Bill R

@T. Argy I am interested if @ok-rver does not respond. What price were you thinking of? How many tank sensors is the set?

@Georgia Mike Mike I thought you determined from reading your manual (I read the same thing too in your manual) that for your coach the ATC light stays on continuously with key on. If you hit the ATC momentary switch the light should slowly flash. Does it do that? If so the light is doing exactly as your manual explains. If you believe the light should be off then the manual is wrong.

They sell repair tape or the sheeting itself online. Just google underbelly RV. When I replaced a section of rotted particle board in one of the basement compartments, I put in pressure treated plywood and then sprayed several heavy coats of Flex Seal on the underbelly section of the plywood. Has been holding up extremely well. This was only about a 2'x2' section in between metal supports.

@Georgia Mike There is no filter in mine. It is just open with some baffles. It is easy to open up and find out. The small line at the lower left of the pic is a drain line that goes back to the crankcase with a check valve in line. The larger line at the bottom is the crankcase blowby tube that OEM installed goes down to in between the starter and engine. My 2006 400 ISL was there and there was quite a bit of oil build up. I rerouted it to a location away from the engine with a catch can.

@gdroberson Gary - Lot's of previous discussion on this topic. As a suggestion, go to the search bar and put in "flat tow". Make sure to put the words in parenthesis as I have typed them. And then select from the drop down arrow Topics. This will bring up many threads about flat towing. Set ups, braking, etc. Hope this helps.

Gweedo - We have internet in the coach via T-Mobile Home Internet Gateway Box, $40/mo. It stays with the coach at all times so I have access to all WiFi components anytime and anywhere. Many other internet options out there and lots of YouTube videos on them. If you boondock a lot in remote places, streaming may not be the route to go. If you do not have Smart TV's, you can get an Amazon Firestick, AppleTV Stick, ROKU Stick, any of these with an HDMI connection will allow you to stream the internet to your TV.

@Scotty Hutto Scotty I am curious, is this what you had and you upgraded? If so, what did you upgrade to?

Great job @KarenG Looks wonderful! Can you share a link of the plastic single edge blade scarper you used? And how much of the De Solv-it did you end up using? Looking to make this a summer project for me.

Update to this post. Moderators - Feel free to change the title of this thread, or if you would like I could start a new thread. Great sale on ONAN products including AGS, 50% off till tomorrow if you are interested. Promocode is YEAREND50 Anyway, I have decided to change my approach. After thinking more of what I personally want for functionality is not an Automatic Generator Start, but rather a Remote Generator Start over WiFi. And neither Magnum or Onan (only Bluetooth) currently offer this option. I have found doing some research that there is a product that can be used as a remote start for the generator with some mods by adding a relay timer and then tying into the existing generator start wires that were used by the Magnum AGS. It is the Victron Cerbo GX. This product has other remote options I am interested in potentially adding. Such as monitoring remotely your electrical system, batteries, solar, temps and other functions. It can also be used in conjunction with your existing AGS. Here is a thread on this. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/generator-start-and-stop-via-web-cellphone-app-577894.html Is anyone using the Cerbo GX? What is your experience? Any thoughts on going this route.

John - Got it, maybe someone else can help. I haven't seen this but I am sure it exists. Interested as well in finding out. Hopefully someone else with experience will have some insight.

@John C Sorry John I can not help with your question. Maybe someone else can. Can you tell us where you got the drawing you attached and do you know the year, model, make of the coach for the attachment? Thanks.

OK, Splice is made and power to slide out outlets from the inverter now all good! I really liked using the WAGO Lever connectors. See pic below. Made it clean and secure when combining solid and stranded copper wires. I decided not to, maybe to some folks disagreement, install a JB. Just no real place for it, very tight, and I do not think it is necessary. Wrapped each connector with electrical tape. then wrapped all three connectors together securely with electrical tape into one bundle, and tie wrapped to other bundles. All very nice and clean. Now I am pondering if I want to disconnect the wire from the inverter going to the microwave and connect it to the wire coming from the 120V panel 20A breaker that was going to the non inverted outlets of the slide out. These are all in the same area and easily could be done. Just not sure if I am ready to lose the function of the microwave on battery power. Although I never do use it that way. And changing it would keep it from happening when DW forgets when we are not on shore power. Have I talked myself into yet?

LOL - I think ATC Event is a Monaco term. Here is another section from the manual. ATC Event = ECU senses a speed differential in drive wheels. "If a speed differential occurs in the drive wheel, the ECU enters Automatic Traction Control mode. During an ATC event, the ECU will automatically react to optimize traction and safety if the motorhome encounters a slippery road surface. Engine torque is normally reduced to limit drive wheel slip." I think I got it now, at least for the moment. 🙂

@96 EVO Ben - perhaps I have misapplied the terminology but not the purpose and function. Can you explain further so I can understand better? Below is what the manual says. Are you saying that if the switch is applied the ATC is completely off or just reduced? I really am trying to understand better what I think I understand. If that make sense. "ATC Switch: Activating the ATC switch reduces ECU control over engine torque. Momentarily pressing the ATC switch allows the ECU to increase the amount of engine torque applied to the drive wheel in an ATC event. The amount of engine torque applied to the drive wheel varies with the amount of drive wheel slip versus road speed. In an ATC event, the ECU remains active regardless of road speed or switch position. The indicator light flashes slowly when the ATC switch is activated."

Was a little confused about the ATC light until I looked at @Georgia Mike manual versus my manual. We have different model coaches but the same year. It turns out that for my model the ATC dash light will go out a few seconds after engine start and will flash quickly only during an "ATC event". However, in Mike's manual it says the light will be steady on and will flash quickly during an "ATC event". Snowflakes!! A misnomer I had was that the ATC was only active if I had the switch on. But that is not the case, the ATC is always active, and if you are in a situation like icy conditions and you have drive wheel slippage "ATC Event" and flashing ATC light, you can engage the switch to prevent further slippage. Once you are out of these conditions you should turn the switch off. @96 EVO What I read in my and Mike's manual is you are not able to turn the ATC off on our coaches.

Onan is having a 50% sale on there website. The EC-AGS+ automatic generator start is now only $207 on the Onan website. My existing magnum AGS has never worked since I bought the coach. Spent several phone calls with Magnum and they agree that it is kaput. It is original, and not a surprise as many have failed that are that old. Anyway, one option is to replace the Magnum AGS with the new version. Thing is I will also have to upgrade my Magnum remote too. Total cost for the new magnum AGS setup is around $450. Does anyone have experience with the Onan EC-AGS+ that you can provide feedback on? I have searched this forum and did not find anything with regards to performance of the Onan EC-AGS+. Reading IRV2 threads, performance is all over the place from "it is so much better than Magnum" to "it has lots of problems". At 50% off, it is tempting. Buying something on sale doesn't make it perform any better. Thank you for any comments or insights.

Well my bad. Sorry for the confusion. PO must have been wrong or good chance I misheard him during the coach turnover.

@windsorbill06 I had forgotten that the PO installed a shallow U-channel type gutter above the door that helps keep rainwater from running down the front of the door from above. I now recall he had said rainwater was getting in the door and door frame and this fixed it. See pic below. I have not seen any water ponding around the door frame when it rains either. And when I discovered the rust on the bottom of the door, there was no evidence of recent water intrusion. Thought I'd share this tidbit.

Well Rick, I am a product of the '80's music genre. What can I say, I do like bass. 🙂

Update to this post - As stated in the first part of this thread, the 120VAC outlets on the driver's side of the front slideout only work on shore/generator power. This is a nuisance when spending a day or two boondocking. After doing a lot of wire chasing and pulling down basement ceiling panels, I was able to trace the slideout supply wire back to where it can easily tie into inverter power. Hooray!! In the pic below you can see the 14/2 stranded black sheath wire which goes to the slideout outlets coming from the 120VAC distribution panel. And right next to it the 14/2 solid yellow sheath wire coming from the inverter (this is NOT the microwave circuit). Easy-Peasy, Splice and go, installing JB and using lever connectors. I have decided not to take the microwave circuit off of the inverter supply for the time being. Thank you for everyone's input. I'll post pics of the final install.

I recently did a receiver upgrade and discovered as @waterskier_1 pointed out that the OEM subwoofer would not work because the sub output of the receiver was not amplified. I decided to purchase a powered subwoofer that fit in the same cabinet as the OEM sub. More $$'s but it sounds great. If you go this route you will have to provide 120V power. This was not a problem in my situation as I had an outlet nearby mounted in the same cabinet as the sub.

I did not. I think I went back with a black silicone to match the trim. There is very little margin between the frame trim and door to get a good bead, and I am sure there is a lot of movement on the door while traveling. But I did go with a thicker bead on the bottom section of the frame trim because I was thinking that might be the area of the most water intrusion. I like Ivan's idea of drilling a few holes on the bottom. Will probably do that too.

Sorry I can not help with your question about removing the tank. But I would think about draining the tank in 10% increments to see when the leaks stops. This should tell you approximately at what height the leak is at. And then go from there.

Hey Bill - I ran into the same exact issue two months ago while readjusting the latch assembly. As you already mentioned, I removed as much rust as possible, painted the entire area with rust primer, and then sealed the entire door. Keeping the coach in covered storage and checking sealant integrity regularly will hopefully keep it good for many years to come.

Bill - does this happen only when you connect to shore power? Or does it delay also when you start the generator?