Bill R

Jim, so awesome! I found the drawing you mentioned. Exactly how my panel is. Now to start checking voltages and start tracing. On my way!! Will provide an update on what I found.

Thanks Jim, I am embarrassed to say I have not looked on the panel door to see if there is a schematic. My only excuse is that the door would have been above me and I didn't bother to look up. I'll check to see if there is one. I'll also check that relay you pointed out to see if it powers the System Heat. I do not have any schematics for this electric bay. I do of the coach but it does not include this bay. Thank you for pointing me in a direction to begin investigating. I will report back what I find out and go from there.

Thank you Jim, John, Richard and all. I still need a bit of hand holding on this. I have become quite familiar with a lot of the systems, but the passenger side electrical bay is one I feel the least competent. So I have attached pictures below of mine. '06 Windsor 40PDQ. If I have the cold weather relay or circuitry then I don't know how to recognize it. Thus the attached pics for help if someone could point it out if I have such a beast? My strategy is to upgrade my System Heat heater fan to be like what Richard has shared in previous posts (RoadPro). And then tie in heating pads for the tanks. Either independently or preferably as one system using the System Heat if possible. But, first steps first. 1) Identify if there is a heat system type relay, which I need help with identifying in my electrical bay. Pics below 2) Pull the wet bay panel off and see if I have any wires on top of the black and grey tanks as many of you said you had, and trace wiring to find source of power for System Heat if not in electrical bay. 3) Identify what the two unused molex wires are that I have in the fresh water tank bay. These may be able to help me, or may not help at all. I will probably put a signal generator on those to see where they are going. All my appreciation in advance for any help.

Vito - can you share the link of the one's your purchased? Mine are out too. There are so many options I want to make sure I purchase what worked for you.

Maybe they sell these?

Scotty, As a "newbie" I am still learning this site as it is. So I don't have much to offer on "what's next", but other than what is existing is already plenty for me as it has been invaluable so far.

Thank you John for sharing that these molex connectors you think are for you hose and power cord reels. That does seem strange why they would have them in the potable water tank bay. Anyway, are your connectors powered? If so, how? As I mentioned in my earlier post, I do not have any power to these connectors, and if I knew how they are powered, I might be able to use them as a source of power for heating pads. Trying to minimize work and effort to run wire for heating pads to the potable water tank.

Thanks Mike, I downloaded the diagram and unfortunately it does not appear to be the same as mine. Unless I am not looking at it correctly. I may have to start tracing from the snap disc.

I have two unused wire connectors in my '06 Windsor 40PDQ Fresh Water Tank Bay. See pic below. As I am wanting to install heating pads for the fresh water tank, I was hoping they were connections for heating pads that were an option. My manual says that turning on the System Heat button should energize the heating pads. But when I turn on the System Heat button, I do not get any voltage to these connectors. My Bay Heater does turn on, so I know I have power to the System Heat. Based on a wiring diagram provided from this forum, see below, there seems to be a heating pad relay that is energized coming from the snap disc when the System Heat Switch is on. Would anyone know where this relay might be? I am hoping that if these connectors are for heating pads, then by locating the fuse and relay I can figure out why I have no power to the connectors. Otherwise I may have to take out the service bay panel and start tracing wires. But I am hoping someone on this forum can point me in the right direction first. Maybe a relay and wires were not even installed since there are no heating pads? If so, what are these connectors for? Sorry for so many questions. Thank you for assisting me again, this forum has helped me solve so many issues. Bay Heater Wiring Diagram.pdf

Vic, I just replaced the electric actuator for one of my '06 Windsor bay door latches. There was an access panel on the inside but the mounting bracket was still covered partially by the inside bay door panel. So rather than removing all of the rivets on the panel, there are a lot, and then putting it back. I used a multi tool with metal/wood blade to cut the panel and bend it back to unscrew and remove the latch mounting bracket. You should then be able to access the latch. Afterwards I just bent the cut panel portion back over the mounting bracket and used a metal screw to affix it back in place. Yes it is not the prettiest, but not noticeable much given the multi-tool makes a thin cut and it is on the inside so no one sees or knows. If you do this, just be aware of when cutting the panel the location of wires and braces behind where you cut. If you do not want to go this route then the only other choice I know of you have already mentioned. Remove all the rivets on the inside panel and put back. TriMark were the manufacture's of my latches and helped me. www.trimarkcorp.com - 1-800-431-8616

Thank you Moe and Jeff. I'll buy the longer skirt and cut to size as you suggest.

I have noticed on my new to me 2006 Monaco Windsor that the mud "hula" skirts in the wheel wells are pretty worn. I presume they are there to protect the airbags? Looking at the parts lists and online I can only find a replacement part that no longer exists. (see below) I have tried searching for a previous thread but could not find anything. Although I am sure this is not a new issue. 12" Splash Guard Hula Skirt Has anyone replaced these and with what? Are they necessary? I presume so. Here is the link for the obsolete part. https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/monaco-rv-splash-air-bag-mudflap-10121370-p/190311.htm

Bill, Please let us know how it goes and any learnings.

So if my brochure for my 2006 Windsor say Ultraleather Pilot Seats, I should clean those as vinyl and not leather? New to this stuff.

I think a lot of the Policy $ differences might be if we are "bundling" our auto and home? Maybe not. I just switched from Progressive to Foremost and my premium went down $1,000 to $1,600/yr. This is a stand alone policy though, I am not bundling anything. Although I may reconsider. Full Coverage up to $100,000 Property with $2,000 deductible. $250,000/$500,000 limits on bodily injury. Is this still too high for a stand alone policy?

CapnDean, so which 2x12v batteries did you go with? I am in the same situation looking to replace my 4x6v AGM at end of life. I don’t plan on doing any boondocking and will use gen power if needed for those short spells.

Thank you for this separate thread as I have a similar Valid system with no Hydraulic Leveling and I am experiencing air leak issues. My '06 Windsor coach is new to me so I do not yet have a complete understanding of the entire air system. In auto or manual mode of the Valid system the coach will go completely down within 1 hour with the aux compressor kicking on every 20 minutes afterwards. Every time I start the engine the air tanks and air bags are down and takes about 5 mins to charge back up. I know that there are probably several issues going on and not just one. I have identified several substantial leaks on fittings on both the aux compressor and tanks. I am in the process of fixing those. But I know that there will probably be other issues to trouble shoot so I am asking the following questions at this time. 1) I have manually disconnected the aux compressor so it would not continue to cycle so much. I could not find a fuse anywhere. Any suggestions on where the fuse would be for the aux compressor? 2) Does anyone have an air system diagram for my coach so I can understand better how the leveling air bag system works vs the travel ride height vs air brake system? I know they are somewhat separate systems but I do not completely understand how they are isolated and interact. 3) Do the Pressure Protection Valves leak to the atmosphere? So all I have to do is spray them to see if they are working? Thank you all as this is an awesome forum. And my apologies in advance if some of my questions are misdirected as I am learning by leaps and bounds. I am sure I will have other questions once I fix all the leaks I have found.

Mike - Glad you found this out. I was going to say that I just discovered this last weekend that if I over-rotated my main battery disconnect just a bit past ON it would turn off all power. Let me know where you get the disconnects, I'd like to replace as well.

On it......thank you Kenneth, Richard and Vito.

I am sure this has happened to others and must be common. My first windy day in the new motorhome (new to me) and I noticed a tremendous amount of wind coming around the Samsung residential refrigerator cabinet during gusts. I quickly realized that it is coming through the vent on the outside for the previous Norcold refrigerator. My question is can I now seal up those vents, and if so, how is that done? Or is it better to seal around the refrigerator inside?

I am sure this has happened to others and must be common. My first windy day in the new motorhome (new to me) and I noticed a tremendous amount of wind coming around the Samsung residential refrigerator cabinet during gusts. I quickly realized that it is coming through the vent on the outside for the previous Norcold refrigerator. My question is can I now seal up those vents, and if so, how is that done? Or is it better to seal around the refrigerator inside?

I am in the same situation as JJ to do some work on the air system under the coach. It appears to me there are TWO methods being described. ONE is using wood ramp to raise the entire coach and TWO blocking between the chassis and suspension. Am I correct in what I am reading? Is it best to do both methods or just one is needed for the best and safest approach to lifting the coach to check for leaks and work on the air system?

Thank you EveryONE! I am so much better informed about EMS now. Will for sure be checking out Coach.Net.

As a "Newbie" class A member I have been reading about tire blow outs/flats/breakdowns in areas far from help that require a mobile truck to bring a tire or part to repair the coach. I want to make sure I have a good well reputable "Roadside Assistance" Program. So I am asking for suggestions. My Progressive policy says it had roadside assistance but upon further questioning it is really a car roadside policy. They will only change out a flat tire if you have a spare, and they will only tow up to 15 miles before you pay yourself the additional mileage. What a joke. I have been looking at Good Sam Roadside assistance and it seems pretty good, not sure which package to choose though if I go with them. Any suggestions for Good Sam or something else. Thank you for all who can give me suggestions.

David, thanks for confirming what I suspected that it is fiberglass. No seam, feels and sounds like fiberglass, and I had been told it was fiberglass. If it quacks like a duck……