Old Dog

Only 4 - 3 way valves in the tag axle valve block, at least on the 2007 and yes they are difficult to get to but can be done. I would make share you have 4 new valves ready and do all of them, roughly (2 way valves)$55.00 each. Not much more effort and if original need it anyway. You can do the job without the special removal tool, Vise Grips work just as well if you are replacing them. Don't mix up the wires or soleniods if you leave them connected, they are color coded. I'm 6'2" 220 lbs and 61 and I've done both the front & rear, long arms are a BIG advantage.. Front is much easier to reach. Hope this helps Talk to the guys at Valid, super friendly and helpful. Could be a stuck valve, bad soleniod, wire or controller issue. They will walk you through troubleshooting. Also a very good service manual online.

Does $500 sound reasonable? Sent you a pm

This appears to be repost but as previously stated I will take it. PM for details please

I'll take it Does $500 sound reasonable?

They also VERY heavy.

Mine is in the driver side fuel bay.

Download the Service manual, readily available online and very detailed. Valid is also very helpful the tech info.

Cummins/Holset put different waste gates on based on the customers specs for full rated hp/torque. Waste gates were frequently used to de-rate engines to protect transmissions. Dodge did it for their auto transmissions on the 5.9L. You can go higher but will most likely damage something else. First step is to id what it should be, chances are it's 18 for a reason if everything is functioning correctly.

It's an easy drive, very boring going across eastern WA. Couple of passes in ID that reduce your speed a little but not bad. Certainly nothing that warrants diverting to 84. Enjoy

Looks like an oil pressure sending unit most likely for a oil psi guarge and/or the ecm.

The switches often go bad from moisture, there is no water seperator in the small compressor circuit. I installed a 1/4" auto drain seperator first thing off the compressor and haven't had a problem in 4 years. Something to think about.

nester. My coach the compressor fuse is a Buss 20amp auto reset.

Pulling the fan knob down just disengages the motor from the gear box, does nothing to prevent the motor from starting. I'd hate to think how many hours you might spend trying to track down your problem and whether it would be worth it. Good luck.

Great write up, thx for the effort. Will make things easier for the next person going down that road.

Haven't looked at the clutch yet but it must of been locked even though the ac was off. Not sure way that happened.

The problem turned out to be a seized AC Compressor. Blown my mind that a tiny compressor auxiliary drive could stall the starting system. Wasn't able to overcome the resistance until I installed 4/0 cable directly to the starter then the belt finely slipped. Shows how undersized the stock wiring is. Now my coach turns over great with just the starting batteries, no need to cross connect the house batteries.

Great job,, that has been on my list for the last 2 years. Your coach is almost identical to mine, could you share the electric side of the install such as wire routing and power sources? Also what you're considering for underneath. Thx Don

Here6 a couple photos of the Sony unit. Hope this helps.

Not the same by any means but in my rig the Bose surround sound system is connected to a combo am/fm/cd/DVD player in the AV cabinet. Thats the way it came from the factory. It was a "home" system completely separate from the dash "auto" system. Are there any removable panels the speaker wires could of been stuffed into? Can't believe some one would cut them. Also the wiring drawings have the AV system in the prints. Hope this helps.

If it continues after changing overnight I'll just make up cables straight to the starter from the battery and bypass the 6 connections and 3 cable on the pos and neg sides until I have time to check every cable.

As I wrote in the opening post, I have cleaned and inspected every connection from the battery terminals to the starter. Both pos & neg including the one I couldn't get to the frist time, the pos battery connector block outside the box. Yes, the 13.4v is charging voltage. Have to rig up a jumper to test voltage at the starter when cracking since I'm by myself. Since all the connections look good a bad cable is possible but that doesn't seem like a common failure. This coach has never seen salt or de-icer and has no corrosion to the undercarriage.

Just installed new starting batteries (3 - Interstate Group 31HD lead acid), replaced original starter and cleaned/inspected all cables & connections including: Neg - Both sides of the connector blocks at the battery box. All battery connections including jumpers, jumper from starter to frame and from frame to battery box connector block. Pos - All connections inside battery box including connector block and battery jumpers, connections to/from chassis battery switch, and connection at starter. Couldn't get to the outside of the battery box connector block. None of the connections were corroded or dirty, certainly not bad enough to cause this sluggish turning over. Batteries have 13.5v at pos to ground and 13.4v at starter pos connection to ground. The engine turns over too slow to start for approx 5-7 seconds then stops just like low or dead batteries. Doesn't matter if I use battery boost to interconnect house/chassis or not. I've had the block htr on all day and it's approximately 70 degrees. I'm at a loss and and suggestions or assistance would be appreciated.

Not sure how yours is set up but mine leaked between thr piano hinge and the top edge of the opening and a small bead of caulking fixed it.

I use one of these, also much more versatile.

If you want to go big and enjoy a little hiking I would recommend Yellowstone, Zion, and Arches on the way down. Minimum 5 days each, so much to see.