Old Dog

Had weird stuff start happening on different Intellitec switch panels and it was all caused by a faulty ballast in a hall light. Promptly changed them all over to LED.

My 2007 Exec Matterhorn Lansdowne Il w/ ISX had a base price of $467,915.00, addition options totaling $36,709 and an MSRP after options of $505,705.00 which included $1,125.00 delivery charge.

The cover pops off revealing 2 screws to remove the switch. Don't disconnect wires until you have the new switch. The switch comes in bright white and beige, and are inexpensive and readily available. Hope this helps.

I spent 2 hours looking for some definitive spec from Cummins and struck out. A lot of the discussions revolved around piston material, i.e. aluminum, steel, or hybrid steel crown aluminum skirt. Aluminum melts at 1,221 degrees but pistons don't see a continuous temperatures due to the combustion cycle. My ISC engine uses a hybrid piston, not sure about smaller 400hp engines. The 5.9 & 6.7 liter run Aluminum. Given the lack of published info from Cummins I would expect a range of answers from Reps. Has anyone found a published number or spoken with someone from Cummins?

What does Cummins quote as there max exhaust or cylinder temps?

Where did you put your thermal probe, in the manifold or turbo outlet? If those are post turbo temps then I would be very concerned, not so much for manifold temps but they are high. Was the thermal couple matched to the gauge to insure both were operating in the correct voltage range? Have you confirmed the gauge reading with an infrared thermometer? I would also check you boost hose clamps and make sure not losing some of the boost charge which will also give you higher temps. With that said some of those temps are high, anything over 1200 for anything over brief situations could result in burnt valves. ECMs with egt monitoring will clip power at 1200. What precentage of throttle is required to hit 1300 when accelerating? I don't have a EGT guage on this engine yet so I have nothing to compare too but working on that one.

Got to agree with Vito, not a real significant improvement. It helped a little but nothing like the Company claimed it would.

If it had solar from the factory then it should be set up with the Aladdin. Trace the wires going from the old charge controller to the batteries to find the Aladdin sensors. On my coach everything was located above the bay removable overhead panel between the frame rails. I'm sure it varies from model to model. The amperage induction coils are easy to find, the voltage pickups should be wired to the old charge controller. Hope this helps.

The Aladdin system for solar has a dedicated control unit and sensors, induction coils that you'd have to source then wire it all up. Would not be an easy job. If you are close to an rv junk yard that would help. If your rv didn't have the stock 100 watt panel then I doubt they installed any of the Aladdin solar stuff. All that stuff was located in the bay roof under the frig, that's where they routed the wires from the panel down from the roof. Someone just posted a list of stuff for sale and there was some Aladdin parts on the list, check the classifieds, maybe you'll get lucky. When I upgraded the stock 100 watt solar all I had to do was extend the wiring for the sensor since I relocated the stock charge controller much closer to the batteries. I will admit it is nice having the monitoring function.

Did they use that type of mixing valves in Monaco's? Mine isn't and with the flow so restricted in these systems there doesn't seem to be much of a need.

Without taking the mixing valve apart (not difficult, hard part is figuring out who made it and what model then Google for you tube video) the only other way is to turn off the hot water to the mixing valve at the manifold then disconnect the hot water line from the rear of the mixing valve then turn the water back on. The problem is how/where to deal with the water which depends on each individual install. In most cases you won't have enough PEX hose to devert the water into a bucket and run it long enough to get hot water. If by some fluke you have enough tubing then gently bend the tubing (do not kink it) into a bucket and you be should get hot water within 10-20 seconds. Two person job holding the hose/bucket and turning on the valve. Personally I would research how to change out a couple different kinds mixing valve cores and go for replacing the mixing valve core. Once you get the core out it's easy to match a replacement at the local hardware store. If you're still not comfortable a decent plumbing could have it done in 30-60 minutes. If had to replace the shower and kitchen faucet and need to do at least one and possible 2 bathroom sink faucets. Not using them for long periods is as bad as using the every 10 minutes and any rubber over 10 years old is operating on borrowed time.

Mixing valve issue?

If it only trips at your storage location I would think that would be the direction to look. It doesn't experience this issue when plugged in at your horse, what about other locations? If it's only happening at your storage location it may be a neutral or bonding issue at the storage facility. I can't count the number of problems I've seen at rv parks. I only know enough on the subject to be dangerous but I can troubleshoot, hope this helps.

It's all coming back to me, been 5 years since I looked at mine. My memory is more of a sieve these days.

Another possibility is the filter mfg might of changed the filter medium and how restrictive it is. Have you compared specs on the old &new style.

If it's a new filter why would there be any restriction?

Just do a Google search using Helotrope 45d Solar Charge Controller Manual, thats how I found it. If you can't find it, I'm pretty sure the adjustment potentiometers are labeled. If these fail I can't see them failing in a overcharge state, they usually have no output.

If I remember correctly the output is adjustable. Download the manual and see if it will adjust before giving up on it. I talked with someone who was involved with designing them and by all accounts they are pretty reliable. The original setup wasn't meant to do anything beyond a trickle charge. Conductors were to small, too long and only a 100 watt panel.

Be careful substituting grade 5 & 8 bolts unless you understand what you're doing. This can lead to real problems. Grade 5 bolts are maluable where as grade 8 are more brittle, there are other qualities as well that factor into the selection. They are, or should be selected for specific applications. I would guess looking at the photos that oxidation, i.e. rust played a factor but given a potential recall it may simply be selecting the cheaper rather appropriate fastener. There's plenty of info on fasteren available, enough to give you a headache. I would definitely call the company, given the liability issues they my fix the unit and perform a rebuild of the entire thing. Hope this helps

If your sat dish is for Dish and not Direct TV you should be good to go. Just need Dish to authorize your box.

Not sure if this has already been addressed but and kind of off topic but... the fuel from the tank also cools the ECM, at least on my ISX 525hp. In those cases you should keep the tank above half when running in high ambient temps or heavy loads. If you've ever fueled up when temps are a 100+ the fuel tank and fuel gets HOT from the return fuel which is then used to "cool" the ecm. Wouldn't be surprised if that has caused a few ecm failures since electronics don't like temps over 120 degrees. More fuel, cooler fuel temps and better cooling. Food for thought. High temps also killed my TV mounted in the front cabinets, that front cap area has no insulation and gets super hot. The locals in AZ won't store televisions in the garage because the temps in the summer kill them.

Someone posted the "acceptable" leak down rates a couple months ago, both Monaco and I think DOT and it was measured in hours, not days. My Valid Air Leveling system has a small automatic auxiliary air compressor and small tank, the brain wakes up every 2 hours and re-levels. The compressor runs as needed. I could never imagine going 10 days. If I'm on un-level ground my compressor runs every cycle for 1-2 minutes. A 40 degree temperature change would effect level when parked on uneven ground with some air bags compressed and others extended. I've swept my system using a sonic leak detector and soap and haven't found any leaks and my 3 different gauges all hold but I know it wouldn't last 10 days. Half the coach's I see aren't anywhere close to level so I suspect a good many don't function correctly.

EPA and States have been cracking down on this stuff hard. They are even using Social Media to identify modified engines. Guy in New Jersey had to scrap his truck because he didn't have the parts to return it to stock. Couldn't license it or sell it. Be careful.

The suspense is killing me, we need photos to confirm the ugliness.

Paul, Thanks for offering your services, I'm going to be traveling to Kings Bay from the west coast this winter and my look you up. Can you please pm your business contact info. As to the awning control circuits I could see how reversing the signal polarity would give you the in/out on the bigger awning but with only the one conductor in my case I don't see how it would or could include separate control of the door awning. When I traced it out it looked like No one knew what to do and left the wiring floating rather then connect to the Girad Controller. I have another issue with 1 switch panel but its simple programing. Most importantly is getting a back up of the programing. Without that it's a time consuming process. Look forward to hearing form you. Don