud, the alternator works. My problems is that I don't get a signal from the ignition to the alternator, and if I supply 12 volts to it, the the alternator charges, but my gauges still don't work. I could not rebuild my old alternator, the case was cracked, I installed a new one sold b y AJ Electric https://store.aj-elec.com/new-160-amp-alternator-for-applications-with-a-battery-isolator-and-duvac-system

I just spent one hour on the phone with Monaco technical support with no avail. Very frustrating.

Thank you for all your replies. My alternator is working, kind of. And please I will not change the alternator or modify anything. My problem is not the battery isolator . In MY coach, the positive cable FROM the alternator, and I say FROM because that is how the current should flow, is getting BV (battery voltage) directly from the chassis battery; at this point I don't know if Monaco installed a diode inline or not. My problems are two, and most likely are related. At the alternator there is TWO wires that connects to the alternator, both have inline fuses, one connects to the accessory voltage post that supplies RPM signal and also, I believe to the other gauges, and the other wire goes to the Ignition input, this one is totally dead, nothing happen there. But the first one, that supplies AV (alternator voltage) to the gauges is shorted out. The fuse blows every time I supply voltage to it. So where is the short and how I trace it back without a circuit schematic? I will keep you post it

Definitively your 110 connection should be a dedicated wiring with a breaker. Monaco used to wired the coach for many options, the connections may be there. Are you going to do it yourself? www.WooddesignRV.com does a beautiful job.

If I jump (provide power) to the ignition the alternator is charging. So at this point I have to assume that the alternator is charging. Saying that, Jim provided with a helpful information I want to clarify couple thing: I provided the alternator to the repair facility that was doing "Body Repairs"; I DID NOT installed it. It was working (charging) for few weeks. When they replaced the alternator, they also replaced the "Battery Cut off Relay" and the "checked" (whatever that means) the Battery Isolator Relay. Now I am question everything they did. I have Battery Voltage at the back of the alternator, that is not the alternator fault, but the isolator that is not switching. So I toke the time to do a diagram (attached) and I found out that the way the wiring is connected it provides voltage all the time to the alternator. I color the chassis wires Red and Domestic wire red so there is no confusion. I am welcome to opinions. As per your suggestion of installing a Delco Remy alternator, I would have done it, if I had the coach in my possession and/or I would trust an installer. I live in New York, my coach was in Indiana, and this people screwed my RV and they were doing what they claim is their specialty; they did install the alternator and I have to guide them how to wire it, even though they toke it off; and for the looks of what I do see, they manage to screw this too. Wiring Bay1.pdf

This is great, Accordingly with this diagram the schmuck that installed the alternator it wired it wrong. Can you please enlarge the area around the alternator and send it to me? Thanks so much

I will check this morning. thank you. I installed an Duvac alternator that are sold by AJ Electric, and Jim Ferrari is been helping me to try to figure what is happening. Just to clarify, My coach is a 2000 Windsor and even though I have a partial wiring diagram, does not show how the ignition signal gets to the alternator.

Thank you for all your replies. This is what I am standing as up today. The reason why you see corrosion on the circuit breaker is because I had a water leak on the right rear window. The damages were extensive and expensive, the whole side was replaced. When I picked up my RV the alternator went and the "same" type of alternator was installed along with the battery cut off relay. Last Thursday I lost all my gauges and the alternator stopped charging. Saturday I found out that I don't have ignition signal to the alternator. If I supply power to the alternator ignition input, the alternator is charging. I cannot find a diagram so I can trace back that wire. It has to be a relay in the middle, I doubt they just ran a single wire from the ignition switch.I have voltage at the alternator without the engine running. I believe the smaller heavy wire coming out of the battery isolator on the right in the attached picture is the alternator cable that goes to that circuit breaker. But the way the cable is connected right now it will feed the alternator all the time. If I am not mistaken the chassis batteries and the alternator are connected all the time with this setup. I din't check if the alternator is outputting voltage to the tachometer or not, I will check it today, but my voltmeter is on zero, all other gauges are stopped in the time when all this happen. So I need to correct one thing at the time, and find the ignition signal source is my first priority. Thanks

My alternator stopped working yesterday; on top of that, I have no rpm signal (coming from alternator) but all my gauges are stuck where they were Rpm at 300 rpm, speed at 0, fuel at what is was, and so on. with the exception of the oil pressure that starts at 80 lbs and goes to 120+ (out of the ball field) and it may go to 60 lbs at idle. Voltage is at 12.5 all the time. Here are the weird things is happening. The Park Brake light indicator comes on when the parking brake is pushed down (activated) so it is working backwards. The battery relay cut off is getting really hot, new just installed: WHITE RODGERS 70-902 CONTACTOR, SPST-NO, 12VDC, 80A, BRACKET. Power at the positive side of the alternator is supplied all the time by the battery isolator, (new). What makes feed the alternator while the engine is not running? I have many more questions than answers. The alternator was installed 3 weeks ago and it was working fine and all of the sudden I lost everything. Besides the gauges, and the fact that is not charging, everything else seems fine. I will like to get more info on schematics. Anyone knows what is that part on my electrical bay? I know is corroded, I had water coming in through the seal of the right rear window. History for another topic. Thank you

Looking for information on refrigerant capacity on the main AC unit. R134 capacity is critical to get a good performance. To much refrigerant and the higher pressure will shut the system or blow the relief valve. Too low and will not cool properly. Txs