Martinvz

Richard, the 126v is what I recall but it could have been higher. There was quite a voltage differential between the 2 legs on the power.

Could you clarify if you want to replace the complete light fitting and lamps or only the lamps? On my coach, I replaced the lamps with LED lamps and had a great improvement. There have been many threads discussing the headlight units. It comes down to getting the dot code molded into the units you currently have and then finding a replacement.

A year ago we were on our site in the camp ground we are now at in FL. One day the HW50C EMS started tripping. None of the neighboring sites seemed to have an issue but the also didid not have an ems. I checked but could not find an equipment fault in the coach. After complaining, the campground tech replaced the breaker at the post. The next day the EMS was tripping and resetting several times an hour. We again complained and the breaker was replaced again. We started to monitor the EMS display and found that the one leg was fine at 120v while the other leg would be 126v+ causing the EMS to shut down. This happened when the tech was at the site again. On his recommendation, we were moved to a different site kept for emergencies and we have not had any issues since then. That site was not occupied for some time. I do not have any knowledge of any repairs to the electrical equipment in the campground.

I am not familiar with your coach but most coaches have a 12v panel in the bedroom or cose by. Have you checked that fuse panel?

We have a PCT with a walk-thru bathroom in the center but with a sitting area in the back. There is no mention of this configuration in the article that was shared.

The ceiling fan could draw the air from the sewer pipe. This may be aggravated by a partially blocked black tank roof vent. Only inspecting the vent will determine if this could be the culprit.

Steve, You state that the slide is tilted in at the top and I am interpreting this as there is a gap at the bottom and the top is tight at the top when retracted. I had adjusted the closet slide on our coach but later returned the settings. The below is based on my experience. Monaco used a number of different mechanisms so look under the slide, at the ceiling of the storage box and behind the lower slide seal for adjustment screws for the rollers (if there are). Think carefully about what is being adjusted by the adjustment screws and how the box will move. You will not be adjusting the slide mechanism with the screws you referred to. The screws in the picture will raise the slide box relative to the slide mechanism and tilt the box. To make it possible, you need to loosen the bolts thad hold it tight as the long bolts are the adjusters primarily. Making the changes will slightly raise the box but the greater impact is the tilt relative to the coach frame. Make small adjustments such as one turn of the adjusting screws at a time (one full turn or four 1/4 turns). Make sure to lift the slide with one or more jacks before making adjustments as the box is really heavy. And be prepared to undo some of the adjustments. Also look at the paint work and alignment of the box relative to the paint on the coach body. One thing to be aware of is that lowering it too much, may result in the slide rubbing on the bottom of the opening of the coach, just above the belt line. Lots to think about and check the result by moving the slide in and out.

I am reacting to Tom’s earlier posts re the use of the wire nuts. Does anyone have experience with using the WAGO style wire connectors in a coach as replacement of the wire nuts? https://www.amazon.com/LEVER-NUTS-Compact-Splicing-Connector-Assortment/dp/B0957T1S9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_6_sspa?keywords=wire+connectors&qid=1704475135&sr=8-6-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm&psc=1

Two additional things to do: (1)clean the shaft that extends on each jack with spray lithium grease or WD-40, either will work. (2) Check the jacks for a grease zerk fitting and, if available, grease the jacks that have such fittings. These may not solve the problem but will make them work better.

Locking mounts are like hen’s teeth …. As I mentioned I have a MorRyde locking mount such as this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Dream-Lockable-Earthquake-MD2210/dp/B077Z7NVBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=38IGSA3P6VOK6&keywords=morryde+tv+mount+rv&qid=1702567292&sprefix=morryde+tv+mo%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1 At the I bought it, this was the only locking mount I could find: https://www.amazon.com/MORryde-TV1-006H-Extending-Swivel-Mount/dp/B007HRUUSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=38IGSA3P6VOK6&keywords=morryde+tv+mount+rv&qid=1702567292&sprefix=morryde+tv+mo%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-11&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

The tv mount (Frederik’s comment) is a very robust MorRyde locking mount and over the years has not given any issue nor has the Jensen tv which, at the time it was purchased, was recommended for an rv. So I am confident with the installed equipment and it has been holding up for the last 6 years. 😀 Rick, thank you fir the comment re the sub-woofer. I will have to research that.

After many years of owning the coach, I have removed the TV hardware that was used to carry the boop-tube TV and reinstalled the TV in a far better manner. It all started with the desire to cut down the head-banger box to a better size, but as I could not find enough screws to remove, I admitted defeat on that front. The re-install enables us to utilize the empty space for storage that the original TV required. Previously the flat screen TV was mounted (by yours truly) at a slight angle using the old steel structure and it would tend to droop forward somewhat when extended. With the reinstall this was corrected and everything is now level and square. The next step was to connect the TV to the combination receiver/DVD/tape player that Monaco installed. I found it would turn on but the remotes with new batteries would not make it work. We looked around for a 5.1 receiver and found an Onkyo on closeout for little over $200 at Costco. BestBuy was about $100 more but still better than the msrp price. All told, a pretty sweet deal. Removing the old receiver required careful speaker connection labeling. Thank you Monaco for installing a molex connector for the speaker wires as this allowed me to remove this and then reinstall it in the comfort at home and not in the coach. The receiver is an Onkyo TX-SR393 and installation is quite easy. The new receiver was installed this morning and the initial setup completed, including the speaker balancing. The sub-woofer would not participate in the balancing and it will be dealt with when we are parked in Fl in a few weeks. Included are some of the photos of the completed project and all the steel tv structure that I removed.

I can only agree regarding Lippert’s support team, based on my experience.

I am not sure how many step controllers there are. The old controllers have a square shape and the new controllers are similarly shaped with one corner drawn out by about an extra inch creating a point.

If you are going to replace the pex, you could consider cutting the crimps with a Dremel rotary tool. Not elegant but a possibility.

Ben, did you find your leak? I had a very slow leak and could not find it. the tire shop poured soapy water on it and found the culprit. It was the seal of the valve stem that was leaking. It just needed to be replaced.

I did not see these ‘tools’ in the list: Electrical tape Teflon tape

Doug, to create a PM message, click on the triple horizontal lines at the top right of the web page Then click on the envelope icon. That is where the messages are.

Welcome to the group from another in PA. Removing and cleaning the old stuff is going to be a PITA and could be dependent on the material that the outer roof is made of. A lot of us have fiberglass roofs and for that you can use alcohol and acetone. Other members may have other recommendations. For the roof you should use Dicor self leveling sealant or similar products on the horizontal surfaces. I use a plastic tool to smooth the Dicor so as not to create divots where water can pool. Scrape away as much of the old sealant as you can and use a hair dryer or better, a heat gun, to soften any sealant and it will be a lot easier to remove. The Dicor will bridge small gaps but for larger gaps you will need to consider a different product such as Eternabod tape that needs to be applied and then rolled with a J-roller. Once done, cover it, and especially the sides with Dicor. For the vertical sides of the coach use ‘ProFlex RV’ and beware it is sticky and not easy to smooth. Do short 6” lengths and smooth with Acetone on your finger before moving on. You can PM (private message)any member that provided info and you need additional clarification using this site. Edit: I forgot: Never use Silicone based sealants as the residue is very difficult to completely remove. The same applies to products such as Flex Seal. Stay with the recommended TV products.

If you have a multi meter. Then check the voltage across the 2 poles, assuming it is not cracked. If the voltage is above 11.8V then you have a chance (about 60%, just my guess) with both of the batteries but anything less you are better off just taking these to the auto parts store and get replacements.

Rick, great idea. Is it reusable and what about storage? Lol

Have you considered www.campsitephotos.com ? There is a free and a Prp version.

I marvel at all the suggestions and technology used and suggested. I have a small bubble levels attacked to the each of the front and side of the tv cabinet. It gives me an instantaneous display of the levelness (or not) of the site. It is actually quite accurate to use prior and during leveling. For final level check and adjustment we use a very sophisticated tool that works very well and it is very easy to store - a golf ball is what we use by placing it on the floor.

I just re-installed the front tv for various reasons. One was to get rid of the hardware (left over from the old crt tv that was removed several years ago). The mounting bracket and tv was reused, so a low cost project. It started with wanting to cut the headbanger to size but getting the box out turned out to be not possible. The end result gives us a bit more storage space and a better mounting of the tv bracket (a MorRyde locking bracket). The bedroom tv was replaced by the dealer with a flat screen tv when we purchased the coach but the cabinet was left with the crt box and not functional space. 2 years ago I reinstalled the tv and now the cabinet houses our printer and other IT items. The picture of the custom mounting plate is not complete. It is screwed to the back of the door, see the last 2 photos. We use Roku on both TVs in the coach.

Like some of the other members I have a TST tpms and it works great. it comes with a signal repeater included. I use it to check the tire pressures before starting out in the morning. I had a tire lose air from a bolt puncture on the towed car and had the tpms report it to me within 3 seconds and have video proof of this. It saved us from a lot of damage. There are a lot of different systems on the market and choosing is not so easy. However, buying cheap is not the best choice. I have seen a number of people report that the cheap tpms did not last and had to be replaced.