Bill R

@Jim Froelich Jim - So glad you got this resolved. I had the exact same issue happening, collapsed cobra head. Turned out a collapsed air filter was restricting air to the turbo. All this led me to find the factory installed filter size was not the spec for the coach. The factory had installed 10" diameter with 6" inlet/outlet and it should have been 11" diameter with 7" inlet/outlet. This was common on some 2006 models. You might want to check you filter size. Here is the post if you are interested.

We had a fifth wheel with a Samsung combo. It was great as that was all we could use. Now in our Windsor we have separate washer and dryer and I would not go back to combo unless I had NO choice. But this is only a personal choice. The obvious reasons are we can now wash and dry a larger load in about 2 hours with the separate units. With the combo unit it would take 3 1/2 hours and half the amount. It is all personal choice but for me having experienced both sides, I am staying on the separate washer and dryer side.

Larry - The picture you posted is exactly like my set up. See pic below of mine above the water tank. Also the next pic is the one in the wet bay. Both are Swan Industries controllers. My understanding is that the one over the holding tank "bypasses" the tank so it doesn't fill will antifreeze (Bypass switch on Panel), and the one in the wet bay changes the suction of the water pump to draw from the small 3 gallon tank in the wet bay (Winterize switch on Panel). This is my understanding.

Richard - I have never used mine, seems a bit complicated, but it is an automated winterizing system that puts RV anti-freeze automatically into the piping through a system of valves. And then will flush it out through the same valve system. There is a small 3 gallon tank that you fill up that feeds the system. Attached is a description of the system from the manual. I believe that is what @06Windsor has posted a picture of. There is another one of these valves by the water pump and small tank. 2006 Windsor Prvent-A-Freeze.pdf

@06Windsor I believe the picture is of your Prevent-A-Freeze system (if you do not have Aqua-Hot). Do you have that? Page 179 of the manual. If your pump check valve is not seating that could also be filling up your tank.

@Newcsn Maybe something like this would work. https://www.allstairtreads.com/1vicano.html?utm_source=1vicano&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pyqBhDmARIsAKd9XIPC28di_N5dysELiW_Ke0sWgYIEnbrger5AMK2iIYzSIqmPJ1YahCoaAhmIEALw_wcB

Tom - I like this idea. Sort a hybrid of my original thinking except leave the feed direct to microwave as it is after bypassing the inverter. Less work for me. Thanks FYI, There is no subpanel for this Windsor as you describe for some earlier units.

@Pudgy Camper I agree with @Ivan K that you should try and set your ride height adjustment. Maybe do both sides of the rear axle while your at it. Your manual should have the procedure on how to do this for you coach. Since you are able to make adjustments your six pack should be working. If the problem persists, then you may have to replace the ride height controller.

Thank you Steven - you have a garbage disposal? First time I have seen that. It will be a challenge. I am thinking most likely I may have to intercept the wiring for the outlets after the bedroom outlets. I know that runs in ceiling plenum of the basement to go to the driver slide outlets which is really the outlets I want on the inverter. I'll draw a diagram once I have traced the wires.

Thank you for all the comments so far. One important note I should have mentioned is that we do not boondock for long periods of time. Only 1-2 days max during travel, or weekend stay somewhere. And we have no problem firing up the generator when needed. Bill - You are so correct as you know my coach is similar to yours. Right now my approach is to put JB's in the basement that will accomplish the swap. Only 2 circuits involved. I do have the original MSW inverter. Ben - we do not use heated blankets either. Bob - great point, fortunately two A/C's on different legs. Rick - I have not traced all the wiring yet, but the approach will be to intercept the wiring downstream from the panel. Install a JB for each of the two circuits and do the swap out there. This will require fishing two wires in between the two JB's to complete the circuit. I can easily install one JB by the inverter and swap power there, the challenge will be to find the outlets wire coming from the panel and intercepting there with a JB. I hope to keep this coach for some time, but if it did affect resale, I could easily swap back to original design at the JB's. I have already done some fishing of wire on this coach. One was to remove the refrigerator circuit from GFCI inverted circuit. Another is a longer story involving the dryer (not combo so pulls more amps). I have discovered that it really is not bad running wires, lots of room in basement ceiling plenum, just locating the one you want is the challenge. A lot easier than fishing wire in house attics with no head space down exterior walls. I have more homework to do as far as mapping out where all the wiring is running, but so far I am not hearing anyone say, STOP! I am going to work on identifying how the wiring runs next week and report back what I find. Any other thoughts, please keep them coming.

I searched for this topic and did not find anything. Current Problem: I do not like using inverted power for the microwave. In fact it is our practice not to. We only use the microwave when on gen or shore power. Also, we cannot use the outlets by the bed, or the entire Driver's side of the coach when we are on inverted power. This is a nuisance for many reasons. Proposed Solution: Swap the power supply for the two circuits. So, this would mean to power all of the current non-inverted outlets from the inverter's 120V 15A power leg that is currently powering the microwave. And, power the microwave from the 120V 20A breaker that is currently supplying power to all of the non-inverted outlets. I am very adept to doing this as I have upgraded and retrofitted many houses and know 120V circuitry very well. Question: Any reason why not to do this AND any tips/advice to doing this?

Gary - No problem. Go to Browse, then Download, and you will see it on the right hand side to download. I also put a link below. When you have the time, go through all the pull down menus on this site and you will be amazed what is on here. All the best. I think there is some contact info for this exact part you are looking for on the parts list. Just hit ctrl F to search PowerGear. https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/16-parts-list/ I found this from the parts list info: https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/POWER GEAR/POWER GEAR/1401140 Very pricey, you may want to google for other options.

Gary - Have your searched the Parts List on this Forum?

Yes DuoTherm is Dometic. There should be a model number somewhere on that label.

David - all the best to you and your next journey. I hope to be one of many newer members to experience what you have.

I had a slow valve stem leak while parked for two weeks and all the air went out of one of the drive tires. I had just recently bought a Viair 12V portable compressor for just the occasion. I was sort of pumped knowing I would get to use this. After 30 minutes of running the compressor to get to 90 psi, and a few high temp shut down of the compressor from constant use, I was not that impressed with my new Viair. I now do exactly what @bobdinsmore does. Use the coach air. Fast and easy. I keep the Viair just incase I could not use coach air for some reason. I am not sure the Milwaukee compressor will give much better results if you have to completely air up a tire.

Rookie question here, as I know NOTHING about welding. If I am having an exhaust shop modify my exhaust system, requiring welding, do all of the suggestions regarding disconnecting batteries, grounds, positives, etc., apply?

I know our coaches are different, but mine is engine compartment mounted on the rear hitch. Here is a pic of your manual and location.

Jim - The scope is in the output duct looking to the discharge plenum. I removed the floor register and put the scope in going towards the furnace plenum discharge. I also scoped the duct from one floor register to the other floor register. There was no blockage as I ran the scope through the output ducts. Sorry for the confusion.

Jim - Here is a pic of the supply duct. You can see clear to the furnace discharge plenum. No restrictions. Does anyone have an Atwood 8520-IV 20,000 BTU furnace. I would love to know what your inside register discharge temperature runs.

@Tom Cherry @Oregon04Windsor I was mistaken in my comment about the Penguin II on my coach having the original board. I pulled up a picture of the board and compared it to the conversion kit board and it is in fact the conversion kit board. My apologies for the misidentification. But I can confirm that the conversion board does work.

I have a mix of the original Duo Therm in the rear and a 2019 Penguin II in the front both running on the Micro-Air 357. Unfortunately this was done by the PO and I can not tell you what exactly they did. When I bought the coach it had the 5 button CC system and I replaced it with the MA 357. What I can tell you is that the board on the Penguin II is the Penguin II board with NO retrofit kit. I know this is not much help other than it can be done. Best I can tell, and I have not done a deep dive into this, is that they "faked" out the communication cables to make it work. I did read somewhere in IRV2 that someone did just swap out with the old board. But I have noticed that one of the big differences is that the Duo Therm Board uses the 12V signal to have the switching valve to run in AC mode and the Penguin II board disengages the 12V signal to run in AC mode. Sorry I can't be of much more help other than those tidbits and I will not be able to look deeper into the communication cable hookup over the next few weeks. On another note, if you do think it is the switching valve, I was able to just recently replace a switching valve and recharge the unit and it is working great. Here is that thread.

Jim - Yes I have checked the duct work, but I have not scoped the plenum that goes under the floor. I will do that. However, I did remove the distribution box header so there would be no air restriction on the supply side, and the outlet temp still stayed at around 120F. There is in addition to the plenum under the floor three 4 inch ducts that are very short runs. Two to the bedroom and one to the bathroom. I can see in those and there are no restrictions. So I am 99% sure that this is not a distribution restriction issue.

Replaced all my PPV's two years ago with the ones from Advanced Auto as @Ivan K has mentioned. No problems with them. Also replaced all swivel with non-swivel and all push to connect with compression fittings. These were the areas where most my leaks were.

The FLA for the 8531 is 7.6 Amps. I measured that also and it was showing 5.3 Amps when running. They are different motors between the two units. Yes, checked all 4" plenums. All clear.