RBRODDER

Yes, the back plug is a 9 pin J1939 and the front is a 6 pin J1708. The Scangauge has three settings, one each for the 1708, 1939 plugs and the 3rd pulls up as "both", I tried to set it to the 1708 up front and it defaults to the both setting. That doesn't sound good! I plugged into the rear connector and it picked up everything...

Well dang it!...My rig only has one connector under the column area and it is labeled "Engine Diagnostic". It does have grease smeared in it. I will have to clean it up and see if that helps me get more signals than voltage.

Thanks Ivan, I will look again ynder the dash and see if there is a secondary connector that I missed...will update this afternoon. Thanks Mike, I will look at the connectors and verify cleanliness. I know the dash connector has grease on it, I will have to get some contact cleaner and see what I can resolve. I was looking at the Bluefire set up, even bought a tablet for the set up and then decided to get the Scangauge D...hopefully I will resolve the issue...

Good morning, I have a 2004 H/R Neptune 36PDQ. Bought a Scangauge D and hooked it up to the 6 pin connector by the steering column. After setting it up, I could only get a voltage reading. No other information. I connected it to the 9 pin connector at the rear engine access and I can get all of the other parameters. Has anyone had this issue before and where would be a good place to start trouble shooting? Thanks Rich

Thanks Ivan. Do you have a Scangauge D? Thanks Rich

Dean, what code reader do you have? I recently started getting a check engine light on start up for about 5 minutes or so. I would like to know what is triggering the light. 04 Neptune with 5.9 Cummins. Thanks Rich

8 1/2 years is a great life span for batteries these days..

Prior to replacing a compressor, I would put in a can of freon with dye in it and get a ultraviolet light source and check everything for traces of dye if it leaking from a hose or connector or even the compressor it will light up like neon...imo. then you can know that you are changing out the defective parts, then draw vacuum on the system and re add the freon required

Bill, I am interested in the tpms set you have. I will text you. Thanks Rich

Congratulations, welcome and a very nice looking rig.

I have a NOCO 2 bank charger, my batteries are both 12v, but the carger will do 6v or 12v and each bank is independent. Bonus if you are a veteran, contact them and they will send you a veteran discount code.😁

I would try Steele rubber products first. https://www.steelerubber.com/camper-rv

Ford used a similar rubber bushing on the early (66-77) Broncos.

Thanks Bob, I will look for it there tomorrow...

Thanks, they have already been replaced.

I have a "New to Me" Holiday Rambler Neptune 36PDQ on a Roadmaster R4R Chassis. I am not new to RVing, just new to having a Diesel Pusher. I have researched for information on the air system and have not found much info. I have only found one air tank in the front and opened the lower petcock on that tank (expecting to have moisture in it) very little if any moisture came out. I have read about an air dryer / filter, but I haven't found one on my rig. Is there an air system schematic that can help me locate the different components of the system? Just wanting to make sure I have properly drained any moisture in the system before the temps dip down and I inadvertently destroy anything! Thanks

Gary, My H/R Neptune has Chevy truck tail lamps. There should be numbers molded in the exterior surface of the lens. I googled the numbers and came up with the part number for the lens, then searched rock auto for them.

Thanks Bob, That's one of the vendors and items I was looking at while searching for it..

Thanks, yeah the trim cover is my hang up right now, I really don't want to splice pieces together. And with screw holes in it, I will need at least 45 plus feet a side(my coach is around 37 foot long)...when you find the material number, I will appreciate that too.. Being an aircraft mechanic...I am very thorough...so yes, the 30 minute jobs take longer..🙂. My wife always tells me that I don't have to be perfect...34 years of working on aircraft and building fighter aircraft...yeah, it has to be perfect!

I am a Aircraft mechanic and I work at Boeing...saw your shirt, assuming you possibly retired from Mesa? I am in St. Louis. After the Navy, I went to work for McDonnell Douglas as a Sheet metal guy. During layoff times I did corporate jet repair. This should be fairly easy for me, I hope...just don't need to reinvent the wheel. Your video is pretty much exactly what I thought I would be up against. I will need to replace the scre trim cover as the previous owner ran screws through the cover... Thank you for your assistance! It is much appreciated...BTW, I am currently working on the F/A 18 SuperHornet line..

Thanks Bob, Is that you in the video?

So digging into this a little bit further...I see trim cover with a lip and trim cover without a lip. What is the purpose of the lip and would it go to the upward or downward? Looking at the pictures I posted earlier, it looks like the driver side definitely doesn't have the lip, while the passenger side looks to have a lip. I currently don't want to start taking it apart as it is raining and cooling off. So I know it won't be very pliable. Thanks Rich

Thank You Ivan!

Bob, here are a couple pictures of the end profile as it wraps around the rear lower panel of the coach. First picture is of the passenger side and seems a little deformed, next two shots are of the drivers side.

Yes, it is an aluminum roof.