Martinvz

Do you have a schematic of the electrical wiring for the steps? It is dependent on the shape of the controller box as the newer box could be different. The old controller was square and the new controller is square but with one corner stretched out (that is my best description). Look online on Lippert.com if you would like to see the shapes. Alternatively, post a pic of the controller you have. I have a copy of the new controller and can share that. I found Lippert’s customer support to be very helpful an am sure they could help you figure this out.

Do you know of a machine shop that could make one for you using the old one as template? It can be nylon and not steel. I am not sure if the normal 3D printing material will be strong enough.

You could have 2 flasher units under the dash. One is for turn signals and the other for emergency flashers. I do not expect these to be combined. On my coach it is a cylindrical unit about 1” in diameter and about as tall connecting to 2 wires. Get under the dash to find and remove it. As Tim said check that is correctly seated. If it is still not working, you can get a replacement at any auto parts store for less than $20.

Keith, Do you have a diesel or gas coach? I had an ABS light on mine and called Brazels RV as they are known for their Workhorse chassis support and knowledge. They advised that you need to visit a dealer with a specific scan tool that can read the ABS codes on the Workhorse. I forget the scan tool name but that should be easy to find again. My ABS light has reset after I disconnected the chassis battery for a diff purpose. You could try that and see if that will reset it.

In my opinion, your coach will be safe to drive. The ABS affects the hard braking that might be needed but under normal braking situations it should not need to be activated. You can keep somewhat longer distances between your coach and the vehicle ahead if that will make you feel safer. If the buzzer does not stop, then you could disconnect it as it is warning you. You may need to find a shop with the appropriate diagnostic scanner to correctly determine the cause of the error light. Other members may have different opinions as to the drivability and safety aspects.

Measure the step side to side. Then contact Lippert, they will be happy to sell you a new controller. They do not come cheap but is better than the whole step plus controller. Make sure that you get the magnetic micro switch for the controller as the new one needs the correct switch. Alternatively, you can try the salvage yards to see if you can get an old or new controller (again with the micro switch).

Madison has several poi places. One is the Crane Foundation that has several crane species from around the world that can be seen there.

You are correct with your solution. We hD to replace our steps as well and found the same issue i.e. that we had ‘suicide steps. The steps would extend with the door closed and retract with the door open. I called Lippert and they explained that the magnetic switch had to be replaced, as you mentioned. The new switch was provided in the kit and was easy to install. The dealership will probably listen and just take no action, if you were to complain. However, they caused hardship and did damage to the harness from the controller of the steps and any future damage resulting in wire corrosion due to their action and your subsequent correction.

Coachnet starts out very expensive but the rate does come down when you renew, not that I know what the minimum is. Also, Coachnet was purchased last year and the jury is still out in terms of the level of service and if it will be the same in future years.

Thanks to Tom Wallis and Frank Bergamo for pointing out the Flair-it brand and that was what pointed us to the part. I did not find it in the stores we visited and had to draw the line some where. We found the part on Amazon as Flair-it elbow part number 16816 as in the photo below. I also found that the seals on the ftp side are available on Amazon. I had purchased a brass pex to ftp connector but it was not the correct fitting. A friend had the correct Flair-it elbow which I installed and we have been free of leaks. The photo is of the purchased part in the packaging to keep (and hopefully never to be used). the part number is visible at the bottom. I suggest that the part be added to the Monaco parts list, if it is not already there.

Well, I put the battery charger on the battery last night and the battery voltage this morning was 12.9V and 4 hour later it settled to just over 12.8V with which I was very happy. I received help from Nick (@K9 EXEC) who offered to come and help as he was in the area. we checked the volage and the battery and the voltage would change when the pressure on the screw in terminal was changed. Nick was concerned about this and we replaced the battery because on inspection in the store it was clear that the battery case was bulging. We also opted for different screw in terminals that would make better contact with the battery cables. After installation the engine charging was correct and after shutting down the parasitic draw was very low. The conclusion is that the battery was faulty and needed to be replaced. As far as the Latching relay, we agreed that is for the 'salesman switch'. We also confirmed that there was not a Bird relay installed and that the battery was not charged when on shore power (oh, well, easy enough to charge it up periodically) and it took me only 11 years to learn that. Thanks to all for the great advice and specifically Nick for his help and con versation.

I have a TST 507 tpms. I have 6 flow-thru on the coach and 4 caps on the toad. The only one that has given me an issue is one of the caps that I had to replace. I find removing the caps to inflate or check the pressure a pita. Personally stating that the flow-thru has a higher failure rate is a generalization. Yes, it can be but there are differences based on the brand, age, etc. The mass when driving should not make much of an impact compared to the mass of the spinning tire. JMHO

Joe, The files are in the Files section on this site. No charge. After 2 years and 10,000+ miles I have not lost any covers.

Tom C, thanks for all the info. I will get stuck into it tomorrow. Tom W, we did not have an issue in the past with the battery not being charged and I believe that we do have the latching relay installed but need to confirm it in the documentation. On the dash is a battery boost switch that I had used in the past. At the moment it is on a charger and I will check the status in the morning. This group is always amazing with the depth of knowledge and willingness to help.

This morning we found the awning wound not retract and on testing I found a very low voltage. All the fuses appear to be fine. The steps will not retract and confirms the low voltage on the engine battery. We are on shore power here in FL. We had moved the coach to a different site less than 3 weeks ago and it started without a problem. As you can see from my signature i have a W24 Workhorse chassis meaning I do not have a diesel engine but a Gas Engine with a 12V starter battery. The 12V battery was replaced in December 2023. It appears that I do not have a BigBoy but rather a KIB LR9806 Latching relay, which does something similar to the BigBoy. With the drain on the battery, the volage is down to about 5V and I suspect I am in the market for a new battery, again. Right now it is on the battery charger hoping I can get some life back into it. I have a electrical diagram for a 2005 LaPalma but have not been able to find a 2006 version. The front driver side bay has the relay and fuses as can be seen in the attached photos. My question is how to test the latching relay and is it the same as for the BigBoy as described in the post below? Below are the applicable photos The Latching relay is in the bottom lefthand corner of the first photo and a close-up in the other photo.

I agree with Ben. That is what I had and I am happy that I eliminated these 180 degree extenders. Did they work? Absolutely and no failure on the 2 that I had. Still, these rotated a little and I was only 80% satisfied with them.

I recently had to replace a valve stem because the stem seal leaked causing a slow leak situation. I asked the installer if it could be changed No problem, he said. He found a short stem and then bent it so that the tpms sensor would be at an angle and also the inflator to clear the center hub. So far, no excessive vibration on the rear axle and no leak either. This also deleted the 180 degree extender that I previously used on the outer valve stems. I liked the new stem so much I asked the installer to do the other outer wheel as well. Below are 2 photos to show the new valve stems.

A week ago we found water leaking and traced it to the Pex elbow as shown at the top left of the picture, below. The water heater is an Atwood 10 Gal unit. The fitting was loose and I tightened the screw connector to the copper to stop the water leak. I thought I was done but this evening I heard a drip and found the fitting leaking, again. When I removed the fitting (after turning off the water and relieving the pressure), I found that the fitting was in fact broken thus causing the leak. Looking at the post below for info, I assume, not having any calipers with me) the Pex pipe should be 1/2 or 5/8 inch and the Female threaded connector is 3/4 because it is much larger than the 1 inch garden hose female fitting (I know, it is a terrible way to measure). Several members ran into plumbing issues at the water heater recently and I was hoping for guidance on which size elbow fitting to purchase. My best estimate is that it is, as mentioned, 1/2" ID and 5/8 "pex OD and 3/4" female threaded elbow that I need. There were other post(s), related to the back-flow preventer valves such as: Any help primarily with the Pex size and threaded fitting would be greatly appreciated.

This is not directly related. At the den of 2022 I found a lot of scale when I drained the water heater as part of the winterizing process. A year later (2023) the amount of scale was considerably less than before when flushing the water heater with the wand. The only difference is that in March ‘23 I purchased a water softener and filter.

I have new slide toppers from Talin. I know from the DW’s craft as a seamstress that it is near impossible to perfectly stitch fabric so that it will be 100% tight all along the length of the slideout. So we do have some pooling but we view this as a minor inconvenience. That said, I have not increased the spring tension of the toppers to see if this will improve the ponding.

As Denis mentioned, the screws can be challenging to remove where the valance blocks it. An angle driver that fits a drill driver solves the problem. Dewalt makes such an attachment.

Ed, was the butyl tape between the glass panes or between the frame and coach exterior? The frame myst be sealed to the exterior. If the rubber seal does not seal anymore then you can use butyl tape to seal it. When the window is reinstalled then make sure that it is sealed, even if you have a pro do the clean and reinstall - just talking from experience.

Richard, are you an FMCA member? If so, try their insurance agent. We changed to Progressive late last year and saved a bundle.

Chip, Again, very useful info re the wiring. I also did not know about the Magnadyne adapter. Thanks.

Tom, That document is what I have been looking for as my Magnadyne is failing. The question is do you have access to more versions of the radio and specifically a 2006/7 LaPalma?