CTerry

I have a 2003 Beaver Monterey. Possibly built in 2002. I am looking for the resister that controls the speed of the AC/ Heater fan. Only works on 3rd and 4th speed. Unlike a lot of Monacoes my AC'Heater unit is under the center console. on the inside of the firewall, I took the dash cover off looking for resister. can see the fan motor but its not there. I traced the wiring from the fan speed switch and it goes through the firewall close to the throttle pedal. looking on the front side of the firewall I can see no part of the AC/Heater unit. Does anyone have any ideas. thanks TerryC

I had the same problem on my 2003 Beaver Monterey. Thought ir was the Samsung. unplugged it and plugged in to extension cord. OK. Cut power to RV and removed plug behind refrigerator. Was one of those cheap made only for Monaco units with the blade connectors, Replaced with HD GFI unit. No problem since. Been replacing all the plugs that we use. Those blade type connectors are junk. All scorched inside.

Could be the U joints. Only 16,000 miles. Have they been ever greased. When I bought my motorhome in Indiana we drove straight home to CA. When I went to grease it the u joints would not take grease at all. When I pulled them out they had something other than grease in them. Hard and stiff. Surprised we got home, Just replaced them. Although u joints make a pretty constant vibration if going bad. Would really check mountings on rear axle.

I have used Rotella for years in my trucks and now motorhome. Wal Mart has it here but you may have to buy gallons instead of 2 1/2 gallon jugs. Tractor Supply carries it also. Dealers or shops that don't have it is because they have a deal or something going on with someone. I use to pick up a new truck at a dealership and it would have a Delo sticker at the oil fill tube. Stopped at truck stop and changed it out to Rotella on the way home.

I replaced my old Sharpe with a newer one. Easy because they mount the same. The new one did have attachments in the top if you can get to them. Was able to go through cabinet over microwave. Tightens everything up better. Original microwave moved around on mounting that was just on back wall. Made a lot of noise going down the road. Newer one with mounting screws at the top front is quiet.

Just replaced two lines going to a slideout ram. One of them had developed a leak at a fitting. Thought I could just use a replaceable type fitting since I had room and enough hose to cut it back. After several tries A hydraulic line shop told me they had not had much success with rubber coated lines. Finally decided to replace both lines going to that ram. I routed the lines along the bottom of the frame because the original lines are inside the frame with access blocked by the tanks. When you near the back I was able to zip tie the lines to the original ones. Get the very best lines and fittings you can because it is a real pain. Other side just seeping a little so watching it. When you get your lines made up be sure to get the line that will work with the replaceable fittings and get them long enough to have some extra length. Get lines with the fabric appearing covering. Good luck. I was sore for a week.

If your heater units are working in the house but not the hot water I would check the "mixer" on the back of the unit. Ours got so corroded from the bad water in Arizona over a couple of 3 month stays that it was stuck. So bad you couldn't even turn the knob on top of it. When I pulled it off it was full of calcium deposits. Just replaced it. Also you need to go on Aqua-Hot's website and download the manual for your unit. Lots of trouble shooting info there.

My Samsung quit working one day after several years of no problems. Checked all the circuit breakers and other simple stuff. Was worried it was a Samsung problem. Just to be sure and rule out a refrigerator problem I unplugged it and plugged it into an extension cord direct to the power pedestal in the park. Refrigerator working fine. Checked plug itself. That was the problem. Plug just quit working. Replaced it with a heavy duty plug wired up the same way. Been OK for several years now. Old plug had cheap and fast connectors where you just pressed wires into a blade kind of thing. Had gotten loose and hot enough to cause failure.

I wouldn't let anyone service an Allison Transmission except an Allison Transmission shop. Last time I had mine done they let me sit in the motorhome and read the paper. Filters and all the oil Took about an hour. That is all they do is Allison Transmissions. The Allison in a motorhome is the same one used in garbage trucks. Bulletproof but does need to be serviced on a regular basis. Find a shop that does only Allison Transmissions.

I was having a cracked exhaust manifold replaced on my motorhome. A rear radiator 2003 Beaver. They have to access some of the bolts from the access hatch in the bedroom. I bought enough thick plastic carpet runners to go the length of the motorhome. Pulled out the mattress before taking it to them. I had replaced the gaskets myself about five years ago and knew what they were up against. There is no way the mechanic can go through the motorhome without getting up against stuff. Just cover anything they might get up against with a towel or something. Any little prevention goes a long way. When I picked it up the mechanic saw me and came out and thanked me for taking the precautions I did. Just roll up carpet runner and store it till next time. They usually can not slide out rooms in the shop so imagine walking through there over and over with the rooms in. Plan for the worst, hope for the best.

Download the service manual from AquaHot. I had my unit out of the motorhome to repair a leak at the back of it. When putting it back in I came across the part about bleeding the air out of the lines. It's been awhile but as I remember there is a way to start the pumps without the electric or diesel heat being on. You don't want either to turn on if you had an air lock in the hoses and it clears and the coolant level drops. As they explained it this was pretty important.

Who replaced your thermostat. On a truck once I had replaced mine and it was somehow installed in a bind. It would open and then not close for a long time or not at all. Temperature would not get above 140 after climbing a hill and starting down the other side. Got into yard and and pulled housing off and found it stuck open. Could just have easily been sticking closed. If that was just replaced I would check that first. Especially if you were not having any problems before.

Go online to Aqua Hot and download their service manuals. All kinds of useful info there. Also the people at the factory are very good at talking you through problems. If you have one of these you will need to learn how it works. The factory also has a list of people across the country who have had their training course.

Pre-turbo not a good idea. If probe fractures and breaks it will destroy your turbo. I have never seen a truck engine with the probe pre turbo since the late 60's.

Back in the day before electronic engines some guys would open up the fuel pumps on their trucks so they could be first to the top of the hill. Didn't always make it because they would pull a sleeve or burn up a piston. If you set you had your fuel pump set a a derated horsepower you could just drive the truck and not spend your time worrying about it. I think the electronic controlled engines now you can just drive unless you have altered it with a chip or something. Thirty-eight years of experience here with my own trucks and one motorhome.

I had one of my valves on the back leaking just enough to hear. could get under enough to find a number and then I decided to try cleaning it. Took the rubber cap off the bottom and sprayed it with silicone spray and replaced the rubber cap. The valve has stopped leaking for now. Holds air overnight. The old number is no longer listed but had a parts place cross it over to another. Old valve shows made in Germany. New one shows made in Mexico. I figure the twenty year old valve from Germany is better than the new from Mexico. Valve is in a position where it is really had for me to get to. My back just won't take that anymore. Was going to take to a shop here and just have all three replaced but they were booked out three weeks. A lot of moving parts under there when the air drops off.

Two air valves on back axle. My guess would the valve it self or the connector on the rod from the valve has come loose. If you can hear air leaking it is probably the valve. The attachment on the end of the valve is a rubber piece. Easy to replace if you can get to it.

I do not have an exhaust temp gage on my motorhome but always had them on my trucks. Truck manufacturers will install them after the turbo because sometimes the probe will come of and then go through the turbo completely destroying it. I was told by Caterpillar and Cummins mechanics both that with the probe after the turbo that 900 degrees was about all you wanted. Occasionally would see it get that high on a steep grade or in a head wind. Just drop a gear to lower. The newer computer controlled engines it was hard to get it that high. The old non computer engines not so much. It depended on who had set the pump up. Not sure, but I think 1400 degrees is pretty hot. If I remember correctly 1200 will damage aluminum parts. They use to be called pyrometers

I have a 2003 Beaver built in 2002. Does anyone know if it has a Duvac alternator. Recently replaced the alternator with a new one. The new had the same numbers and the same terminal hook ups. Have no idea if it was a Duvac or not but everything seems to be working fine. Would change out again but it is a little difficult because of rear radiator.

To pass CA emissions on any vehicle that is legal all you need is the exact equipment the vehicle came with from the factory and it must be working. No aftermarket chips, turbos or mufflers. All they do now is a visual inspection looking for non-original parts. Wait and see what the final law is.

I have a 2003 Beaver built in 2002. The blower motor for the AC/Heat will only run on 3rd and 4th speed. Previous posts have directed me to the resistor block. My dash area is different than the same year Monacoes. The fan motor is not accessable from the front of the firewall through the area where the generator is. The motor is buried under the console at the front of the coach. I can see it and just barely feel it but can not figure out how to get to it. Haven't been able to locate the resistor block at all. Has anyone with an older Beaver addressed this problem. Any help would be appreciated.

Something to check. On my coach the heater blower units that are under cabinets were set back from the front vent covers a couple of inches. The air blowing out was going back under the cabinets not into the room. Typical Monaco Mickey Mouse half way done crap. I took the outside vent cover off and built a duct from the front of the heating unit to the back of the cabinet. Now all the air coming through is blowing into the room. Noticeable difference. I had four registers done this way. Under front center console, under refrigerator, under sink in bathroom and under bed. Try one and see if it helps.

We don't dry camp much but we do spend nights on the road with no hook ups. Goes all night with no problems at all. I do turn the icemaker off. We have a Samsung. Uses very little power. Never any problem. Using the same battery set up and inverter that came with the motorhome. Haven't seen any need to add batteries or a bigger inverter. Lots and lots of good info on the various sites including this one. Pretty sure Samsung uses less power than Norcold does on Propane. Just the four six volts and whatever inverter Beaver was using at the time. After the third recall with the Norcold I decided it wasn't worth the risk. I'm no motorhome tech but read everything I could find and took my time with it.

Nice job. We have a 2003 Beaver. The more you work on an older one and the more you help people with a new one you will realize the old ones are built much better with heavier materials. One suggestion I would make. While you are doing this much work pull the old "not really cold" Norcold and install a residential refrigerator. Lots of info on this site and others. Best thing I ever did in ours. I would hate to see you just get yours finished and have it burn down.

Looks as though you have greased wheel bearings on the front. I would recommend changing those out to oil bath and using synthenic lube. The seals are the same. No need for yearly repacking and they will run cooler. If a bearing does get loose the lube will leak out and you will know. They did away with the greased bearing in the trucking industry years and years ago.