Old Dog

Any chance you can post a photo of your guages?

If you're working with the original hose, its 27 years old. Crimping a new fitting on is just kicking the can down the road. Just my .02 worth.

Never had a problem getting it delivered, just like filling a tank at a home.

To my knowledge only the toilet/s and the flushing line are the only two things going into that tank

I had a fluorescent light ballast start to go and it affected several inteeitec circuits in the rear of my coach. Only had the problems when that light was on.. Converted it to led and no more issues. This prompted me to replace them all. Problems in one circuit can cause other issues.

Another way of heating the interior: Portable electric heaters. Most of the parks I stay at don't meter electric so we use anywhere from 1-3 1500 watt little portable heaters in conjunction with a factory installed base board heater in the kitchen. It's been good to temps down to 16 degrees. Saves on diesel, so much so that I had not run the aquahot for 2 years then when I did need it the nozzle was clogged. Running it every 2-3 months has solved that issue. I also use up to 3 Golden Rods in the basement area to argument the small aquahot heater. They only time we use the diesel mode is test/maintenance runs. Of course you have to be mindful of the potential fire hazards and distribute the electrical load.

Sounds just like playing a harmonica and I suspect it's a similar situation. You only have one ride height valve in the front. The air system for the front is pretty basic, once you place the system in travel mode it energizes a solenoid to supply air to the ride height valve which meters air in/out of the front bags to maintain height. When you were shifting from level to ride height was the coach going down, i.e. exhausting? If so try plugging the exhaust port hose on the ride height valve. Is the end of the exhaust hose flattened or squeezed together. You may also try removing the exhaust hose. Only 2 sources I can think of and you've already replaced or serviced both. Not sure this helps.

Valid has a very good trouble shooting manual on the web, or at least they did and they are very helpful over the phone. Many of the control pad issues are tied to a leaky front driver window at least in my case with the exec. The ride height valves aren't the best design either, I once had to go through 3 new ones to find one that worked correctly and these were new out of the box.

Sorry-Golden Rods, they were designed for cool damp areas to prevent mold. They work great for our basement areas because they don't get hot enough to catch anything on fire and come in various lengths. All you need is some place to plug them in. https://www.amazon.com/GoldenRod-Original-Dehumidifier-12-Inch-725721/dp/B00D1WYXR0/ref=asc_df_B00D1WYXR0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312361760328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2015083893816203902&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032625&hvtargid=pla-435493624730&psc=1

I've done 16 degrees with no issues. If everything works like it should and it's sealed up you should be good to mid-teens. I think I would augment the basement htr if you get to single digits or less. I use glow rods. Don't forget your block heater, engine will start much easier.

I will, thx

I just wish the computer program was more available. Would nice to back up and make changes without having to drive hundreds of miles out of my way for the few who still have the ability to access the program. Even RV dealers that use to sell Monaco's don't have access to it.

Standard adjustment my not fix your problem if it opens from one side and not the other. I would study the download info to determine if the linkages are correctly assembled. Looking at the photo I would guess that a short cut was taken affecting the outside handle linkage. Take your time to trace every piece and fully understand the function and relationship. It looks complicated at first glance but it's just linkages and levers. Definitely focus on the wired section and see how it interacts with the outside hande. Hope this helps.

Going series/parallel (if you have an even number of panels) from panels to controller will allow for smaller conductor or longer distances but you may want to use this opportunity to get the controller much closer to the batteries. Most factory installed systems are restricted in efficiency by this error.

REV website still had some so I'm going that option, thx to all.

Appreciate the assist, I'll call REV with the part name/number and see it they have any. If not I now have another option with the 3D file. Thx

Appreciate the 3D Print option, is the "make your own replacement" the only option?

Appreciate the reply however this is about the STEP WELL COVER, not the steps.

Looking for a part number/source of supply for the plastic support blocks that support the step cover when extended. Contacted Lippert and they sent me a blue print for the step cover assembly but it does not show this part anywhere and the Rep couldn't find it. Internet search has not turned up anything either. Don't know how helpful REV would be and I don't have a clue where else to get a replacement. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'd like some more info on the gear reduction starter, specifically for a ISX Cummins if it's not too much trouble. Don't have a lot of faith in the stock one given how hard it has to work to turn this beast over. Thx Never mind, thx for the link

The 2 Group 31 batteries are hardy up to the task if you have the bigger 525hp Cummins. I installed a 3rd one (really tight fit) and that helped. Are you familiar with the Battery Boost switch function? It ties together both house and starting battery banks, there is a good description in the owners manual. It will eliminate the problem assuming your Big Boy Relay is working correctly. Hope this helps

I've seen 35 and40 psi numbers but no idea if that is across all year and model tag axle rigs. Just don't go too high without weighing because increasing the tag weight (higher air pressure) increases the load on the front axle and that's the closest to maxing out. Hope this helps

I said this in an earlier post, some of the fuel that goes to the engine is returned to the tank after cooling critical components. Feel how hot your diesel tank is after a 2-3 hrs run in temps 100+. I wouldn't run your tank down below half in hot weather. It's no different then letting your engine idle for 5-10 minutes to let your turbo cool down. An ounce of prevention.

It's also a good idea to either make or buy a fuel pressure guage and test/adjust the fuel pressure. The pressure drops off over time. Should be 45 psi and it's an easy adjustment if you have it a part to change the nozzle. Since you just got the coach I would also do a chambustion chamber cleaning, clean and check the electrode gap. Service manuals are readily available on the web.

I've had several slideout hydraulic hoses that were leaking at the crimped fittings. These are a Parker -4 (1/4") hose (superceded by newer hose) and the fittings are readily available along with portable crimping machines that cost $100.00 rental. So far I've had to redo 5 and have another one that's started to leak. All the hoses I've done to date have extra hose coiled up in the overhead of the bays. In my case above the water tank and fuel tank. This allows plenty of slack to get the hose end out from under the coach and get the crimper on. I simply use a cut off wheel to remove the old fitting, thoroughly claim the inside to remove any debris and then crimp the new -4 fitting on. I've had to redo just one. It's much easier then pulling a new hose. Can't say much good about how HWH put there hoses together. I've worked with hydraulic hoses for years and never seen so many crimp failures. If anyone needs the hose and fitting info let me know and I'll dig it out.