Bill R

I agree with @cbr046 for my rig that looks exactly like the 12v supply to the multi selector unit. Look on the back of yours to see if you already have that. For my selector it provides the 12v for the OTA antenna.

@dl_racing427 David, if it stays always at zero I would suspect either a bad indicator or a leaky or plugged indicator line. These devices go bad over time. On my coach, after driving and reaching boost pressures of 25psi plus, the indicator will show around 3-5 inches H2O for a new filter. I will always reset the indicator back to zero after each trip. At least this is my experience.

I believe my filter became damp, not soaked, from all the mist kicked up from hundreds of big rigs that passed me up during a 3 hour downpour. There was no collected water in the intake pipe and the drain is clear at the intake grille. But the filter was damp. Since my filter flow is in to out and there was no screen support, I think that was a heavy factor to the failure. Brief article here from Donaldson filters on moisture getting to filters. https://www.donaldson.com/en-jp/engine/filters/technical-articles/getting-water-in-your-air-intake-system/

I had the exact same thing happen to me with that cobra boot about 2 years ago. Turned out that in a rain storm the filter became damp and collapsed. The filter did not have the mesh wire structure on it either. Also the filter was smaller than the manual specified size. I upsized the filter to spec and made sure it had the wire mesh support. Been through many rain storms since and filter minder shows good. Here is that post for reference.

@robertmrankin6612 Bob - were you measuring your fan speed at each of the voltage outputs? Or was it even connected to the pintle control valve? I am asking because on my control valve, when voltage gets down to 7V the fan is already WAO. So there would be no need to get a MC for a lower voltage. But your operation may be slightly different. The only way to find out is to hook it up to the control valve at 7V.

Bill - Good catch on noticing that. Short Answer - It is a 20A sub-panel that was installed when the PO replaced the combo W/D with a separate W/D. That subpanel is providing power to the dryer. Long Answer - shortly after I bought the coach, we were staying for several days at a campsite hooked up to 50A shore power. On occasions the pedestal 50A breaker kept tripping. I couldn't figure out why the pedestal breaker was tripping but not the coach 50A breaker. The campsite folks changed the pedestal breaker with a new one, but it happened again. At this time, since I was a fairly new Class A coach owner I just decided I would manage better the load on the coach. AC's, Dryer, HW Heater, Microwave, etc. A few month's later I noticed that subpanel box. Not knowing what it was for I traced the wires going in and out of the panel. What I discovered was that the panel was going to the Dryer and was being supplied directly from the ATS. Light bulb went off for me realizing this was bypassing the coach's panel as well as the EMS. I ended up removing the supply from the ATS and wiring into the 120V Refrigerator breaker that was no longer being used since the coach has the residential fridge now which is supplied by the inverter. No problems since.

@jacwjames Jim - thanks for pointing out that I did not come back to this post with the solution. My solution was to remove the entire section of the floor and replaced with 3/4 inch plywood and just fastened it down to the angle Iron supports with lots of silicone. And spray painted the underside with Flexseal about two or three coats. And painted the inside with oil base white two or three coats. Siliconed around on the inside corners and it has been holding really well. Here is a pic of the repair.

Bob - if your input to the PWM Motor Controller is a constant 12V signal then yes, in a sense it becomes a two speed control. However, as the RPM's increase on the engine, the fan will speed up along with the RPM's. So it is a pseudo two speed with some variable speed based on the engine RPM. This is why I have the ECM input going to the PWM Motor Controller. The operation then becomes a variable voltage from the ECM based on Air Intake Temp, and Engine Temp to the ECM. Mark - You have the basics down correctly. Using a VOM and Tachometer, you can track the voltage (in and out) of the Motor Controller and the resulting fan speed operation. These are the tools I used to fine tune the Motor Controller for my coach. Let us know how it turns out.

Bob - you have the correct understanding. The ECM will cause the fan to go wide open as the temperature increases. The responsiveness of the ECM however I am not sure of. The Thermal Switch to me is just an operational preference that when coolant gets to 205F the fan will go wide open and keep the temp from climbing any higher. Let us know what you end up doing. Mark - let us know if this fixed the problem. You may have 12V to the valve, but the question will be does that voltage drop as the engine warms up showing that the control board is working. I hope it does work. That is a good find. I was concerned that my issue but have been the connector as well, but I confirmed by bypassing the connector that it was not.

Eric - can you expound a little more about "Neither unit comes with a control board"? The specs for the Blizzard NXT say that the unit has a built in control board that works only with the CCC-2. Are you referring to the conversion board needed to work with the older 5 button T-Stat.

Mark - my coach came with a water temp sensor that was not being used because it was faulty. It is a redundant sensor so I just decided to use that port for the thermal switch. I have attached a pic that shows the old temp sensor located on top just above the exhaust manifold. Here is a link of the motor controller I have been using. I don't exactly recall the voltage to set for cold startup but I do think it is around 8.5V to 9V coming out of the MC to the pintle valve controller. You can buy a laser tachometer and measure your fan speed to be more precise. The initial voltage is really only important on cold starts to make sure you have some cooling to use dash A/C. Once the engine starts to warm up the ECM will start to take over and adjust the speed of the fan through the MC. I ran the wires in a wire loom to the rear run bay where I mounted the MC. I have been running this setup for 2 years now and have been very pleased with the operation. Hope this helps. https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-7-80V-Motor-Controller-Switch/dp/B071NQ5G71/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1L2746B6QQUBA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.j-9fMQg81vrq0DfsMJ5hlpgzSfYN6qoIz7uwHuBkQSwFBTGwVF94FIm2ne7X6ZlPXune95rL0scAdkpxSSx6DT1Vxkxl3EHzGNotxUGGuTXGq4fdRavfEJgLD_zFrYDvEneAfh58kiaY4Utb88gXEZurdMOtuCbk3kmUemO5zicY-nQg_sZ6pfM5A2mKkR6wbv9dZnicpG_ueL29Zefu-eASAZHdojcjj9Fjn7Xmfc3oKUmHBiTNo3QKmyTFrCUoIhUc3xPrG9_qn6uIxIFCbpLOiPESxR6_YKFQjUD3MXY.0ZFtGYR1phXlcOMiJJU8sl896vhY8M3FhNhAvgmaU2A&dib_tag=se&keywords=riorand+7-70v+pwm+dc+motor+speed+controller+switch+30a&qid=1712026087&s=hi&sprefix=Riorand+7-7%2Ctools%2C185&sr=1-3

Duey - I sent you a PM

Duey - What are your current units you are replacing?

Ben - 15K Heat pump. Yes I couldn't believe it. Included shipping to my house. I have a very old DuoTherm that I figure I might as well just go ahead and replace at that price. Walmart still has this price for the Black cover. The sale I got was for the white cover which always seems to be more expensive. I guess supply vs demand. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dometic-Blizzard-NXT-Air-Conditioner-Heat-Pump-Mid-Profile-Rooftop-Multi-Zone-AC-CCC-II-control-board-15k-BTU-Black-Unit-RVs-Trailers/294591839?from=/search

Snowflakes!

I purchased the Blizzard NXT last fall for the same reason, higher CFM. They are only a couple inches taller, but it allows for larger condensing and evaporator coils, which in turn allows for higher CFM. Plus Wal-Mart had them on sale for $1,000. I haven't installed it yet, planning to do so this Spring. If I recall, my research showed that you do not need to make any modifications when replacing a Penguin II. If you get the NXT I'll be interested to find out how it goes.

I installed a pressure gauge on my ping tank so I could monitor the compressor, switch, and tank operation. Knowing the pressure of the tank will help you trouble shoot the issue. As mentioned above, it is important to drain this tank at least monthly, or more often if it is coming on frequently.

Thanks for the update Jim. Changing the belt on my 8KW is on my to do list. Fortunately I have a slide out too and based on your experience I am counting on it not be too laborious. With regards to the spark arrestor, I remove it every oil change. Easy to do and as you found out it can collect a lot of soot. Also, important to turn on generator to blow out any excess before reinstalling.

I sample every two years. Not only does this give you the current condition of the coolant, but a trend over time to determine when it is getting close to do a coolant change. JG Lubricants or Blackstone Labs are commonly used.

Mike - they still look really good, shine up the rubber and they'll look even better.

@olywrestle sent you a PM regarding your comments.

I realize I should have provided a little more detail. This is the DuoTherm Penguin II 13,500 BTU Heat Pump model 651815. I know I can buy this control board online but was hoping someone had recently changed theirs out and just had the old unit to discard. Anyway, giving it a try. Part number I was given by Dometic was 3312022.000.

This Spring I will be changing out the old REAR DuoTherm A/C with a new Penguin II. My FRONT A/C unit was installed by PO and is a Penguin II, but it has the control board conversion so it can work in conjunction with the REAR DuoTherm and 5 button Thermostat. After I install the new Penguin II, I will be upgrading to the MicroAir Thermostat that works with the Penguin II units. I will need to replace the FRONT A/C conversion board. So I am in search of anyone who might have a spare Penguin II control board they do not need or are willing to sell?

I am following. I have wondered the same thing why there are no rain gutters on our coach. Our fifth wheel had them. Has anyone installed these rain gutters? Or if not, why not?

Yes I did when I put it back on. It didn’t change the slight pull. You should try still. You never know.