Martinvz

I had a similar problem a year ago. Turns out that the switch was faulty and had to be replaced. Had to pull the switch an find an equivalent switch online. However, the water heater still would not heat. To access mine, I had to remove the partitioning under the sink to get to the element contacts. The resistance was not 14 ohm (can’t remember if zero or very high). Ordered a new one. Replacement is not easy. Had to use a short socket (and breaker bar) as the element is angled to the floor and a household water heater socket does not fit. And remember to drain the water first! Since then, the heater has worked perfectly.

The switch says 120v but all the power on the panel is 12v, I believe. You do not have an Intellitec display anywhere in the coach? What year is your coach?

I believe the switch is 12v working thru a relay on your Intellitec ems sitting behind the coverplate next to your 120v breaker switches. Is your Intellitec display on the same panel as your water heater switch. I have attached a picture of my coaches panel with the bottom item being the Intellitec display.

Check if you have 120v at the water heater using a volt meter with the 120v switch on(use caution). If you have 120v then turn off the power and measure the ohms across the heater element. Expect to see about 11 to 14 ohms (you can find youtube videos on this topic). If the reading is zero then you have a bad element and need to replace it.

Is there a relay that may have decided not to cooperate? Find a similar relay and temporarily swap these and check if the lights now work.

I do not know if member Todd White still has his old RF18 fridge sitting at home. Pm him to find if he can ship parts. I believe he just replaced it with a new fridge.

My coach has 4 jacks and is different from yours. On my coach I usually run the engine and I know that the hydraulic pump is electrical, so the engine has almost zero impact on the leveling. When we first got the coach the auto level would raise the coach very high, sometimes with the rear wheels off the ground. Since then I always level manually starting with the rear jacks, then with the front. Now I never raise the rear wheels off the ground as there is a risk that the coach could run on a sloped site. I suggest that you try manually leveling your coach. Time wise it may be faster once you learn the process. The other thing you can do is to calibrate the leveling system and there is documentation on how to do it or have a dealer do it for you (I did not have a good outcome of the dealer doing it). all the best and let us know what your outcome is.

I was planning to install a 2 din radio but found I did not have room to spare for the additional size. So I will have to settle for a 1 din and there are many options available. I guess I will have to again make up a list of requirements and then start shopping.

I agree to some extent re diesel but diesel does not contain ethanol (as an additive) which is hydroscopic (attracts water). That is why an additive is needed when a gas coach is placed in storage. More frequently is at the owner’s discretion.

Tom stressed a point that we did not and that is to fill the tank to reduce the volume of air in the tank. This will reduce the moisture that can enter the tank. Tom, thanks fir all the explanation and detail you provided.

Go with the Stabil and that is what I have been using on our WorkHorse chassis. Make sure to run the generator for at least 20 minutes (as it takes a while for the treated gas to reach the generator) and also turn an a/c on to exercise the generator.

If you want a BlueRay player, look at Walmart. I just bought a unit at Walmart for $68 as we had some movies we wanted to watch. These are now old school but still usable.

I may way off base but on my coach with hydraulic jacks I get a similar issue if the reservoir is not completely full. Make sure all the jacks are retracted and check the oil level. When in doubt, you may want to add some and see if it solves the problem.

We only have hydraulic jacks,2 up front and 2 at the rear (no airbags on the gas coaches, that I know of). I have found that I need to get the wheels as level as I can using large planks. Then I can level the coach quite easily, doing it manually. If I do not get the tires onto blocks first then the leveling system, (auto or manual) tends to lift one rear jack off the ground (or blocks) and will not stabilize the coach. Very irritating. Front and back is not a problem but side to side is and only the rear jacks will correct a low side with dome twisting of the frame. one other thing I find is that the coach is stable for about a week and then becomes somewhat unstable, requiring some relevelling. I have no magical solutions but hoping someone has advice.

Amazon has it. Look for gripper tape. 1 or 2 inches should be sufficient.

Frederic and I have been discussing the layout in the background and found our dash and control panel to be quite different. I do not know if it is a model year change or a mid-year change or due to options. I have noticed that the same panel is used in the DPs but I am not sure from which year. See my photo below.

Interesting ….. We have one on the dash and another on the control panel where the Magnum remote is, and both work. Talk about a change in model year, to add a second generator remote switch.

Do you have a remote start on the control panel in the middle of the coach? I have one in this panel.

Have you swapped the 2 display units to make sure both are working and that that the cable is operational or defective? If not, that will help isolating the probpem area.

I agree with Ivan in the use of the washers, especially with the ss rivets needing much more force to install, possibly the cause of the cracks, jmho

You can buy the complete assembly (arm and mf switch) at Brazels or just the multi-function switch at about half the cost. All depends on where the problem lies. I recently was looking to replace the unit on our coach because the wipers were going haywire. Thankfully the issue has not recurred since the middle of July. Me thinks I need to buy a unit just to make sure that it works as expected.

Contact Brazels RV, they have it in stock for the workhorse chassis. They will match the parts to your specific chassis.

Contact Talin mfg and they will explain how to measure. Chris Trogmartin (owner) is a member here and he can look at the pictures you posted.

Richard is right and that is what we do as well but not too well camouflaged. But we only keep a basement door key there and the others are in a door hanging lockbox in another basement locker.

Frederic, Just a suggestion: Have 3rd set of keys cut that you can hide somewhere on the coach, just in case of emergency.