Marine Boy

Yes, Good Sam is owned by National General!

I believe that if your the inductive coils and control board are ok in the 40250, your idea would work. I have bypassed the the Shore Power contactor in my 40250 and disconnected the generator circuit and we are functioning on Shore Power with all data coming out of the 40250 for volts and amps. I have found an Eaton contactor that I believe is replacement for the old contactor. Once I return home from my trip, I plan to replace the contactor and with luck with be fully functional with only about a $100 parts expense. I will update everyone with how it goes once complete, probably late October. Thanks for all of the input and ideas! Best, John

Not made any longer.

Yes, Ivan you are correct the Surge Guard is 40250 is just a transfer Switch.

I have a Surge Guard 40250 and the main/shore power contactor just went bad while I am traveling. Has anyone replaced the Cutler-Hammer C65FNF360 contactor with an Eaton replacement? Or should I bypass it for the rest of my trip and replace the 40250 completely? I can make the rest of the trip without the Generator during a bypass.

Here is what I have used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086P36KB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks Everyone. I think I have an issue. On 5-7% grades, starting below 40mph, I have to keep using my vehicle brakes to keep for going above 2500rpm. I will get another test tomorrow starting in Salt Lake City finishing in Moab, UT.

I have a 2006 Dynasty 42 with an ISL400. I have the engine brake with a hi/low setting. I am out west for the first time and always thought it was working correctly, but now doing grades over 5% I am not sure. I don't seem to see a big difference if any when going from low to hi... Going down a big grade the trans will downshift to the point where my RPM gets to hit 2500rpm, and at that point I use my service brakes.... How much difference should I see when switching to hi on the engine break and is there anyway to verify it is working?

I have a 2006 Dynasty with an ISL400 and my settings use the J1708 bus. I tried J1939 and lost some data points. I have ACTIA guages which one failed and they were able to rebuild it. I would contact ACTIA for assistance. Call David Lindenlaub 574-266-2610 at ACTIA. He helped me.

Just an FYI - I finally gave up on BlueFire as it caused issues with my engine data buss. I would remove if and power everything down and back up, to see if it makes any difference.

It is a circuit breaker/fuse. Probably thermal and auto reset.

If you have a fiberglass roof, you don't use the antenna and/or think you will ever use the hole for some other purpose, fix it the permanent way. You can get a fiberglass repair kit with either polyester or epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth. Go on youtube and there are plenty of videos that will show you how to patch a hole in fiberglass. Sounds like a lot of work but it is a really simple process that shouldn't take you more than a couple hours as a rookie, and it will be much faster once you have done this the first time. You will never worry about it leaking!

It is rotted. Need to replace it. There are a number of companies that make replacements. I would check with the awning manufacturer first, but they will usually be the most expensive.

Sorry, I am not familiar with your model. It should be if your manual?? If you don't have an owners manual, try to search the site for a manual. It does sound like a block heater or hot water heater with a loop to the engine.

If your plug into shore power. Sounds like aqua hot engine heat is on or block heater is on? If you have those features????

I removed my pump and use gravity. It is faster and less chance of plugging up.

I have owned my bus for 2 years and it is about 50% undercover. When I bought her she was in Florida not covered for a couple years and as I know was in Maine before that, not sure about how it was stored.

I have a 2006 Dynasty and my Girard and Carefree paint is good on both.

Most likely you have a bad ground. Try tapping in a ground connection at one of the tail lights an see if that solves your problem. If it does, then you will need to trace back the ground circuit for those lights.

I would recommend to fix what you have. If the hoses are in good shape, except at the fittings, you can by fittings to splice to your current hose. My previous bus had damage fittings which are replaceable. A lot of the shops don't want to repair the hose, but as long as the hose is in good condition, it can be repaired. I found a shop that would repair it, but didn't have the tools. So I went on Amazon and bought a crimping tool kit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09V4CY19C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Then went NAPA's website and bought the fittings. It is not a big deal, you just need to find a shop that will work with you doing this. So to repeat myself, as long as the hose itself is in good condition, you can repair the hose. With the tools and fittings it was under $200, plus what the shop will charge you. While doing this, I would recommend to have the dryer replace, which is less that $75.00.

On the Aladdin in 2006 the wiring from the senders go to a Tank Interface module, which will be mounting on the ceiling of either the 2nd or third bay behind the fuel bay. You may need to remove the ceiling panel in the bay?? The easiest way to check the senders, is to once you find the Tank Interface Module, swap the gray tank and black tank RJ-11 plugs and see on the Aladdin display if the problem travels with the wire switch. This should lead you to if it is the harness or sender. I would suspect the sender???? I have attached a picture on the Tank Interface Module. FYI-If it is the harness with RJ-11 plugs on each end, I am not sure if that is straight thru wiring on cross wiring. You should be able to see by inspecting each end of the plug. If it comes down to the Tank Interface Module, I have one that you could have for shipping costs.

I lived in the Cleveland Area for 60 plus years until 3 years ago and used Custom Electric in my business. They are a great shop and worth the shipping. And I found another great rebuilding shop here in Tampa: Hutcherson Alternators & Starters, 701 S. 50th St., Tampa, FL 33619 (813) 247-4365. Both shops are fair and professional, the old fashion way!

Thanks for the info and pics. Would love to know the cost for the plates installed.

Are you talking about the porch light? This is what I have. I bought a new lens, an LED bulb replacement( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09D7917XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and removed the switch on the light, since you can't reach it anyway. Works great without drilling more holes. FYI - the lens is available in amber or clear. The LED bulb is a lot brighter.

I started this Thread about shock choices a few days ago. Thanks to everyone who took the time to share their thoughts and experiences. I have learned a bunch and all of the input is helping me make a final choice. I love this group and appreciated all of the sharing of knowledge! Best, John