Bill R

@Jim Froelich Did the turbo load test include the entire air intake system, hoses and CAC? I had a very similar issue and it turned out to be a small leak in one of the orange air intake hoses. Everything was fine until I accelerated causing the leak to be pronounced by the increased turbo pressure in the hoses, causing immediate turbo loss and black smoke (too much fuel with little intake air). If I was just cruising, the leak was not pronounced because not a lot of pressure being created by the turbo. I would check every inch of the air intake lines.

I tried a search first for my issue and did not find anything. May be my search capabilities are lacking so apologies in advance. Since purchasing this coach 2 years ago, I have had what I think is below normal low flow air output from my Atwood 8520-IV 20,000 BTU furnace. The unit operates as expected, starts up very quickly and does not cycle off until the thermostat set point is met. Just not the flow I would expect. This unit provides heat to the bathroom and bedroom of the coach. However, the front Atwood 8531-IV 30,000 BTU furnace puts out significantly more air output. The temp output for the 8520 gets to 120F with a 65F in. The front 8531 puts out 155F air with the same 65F in. Also, the exhaust gas outside has a significantly more noticeable stronger fume odor from the 8520 exhaust versus the 8531 exhaust. What I would describe as an incomplete combustion smell. I am going to list all of the troubleshooting items that I have performed below and then why I think the blower motor needs to be replaced. - I have inspected all of the inside duct work to make sure there are no obstructions. With the exception of some pieces of broken tile in the ductwork from when the tile was replaced, there are no obstructions. Also the number of vents and SF area of ventilation is well within the spec of the installation manual requirements. - I have made sure the outside combustion exhaust port is clear. Initially I did find some mud dobber nests, but they have been removed and I have scoped the exhaust tube and it looks very clean now. - I have removed the burner and it is in good shape. Also inspected the burner tube exhaust section with a scope and it is clear. - I have measured voltage to the motor. It is at whatever the battery voltage is. 12.3V plus. - I have measured the amps when the motor is running. The FLA for this motor is 4.6 Amps. I was measuring 3.45 Amps. - I have measured the RPM of the motor. It is running around 1,500 RPM. I cannot find the spec for RPM's of this motor anywhere. I have talked with the current OEM distributor, talked with Dometic tech support, and Googled and still not able to get an RPM spec. I do find that the 8531 motor spec it 2,250 RPM. My theory is that the motor has slowed down over 16 years of use causing decreased ventilation flow and will also cause a lower combustion fan flow to the burner and in turn lower flame temp and incomplete combustion. I can easily purchase the replacement motor for around $75. But before I spend the money and even the time to replace it, I want to see if anyone has had the same experience and did a motor replacement fix the issue? Also looking for thoughts from all the brilliant minds in this forum even if you haven't had this problem.

When this happened to me it was the trim piece above the storage bay door that needed to be caulked better. Rain water would flow behind the trim piece causing the metal behind to rust and then flow down the front of the storage bay door.

If you search "Weldex" under Topics you will get numerous discussions on this.

Yes no filter, but you can easily pop the lid to confirm. The source was from Cummins Quickserve.

@Steven P You should have a crankcase breather with a drain tube back to the crankcase and blowby tube that runs down and exits by the starter. @96 EVO is correct that our year 400ISL engines do not have the filters though. See image below. Number 6 points to the crankcase breather on top of the engine.

@Tom Cherry His issue is with his "new to him" '06 Windsor. His signature is not updated with the Windsor.

@welleking Sounds like your AGS (automatic generator start) is engaging. I have attached the manual for the Magnum AGS. Read through it and on page 12 it goes through how to turn the AGS off. This is the unit I have on my '06 Windsor. If you need more help, feel free to PM with your phone number. Magnum ME AGS Operator's Manual.pdf

It seems to me that the amount of soot deposit on my tailpipe has increased. I can not say for sure, but it does seem to be more lately. Then again, I admit that as I become a more seasoned owner of a Class A DP I am more sensitive and aware of things on the coach. I have one pic below of the tailpipe after I cleaned it, and then another pic of the tail pipe just about after 500 miles of driving. The exhaust is not smoking at all and is clear. BOTH the engine and generator exhaust pipes are accumulating soot at about the same rate. So I am thinking it is related to the diesel fuel. There have been two recent changes that I am wondering if they could be contributing to more soot and would like the expertise and thoughts of this forum. If it includes that I am being hyper sensitive and that this is normal, I'll accept that. 1) The first change is that I have recently been predominately filling up at smaller gas stations , i.e., Sam's, Costco, and the like. I had previously mostly been filling up at Truck Stops. 2) The second change is that I had been treating the fuel with Power Service Diesel Kleen and have switched to using Opti-Lube XPD All-in-one diesel treatment more recently. Would any of these changes cause more soot deposit? Thank you all.

Jim - might be good to call an Allison shop and talk to a senior shop person. I did that when I discovered my 3000 was 1 gallon low for possibly 10,000 miles when I bought the coach. I was told not to worry for that amount. But I can't say regarding the 3 gallons.

@welleking What is your Aladdin Jr showing as your intake manifold temp when this happens? This reading is coming straight from the ECM input of the temp sensor. So if it is faulty reading low causing your grid heater to come on then that would show on the Aladdin Jr. When my intake temp sensor failed is was showing high temp.

@jacwjames I would definitely look at the sensor Jim. A few months ago I got engine warning light and an engine derate. I fortunately noticed that the Air Intake Manifold Temp was 185F. Using a temp IR gun, I took the temp of the intake manifold and it was 130F. So I replaced the Intake Temp Sensor and it worked. Hopefully you can test the pressure and get a sensor if needed on the road.

Thanks Ivan. I think my frame structure is different. I’m going take a pic tomorrow and see if this is possible on my coach.

Ivan - I have looked over completely at my RR8S chassis and I see no place where I could block between the house frame and chassis. Do you have a picture of where you block, or is it just not doable on my 2006 Windsor?

@Dr4Film and @tmw188 Ok, now I am getting concerned about my RF18 reading this post. The PO installed it in September 2021. It has the handles in the front. The refrigerator runs about 95% of the time when on shore power or on the generator. Only runs off of the Magnum ME2012 MSW when driving down the road without the generator running. Do you think that makes a difference in whether it will have issues down the road? Should I just bite the bullet and install a small stand alone PSW?

@Irishman1 When you say you swapped the switches did you do as @Tom Cherry mentioned. swapped the gray and green wires? Did you then turn on the 120V switch, which would now be controlling the 12V gas, and did the light go on and the gas for the water heater ignite and start working? This would be the indication that the switch is good.

X2 with @cbr046. Just recently when I suspected my front Penguin II AC was low on refrigerant, I compared the Amp draw of my AC's on the remote EMS display. The rear unit was drawing about 12-13 Amps, as you would expect, but for the front unit the EMS remote showed only about a 7-8 Amp draw. Confirmed for me that the unit was possibly low on Freon. And it was. Found leak and fixed leak (4 way switching valve replacement), recharged and been running cool for the past month.

@Irishman1 Looking at the manual diagram, there is a jumper between the two switches, so if the 12V switch is working, then you should also have 12V power to the 120V switch. Likely a bad switch as @Martinvz experienced.

@jacwjames Jim, I recently had issues with those lights and found a loose ground wire nut on one of them. Since the lights are in series you might check the connections for all the lights wired together for those switches. As a side note, when I installed my Weboost antenna I used an existing RF cable going through the roof and just used these adapters for the inside booster wire connection and antenna wire connection. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D28P28J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@Irishman1 How do you know you do not have power to the switch? Did you check with a VOM? If so, were you checking for 120V or 12V? As @Martinvz mentions, the 120V switch is most likely receiving 12V as the power source. My 12V and 120V water heater switches receive 12V power from the same wire. If your setup is the same, then if your 12V switch is working then that means you should also have 12V power to the 120V switch. Check for 12V coming out of the 120V switch when it is switched on, and check making sure it is going to a good ground. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a grounding issue for the 120V relay behind the Water Heater. The ground for the relay was loose. Do you have wiring diagrams of your coach? That should confirm that the 120V switch is powered by 12V. I know it is confusing that the panel says 120V, but that is the common nomenclature to indicate that the water heater will be powered by 120V, but the 120V switch is receiving 12V that when turned on it will engage the 120V relay for the water heater. All the best.

@deputylynch Is the leak at the stem? Are you replacing the valve? Curious because I have a small occasional leak at the stem.

Looks good Jim and glad you are ok. This will be one project you will not soon forget!

I clean every oil change, but that is on an 8K unit. The spark arrestor is easily accessible from underneath.

I have just recently installed the Sony STR-DH590 Multi Channel 5.2 Receiver. Works great with the old 4-ohm surround speakers. Connected my TV through the HDMI-ARC and DVD Blu-ray. No AM, but my dash AM/FM has a switcher to the surround sound. Also able to stream from the iPhone which the DW loves. I had to do quite a bit of rearranging of all cables and wires but eventually got it done. And it really needed to be done anyway. Eliminating old tech wiring and cabling. After rearranging everything the unit fits nicely in the drivers seat overhead with plenty of breathing space. Moved the antenna switcher to the side cabinet along with DVD player. Bundled and cleaned up remaining wires and cables. I seriously doubt you can find what you are looking for but can get to a work around. If you have a subwoofer it was probably powered from the RCA. To keep a subwoofer you will most likely have to purchase a powered subwoofer. That is what I had to do. But a much better subwoofer now if you like the Boom effect. All the best.

I had the Furion wireless backup camera for my fifth wheel. Never had a problem with it. From the back of the fifth wheel to the front of my truck where the monitor/receiver was, was about 52'.