Doug and Nicki

My Monaco has two different outlets behind the refrigerator, accessible from the lower louvered panel on the outside wall. One is labeled inverter. See if you have a similar setup. On mine, that outlet handles both shore power and inverter power.

Moderator EDIT This was a new topic, but it should be in the current topic. It has been merged. Thanks for understanding END of EDIT Paul Whittle is the guy to rebuild your poorly functioning Intellitech wall switches. I just received a six button switch from Paul that I sent him a week ago. The thing works wonderfully. I have recovered use of one of the light fixtures that previously would not light up. Paul knows a ton about our multiplex lighting systems and I am so happy to be able to reach out to him when we have a problem. Thank you, Paul!

I just zipped mine so we will see how things go tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.

Not a chassis multiplex coach, thank God. I put a new flasher unit in it a couple years ago I just pulled and reseated it, so we will see how things go on the rest of the trip to Columbus. I appreciate all the comments and support from you folks.

We traveled from Nashville to Cincinnati and it worked fine until the last ten miles. Then it quit working consistently again. I will do some voltage checks once we get to Columbus. I’ll post what I ultimately find.

I have the LZ702W. Just removed it recently. This is the display the GPS was using. Please message me at doug@dbcraig.com. How about $25 which includes the freight?

Working fine now but will see once we get back on the road. Hard to believe the switch is bad. These switches are used on heavy trucks and should last the lifetime of the RV.

I found that one of the cables on the house batteries was disconnected. It was touching the post a bit, but we were getting some power loss (like a brownout and then it would be fine) to the lighting as a result. My question is... Would this have had anything to do with the turn signals not working consistently?

I have a 2008 Dynasty. Within the past week, the turn signal switch is working intermittently. If I hold up on the lever, it will work sometimes. I have cleaned all grounds to make sure it is not that. I have also checked to make sure all the harnesses coming out of the wheel are connected well. I have fiddled around with it enough to feel the switch is bad. Do any of you have a differing opinion? If I need to replace the switch, do any of you know the procedure? I have looked at YouTube and other online resources and do not see anything on this subject. I have watched clock spring replacement and have learned a little. However, it looks like the turn signal switch is below the clock spring in the column. I prefer to have some knowledge before tearing into it.

This is likely power steering hoses.

This is great information to have. Thank you, Frank. Paul has helped me on several occasions. It is a blessing to be able to have you guys to help us all.

When I had this problem, I cut the pex line coming from the fresh tank to the water pump and installed a Sharkbite check valve, arrow pointed toward the pump. This took five minutes and permanently corrected the problem.

Looks like it has leaked for some time. NAPA should be able to make a new line for you.

On my Monaco, there is one ride height valve in the front and one on each side in the rear. Take a measurement between the top and bottom air bag plates on each side of the front to see what you have. You will obviously find a difference in the rears when taking this measurement. I bought the valve from a truck parts supply place. I actually bought three of them to have spares for the potential replacement of the other two in the future. You will need to remove the one you have and take it with you to the parts supply place. There are many different ones, so they will need to match it up. I have an older post in here from last Summer with some pictures. Try to search to find that post. On my Monaco, there is one ride height valve in the front and one on each side in the rear. Take a measurement between the top and bottom air bag plates on each side of the front to see what you have. You will obviously find a difference in the rears when taking this measurement. I bought the valve from a truck parts supply place. I actually bought three of them to have spares for the potential replacement of the other two in the future. You will need to remove the one you have and take it with you to the parts supply place. There are many different ones, so they will need to match it up. I have an older post in here from last Summer with some pictures. Try to search to find that post.

Is the front airing up as expected? If it is just the rear, it is likely a bad ride height valve. I had the problem last Summer on my Monaco Dynasty and had to change that valve to get the passenger side to air up.

Shut the water off first. You may want to put a slight bit of Vaseline on the o'ring. Harbor Freight sells o'ring kits. Not sure if one of those will fit, but worth a try if this doesn't work.

I am about to run a new cable from the rear camera to the front of a 2008 dynasty. I understand the tunnel between the frame rails, but how do I get the cable up into the rear cap? The is a blockoff between the engine bay and the upper part of the rear cap. is it possible to bring it down beside the air intake?

Hi Frank. This one is not chassis multiplex. The mirrors require the key to be either on or acc to work. However, the mirror fuse location is not hot when the key is on. There are other non ignition controlled devices on that same board that work fine. That particular board is not lighting up like the rest of them in that driver side panel compartment.

I have a 2008 Dynasty with Ramco mirrors, each with three separate mirrors. I am not getting power to the mirrors to allow adjustment. The ignition is on and the 5 amp fuse is fine. The turn signals that are imbedded in the mirrors work fine. Anyone have any ideas what to look for?

Google light fixture 12 volt 3 inches long Amazon has various options that will work. A couple look very similar to the one you want to replace.

Yes, just the arms.

I have been told 8" to 9" between the plates on the air bag. A tiny bit of adjustment goes a long way. You need t be under the RV when you set it. It needs to be idling, in neutral, brake set and in travel mode. There is room under there for fairly big guys. Mine is set at about 8.5".

I noticed a post some time ago where a guy said he drilled a 1/8” hole in the shoulder of the dump valve above the handle. He would force machine oil into this hole periodically to lubricate the valve. He then screwed a small screw into the hole afterwards. I wonder of doing this may help you get some lube in there to allow you to work the valve.

We took our old ones to an awning shop and selected the color Sunbrella fabric the wife wanted. Be sure to show them the two nylon beads are different sizes and tell then you want thread used that is meant for constant weather. This is important. All four of mine were $800, as I recall. Sunbrella fabric is expensive but lasts for years. If you find an out-of-the-way awning shop, the cost will be lower than the top line places. The result is the same.

Last year, we were fortunate in winning the grand prize in the drawing while at the gathering. We sent the mirror arms to Spacecoast Plating and Metal Refinishing a couple weeks ago and received these today. Their work is incredible! I highly recommend them if your mirror arms are experiencing chrome bubbles. Everyone there was professional and they turned these around fast. Removing and reinstalling everything takes some time, but the result is impressive. I am not affiliated with this company. Just want to recognize them for incredible quality, all the way around. Their number is 321-254-2880. They are in Melbourne,Florida.