Old Dog

I have a similar switch panel behind and above the drives set that operates in conjunction with a module behind the TV. If yours is wired the same as mine it never worked from the factory because the module wasn't wired to the awnings correctly. I have 1 purple wire going from the module to the lower sealed area of the AV cabinet (where the Magnum Inverter Remote panel is mounted) where the controller for the box awning is located and nothing going to the door awning. The purple wire. was never connected to anything and that single conductor can't do everything i.e extend, pause, retract 2 sperate awnings. I have schematics for the Executive/Signature and it has nothing on how the module is suppose to be wired to box or door awnings. Based on my understanding of the intellitec system I would have to run 4 more conductors and properly program the module (don't see how it would of been programed correctly when it wasn't wired right). I resigned my self to using the awning switches above the entry door or the remote for the box awning. I'm the third owner of this coach and half the stuff I've fixed has been stuff that didn't work from the factory. I am curious who you got to do your programing. I only know of the outfit out of Ohio. They had been making trips to Florida every winter but stopped doing that a couple years ago when a hurricane trashed there 5th Wheel. Hope this helps

In your write up I didn't see any mention of finding and fixing the leak/s. You could be doing this again in as little as 2 weeks.

This one needs a photo, please.

Call them, they are very helpful.

It only takes 10 minutes to change one, not difficult. Either kill power to circuit or don't touch the wires together or you'll have to go fuse hunting.

Another consideration is free roof space, according to the install documentation it needs a 64" diameter clear area to operate. The biggest free area I had was 54" without MAJOR mods. Then you have to figure out how to anchor it properly so it isn't torn off in high winds. Not an easy retro fit.

After checking the condition of the rubber cap plug and drain seal it they aren't leaking Lucas Oil Co. makes a hub oil that stops leaks, 32oz bottle is p/n 10088. It works and I wouldn't use anything else. I think I went through 2- 2 1/2 bottles when I changed my oil. When you fill it you have let it sit and recheck it as it takes a little while to flow and fill all the voids. Hope this helps

Sometimes the electronics lock up and just need a reset. Read somewhere 85% of problems can be corrected with a reboot. I will certainly remember this trick. Please keep us posted if the problem re-emerges.

Valid has a real good service/trouble shooting manual on the web, its helped me out. There is a front and back module and obviously I would check the data cable connectors (2 if memory is correct) to the rear box, it has a yellow valid sticker on it. Mine is underneath the coach just ahead of the drive axle up high. No telling where yours might be. You can also find it by following the solenoid manifold wires back since they all come from that unit. Hope this helps.

Got to agree with that, they aren't hard to troubleshoot (or service for that matter) with the service manual, some basic hand tools, an inexpensive meter and fuel guage. Service manual is available online. Most issues are fuel related from lack of use. I only run mine 2-3 times a year just for PM.

Thx for the heads up on the Danfoss nozzles, will avoid those.

Having had a frig fire, DO NOT use it again. I was lucky to catch it right away so there was little damage but it was burning like a blow torch. Those refrigerators have filled rv bone yards with burnt down rv's. If you ever have a fire the appropriate extinguishing agent for ammonia is water. A aftermarket company makes a add controller that prevents these fires.

You can get the nozzles from any furnace/boiler service or supply source. Just need to match the flow rate. Aquahot doesn't make anything that is readily available from other sources, they just buy what they need.

Most of the job is dictated by the location of the hose reel, some are relatively easy to get to and others aren't so fun. If you have the same type as mine the the hose and spool come as a unit and the unit is not cheap. If you can get to it, it's not hard the change out.

Once you compare all the specs, Donaldson filters are about the best on the market, I would rate Fleetguard second but more expensive. The difficult part is finding certain filters, not all are porduced by the major mfgs. A web site called "Bob is the oil guy" has a load of info on oils and filters. He knows what he's talking about. It's worth a visit if you're concerned about these things.

Glad you posted the fix, mine is also stripped and you saved me a lot of time running down a replacement. Judging by some of the comments, I don't think everyone understands how it's designed to seal.

Is it a Dometic Seagate? What is it doing/not doing? Mine wouldn't flush and just needed a new $5 flush/fill switch. Sometimes it the simple things.

Racor is certainly not the only source but most likely the most expensive.

Hope this helps

A replacement for my RACOR Primary w/ filter S3226P is a Baldwin BF1346-0. Not sue if you have the same Racor unit because of the different size engines. Hope this helps.

Most of the major filter mfg web sites have a cross reference ability. I have found other brand filters for the Racor Primary that has the clear bowl and water sensor. Don't have access to the actual number right now. Sorry

When I put out the money for a new set, all I had to do to justify the expense is to imagine having a blow out at 65mph. Made the decision much easier.

Not anymore expense then what you've done already and works better.

You call a propane service company. They come to you with a propane truck and fill your tank as you stand and watch. They charge by the pound. A full tank should last at least 3-4 weeks of constant propane mode use.

I must be missing something. Way don't you just refill your propane tank?