throgmartin

Don't blame me. Blame Steve Parvin. He told me to wait till you were finished with your project. Goes to show you never trust an MSU Grad, especially a Veterinarian. 🙂

Bob, Et Al: We use 3M VHB 2 sided tape to reattach the outer cover. Make sure it is 3M and be sure you order the VHB type. To remove the adhesive from the old 2 sided tape we use trade secret - a small wire wheel in the end of a drill. Lay the cover flat on wood ( we use a long 10 ft 2 x 10 ) and go to work. It is messy but 5 times faster then using a scraper and a lot of denatured alcohol. In regards to people using stainless screws to reattach belt lines my advice is don't. We get a lot of beltline repairs in the shop that were fixed with stainless screws. With the flexing of the coach going down the road, over time, the screws started working lose just enough for the caulking bead on top of the beltline to break lose and water getting into the walls. The 3/16ths 304 stainless rivets will not stretch or work lose. I have never had a belt line failure in over 15 years and I have done 1,000's of feet of beltlines using 304 stainless rivets. Always use a drill stop. The area around the belt lines are areas that the factory ran wiring. I know this for a fact as I hit a 120v wire once. There are also a lot of 12v wires running in the radius of the roof line and some drop down near the beltlines. Due to the number of owners who have called and requested from us a kit, in In August we will be releasing to the market a brand new Talin belt line repair kit that will include everything you need to repair a belt line - rivets, Proflex, drill bits, scrappers, etc. This will help people by preventing them from having to search all over the internet looking for and sourcing parts and materials from multiple sources. Currently people are having to source all of these materials from 3 different sources and some have had problems getting the right sized rivets, scrappers and caulking. Each kit will also include free tech support via e-mail, phone and Facetime if needed. I will make an announcement when the kits are ready to ship. With over a decade of tackling belt line repairs on Monaco's and reattaching 1000's of feet of belt line ( over 400 ft in the last 60 days ) you learn a lot of tricks and you find what works and what doesn't. On behalf of myself and my staff we would like to take this time to thank all of the RV service centers in the USA who use screws and aluminum rivets to reattach beltlines. You have put a lot of money in our pockets by having to repair your beltline work. Scotty and Ted will never have to revisit their beltline repairs again because they actually listened to my seminars. ( Ted had to keep kicking Scotty to keep him awake of course ). 🙂

I always use denatured alcohol when cleaning up after removing caulking. But when silicone is involved, the only true solvent that will remove silicone is acetone. I am sure the colonel screamed from the heavens after reading my post. But all the testing I have done over the years involving caulking, alcohol just will not provide a good clean surface for proflex when the area was contaminated by silicone.

If you visited our shop and watched my technicians remove caulking, you would find the tools listed below in use. The removal of the old caulking, which looks like it was painted is a must. Using the plastic non-marring scrapers will help with chipping paint outside the caulking area. Once the caulking is removed you will need to clean the surface well with denatured alcohol. If you removed silicone caulking then you will prep the surface using acetone. Denatured alcohol will not remove the microscopic particles left behind from silicone based caulking and your application of new caulking will fail in a short period of time. I have used acetone for years on coaches and while it will remove wax, it has never removed clear coats. Once the surface is cleaned and prepped you can use Proflex RV caulking to seal the seam back up. I recommend Proflex clear. I am not a fan of the crystal clear. The very worst caulking you can use on a coach is silicone based products. It is a proven fact the adhesion properties of silicone caulking is terrible on painted surfaces. While it may work wonders on your house, it is a major failure on coaches which constantly flex going down the road. Here are the tools we use: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nonmarring-scraper-set-95832.html?_br_psugg_q=scraper

Yes but I believe it only comes in white.

Steve is correct. What makes them rust out is water entering the top of the belt line when the caulking separates and opens up. The water then enters the channel on the beltline and will run in both directions rusting the screws. Once the screws rust the beltline pops and opens up. At this point water enters the sidewalls and causes delamination. It will also travel down to the floor and rot the floor out. You should check your beltlines continuously, looking for bulges.

I will tackle this first with the proper procedure for setting up once parked. ALWAYS extend your slides while at ride height. In other words, as soon as you are parked, extend your slides. Then dump your air ( down to 30 lbs is sufficient ). Then extend your jacks and start leveling. If you have the tri-pod jack system, always extend your front jack first. The reason for extending your slides while at ride height is because your slides were adjusted at the factory at ride height. When I first bought my coach I didn't know this. I followed what others said on the internet and would dump air, level then extend my slides. I always had a couple slides that operated a little hard or sounded like they were binding. One of my buddies was in charge of setting up slides at the Monaco factory and he was the one who told me - " Never extend your slides after you level. You will bind and over work your slide assemblies/motors ". So how did they air up a coach at the factory to ride height without starting the engine ? They used an air hose and connected at the air inlet found on all of our coaches at the back. In regards to the 3 jack system ? There is a reason why they went to this setup. Some people thought Monaco got cheap and tried saving money using one less jack. The actual truth is it saves from blowing out windshields or cracking them not to mention twisting the frame and popping upper belt lines.. I have watched people with 4 jack systems and some get crazy with jacking one front corner at a time. This twists the frame which twists the windshield opening which also stresses the upper belt line. I have sat in a chair and watched owners with the 4 jack system rock, roll and twist the hell out of their coaches trying to level. The 3 jack system eliminates the twisting. You put down the front jack first. Then you deploy the rear jacks one at a time. It is a dance and as you level you make small adjustments of the rear jacks one at a time - right then left then right then left. It isn't a race to get leveled, you approach leveling slowly. This is why I hate jack systems with auto leveling. The auto feature tends to be aggressive and applies a lot of twisting forces to the front and rear caps. Some coach owners think their coaches have this massive frame and superstructure and there is no flex in the body or frame. This is not true. Any force ( deployment of jacks ) at a corner will transmit a twist to the opposite end of the coach. You raise the right rear, that force is transmitted to the left front ( and vice versa ). This is why we see so many upper popped belt lines on the driver front as well as the passenger and driver rear. I ran a financial report for my company and found that 30 % of our revenue is generated from repairing upper belt lines. There are other causes for popped belt lines but leveling is a big culprit. In regards to windshields, another buddy of mine replaces them for a living. He is one of the best glass guys in the business. We were doing a show together and during some downtime got to talking about popped windshields. He was telling me about customers who would get overly aggressive while jacking and not only pop their windshields but twist the front cockpit structure so bad they had to have a halo system installed ( rebuild the cockpit frame ). This happens a lot on the cheaper non Monaco brands , especially gasser's. One of my friends new to motorhomes was leveling his coach and twisted his front frame so bad that it not only popped the windshield but also separated the front passenger sidewall from the floor. He ended up having to have a halo installed and the front cockpit area rebuilt. This was on a cheap gas motorhome. Moral of the story ? Be nice to your coach when leveling. Go slow and easy............................. 🙂

We just did a Residential fridge conversion 2 months ago which replaced an Amish unit. The Amish unit puked after 2 years. The customer was tired of the Norcold and PO'ed that he didn't go with the resi fridge right away. There are ongoing issues with Norcolds. Not just being a fire hazard but also having door hinge problems and door seal issues. The door seals cannot be replaced individually. The other issue is that Norcold's are poorly insulated. The resi fridge will hold the temp much longer. One other thing I found that I liked when I threw my Norcold out and went to a resi fridge was the added space. The Norcold is a 12 Cu Ft fridge. Going to an 18 cu ft fridge is hog heaven. I lost track of the money I put into that Norcold. I should have thrown that thing in the landfill the first time I started having issues.

I can comment from the standpoint of not only owning an RV repair facility but as a tech as well. First off I hire people with no RV schooling. I focus on hiring people with mechanical skills and then teach them myself. 2 years ago I hired a certified technician that had a 2 year degree. I had to spend time breaking him of his bad habits and then teach him a multitude of things the school never taught him. All he had was basic RV knowledge. I felt the schooling was a waste of time. People learn this trade by working on RV's daily. There is not a single week that goes by that I do not learn something new and I have been at this game for 20 years. I have seen many mobile RV Tech's come and go. They go to school, learn the trade, buy a van and tools and start hitting the campgrounds. Soon after they are over their head with work they were never trained on. I have been in that predicament in my early years but thankfully I had a handful of experts I could fall back on and consult with. Many of these techs do not have that expert support behind them so they end up turning jobs down or worse yet attempt a repair and make a complete mess of the work they do. What follows after that is a bad reputation that goes from one campground to the next. Campgrounds and resorts in my area require the mobile RV Tech carry liability insurance. You are out of your mind if you work on RV's without being insured. You are only one job away from a law suit. There are also costs getting started - vehicle, ladders, general tools, specialized tools, circuit board testers, plumbing parts and tools, electrical testers and equipment. My Battery analyzer alone was $ 3,000. Add in parts inventory and you are looking at some serious money. You cannot just order parts as the job requires. Some parts orders are weeks away on delivery dates or worse yet back ordered for months. I try and keep a running inventory of critical parts on hand at all times. Customers who lose a capacitor or circuit board on an AC unit in the middle of summer do not want to wait a week for a part. I know of one traveling RV Mobile tech who is semi retired. He owns a coach and him and his wife have a winter campground they stay in as well as a summer one. He works a leisurely schedule as a Mobile RV Tech and makes just enough money to fulfill his needs. He also had years of experience in RV tech work. Sorry but from what I have seen, some of these schools are not worth the money. You walk away with a fancy piece of paper and hardly no skill sets whatsoever. They go into the RV field green and many end up with bad reputations because they get over their head in repairs they have no experience with. I like the idea of being a retiree and do RV Inspections as suggested by others. The investment is low and you can pick and choose what and where you inspect. I used to do inspections but quit doing them as they were too time consuming and it required travel which meant I was out of the shop.

I keep a bottle of hand sanitizer in my wet bay. I am a germaphobe which is why I keep hand sanitizer everywhere, including my truck. Maybe I am a relative of Howard Hughes. 🙂 I never used to be that way and in my misspent youth took a lot of chances. But then we all drank water from a garden hose and ate dirt as a kid and lived to tell about it. But as Tom say's, as we get older our immune systems start a downward trend. I married a funeral home owners daughter at the age of 18 and worked part time as a mortician. I can remember days we were so busy that we didn't have time for lunch. I used to hold a trocar in a femoral artery with my right hand when embalming a body while eating a sandwich with my left hand. I can remember getting multiple cuts on my hands while inside a chest cavity and was stabbed with dozens of needles. Never thought a thing about it. Then AID's came along and all of us morticians rushed to the Doctors to be tested for AID's, Hepatitis A, B and C and everything else under the sun. Suddenly our prep rooms turned into sterile environments, not for the deceased but the morticians sake. We all started taking extra precautions by wearing gloves, masks and washing our hands constantly like a surgeon. I finally learned how to suture using gloves. When AID's was raging many funeral homes went to traveling tradesmen, morticians who came in to handle the embalming. Of course my Father in law, being cheap wouldn't spend the money on a tradesman so we were left still embalming. Over the course of 14 years, part time, I think I worked on 350 bodies and worked 500 funerals. Almost everyone here remembers the AID's epidemic. But unless someone was in the medical work force at the time, one could never understand the shear panic when you got stuck with a needle accidentally or came in contact with someone else's blood or body fluids. Looking back on it and how I exposed myself to copious amounts of blood and body fluids ( without surgical gloves ) I thank God for never contracting a serious disease. Making matters worse, back then hospitals didn't test or notify you of a person who had AID's or any of the Hepatitis diseases. They just started reporting to the funeral homes as I was getting out of the business. The fact of the matter is that some people have amazing immune systems. Others don't. Mine, due to my age, sucks. I find it mind boggling that one individual can walk outside, grab a pile of dirt and eat it and not get sick. Others would be in an Emergency room fighting for their life. I understand where Tom is coming from.

I was an outside rep for Thetford for a few years and worked directly with their executive and engineering staff. I had special purchasing power with Thetford and Talin ended up being one of the Nations top ten sellers of Sani Con's one year. I came into the agreement when the Sani Con Turbo was launched. It is an amazing macerator system. It will pump up hill 100 ft and empty your tanks in about 5 minutes. I like the 400 series as it has a bayonet/hose fitting. If your system gets plugged you can disconnect the hose and connect your stinky slinky hose and dump your tanks. I sold pallet loads of the 400 + 600 series. I dropped our Thetford deal and no longer carry them ( a new executive re-arranged our outside rep deal and killed our profit margins to the point it was not worth carrying sani cons anymore ). When installing the new Sani Con turbo models you WILL have to upgrade the wiring to 10 ga along with a new resettable fuse inline. The turbo motor draws a lot of amps. With all this being said if you look into my wet bay on my coach you will NOT see a Sani Con system. I have a new 400 series still sitting in the box but have not had time to install it. That was 4 years ago. The dump hose works fine and I rarely travel so leave it connected all the time. I will hold on to the 400 turbo and may install it someday. But with limited time to travel it is not a priority. In regards to the old sani cons, Thetford quit making parts for them - Motors, impellers, etc. are almost impossible to find. Everytime I hear the word Sani-Con I think of the story of the guy who posted his experience on IRV2. I forgot the entire story but the way he posted it had me laughing and in tears. Him and his wife got back home from a trip and while they were unloading items from the coach into the house he thought he would dump his tanks. He ran the sani con hose to the sewer cleanout in his back yard, turned on the pump and walked to the front and heard a commotion. He ran back and found that his dog grabbed the sani con wand out of the sewer clean out and was running around with it in his mouth spraying sh&t all over the patio and himself. Talking about a major cleanup. Patio - yard - dog - Yuck. 🙂

Richard, I do the same as you, set the cruise at 62 and stay in the right lane and out of everyone's way. With 3 lane and more freeways, if people cannot find a safe way around me then they shouldn't be driving. For some odd reason I get the very best fuel mileage at 62. I go below that or above that and I take a hit at the fuel pump. I believe it may be the gearing in the rear end as well as the ECM parameters. Monaco used a transit bus ECM on some of their coaches and mine is one of them. They cannot be flashed to increase horsepower like the OTR ECM's. I never knew this till my son accessed my ECM. He changed a few parameters to increase mileage for me without sacrificing performance. It did make a small difference in mileage. I have no idea what parameters he changed. Engines are way out of my wheelhouse. I do know he had a couple friends that worked in Cummin's skunk works and dyno'ed engines for the factory and passed on info to him from time to time. That is where he discovered that Opti Lube was the best fuel additive on the market. The factory were doing tests on fuel additives based on the change over to ULSD. They found that Opti Lube was the very best and scored the highest, even over Cummins own brand - Diesel Kleen which was ranked outside the top ten. One thing I have found as I am sure you have Richard is that by being slightly out of the flow of traffic it is a lot less mental stress while giving you plenty of room in case some jack wagon makes a stupid move ahead of you. Running in the pack is like NASCAR. If someone makes a bonehead move in front of you, you are going to collected in the mess. I have yet to get a check from NASCAR for getting there ahead of others. My only concern is getting there......... In one piece. 🙂

Patience is a virtue. The MH driver had none. The truck driver never caused this wreck, the MH driver did. Each and everyone of us is responsible for our driving and any moves we make are under our direct control. It is our hands on the steering wheel and our responsibility when making maneuvers in traffic that we can do so safely. I am betting the MH driver got out and blamed the trucker. That is the way society is now - Never accept blame but look for someone else to point the finger at. The MH driver should have known he did not have enough room to clear the truck and should have never made the attempt to cut over. His fault - 100 %. I never rely on any driver to give me room or back off. I drive with the mindset that most drivers are in a hurry and and will drive like jackwagons and wont cut you a break. It is called defensive driving. Many times I have driven in the right lane with my left signal on waiting for a driver to let me in. I will sit in that lane till the cows come home till I know it is safe to move over.

Drove into the Buckees in NC on I-95. I drove right back out. There wasn't one parking space available anywhere for a car let alone a coach. With all the parking spots filled people in cars started parking in NON parking spots creating a big cluster. It was a complete mad house. I fuel at Love's almost exclusively at the truckers Island. I use my fuel card, get my discount and leave. No risk of getting boxed in or damage the coach on curbs, posts or other things. I like to make my fuel stops as quick as possible so I can get back on the road.

David, trust me when I say the quality issues are not limited to little things. I seen the pictures of a new towable delivered with black mold in the bedroom. It had a severe leak in the roof and the corner of the bedroom floor had rotted out. This mind you was brand new and was just delivered to a customer. I had a towable in here for repair. It was 2 years old and needed an entire new roof as the factory EPDM roof was blistered everywhere. Had a coach come in because he had slide roller issues. Every time he put the slide out the rollers would break off and fall to the ground. Reason being ? We found that the factory when attaching them missed the metal floor brace and they were screwed into wood or plastic. One of the biggest guardian plate jobs I ever did was on a 2 year old top of the line, very expensive, huge 5th wheel. All 5 slides had floor rot. One of the slides we had to rebuild the internal metal bracing as it was missing a piece from the factory. I could go on and on with everything we see in the shop. Some of the problem RV's we get in are 1 year out of warranty. Some are still in warranty but the dealer and manufacturer wont fix the problems. Most have major problems and many of those jobs I send down the road. I wont work on some of this junk for liability reasons. But what really kills me is to see a young couple want to camp with their kids and they unknowingly buy a new RV filled with factory build and quality issues. It is heart breaking to witness and I don't sleep well at night after witnessing a families dreams crushed by dealers and manufacturers who could give a rats ass about the customer. I would rather have a colonoscopy or a root canal then buy a new RV from everything we are seeing in our shop. I know I would be buying 3 years of headaches.

I know a lot of you do not get these industry updates so thought I would share this with all of you. Obviously, by what is shown in the article, the RV market for new units has dropped big time. I am not going to blame all of this on the economy but I personally feel that there are many things that are factoring into this big drop. 1.) The uncertainty of the economy. 2.) Interest rates making loans expensive 3.) The quality of the RV's being built. 4.) Current dealer inventories. Something I feel is also happening is that the word is finally getting out to the general public ( new RV'ers ) that the manufacturers are building junk these days with a host of quality issues. Most of us seasoned RV'ers already knew this. The quality is pathetic, especially in towables. Which ever way you want to cut it, the drops are in shipments is significant. I am waiting for the report on used RV prices. I will post that once I get it. The article: https://rv-pro.com/news/report-march-shipments-down-51-yoy/?utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=RVP_Daily&oly_enc_id=4235D9737501J9I

Wow. That is a serious incline. Very interesting history Ray.

Speaking of bridges, the Sunshine Bridge in Tampa can give some people fear. It is much shorter then the Mackinaw but it is still a log way's down. Anyone remember when the Sunshine collapsed ? I forgot the year and how many vehicles were involved. I think a ship hit one the bridge supports. Cannot remember. That incident put the fear of God in some people crossing the Sunshine. I just drove over it a few months back. It is way up and way down over a small, short distance. It can also get very windy up there with wind currents coming off the Gulf of Mexico.

I spent 42 years in Lansing. As a kid our annual family vacation was either Charlevoix, Beaver Island or the UP. There are some people who have no fear of bridges, mountains, etc. while driving and then there are others who get freaked out over them. I have several buddies who are retired airline pilots but are scared to death of heights. Everyone has their comfort zones with things. I never have made fun of anyone for their phobia's or fears. I have a couple of my own. I farmed for a few years and pushed cattle and horses around and worked around all kinds of livestock. But if I seen a rat I would go into a panic. Mice don't bother me but a Rat will make me run. Explain that one. 🙂

Bruce, It was a young lady driving a Yugo that got blown over the Big Mac bridge. It was 1988 or 89 I believe. I forgot the depth where her car landed but 150 ft sounds familiar. It took a week for divers to recover the car and her body. I seem to also remember speed was an issue. Right after that the State set new policies in place. Above a certain wind speed they would close the bridge. I do not know if they still have this but they used to have escorts for drivers who were scared of crossing. Being a Michigander I have been over that bridge a 100 times. Never in a coach. Biggest vehicle I ever drove over the bridge was a hearse. That was back when I was a mortician in my very young days and worked for my former father in law who owned the funeral home. I was transporting a body and was meeting up with another mortician from a funeral home on the opposite side of the upper peninsula. I had to go across the bridge to St. Ignace because the other mortician was scared to death of crossing the Mighty Mac. The bridge can be intimidating to some drivers and more so in the winter. They recommend driving slow during high winds while crossing the bridge. I know from being a pilot, speed in rough air can be minimized by slowing down. I apply the same principle when driving my coach. If it is windy, I peel 5 mph off my speed. If the coach is still being pushed around I will peel another 2 - 3 mph off. If it doesn't improve at that point I find a place to park and ride it out. Little hard to do that in an airplane. I climb or descend to find some clean air if I hit a lot of ongoing turbulence or slow the plane and push through.

I nearly ended up with my coach in a deep ditch one time. I was at a gas station fueling and had just finished when a lady walked around the front of the coach saying " oh look at those gorgeous dogs ". She proceeded around to the drivers window just as I was reaching for the door handle to go inside. All of a sudden the door handle was not near my hand anymore and I realized the coach was heading towards the ditch. I ran and opened the door and launched myself across the drivers seat and pulled the emergency brake switch on all while the dogs were going bat-crap crazy. The lady apologized and I kindly told her " never approach a vehicle with German Shepherds in it. That is their domain and they WILL protect it ". I had a dummy see my 2 GSD's and walk up to my pick up and went to reach his hand through the back window to pet my big boy ( 120 lb GSD ). King nearly nailed the guy. The guy actually got PO'ed at me and berated me for having a vicious dog in my car. I told him my dogs are not vicious, they just don't like dumb aZZes like you. All of this leads me to one of my favorite sayings - " The more I know about people............. The more I love my dogs ". 🙂

I have heard and seen it this with tornadoes but never a common wind not generated by a storm. Absolutely crazy. Glad the people are OK, specially their dog. But dang, what a loss. Their coach was totaled by the insurance company. I seen their update and I guess they bought a 2023 Dutch Star. You would think a 47,000 lb coach would win against a 100 mph wind when stationary. That wind current had to catch that coach at just the right place to flip it. God Bless those people and hope they have better luck with their new DP. Here is the story and pictures. There are links below that story on their website to more updates. I read the first one but not the others. Our Motorhome was Destroyed – MnM Go!

We are a Girard dealer and specialize in all of their awning systems. Ray is correct, Girard's are not the easiest to work on so having a lot of experience servicing them is a plus. They can be a real nightmare sometimes. It is also hard finding a tech who REALLY knows Girard's. Most techs never get an in-depth knowledge of them because their service center doesn't get a lot of the big coaches coming in with these assemblies. We have done Girard work on Prevost, Newells, Foretravels and of course the higher end Monaco's, so we see a lot of Girards. Johnny, the former owner and president of Girard was a close friend of mine. We did a lot of events and spent a lot of time together over the years. We used to smile whenever a coach owner would come up at an event and ask if John could send one of his techs to his coach to look at their awning. The next thing they said was " I just had a tech at a service center adjust it and it isn't working right or closing properly ". We see it all the time here, someone else's hands have been in the cookie jar before they came to us and many times it turns out to be an adjustment gone wrong issue. During a very weak moment I allowed Johnny to talk me into not only being a dealer but also a factory Rep. Because it cost Girard a ton of money to attend RV rallys Johnny would keep his staff home and use me as their rep at RV events and to be their factory support person/contact. I then trained my shop manager, Dustin, and then had him work with Girard's # 1 factory field tech for additional training and to learn some of the tricks and nuances of their awning systems. He ended up with an in-depth working knowledge of their assemblies. Since then Dustin has far surpassed me and become one of the best Girard techs in the country. Girard's are a total different animal then Carefree or Dometic's. I don't need to explain how over the top their prices are for parts not to mention their little tool you need to properly adjust limiters. The Girard awning and slide topper assemblies are such a PITA that I have known techs at other service centers who would take the day off if they knew a Girard job was coming in. But I will give them their due respect, they are the best assemblies going. They just have their little nuances. If you want to schedule an appointment with us call Bethany - 352-942-2653. I haven't checked our schedule lately but I know we are always heavily booked. Call her to find out what the appointment availability is for when you will be near us. If you are not going to be anywhere near us then I suggest you contact a Girard dealer/service center. Better yet, go to Girard's new factory in Red Bay, Alabama and have the work done there by factory technicians. They are right across the street from the Tiffin factory and have a service center there. That would be my choice before going to a dealership who has a tech who may or may not know Girards.

I believe the 265's would fit but I would double check the sizes and clearances. Monaco was notorious for installing undersized tires to save money. Many coaches with the factory sized tires are very close to being maxed out on weight ratings. This is why I went to bigger tires. I have a theory ( and I may be completely out to lunch on this ) but I feel some blow outs are due to tires being close to their maximum. Surely this is not completely true with all blow outs but I often wonder about that. This is where 4 corner weighing comes into play. I found one of my corners being heavy which put that tire close to its max rating. There are some coaches that have a heavy weighted corner and you never know this until you have all 4 corners weighed.

Proflex is sold in clear and crystal clear. I believe they came out with the crystal clear a year ago. We have had a lot of availability issues with Proflex over the covid lock down. At one point we were scrounging around the country trying to find the clear. If you ordered that tube off Amazon then they may have screwed up. I just ordered a case of 3M 5200. Someone at Amazons warehouse thought it would be cool to ship them to me one tube at a time over a week time frame. I got 3 boxes the other day and each box contained one tube. No idea what is going on at Amazon but a lot of my orders have been screwed up lately. When ordering Proflex make sure and study the label carefully and read the Ad as well. I found one ad that advertised Proflex and while the picture showed white the Ad stated it was crystal clear.