Bill R

Maybe all you need is a muffler clamp strap. See link as an example. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404624656819?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=404624656819&targetid=1645685073328&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9027188&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073328&abcId=9312979&merchantid=114153962&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NWrBhD-ARIsAFCKwWsl0Db8etmSy2bBBL4uUOGZMdG1DoFZmmQOGIBOvkXGg_xLG12LVjsaAtYQEALw_wcB

Wonder if they painted the inside?

@Joint Venture Try on your PC upper righthand corner click on your Profile Name "Joint Venture" (white down arrow), then Account Settings, Signature.

@zmotorsports Mike, you are "That Guy" in this post. Now that you are part of Monacoers we can be more formal. I'm curious, did your fix work? I have a constant pull to the left on my coach. Going to try swapping the steer tires first, all else is good that I can tell, Ride Height good, no bad brakes or suspension. Thanks.

I have used these on several occasions with good results. This is not scientific, but I use a multi-purpose BIC propane lighter. Gives plenty of heat and I can direct it to the exact spot I want. I start with the flame directly on the solder, after I see the solder melt, I then travel back and forth to get a good shrink on the wrap. Has worked great for me. Convenient, easy and fast, but not scientific.

Dave - I had the exact same problem. I replaced it with this metal gear and has been working flawlessly for the past year. Put some lube back in the case when your replace it. https://amzn.to/3UwBc5O

Here is the first of a 3 part video.

Procedure should be in your manual. Attached is the procedure for my coach, and likely for yours. Ride Height Adjustment Procedure.pdf

I also have a T-Mobile Home Internet Box but it is dedicated for my coach ($35/mo promo). It stays there all the time. Given that my coach is at covered storage when not in use I can access information on the coach from anywhere. Mainly the MicroAir T-Stat to monitor coach temp, and an inside security camera that I can also use to look at the power panel (got that idea from @Frank McElroy) The reason I like the T-Mobile box is that there is no data download limit or limit on throttling. Also the box works great while in motion. DW loves that for her computer while on the road. Been on 10 trips with the box and never out of signal I do use a WiFi repeater and weBoost with this set up.

Harry - I have thought about doing the same thing. This is what I am thinking of using. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-253256-10-Ounce-Translucent/dp/B0070S7ZXA/ref=asc_df_B0070S7ZXA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193168541182&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11847647359244802874&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027188&hvtargid=pla-308556920531&mcid=6907cbfdbd82370ab9526f3deee1e331&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgqGrBhDtARIsAM5s0_n5C0_Y99QFG8vZZGOBUOAvTfOLkdZAVVkfKCX4wGVvcY4M4Ux-oaMaAuWdEALw_wcB&th=1 Is this similar to what you used?

Ben, that will be interesting to see what happens. I am stating the obvious probably, the front unit because of the larger ducting arrangement has a higher volume of inside air going through the condenser in Heat mode (evaporator for cooling mode), thus more heat transfer and will in turn cause the outside evaporator to be cooler and go into defrost mode sooner. Also is the reason for difference at register temps. In cooling mode, my rear unit always puts out cooler air, less volume of air the reason. But they aren't broke, units run within in spec and perform a little different because of air volume differences.

Bill - I was having the same issue. Even after adjusting the latch mechanism rods to where the door opens with just a small pull on the latch. I tried doing the procedure of a "floating" striker bolt. But, I kept experiencing what you are, after some time the striker bolt kept getting loose again. I finally just set the striker bolts where they needed to be by tightening them slightly, then close and open the door a few times to set them in the correct position, and then I just firmly tightened both striker bolts. I haven't had a problem with it since. I know the theory is that these striker bolts are supposed to float, but I could not get that to happen without them becoming loose after sometime. Maybe over the years these striker bolts lose the ability to "float". My experience and maybe someone else has had better results.

Les - have you done an inspection of the chassis under the coach to see if you can identify any broken or cracked support members. Or anything that doesn't look right?

Following this thread. Last year I flushed, and replaced coolant and hoses. @Kevin Schitoskey I went with the ES Compleat EG. The Fleetguard Tech Sheet says that there is no SCA precharge requirement. Being a fairly new owner of the coach, I had NO idea you needed to add SCA's on a maintenance interval, or have a SCA filter loader. Personally, If I had know this, I would have gone with the OAT. Anyway, jumping in on this thread, for those using the ES Compleat EG, what is your experience on what the maintenance interval is for checking and adding SCA if you are not using the filter loading system.

Tom - you correctly laid out the working parameters for the MicroAir and compatibility with 5 and 10 button units. I have a Penguin II and DuoTherm running on the 5 button MicroAir Unit (EasyTouch RV357). The Penguin II has the conversion (dumbed down) board installed so it can run like this. I purchased another Penguin II to be installed in the Spring, and plan to replace the existing Penguin II conversion board with an original board. Thus, as you stated, I will need a MicroAir Unit for 10 button compatibility (EasyTouch RV350) I admit it seems several are getting different messages from MicroAir on upgrading from the RV357 to the RV350. My email from them basically states that I send in my old unit and they will send me back one that will work with the Penguin II 10 button design. Beyond that I cannot speak to what MicroAir is actually doing with the unit. Are they changing the software? Are they just swapping out boards? I can't say what they are doing, but only that the can fix my issue when I get to installing the Penguin II and it would be a minimal cost. I suspect they are starting to get a lot of requests/complaints from customers who bought the RV357 and after changing out AC units to Penguin II's the RV357 will not work. And these are expensive devices. Maybe the are wanting to keep a good marketing campaign and customer service? Who knows, but my experience is they have been very helpful and willing to provide a solution without having to purchase a new RV350 unit. Exactly what I am being told.

Ivan - In a recent email conversation I had with MicroAir there was no charge to reflash the thermostat, just shipping. I have not done it because I don't plan on installing the new AC till the Spring, but I have to believe that if there is any charge then it will definitely be way less than the cost of a new one.

@Les Hurdle Les I recommend you start a new post regarding your issue. It seems significant to me. Maybe title the post “Shifted Chassis/House Frame”

Welcome Mike - I find your youtube videos extremely helpful.

@Steven P thanks for sharing. Thinking of doing the same. My fog lights will not work with high beams. Is that the same for your coach? I am not planning on doing any off roading, but just want to light the road a bit more with the fog lights. @jacwjames did you install these as fog lights too?

Congratulations on the new coach. Very nice. My coach is in covered storage most of the time but still gets quite dirty from travel. I wash about every 2 months myself. Wash/Wax about every 6 months. Sometimes myself and sometimes pay, $350 For hand wash and wax. I don’t have any products to recommend. I think for our age coaches it really doesn’t matter that much what brand, IMHO. But not an expert. If you are looking to protect the coach while outside in the elements I would focus just as much on the bottom corners of slide outs and the seals, beltline, trim and roof maintenance. Lots of topics on this forum covering those.

@Newcsn Here is a post that helped me when measuring and replacing hoses. You can combine different length and type of hoses to keep the cost down.

I had a bad switch panel and @pwhittle sold me a new one at a very reasonable price. I sent the bad panel to @Frank McElroy so we can keep all this knowledge within this great forum. These gentlemen are my first go to for these type of issues.

Is this what you would need? https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Antenna-Display-Surveillance/dp/B0BKFP4MWX/ref=asc_df_B0BKFP4MWX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=652483943168&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=572330049275467086&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027198&hvtargid=pla-2093165131364&th=1

I replaced my map lights with these. There is even a USB plug in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BWY9DZG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Correction - I had the two Swan "Prevent-A-Freeze" 3-way valves switched around. "Bypass" switch bypasses the hot water tank. This is the one in the wet bay. "Winterize" switch changes pump suction from water holding tank to the 3 gallon antifreeze tank. Here is a link I found from Swan. This describes the system with manual valves, but it is the same concept with the automatic "Prevent-A-Freeze" system. Note that if you have an Aqua Hot you do not have the "Bypass" valve installed. https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vRD3kKVN3Zm34VVopTc-SU2hNlq8afJPXZjMrgJnHr6eQFJnbJONWGsVO1XlQfBPeOIZJK2EtDm9Vys/pub