Old Dog

Mine entry door has the same problem, no idea why. I plan to address it when I open up the door to adjust the latch mechanism. Not even sure how until I look closer. There is so much bunched up in the upper forward corner that I may have to remove some.

A water leak is more a process of elimination. It could be traveling several feet from actual entery point to where you see it come out. The three I dealt with took 2-3 attempts before I finally got them corrected. Frustrating but very important to correct. Good luck.

Steele Rubber Products has a large assortment of window and rv gaskets. Good luck

Hopefully the drip kits are available now, sold out everywhere last spring (2021).

I also have an AHE-100 and have never had to use the diesel mode for hot water in 4 years. We take regular showers every day back to back even with inlet water temps in the 30's-40's. It takes 2-3 hours to come up to temp. These units when operating properly are very capable. I use the diesel mode so infrequently I forget about it.

It's amazing how many things don't work from the factory. We bought our rig in 2016 and have fixed at least a dozen items that were incorrect from the factory. The 2 previous owners lived with the issues or were unable to get them fixed. One issue is so poorly designed that it will never work. From what I've heard from owners it's even worse with new rigs since the industry melt down in 2008.

Little known fact: All the locks on those types of compartments use the same key on every rv unless someone changed the factory installed lock. Even worse on travel trailers, a CH741 key will open them ALL on any trailer. Saves time for the rv salesperson apparently.

Trimark sells the core removal tool and will sell locks to match the key or reuse the existing core . Not cheap but can be done, just depends on how much you want to spend to have the same key.

Most of them are made by Trimark, go to Trimarkcorp.com. and you should be able to find a match. Be careful because some come as right and left then you have the issue of matching the lock core to the existing key (I had three different keys when I bought my coach). Hope this helps

Sounds more like a plug issue where one pin supplies power to the entire area. Do you have elec prints to see what the common denominator is.

An often overlooked source of water in the air system is the auxiliary 12v air compress. The factory system has no dryer or seperator installed and in my case with air leveling the compressor runs a couple times a day for 30-60 seconds. After going through pressure switch every 6 months I installed an air seperator with an auto drain and haven't had to replace another switch in 3 years. Also much easy then trying to get get to the aux tank drain. Doesn't affect the brake side of the air system. Hope this helps.

Use a sampling pump, has a small hose that goes down the dip stick tube. As far as Labs, there are hundreds. Large oil distributors often sell kits that are prepaid and include shipping envelopes. Auto parts store may even offer the service? Cost can run from $15-$30.00. I got a case of 50 kits through an Amsoil Distributor for like $300.00. I test everything and it extends your change intervals a lot. Also can catch problems before catastrophic failure.

If you're not logging very many hours/miles then I would run it longer. If you're concerned have a lab take a look at a sample. Would be an expensive job just because the fluid is 4 years old. These synthetic fliuds are very good. Just my 2 cents.

My passenger seat recline screw started gobbling up the Cashion material. Had to dig it all then worked fine. Wife weighs 110 lbs, no idea how that was possible. Spoke to the guy who runs the company that made the seats about a parts list and they don't have that info. He said they use what ever is available from the automotive market at the time to fill the orders as they get them. No blue prints or nothing. If something does fail then you'll have to pull it out and hope you can find a suitable replacement or exchange motors for a less vital function. Hope this helps

I got the heater hose at Zoro, 5/8" I think. The whole run isn't hose, it's pipe over the bays which cuts down on cost. I bought a 100' roll and used close to 75'-80'. The engine hoses I just searched the internet for. Hope this helps, Don I also used the hose change out as a good opportunity to drain and flush (with Distilled water) the engine and agua hot coolant and filled everything with 50/50. Wasn't exactly cheap,, used Cummins lifetime Engine Coolant, but again never have to worry about it. I'm a mechanic and even I underestimated the amount of work these things take to ensure reliable and continued operation. If you have to pay the labor it gets outrages real quick.

Don't forget rubber, all your hoses if original are 20 years old. I went through all the engine coolant hoses, including dash heater and aquahot. Also intercooler boots. upgraded to silicon. A little more expensive but cheap insurance and never worry about it again. A blown hose can lead to a bad day real quick. Pretty easy to find even the pre-bent pieces.

Frist thing I would check is the programing set up. Is the correct video feed selected etc. Many times a button get pushed accidently. Not familiar with your setup or whether it's a standard Alladdan. Start with the simple stuff first.

I have a 2007 Executive and in my owners manual the actual ride height dimension wasn't included. I went back to the 2006 owners manual for the procedure and actual height dimension. I doubt the measurement changed over that time frame. 2006 seems to be the last year that info is available in the owners manual, no idea why. The 2006 manual can be found on the Monaco website and contains a lot of useful info. Subject has been discussed extensively on this forum as well. Hope this helps, Don

Be careful about mounting the compressor in an enclosed space, they generate a lot of heat.

P/N for 3/8" NPT Fiter is SAF300-N03BD-MEP, 1/4" Unit is SAF200. They can be ordered with a bunch of different configurations i.e auto drain, metal bowl etc which is what the 2rd and 3rd set of numbers indicate. Units are very compact and readily available from Amazon. Hope this helps

I can dig out a pn tomorrow. Not too hard to find. I searched by npt size (either 1/4" or 3/8", most are 1/4" but I up sized my compressor and line to the tank to 3/8") filter seperator then you have to id one that has the auto drain that way you're not crawling under all the time. The water seperator is real important in high humidity areas if parked for long periods.

I installed an auto draining water/sediment filter after the compress check valve. Cost about $45.00 plus a couple npt to push lock air fittings and should protect everything in the system.