Newcsn

@Frank McElroy Thanks for your feedback! However, is it possible my Dynasty may be one of those snowflakes? When I turn OFF the step switch the only thing it does is keep the step extended when the coach isn’t running. It will not keep the step retracted. I experimented w/ it both ways.

My solution was to unplug the motor w/ the steps retracted. Then when we got ready to head north I reached under & plugged the steps back in.

And @Tom Cherry, we employ your procedure of keeping the steps extended when we’re parked & don’t have the constructed steps.

Thanks again!

@dereeves And then, there are some of us that always love a challenge - and we replace the floor with porcelain tile!

Thanks for all the feedback! After a quick visit to the roof & then accessing the AC units from inside I learned that our front unit drain exits in front of the driver's side front tire. The mid AC unit has a dedicated drain that exits through the wet bay on the drivers side - and - our rear AC drain exits in the driver's side of the engine compartment. I also learned that on our mid AC unit the "T" in the drain line b/t the 2 drip pans was clogged. Cleared the clog & blew the line out & we're good to go again!!!

Thanks again!

17 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I've got a fuse in my front drivers side electrical bay for the step switch.  If you have one you might try pulling it and see if that works for you. 

Bingo - thank you! 

56 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

That switch will keep the steps out when you shut the door. (So the steps don't go in and out every time you open the door)

Gotcha - I knew that happened, but I was thinking there was a way to override & keep the steps closed when the door is opened. Maybe I dreamt that!

We had a very generous neighbor offer us a set of pressure-treated wooden stairs to use at the entry of our 06 Dynasty. I was under the impression that when we flip the “Step” switch on the passenger console that the steps would stay retracted when the door was opened. Am I incorrect in my assumption?

Thanks

Thank you @Frank McElroy & @Tom Cherry and everyone else who chimed in with advice - this group is amazing! After cleaning the BB & reinstalling & cycling the chassis cutoff switch a couple times I think we're functioning again! It took quite a while for the chassis batteries to get back to cranking strength. Came home from church this AM & she spun right over!

Thanks again to everyone!

2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Likely you have a big boy that needs to be cleaned.  Big boy connects the chassis batteries to the house batteries so that they can be charged while on shore power with both battery disconnect switches turned ON.  What is the chassis battery voltage?

Oh my word - the contacts were one corroded up mess inside the BB!!!! No wonder it stopped charging the chassis batteries! Cleaned, reassembled & reinstalled - now we’ll see if the chassis batteries recharge!

Thanks again!!!

Now that I’ve cleaned the BB, should the Battery Boost allow me to start the coach w/ the aid of the house batteries - they’re at 13.4v? I attempted this & it still just grunts. Chassis batteries are at 11.1v. 

2 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Assuming it is as hot to the touch…most likely energized but if not then you have another problem.

Yep - hot to the touch!

If I clean the BB & reinstall it should it then start charging the chassis batteries? Thanks

10 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Likely you have a big boy that needs to be cleaned.  Big boy connects the chassis batteries to the house batteries so that they can be charged while on shore power with both battery disconnect switches turned ON.  What is the chassis battery voltage?

I checked the voltage on both sides of the Big Boy & directly on the chassis batteries. 13.3v on the house side & 11.74v on the chassis batteries & BB.

Looks like I’ll start by taking the BB off and giving it a cleaning!

Our 06 Dynasty has been hooked to 50 AMP shore power for 30+ days since it was lasted started - chassis batteries are less than 2 years old. Attempted to start this AM and nothing more than a couple grunts. Attempted the Battery Boost and no difference - house batteries are at 13.4v.

Where would I find a diagnostics trouble tree to figure out why the chassis batteries have gone dead?

Thanks for your assistance!

I would normally climb up on the roof & check this b/f asking - but - an ankle injury prevents me from my usual gymnastics around the coach & has me planted on the couch!

On our 06 Dynasty (3 AC units), I know where the front & rear Penguin IIIs drain. However, I don't know that I've ever noticed where the middle Penguin III drains.

As I'm somewhat affixed to the couch (w/the AC running full tilt), I noticed water running off the driver's side front slide window awning. Does the middle AC unit drain on to the roof or should there be a concealed drain similar to the front & rear AC units?

Thanks for your input!

Thanks for all the input! Decided to buy a small hose clamp & see if I could tighten it around the cracked plastic gear & reinsert it in the metal bracket. Well, it appears we have a solution - and - for less than $2.00! The footrest raises & lowers with no binding and the end of the hose clamp actually acts as an additional brace against the metal housing.

As they say, “Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while!”

The footrest on our passenger captains chair stopped working. Originally I thought the motor was bad. Took it apart & found that the motor works fine - but - the plastic gear that the worm gear travels through is cracked & bound in the metal housing.

Wondering if anyone’s run across this issue & if the plastic part is available anywhere? Yes, Villa International says they can sell me the whole motor but would prefer not to drop ~$100.

Thank You!

29 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Since you do not dry camp NO… no payback!  We Snowbird in SE Fla with 900W of solar (diy for $1200) and 600AH of Lithiums (diy for $1800 2 years ago). ..$3000 total. Even dry camping in the summer for 40-50 days puts the payback at 10+ years which will likely age me out.

In the winter I’ll shut the 50A breaker off inside and use the inverter to power things  unless AC is necessary, like today plus doing laundry. Any time a high amp item is used for more than 2 minutes, I turn the 50A back on until finished as the batteries will not make it through the night unless I turn the TV/Sat receiver breaker off. Most winters this works fairly well but this winter with all the rain and overcast days I can only turn the charger off… leave the 50A on 24/7.

During the summers I’ve had mixed results with the solar being enough to not run the generator. This past summer (hottest on record) was one of the best (dispute the hype about it being hot) as we were able to park in the sun unlike most summers where we park in the shade. In 6 days I might have to run the generator 3-4 hours, mainly when using the induction or topping the batteries off at night. I did shut the TVs off which negates fast forwarding through the commercials.

 

Thanks @Ivylog you've confirmed my suspicions - not a worthwhile endeavor for us! Have a super day!

5 hours ago, mike hampton said:

I need to get the paint codes for our 02 Diplomat LE.  Does anyone in the group have a working phone number for Monaco. I called a number I found online, but it was not a good number.  I think they have went out of business, but I'm hoping to be able to get the paint codes. We have the Oak Glenn model.

Thanks

Mike Hampton

02 Dip LE

@mike hampton I just went through this process (2 weeks ago while in Ft Myers) on our 06 Dynasty - had some chips I wanted to touch up. After all my research - including having the original paint numbers - I took a bay door off that had all 3 colors and took it to an automotive paint store. They have a “infrared/laser” camera that they “scanned” each color and then mix paint accordingly. Not perfect, but I’m happy with the outcome on an 18 yr old coach!

5 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

The way I see it is you can save on 'paid' power with solar / batteries IF you don't need air conditioning.

Well, @96 EVO no AC?! That ain’t happening in on this rolling ranch! So, for this & other reasons, solar was a quizzical apparition!! Thanks

15 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Here’s my EX Industrial & Manufacturing & Facility Engineer’s analysis.  

First, determine what load comes from the interior or Inverter and what load is from the “NON INVERTER” side.  Simple way to do this….Look at the billing cycle….  Do you have a meter on the Pedestal or somewhere that you can read daily?  You have to know the KWH for a given time frame.

Next, temporarily wire in TWO KWH Meters.   You can purchase a KWH meter on Amazon.  You need to find one that is rated for 3 or so KWH….and it is 120 and NOT 220.  You have a Sub Panel.  There are two 30 Amp breakers.  Using #10 wire, you disconnect the incoming power from each 30 amp breaker.  Then you wire nut in an outlet or connect each one to the 30 Amp lines.  Then the “outputs” of each meter has to be connected to the 30 Amp breakers….  Now each side is feeding through the meter.  Now the meters are recording the KWH on each side.  Then you collect data for a specific time….at least a week.  You also collect the TOTAL KWH for your service.  

Next up….subtract…. Probably the BULK is coming from the NON INVERTER side.  IF SO….you aren’t going to save anything.  You HAVE to have an inverter that can power many of the other loads like the Aquahot electric, the AC’s or HP.  Look at it this way.  You have 50 Amps of two leg power coming in.  That is roughly 100 Amps times 120 VAC or 12,000 watts or 12 KWH.  Your inverter is only rated for 2000 watts or 2 KWH.  Right now, when you are on shore, the inverter is “passing through” that 2 KWH.  In order for Solar to WORK….you would have to have a 12,000 watt inverter.  This is TOTALLY OFF THE GRID gear.

Then….most folks put in a max of 1,000 watts of solar.  At your peak, you consume TWELVE TIMES THAT AMOUNT.  SO, additional banks of batteries.  

Bottom LINE….Solar is designed for “powering”,  via your House Bank, the Inverter.  So, that allows you to BOONDOCK.  If you had a permanent pad and lot and put in an external solar farm, assuming you have NOT used your LIFETIME max solar credit, then you would be able go use the solar and sell it back to the Utility.  Lots of subsidized installations out there.  But the BULK of your usage is probably NON INVERTER….

So, without a heavy cash outlay for a larger inverter and a larger battery bank, it is not economically feasible.  All the off grid and advertising is based on Government subsidies…..and even if you qualified, your solar farm would be limited to 1000 watts.  ODDS ARE, you probably average 5 - 6 KWH during the peak.  

NO WAY…but if you want to measure ….then do it…but remember what goes through the Main Panel is 6 times what your inverter is capable of…..

@Tom Cherry you're always a treasure trove of very practical knowledge - thank you!!! You've confirmed what I suspected - the prospect of "cost savings" via solar is virtually non-existent in our scenario! Thanks once again!

14 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

The induction cooktop and microwave are power hungry but for short periods.  Your fridge is a small load but runs 50% of the time all day.  Your 3 AC units are the real hogs.  I doubt they're even connected to the inverter, which is fed by chassis batteries which are recharged by solar.

If nothing else those panels shade your roof resulting in less air conditioning needed. 

Can you share the cost with the park owner for an external roof?

- bob

Thanks @cbr046 makes total sense! We’re not at a park where external roofs are acceptable!

15 minutes ago, Rocketman3 said:

It could but…

You need an expert on your inverter to know if there is an easy way to reduce your 120v grid usage other than flipping the pedestal breaker off. 

i have changed out my inverter to a Victron Multiplus. Let me give you a the two ways to handle that in the Victron system and maybe you can translate them to your system.

1. I can easily change the inverter from  “On” to “inverter only”. This ignores the grid power. So the solar charges the batteries and the 12v and inverter uses the power.  Manual process with all the limitations of the battery bank and inverter size.

2. With Victron system that includes a shunt, inverter and GX Device (Cerbo- master communications device), I can setup some “assistants” (internal programs) that can automatically change the inverter from “On” to “inverter only” depending on criteria. So if the loads go over _____watts (user setable) for 1 second the inverter pulls from the grid, or when the batteries get below ______% state of charge, the inverter switches on - so it charges the battery. You also have to setup the parameters to turn it back to inverter only too.  Then you set a bypass so if you start the generator when boondocking it can charge up and will not just ignore the power.  
 

I haven’t done it yet because it involves running a pair of wires between the GX device and the inverter (and that will be a bit of a chore in my rig). And we usually boondock and are not in campgrounds.

The other thing this does is it keeps the batteries not at 100% which will be a good thing for my Lithium’s.

FYI - I have 1500w of solar

Thanks @Rocketman3 I follow your thought process & the equipment you use! However, the cost of 1500w of solar, Victron system & the necessary devices probably would have a real long breakeven period - and given we’re not boondockers, it would not be an advantage to us there either. 

We're hooked to 50 AMP service for 5-6 months in SWFL in our 06 Dynasty (8 house batteries). Was wondering if it made any sense to increase the solar on the roof of the coach (obviously lots of sun down here to soak up) & if doing so would offset a portion of our monthly electric bill?

My guess is that the house batteries (12v side) impact our electric bill minimally. I would think the fridge, induction cooktop, microwave & roof AC units (3) are the real hogs.

It appears most folks increase their solar because their boondockers. We very seldom boondock - except for an occasional Harvest Host.

Thanks for your input!

@Jetjockey Thanks for your replies & your thoroughness explaining the proper process of repairing, cleaning & recharging! It's been a couple decades or more since being a GM Master Tech & having to mess with automotive AC systems. So good to have a refresher!!!!

I have no problem with the replacement of the necessary components - that will be a bit like riding a bike. I will need to locate someone that can clean, pull down & recharge the system.

The journey continues!

Thanks again!

On 2/15/2024 at 6:33 AM, Dr4Film said:

My Data Card states that the engine AC Compressor is a Unicla model UP-150 serial#302331

I found an Internet reference that the Unicla UP-150 is the same as the Sanden SD7H15. I have not verified that information though.

The expansion valve is this one found on eBay I believe. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292153547690

However, there are many of the same type available for a lot less money. Whether they are the same quality or not I don't know. Just do an Internet search.

I haven''t been able to nail down the part number for the dryer. But they seem to be fairly standard.

I would think that when they evacuate the system it may remove any left over debris, not sure. I would ask the AC tech that will be replacing the parts. I am sure that their AC equipment is capable of flushing the system if needed.

BTW, when I needed a complete AC system for my 02 Windsor, I very nice customer service tech from ACParts.com in Texas helped me a lot in getting the correct parts, etc. I had a new compressor, expansion valve and dryer installed at a shop in LA when I had the new Samsung fridge installed back in 2012.

@Dr4Film Ditto - except for the serial number - my Data Card says Unicla UP-150. However, my compressor has a dual v-belt pulley not a serpentine. I believe I’ve located the Sanden SD7H15 series compressor w/ the appropriate pulley. Now I’ll have to figure out the dryer & expansion valve.

@Cevin Waffle Mine is a side radiator Dynasty w/ a separate v-belt for the AC compressor (thankfully). We may just use the rooftop AC until we get home and deal with it then.

@Dr4Film  & @vito.a Thanks for the feedback! Here’s hoping we don’t have metal in the system! I’ll be pulling the build sheet out in the next couple days & will definitely post part numbers as soon as I get them nailed down! Thanks again!

Came back from a 40 mile run this morning to smoke billowing out of the engine compartment. Looks like our AC compressor on our 2006 Dynasty w/ a 400 ISL has bit the dust - seized & burnt the belt off. I can’t find a part number on it anywhere, looked in the front cowling area and could not find a manufacture’s label & can’t seem to locate much info after doing several internet searches.

Also, what other components should I expect to replace when the compressor seizes? Orifice tubes (are there more than one), accumulator/drier, etc.

Thanks for passing along any insights!

This group is amazing - thanks so much for the feedback/suggestions on how to deal w/ our occasionally stinky situation!

We installed a new Lippert 360 Siphon Vent this summer. And, I'm having a hard time getting my head around the flush valve seal leaking - the toilet bowl never loses water & the smell is a very occasional occurrence (there seems to be no correlation to open windows or vent fans).

Just for grins (and b/c our coach is 18 yrs old & they're so reasonable), I'm going to replace all 3 air admittance valves. We're also going to start using the Blue Dawn Platinum in the tanks. Hopefully this resolves it!

Thanks again!