CTerry

I have used the braided stainless steel extensions for 18 years now. Have had one develop a leak. Just make sure the installers putting new tires on are careful with them. If them remove them and twist and bend the lines on older ones the rubber will crack inside and leak. Replaced one about eight years ago. These really make doing your daily air pressure check easy. They do make longer stems for the inside tire if you don't want these. A good commercial truck tire place will have these. Another thing to check is to replace the o-rings where the stems go through the wheels when you get new tires. They get hard and brittle and will leak a very slow leak that is difficult to find.

If your wheels are hub-piloted set up than you have no problem with the plastic spacer. If you don't use that the wheels can get corroded together enough that they are difficult to pull off. There are even special tools made to separate them when this happens. If your wheels use the studs on the inside wheel and the nuts on the outside you have to be careful to use the right inner studs. An aluminum wheel is thicker than a steel wheel. If the stud is not long enough the nut will nut turn down on the stud enough. A good commercial truck tire place should be able to walk you through this. Aluminum wheel next to a steel wheel does reguire some care especially if you are in an area where they salt the roads.

Front tires for sure. I would not have a RV with a Norcold in it. Those 1200 series caused enough fires to convince me to replace ours with a Samsung 8-9 years ago. Actually keeps things cold. If you can run your generator a couple of hours a day while boondocking and then for a short time just before going to bed you will have no trouble if you have good batteries. I replaced my old floresant tubes with LEDs just because they burned out so fast. The steering stabilizer I don't think is necessary with power steering. I have had a blow out on the front of my 2003 Beaver. Was not a problem staying on the road and getting to the shoulder. Seven year old Toyos. Did not buy those again. We have replaced the Sharpe Microwave/Convection oven. I believe they still make a direct replacement. I would check the maintainance records for items like fan belts etc. One thing I have recommended to some people is the front wheel bearings. If they are still the old greased bearings consider replacing bearings and races and go with oil bath and synthenic lube.

I had the same problem with my 03 Beaver. Turn the key over to start position and nothing. Mine was the key switch. After pulling it out of dash was able to find one at Napa. I think it was a GM part. They ordered that morning and it was there in the afternoon. Fixed the problem. It's been about three years now. I can't imagine a motorhome having enough miles on it to have starter problem unless it was corrosion on a connection someplace.

Every couple of years I have sprayed my radiator and aftercooler with Simple Green, let it soak a while and then used a pressure washer to clean it out. You do have to be careful and spray the radiator straight on to keep from bending the fins. Lucky for me the AC is up front behind the front step. Some times I have to do it two or three times to get clear water. No problems so far.

I have a 2003 Beaver that I have replaced element once. Mine only has one. Not a hard job but you do have drain the tank down some. I'm pretty sure mine was damaged when the park we were in had some electrical problems because a lot of people with park models there lost there water heaters. They aren't going to corrode because they are in the tank fluid.

I installed a Samsung in place of the 1200 Not so Cold about 8 years ago in my 2003 Beaver. It had 4 six volt batteries. Plugged it in to hot all the time plug and have never had a problem. Will run all night if we are on the road stopped without power. The Samsung uses less power than the Norcold did on 12 Volt. Sleep a lot better not worrying about a fire all night.

I park my motorhome out at a friends house in the country. Had mice one time. Looked everywhere for entry point. Followed trail of paper from roll of paper towels hung on inside of baggage door. Found the nest and got rid of that. Thinking they got in when I was working out there and had left doors open. Put a bunch of dryer sheets in the compartments, around the batteries and everywhere inside I could hide one. No problem since. Also I keep poison cubes around inside the shed. If you have a problem the cubes will get eaten.

Thanks. I can see the blower motor. I was looking on the firewall area as per other Monaco owners. My system seems to be different. The Blower motor is inside of the firewall. I can reach it from the center console part of the dash. Now that I know where to look I can figure out how to get to it. Thanks again. Terry Cole

I have a 2003 Beaver with the failed AC fan switch resistor. The Beaver is different from the Monacoes in that the door on the generator slide is smaller. The opening is just big enough for the generator to come through. Also the dash is not nearly as deep as in the Monacoes. I can see the AC unit from under the motorhome. It is different from the Monaco. Has anyone had this problem and been able to find this resistor. I believe my motorhome was built right when Monacoe was taking over Beaver. Chassis my be a 2002 but don't know. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Terry Cole

I did not remove the cabinet. If you remove the screws holding the wood frame around the TV a couple of people can just slide the old TV out of the cabinet, Disconnect all the wiring from the TV. I saved the trim around the TV to trim around the new one. Put a piece of wood inside of the cabinet, Mount your arm for the new TV to that. New flat screen goes back flush with cabinet. I have some pictures I will post if I can figure out how to do that. Spend some time measuring. The larger Flatscreen you can mount the better. Measurements are on the Best Buy website.

I have installed a flat screen TV in the cabinet over the drivers seat in our Beaver. The TV is on a swivel arm that is mounted inside the original cabinet. This put the TV outside the cabinet. To keep it from moving when on the road I used velcro where the TV covers the cabinet front. A small piece on the back of the TV and another on the cabinet in two places is all it takes. If you want to pull the TV out to see better it's no problem.

I replace d a not so cold with a Samsung about 6 years ago in my 2003 Beaver. Plugged in to receptable that is hot all the time if plugged in or on inverter. Original inverter and still only the 4 batteries. No problems at all. Will run all night on the batteries with very small voltage loss.

My fan control has four positions knob. No air on the first two, lower speed positions. Works fine on the second two positions, the higher speed. I am hoping someone has had this problem and can tell me if it is the switch or the fan motor itself. Both are fairly difficult to get to but was hoping someone could lead me in the right direction so I don't wind up doing both, Thanks for any help.

You didn't say if the belt was an old V type or a newer serpentine but I have a 2003 Beaver with an ISC 350. It has a V type belt. There is no adjustment on the compressor. Have looked and looked over the years. My belt is long enough that you can get it around the larger pully and then "roll" it onto the compressor. Seems wrong but have found no other way. I was in the trucking business for 45 years with my own truck and have never understood how these motorhome people can do some of the things they do.

Try to find out what plugged up your filters. Drain them into a clear glass jar. Look for water or dirt. Cut open the primary filter and separate the folded paper element. You may have a build up of enough crud in your fuel that the pick up is getting it. This was pretty common in older trucks with the pick up on the bottom of the tank. They then went to a pick up tube from the top that stayed a couple of inches off the bottom of the tank. Still over time enough water would settle in the bottom of the tank over time to get picked up. I wouldn't make a very long trip without finding the problem.

There is an electric fuel pump located right above the starter. Crack a line and turn on the key. If the fuel does not flow I would guess that. Had this happen to my ISC 400. Recommend you have a shop do it because starter has to come off. First I would do though is replace both filters in case you got a load of bad fuel. All the junk or water you might have picked up will settle on the bottom of the tank. When you first start the engine it will suck that up and plug your filters. If the problem happens with the new filters you need to drain and clean your tanks.

Mine was doing the same thing on our trip from picking up our motorhome when it was new. Removed it and took it to our local Peterbilt dealer. They did not have one that was as cheap as the Monaco part but had an exact fit of much better quality. I am sure any truck parts p;ace could replace that valve.