Martinvz

Thanks for all the replies. So far I have not noticed any comments telling me that it could be fatal. So I guess I will do some surgery soon. Martin

Belt and suspenders? Tell that to Monaco. I was just asking about living in the danger zone, lol. Martin

I have a question related to this link. In the photo you can see the pressure regulator we have and above it is a device that I assume is a flow restrictor or fixed pressure regulator that was installed on the coach. Do we need both or can I remove the circled item? What are the pros and cons of removing this item? TIA, Martin

Bob, I cannot comment on your specific throne and installation. We had a similar leak and decided to replace the inlet valve. After watching Youtube videos I ordered the parts for our Thetford throne so that I could replace the valve and seals. It definitely is not the most pleasant task but quite doable. You can do only the valve if you have sufficient space and like working in very tight spaces. Complete removal was a lot easier for me. The culprit was the inlet valve that had a lot of micro cracks, probably due to freezing even when it was winterized. The removal and reinstall is pretty straight forward. The only issue was that I must have installed the one seal ring incorrectly and needed to redo it. My advice is to check the operation before reinstall of the throne, assuming you will be removing the throne. The outcome? The throne works even better as the original had some operational issues from when we bought the coach. Martin

One other suggestion, considering you are facing some surgery. While you have the water heater out, also consider replacing the pressure relief valve. Martin

I had to replace the element on our Atwood wh. The regular socket you find just would not get a good grip. Used a 1.75” socket with a breaker bar to break it loose. How to get in to the element in your coach sounds like a challenge. Good luck and all the best. Martin.

We had a similar problem last year on our LaPalma’s rear a/c. As I understand it, the RJ45 (?) runs from the thermostat to the front a/c. There is a second RJ45 from the front to the rear unit and theses are used to control the a/c’s. The problem we had was that the power is controlled by the Intellitech board next to the breakers in the bedroom. You will have to remove the cover panel to access it. If you have 110v at the board and the breakers then the power should be at the a/c as the relay for the a/c is a normally open relay. The board does the power management and load shedding. Check this out and see if this narrows it to a solution. Our solution was to buy a new replacement board. You can look on the website for M&M as they seem to be the best support for the Intellitech boards. On investigation, we found that there is an upgraded spec and components, which is what I bought. So far it has worked 100%. Easy swap out for the replacement. I am not sure if your coach has the same board but the above is my experience. Martin

Have you checked Oemy’s references? Also check with Brazels. They are good with the gas coaches but I have no experience ito their knowledge on Diesel coaches.

Hi Mark, Some coaches use a heavy duty arm and you seem to have that version. The lighter duty could be a normal auto wiper blade. I have not looked for one of that lenght and cannot advise it it will be available in the stores. Martin

Hi Gary, In Parkadvisor and RVtrip Wizard you can check if it is allowed. Make sure to also read the reviews as the permission notes are not always updated. We often make use of this feature in these apps. I am sure other apps also have the feature. the Walmart book also list this but we have not invested in the latest revisions and cannot rely only on the outdated book. The last list you refer to and that I saw was not recent.

Sounds like not having the Navi software built-in in my 2014 CR-V is a selling point, for now.

The blinker may be ok. However, You may need to order inline resistors for the turn signal to provide the correct resistance (and slow the blinkin thing down) 😎. This seems to be a common problem with LED turn signal lamp replacement.

Susan, you did mot mention that you checked the wiring to the 12v outlet and all connection are good. Just a suggestion. On my LaPalma there are fuse holders in the engine compartment and under the dash at the drivers pedals. Next is the collection in the first storage bin on the drivers side. Lots of places to check. One other thing is that the 12v outlet may be powered by the house and not by the chassis battery, in which case you will need the check the fuses for the house 12v. In my coach this is in the same bin as the house batteries.

I also bought Trico blades from Amazon. The standard automotive wiper arm has a smaller size and you need to get the heavy duty (or truck) blade fitting. I cannot remember the size to search for. Hope this helps.

In our coach the Intellitec board is adjacent to the 110v circuit breakers. I had to remove the cover plate (remove all the screws for this and the board was there. Your layout may be different. There is no reset on the Intellitec 750 in our coach. It is powered by the 110v in the coach and my not have a reset at least not any that I could see.

Intellitec 760 follow-up Going back to the earlier responses in the thread and the issue I was having with the Intellitec 760 EMS. I am happy to say that I have the new controller installed (with the upgrade kit). Install was easy but needs more than 2 hands to fight the stiff wiring. The end result is that everything seems to be working again, including both A/Cs running at the same time off the 50A in the campground. It has solved some other issues I have noticed and this is one Happy Camper. Thanks for the input. For those interested, I am attaching the Model 700 install instructions which also includes some troubleshooting guides. The model 760 installation page is a brief one page and is not really very meaningful. Also mentioned are the relays and if these are normally open or closed. From my understanding, the A/C relays are normally closed so that power is provided to the AC units. These are turned on and off by the thermostat (and not the EMS). There is an RJ45 cable to the from A/C and an additional one from the front to the rear A/C. Model 700 Install - 53-00894-000.pdf

Thanks for a very detailed explanation and the implications of a failure on the road. Some questions: How would I determine if the alternator is DUVAC type? Were the DUVAC alternators used only on the DP coaches or also on the gas (I have a W24 Workhorse chassis)? Do you have any idea when Monaco stopped using DUVAC alternators?

We just joined the forum although we have had the coach for 6 years and we are loving it. Thanks for allowing us to join. Thanks for the detailed explanation earlier in the thread. We recently determined that we had no power to the rear A/C and traced it to the Intellitec 760 controller. There is no visible damage to the board. Right now the rear A/C circuit is not connected to the board. This should not be a problem as we will have a 50A power connection for our next camping trip. I had help from Jeff Malatesta (rvdiagnostics.com). Jeff did some research and advised to buy the 760 with the upgrade kit. I just purchased one from rvpartsexpress.com (thanks for the recommendation). Jeff's advice is to use the upgrade kit as they are making use of better components (beefier). In addition, the included current sensor ring should be used to replace the existing sensor ring as the new components are matched. The price for the Upgrade kit is about $372 while the best we could find for the original board is $338. For the small price increase I will definitely settle for the upgrade kit. Jeff mentioned that the relays are normally open for the circuits but for the 2 A/Cs the relay is normally closed. I am not able to verify this and accept it based on his knowledge. Happy glamping.