Bill C

I believe you are right Ivan, thanks for your insight. Another question: with these kind of pex fittings, is the only way to remove them, is with something like a Dremel tool to cut the brass band?

Good Day All, I have seen other threads on this issue, but I think mine is a little different from the other posts (my part is different). I have a similar problem in that my City Water and Water fill Transfer Valve leaks, when turned off, letting water through to the fresh water tank, causing it to overfill/over flow. When I turn off the city water completely, no overflow. When I then turn my water pump on, with the city water fill valve off, the pump cycles on and off, as if something is leaking water, but nothing is (that I can tell). And, of course, whenever the city water fill valve is turned on to fill the holding tanks, if the water pump is on, it always runs, so this is no surprise. I tried turning off the ManaBloc flows, and the only one that made a difference, and just a little difference, was the Kitchen sink/Ice maker tube, and the only changed was slightly less time between cycles, but it still cycled. I'm thinking the City water and water fill valve needs replacing, but I am not sure of the brand/part number to order. It looks like it says 400 WOG, but I'm not sure. My valve is small, and has a simple pex pipe connection on each end. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill

I have a 2001 Dynasty and replaced all my instrument/gauges/stereo panels (3 in all). While I did it, I replaced all my gauges in the front panel. One reason was, 2-3 of my gauges did not work properly, including the speedometer. It hasn't work for just about the life of the coach. I purchased the panels, and gauges from Custom Instrument Panels, 800-462-7535, http://www.custominstrumentpanels.com/ The advantage of purchasing the panels and gauges from them is: they will install, and prewire, all the gauges for you. Lessons learned: 1. Some of my sensors had to be replaced: Oil pressure (or Engine Temp, can't remember which), Trans Temp, and Fuel Gauge. They provide the sensors, but on sensor was not the correct size, but they swapped it out at no charge. In the case of the fuel gauge, I had to try 2-3 different ones before getting the right one. Taking the dash out and putting it in several times to try the diff fuel gauges was no picnic. I never removed the steering column, but if you did, it would really help. 2. You have to remove the old threaded parts off of the old panel (see last pic), and glue them on to the new panel. These threaded parts hold the dummy light panel to the larger panel. Some of the holes they made did not line up exactly, so I had to improvise. The glue they recommended, and others I tried using, didn't hold very well. After removing the dash 3+ times, 3 to try diff fuel gauges, and a couple more times for other issues, the glued in threaded parts did not hold. After several additional attempts, I gave up and screwed the panel with all the dummy lights on to the larger panel. 3. The large Sony monitor, for the backup camera and Triptec, was so heavy that the threaded parts would not hold it so I had to replace it with a lighter LED monitor and replaced the backup camera system with a wireless one. I don't have any pics of my new dash as my RV is in NC and I am in FL at the moment. I've attached a few pics of the panels I replaced. In the Left Front and Mid Front you can see the dummy light panel behind the main panel. In the Right Front Pic is the heavy Sony Monitor I replaced. If you replace the stereo panel, as I did, they will ask you for the exact dimensions. I guess my dimensions were not quite right, as I had to do some additional trimming. Feel free to call me (msg me for my cell #) if you have any more questions. Since your Dynasty is a year newer, your dash may be totally different from mine. Hope this helps Bill USN Retired

I have the same toilet. I always thought that the squeaky sound was from the moving rubber flap, sticking" a little on the sides of the slot that it goes in to. I have tried many suggestions from people, including Vaseline, white silicone grease, WD-40, etc. and I think the most affective was the Vaseline. Some will say that the Vaseline ingredients will hurt the rubber, but who knows. I consider the noise more of a nuisance than the rubber concern. Bill

Boy, you’re a lot more ambitious than I am: swapping it out on your own. I’m afraid I’m not much help but I sure wish you luck. I hope somebody can help you.

Thanks Gary

2/25/2023 Update: After using the hot water at around 135 deg for a few weeks we decided to lower the temp down to 120 deg and like this temp better. To get to 120 deg, I rotated the valve/handle a little over 1/2 in the CW (if facing the valve handle) direction. Hope this helps.

Hi Gary, how did your seats turn out? Have any contact info for the ex employees?

👍👍

When I close my Step Cover I can hear a significant air leak for a while. It appears to be coming from the ram rod that pushes the step cover in and out (the end nearest the door). It only leaks when the step cover is in, not when it is out. I have noticed that my air system leaks over time, but I have never been able to find a leak under the coach. Perhaps this is one of the contributors to the leak. Anyone know where I can get a replacement for the Air Ram (I'm not sure of the correct term, Air Ram is my term). Here are a few pics for reference. I also noticed that there is nothing attaching the other end of this Air Ram (deep inside the pocket). Is this normal? I have a 2001 Monaco Dynasty Queen MH. Thanks, Bill USN Retired

For those that want the part number, and did not see my link in an earlier post, here is the Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-LF70A-F-1-Temper-2sweat/dp/B008C14DUM/ref=sr_1_22?crid=2ODILD9THHYE7&keywords=watts+lf70a&qid=1675375353&sprefix=%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-22 I believe it is a: Watts Product LF70A-F Bill

Good Day All, Here is an updated to my shortage of Hot Water in my Monaco Dynasty Shower. The good news is: Problem Solved! Here is a summary of what I tried during my troubleshooting: 1. I looked for, and planned to remove, any calcium in the shower system, but there was none. 2. I replaced the Moen Cartridge in the shower, and found that it was a Moen 1225, some thought it was a 1222. This did not resolve my issue. 3. I tried rotating the tempering valve to increase the hot water but it did not help. I later found that my tempering valve was broken, making it impossible to adjust the water temp either way. 4. I bought a rebuild kit from Home Depot for the Aqua Hot (AH) tempering valve, recommended to me by one of our members. It was not exactly like mine so I can't use it. 5. Thanks to Gary, I was able to find a replacement tempering valve from Amazon. I used the guts from the tempering valve that I purchased from Amazon (the link is in my earlier thread). While trying to rebuild the tempering valve I found that mine was broken inside (which is why turning the handle on the valve did nothing). Attached is a pic of my old tempering valve, showing the broken part. I've also included a comparison pic of my old tempering valve, along side of the replacement tempering valve. I was a little concerned when I saw that there was a little difference, but I later found that this was not a concern, as the replacement tempering valve works GREAT! Before I replaced my tempering valve the hot water temp inside the coach was about 96 degrees. After replacing the tempering valve, the hot water temp inside the coach was about 135 degrees. Of course I can lower the water temp somewhat using the adjustment on the tempering valve. But, for now, I'll take the 135 degree temp as it will be a nice change to get a hot shower. And, of course, we will be careful not to scald ourselves by properly adjusting the hot and cold water to a safe, but comfortable, water temp, resulting in a safe, comfortable shower. As a side note: at home, we have the water temp on our on demand hot water heater set to 140 degrees, so we are used to the higher hot water temps. I hope this helps other Aqua Hot users, and I appreciate everyone's inputs, and help, especially Gary... All the Best, Bill USN Retired

Awesome! Just ordered it, thanks soooo much Gary! Best Regards, Bill

Hi Gary, I appreciated all your help, but when I searched Amazon for a Watts LF70A, the only thing that showed up as a Tempering Valve for $1369 :). My local plumbing store had nothing close. Any chance you could send me the whole link, I would really appreciate it. Thanks Bill

Good Day Ray, I need to replace my tempering valve, do you have a part number or anything I can reference to purchase one?

Here's my update: As a result of the advice from many trying to help I have: 1. Look to remove any calcium in the shower system, but there was none. 2. I replaced the Moen Cartridge in the shower, and found that it was a Moen 1225, some thought it was a 1222. 3. I tried rotating the tempering valve to increase the hot water but it did not help. BTW, for those wanting to know which direction was hot, and which direction was cold, here is a pic of the tempering valve handle, CCW is hotter, CW is colder. 4. I bought a rebuild kit for the Aqua Hot (AH) tempering valve, recommended to me, from Home Depot. It was not exactly like mine so I can't use it. While trying to rebuild the tempering valve I found that it was broken inside, so turning the handle did nothing. Now I need to find a replacement tempering valve, so I can use the guts to replace mine with. Any suggestions as to where I can find a new tempering valve?? Thanks, Bill

My switch has 6 wires, not sure what they all do, but will try and look them up

Can you share how you did that Richard?

Yes I updated my post to clarify that, and included a pic. Thanks Wayne.

Does anyone know where to get a replacement diesel rocker on/off switch for the Aqua Hot-AHE-100-01S? Here is a pic of the rocker switch (on the left) Thanks, Bill

Nut, what nut?

Thanks Ivan, I wish I had knew that, I would not have purchased the 1222, mine is pull out 🙂 Bill

I think you are correct Stephen, it is probably a 1225. The 1222 is too big in diameter, my inside diameter is about .79 inches. I will be able to confirm once I get the Moen tool tomorrow and can remove the old one. It is a brass one and the 1225 tool didn't quite reach it. I've also learned that the brass one's are really hard to get to move, and a plastic tool just won't do the job. Bill Good Day Ivan, Please remind me of my question to your answer "turning counterclockwise to adjust". Forgive me if I lost the bubble on this discussion 🙂 Thanks, Bill

Thanks for sharing this Air System doc Jim, good info. Bill

Thanks Ivan