Gweedo

Hello all trying to replace power steering filter. Looked under tip but it’s different. HD. Center bolt and level check. Tried pulling up on the lid, nothing. Tap gently with hammer nothing. Don’t know if this ever been off. Notice a bit of jerking on the wheel. Fluid is low. Anyone take this lid off before?

I normally use the auto, tried the manual once and the coach looked like a pretzel, why the windshield didn't pop or break is beyond me. Apparently i did something wrong. I think i need to recalibrate, sometimes one or two won't retrack quite all the way, could be the adjuster but I think I'll do the leveling procedure first. I park, slide out, dump and level, any other way and one basement door will just hit the slide, I had the slides adjusted. Thanks DennisZ for posting the level procedure.

I have used all of the above and in MHO their okay. I have off road toys and boats and been turning wrenches for a while now. I used the above listed until a friend (master mechanic IMO) turned me onto to a product called HELIX. It's referred to carb rebuild in a bottle. It boosts octane by 2 and if you add extra you can store fuel up to two years. Safe on seals. I put this in all gasoline engines, super charged outboard boat motor, log splitter, snow blower, dirt bikes, UTV's MC Etc. zero problems staring a year later and never a fuel related issue. Keeps everything clean. Example: take your dirtiest jet and place it in a cap, put a few drops of Helix and gas, let it set over night and you will have a pristine jet on the morning. Take a sputtering motorcycle, put in fresh gas with Helix and let it run, you will hear it clear up. Just thought I'd share the info as another option, I don't sell it, just a strong believer in the product. Helix Racing Products 5-in-1 Fuel Treatment - 700604500837 Eliminates water from fuel systems Works with 2- and 4-stroke engines Revitalizes old gas Boosts octane by up to two points Stabilizes fuel for up to two years Cleans injectors, carburetors and fuel system components Alters burn chemistry for more complete combustion Proprietary formulation of complex organic bio-based (green) compounds Regular use results in more power, better mileage and a cleaner environment Treats 16 gallons 8 fl. oz. bottle

From Shell Oil. FYI. DEBUNKED: 5 COMMON MYTHS ABOUT SYNTHETIC DIESEL OIL Synthetic oil allows all parts of your engine to work together and protect it from damage and failure. There are several preconceived notions about engine oil that are not correct, Shell Rotella is here to help you separate fact from fiction. 1. You can’t switch back to mineral oil after using a synthetic oil Switching back to conventional oil from synthetic is absolutely safe. You can change from the 5W-40 synthetic oil you used in the winter to a 15W-40 conventional oil in the spring. We offer Shell Rotella T4 15W-40 conventional oil and Shell Rotella T6 15W-40 full synthetic if you want the added benefits of synthetic oil technology. “During colder months, it's a good idea to switch to a lower viscosity oil – in this case, synthetic oil – to provide improvements in engine stability,” explains Karin Haumann, OEM Technical Manager for Shell Lubricants. Haumann adds: “Because a synthetic oil can meet the same OEM specification as a conventional oil, the question is, are you willing to relinquish the inherent benefits a full synthetic product can give you?” With the proven benefits of synthetic, you can use it in your engine all the time. 2. Synthetic oil is too expensive While synthetic blend and full synthetic oils may cost more upfront, the benefits they provide make them worth the investment. “The benefits Shell Rotella® synthetic motor oil provides in terms of engine protection, longer oil drain intervals, and equipment durability over the lifetime of the engine easily outweigh the cost,” said Haumann. Shell Rotella® T6 Full Synthetic engine oils provide protection that can save money with enhanced fuel economy capability, without compromising engine protection or durability. Key performance and fuel economy benefits of synthetic include: Lower oil consumption to help reduce maintenance costs Increased protection against oxidation for increased fuel economy Excellent corrosion control to help protect key engine parts Low Ash formulation for emissions system compatibility 3. Only newer engines need synthetic oils Synthetic engine oils are designed to provide improved protection for a range of extreme working conditions in new and older engines. Whether you’re stop-and-go driving or working in freezing cold or desert heat, synthetic engine oils are designed to: Improved engine protection Promote engine cleanliness Keep operating temperatures cooler Lubricate the engine quickly when starting in cold weather If your engine is designed for higher performance that will put higher stress on the engine and the oil. It’s best to have a synthetic oil that's better at withstanding that stress. “It’s well known that synthetic products can protect engines better than conventional oils,” says Haumann. “Most new vehicles require a XW-40 or lower synthetic blend type oil because it improves startability in heavy-duty engines and offers real advantages in fuel economy.” 4. You can't change brands of engine oil As long as the specifications and approvals of the new oil meet what is required by your engine’s manufacturer, you can switch between brands with no issues. Though several brands of oil may meet the same industry and OEM specifications, they often have different performance levels. Shell Rotella® offers a complete portfolio of synthetic and synthetic blend heavy duty engine oils that are suitable for virtually all modern low-emission heavy duty engines and older hard working diesel engines. With its wide range of specifications, and approvals from many of the world’s leading engine makers, the oils are an excellent choice for on-highway fleets, general haul, construction, agriculture, public-transport operators and diesel pick-up trucks. Drain the oil and you can change brands. Shell Rotella meets or exceeds current CK-4 and other standards 5. High viscosity oil is best With Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 synthetic blend, you get the strong wear protection of a 15W-40 with the added benefit of fuel savings.1 In addition, Shell Lubricants has introduced Shell Rotella® T6 10W-30 full synthetic heavy duty engine oil, which provides the benefits of a full synthetic engine oil in the fastest growing viscosity grade for diesel-powered vehicles. The versatile oil offers fuel economy benefits and excellent engine protection for hard working trucks. Shell Rotella® T6 full synthetic engine oils provide protection that can save money with enhanced fuel economy capability, without compromising engine protection or durability. The oils also perform extremely well in heavy duty diesel engines even in extreme temperatures, meeting and exceeding industry performance standards. Shell Rotella® T6 15W-40 Full Synthetic is for diesel engine drivers that prefer the higher-viscosity but still want the benefits of synthetic technology. See Shell Rotella Products

Amazon didn't show one so I ordered from another company, 843 297-8348|info@rockerswitchpros.com . Now when I have a moment I'll pull the switch and order a new one. Thnx info@rockerswitchpros.com

Mine just started messing up. The dash starts the gen but won't shut it down. I am assuming its a bad switch. Mine is a 8K on an 07 HR. You think it's the same switch as mentioned above? Or do I need to remove it first. thnx Regarding the tool, there are diff makers but they appear the same. does it matter which tool? Is this tool just to get the face off or removal from dash? does a new switch come with the face or do I use the old one. thnx

Good stuff, put that in mine!! runs cooler

I'd put a good stiction cleaner in there with the new oil, I use the Secret Hotshots and their FR3 on the future oil changes W/O stiction cleaner. I also use their Diesel Extreme every 6K miles in the fuel and I use their Everyday diesel on each fill up. Many brands to choose from. FWIW I run full synthetic Amsoil in the motor and Genny, I use to run the Rotella T5. Congrats on the rig! Safe travels

. Awesome thanks!!!

Thank you, mine isn't that great either. I looked through a bunch, saw specs for 5/8 but not for my 1/2. I'll call around tomorrow n c what I can find out and post it. thanks again..

Good afternoon all, wondering if anyone has replaced the rear axle flange gasket and if so, do You recall the torque value on the flange nuts with a washer? Mine is a 12 bolt. I have looked around the forums, and nothing specific and a lot of different numbers. 2007 RR8R HR. thnx

Look into Restore FX, it's a company that restores clearcoats, not sure if they have them in your area, you'll have to research. There are videos of some pretty bad clearcoats they made look new. I too have some spots on the rear and both front and rear caps that need to be repaired. I will soon be contacting them time permitting, for now I'm safe as mine is stored inside.

Costco if you have one, I paid $104.. Interstate

you can get them in stainless and different lengths, 24 gauge to 1/4. you can purchase individual sizes in smaller packages

Look into your Turbo Air Control Valve. I found it for $359, lot of places had it for 7-800. In a nutshell I had blk smoke, no power at take off, turbo kicked in at about 7-10 lbs of boost, blk smoke while cruising. I discovered after waring it up to temp, shut it off for 10-minutes restart and worked normal. Took it to cummins for computer update no diff. Old time mechanic at cummins saw my issues a few times and suggested the control valve. $1500 there but they didn't have it in stock, I found it for $359 and took a chance. Solved my problem. I don't if your issue can be solved by this but it's certainly worth looking into. It took about 15-minutes to replace, sits on top. Mine is a 400 ISL

use this and you will never have an issue again get it on Amazon VIGRUE 150pcs #8-32#10-24 1/4"-20 5/16"-18 3/8"-16 Carbon Steel UNC Rivet Nuts Assortment

My issue was the connector through the wall, the connections were weathered, I replaced the connector with wires connectors. hollowed the fitting, cut the wires offset so they would fit. Awning worked much better, bit it's still slow, although I do have a 4' shade attached, so they will do it. It would be nice to know what size wire is feeding it, may be just too small, but I have other priorities first

good luck to you, the left hand bit like i mentioned worked probably 80% of the time. just go slow, looking for grabbing not drilling.

Congrats, do you have room to tack weld a small bolt the the broken off bolt.

Darn, ok I replaced mine because the shaft was spinning. If yours is like mine, the shaft that connects to the awning is round with a flat spot. That is the only thing keeping from unraveling. That eventually rounds out on the edge’s. (mine opened on the road with very high side winds, not fun) I drilled through the flat spot of the shaft and put a small grade 8 bolt through, that will not happen again. The motor as mentioned above is nothing more than a window motor. Regarding the wiring I hollowed out the connector and ran new wires through which increased power. Cut the wires offset to make it easy to feed through I can pics when I return home tomorrow if you need them

Does the motor spin at all and it doesn’t roll or does it do nothing?

Sorry I don't know how much room you have, but one of the tricks is to SHOCK around the bolt with a heavy duty punch/hammer. If need be cut the punch down, soak the stud with KROIL lubricant. Then try a LEFT HAND drill bit, slowly drilling it, heat and shock works a lot of times and when I used to turn wrenches, more times then not the left hand bit worked best. Many like already listed above work as well, but the left hand bit can go deep and you never know when its going to grab. Just go slow, you are not trying to dill it out you're trying to get it to grab. I replace those bolts with new most of time with a very small amount of oil, the oil won't change the torque value. Good luck, that jobs sucks!!!

Performance Tool Stud Extractor - W83203 Part # W83203 Line: PFM 3.9 out of 5 stars. Read reviews for average rating value is 3.9 of 5. Read 39 Reviews Same page link. 3.9 (39) Write a review Ask a question Check Vehicle Fit $22.99 Each

We use Irish spring in bays, mothballs at the tires AND since we are plugged in to shore power, I use a heavy paper plate, cut a slit in it to the middle n slide it of the electrical cord cutting off their bridge to the rig. The mice can’t get around the plate, it a trick we use on our houseboat.

Mine kept blowing the fuse. they replaced the compressor, the fuse kept blowing. the short was in the condenser fan motor. replaced fan nor more problems with the fuse