dandick66

I think that’s one thing I didn’t check. If I open the rear drain, the front holds pressure, but I think that’s the dry side. Tomorrow I’ll see if the wet tank holds air if I open the rear valve. I doubt it will because when I drain the wet tank, the rear tank goes to 0. You’d think the result would be the same if I drain the rear. I’m going to post my test results in a little while. I did look at the shuttle valve. I think on my diagram it’s called a two way check valve. The part number on it is 157A1A. I can’t seem to get the hoses off. I’ve tried pushing with open end and flare wrenches and no joy. I’ve done the /4 inch hoses before, but these are 1/2 inch. I still need to find the charging check valve in the rear. I assume it will be at the other end of the red hose coming out of the wet side.

Not sure what the DIC is, but here’s the control panel and dash/display.

I did not know that about the Medallion system. When I turn the key on and try to select any readings, nothing happens. I just tried again, but this time I hit “enter” and was able to access all of the screens. Thanks! However k if I start the engine and the pressures are low, I get the low air display and cannot clear it until the pressure bulbs to approximately 75 PSI. I lowered the coach and was able to access the plug on the wet side of the tank. I figured out why you can’t use a 3/8 socket to access the valve - it won’t fit into the drain plug hole. The dividing plate is about 19 inches into the wet side. I took the socket and extension and fumbled around, but could not get it onto the valve, so, put the plug back into the side. I’m definitely going to have to drop the tank. I still am not having any luck removing the PTC fittings. I have tried the flare nut wrench trick, but no joy. I’m afraid I’m going to break the line at this point. I started the coach to raise it back up off of the stops. Now, when I drain the wet tank the front tank pressure holds! The rear tank still drops pressure. I tried it 3 times and it was the same. When I open the front (dry) tank, pressure drops in both front and rear tanks. When I open the rear tank, only the rear drains. I don’t know if I “unstuck” the valve when I poked around with the extension. I need to run some errands this afternoon and then I’ll try again this evening. Even if it gets good, I think I still have the problem with the shuttle valve. I still need to find a way to get those #$#&& PTC fittings apart.

Frank, I’ve owned the coach for a little over 5 years. I installed a dual mechanical air gauge about 2 1/2 years ago. The coach has the Medallion system and sweep gauges (with transducers). When you turn the ignition on, the Medallion will display “Engine Not Running “ until you start it, so no PSI display. Once you start the engine you only get the low pressure alarms until the pressure reaches about 75 PSI. The dash gauges will work only when the ignition is on. They aren’t the greatest to read as the display goes from 0-150 on a very small scale. Ever since I’ve owned the coach it has slowly dropped pressure while driving. The compressor would built to 125, drop to 115, and then slowly drop to 104 (about 2 or 3 minutes) and then the cycle would repeat. While depressing the service brakes, the pressure would drop then hold. What I didn’t realize was that the compressor was just keeping up with the loss and slowly fill. I never tested for a leak with the engine running and parking brake off. As far as draining the tanks, before this I never looked at the gauges to see what tanks drained when I opened the valves. I would open the front valve and then walk to the rear and open it. About 3 years ago after I noticed my air was at 0 when it sat for a couple of days, I took the coach to a bus garage and they found 2 brake hoses leaking and replaced them and the governor. Unfortunately, it still leaked to 0 in a couple of days. Until I installed the mechanical gauges the only way to read pressure was to have the ignition on. It looks I have my work cut out for me. I have a much better understanding of how things are supposed to work. The compressor feeds the dryer, which feeds the front and rear tanks. Since the check valve in the front tank is bad, it appears as one big tank. It all makes sense now. I hope I can access the check valve without dropping the tank, but I’m prepared to drop it if necessary. I’ll post my findings.

Ok, I have a much better understanding now. I think I’ll start with the shuttle valve since it’s the easiest to get to. I hope I can get to this tomorrow. I’ll post the results. Thanks again

Thanks. It’s interesting that they specify a 1/4 inch drive, 1/2 inch deep well socket, but then you use a 1/4 inch to 3/8 adapter and extensions. I wonder why you just done use 1/4 or 3/8 for the entire process. I’ll do it the way they say. I’ll try the flare wrench trick, too. My line routing is the same. I’ve attached the schematic I got from REV. I had assumed that since I didn’t see bubbles, that the valve was ok. But, I guess it can be stuck internally and not show signs or a leak. I’m still trying to understand the whole wet/dry setup. Why do they call it a wet tank when it comes from an air dryer (not trying to be a wise guy). Also, there is a connection from the wet tank to the rear tank, so I don’t know why there’s a line from the dry tank to the rear tank, too. 18623342_B (Schematic Pneumatics DEKA 43ft) Model (1).pdf

Frank, Thanks. I looked at the tank and it does have plugs in the side of both the wet and dry sides. Do you know which side I would remove to access the internal valve? I might be able to access it without dropping the tank, but it doesn’t look all that hard to remove it. I need to figure out how to remove the large (5/8)lines. I tried pressing down with an open end wrench, but that didn’t release the line. I might try twisting it with a pair of pliers first. Here’s a photo of my front tank looking fore to aft. The wet side is to the right and dry side is to the left. On the wet side, the 5/8 hose runs to the rear tank. I plan on making my ramps tomorrow, so I’ll be able to slide under and look at the rear tank area. There are no valves like what you’ve posted anywhere up front.

I have a leak(s) in the air system and am wondering if anyone has an idea as to where I should start. I have sprayed soapy water on the front tank, treadle valve and all hoses and connections that I can reach. I need to get the coach up on blocks to access the rear tank and surrounding area. Listed below are the results of my various tests. Note: I started a thread a couple of weeks ago regarding oil in the air tanks. I changed out the World American filter to a WABCO oil coalescing filter and it looks like that fixed the problem . I will wait awhile before I go back to that thread and report success (or whether I have to rebuild my compressor ). Parking brake pops at 30 PSI 30 PSI - 125 PSI 1:55 Compressor cut out 125 PSI Compressor cut in 104 PSI Engine off, parking brake off, service brakes on, drops from 110 PSI to 70 PSI front, 50 PSI rear in 2 minutes Engine off, parking brake off, starting pressure 110 PSI, at 1:50 100 PSI, at 4:00 90 PSI, at 6:30 80 PSI Engine running, parking brake off, service brakes on, starting pressure 112 PSI, drops to 103 PSI in 20 seconds, compressor cuts in Engine running, parking brake on, starting pressure 113, after 2 minutes no change (still 113) Engine running, parking brake off, service brakes off, starting pressure 113 PSI, drops to 107 in 1 minute, at 1:40 drops to 104 and compress cuts in Open bottom valve near generator, black hose to dry side of front tank, both tanks drain to 0 Open top valve near generator, red hose to wet side of front tank, both tanks drop to 0. Open rear tank drain, front tank holds starting pressure (120 PSI), rear tank drops to 0 Based on these tests, I have no way of draining only the front tank.

I just purchased one of these. Prior to this I had a step ladder, but it takes up too much space and is a pain to get out of the compartment. I made a test run with this yesterday and it works great to access the top part of the factory ladder. I don’t know if I can lean this against the windshield to clean the glass, though. With the step ladder I was able to reach and clean most of the windshield .

Looking at the Winegard site, the Shaw Traveler model is SK 7003, the Dish/Bell model is Sk 7000. It might not be as simple as changing the LNB/Feed. I’m pretty sure you will need a different indoor unit (IDU). Sometimes they are called controllers. A call to Winegard should answer your questions. Ask them is you can convert the 7003 to a 7000. Before going too far into this upgrade project, you might want to make sure the base unit is good. Try to acquire a satellite. Even if you’re out of the footprint, the Traveler should start the acquisition process - moving up and down and right and left and dish skewing. If it does all of this, the motor system is good. You’ll need to get the controller and appropriate LNB, provided Winegard says it can be modified/upgraded.

Look at the first post in this thread. I installed 2 of the World American filters in 5000 miles. I never had oil in the tanks before using them. If you look at the filter, there’s no evidence of oil, so I don’t understand. All I can tell you is I replaced the World American filter with the WABCO coalescing filter and now I don’t have any oil in the tanks. Another thing is I could hear the desiccant rolling around in the WABCO filter. I don’t recall hearing the desiccant in the World American filters. I’m definitely sold on the WABCO filters. Now I have to track down my air leaks.

Apparently the 4324102227 is the “basic “ model. Please see the attached screenshot of comparisons from the Meritor site. I purchased the R950068A, oil coalescing version last week from Amazon for $85. So far I haven’t had a drop of oil in my tanks. I’ve drained them several times. The R950068A is being replaced by 4329012482.

Here’s a AAA battery eliminator on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Lenink-Battery-Supply-Adapter-Replace/dp/B0873Y5MQ5/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?hvadid=616990830620&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1027026&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11514644225939710045&hvtargid=kwd-306177200139&hydadcr=24632_13611814&keywords=aaa%2Bbattery%2Beliminator&qid=1682728601&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFIQ1oyWVU3VEFHU0QmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMjkzMjhIMEo0SExXUEZJODQmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDQ5OTMzNTFZNkJWTU9QQ0NONFYmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1 You could probably pick up a 3 volt DC transformer and make one yourself a lot cheaper, but this is clean and easy. You might want to check eBay, too.

The standard WABCO filter is R950011, new part number is 4324102227 The oil coalescing filter is R950068A, new part number is 4329012482 Either filter fits and will work. The oil coalescing filter is supposed to be able to trap and remove oil mist. Of course it costs more. Based on my situation, I ordered the coalescing one and installed it yesterday. We’ll see how great it is. $85 on Amazon.

Upon further investigation, the port wasn’t plugged. It has a small brass cap with a very fine screen- from a distance it looked like a plug.

That sounds like an easier solution than changing out the compressor. It’s certainly worth a try. Thanks.

While looking at the compressor I noticed the governor has the exhaust port plugged. Everything I’ve read online says that is a big no-no. I’ve circled the exhaust port in the attached photo. I don’t think that would have anything to do with excess oil, but I picked up a replacement and will install it tomorrow. Dan

Tom, Thanks for the info. Understand the safety and DOT concerns. I live near 2 tunnels that go under rivers here in Virginia and you must stop and tell them your propane valves are turned off. Depending on the operator they will either let you give a thumbs up, or they make you get out and they verify your valve is off and write down your plate number. Here is a C&P from the Baltimore Tunnel. Makes no sense to me. You can transport 100 pounds if it’s in 10 containers, but you can’t transport 11 pounds in 1 container. Vehicles carrying bottled propane gas in excess of 10 pounds per container (maximum of 10 containers), bulk gasoline, explosives, significant amounts of radioactive materials, and other hazardous materials are prohibited from using both the Fort McHenry and Baltimore Harbor Tunnels.

Jim, Thanks for the info. The coach only has 45,000 miles, so the compressor should still have a lot of life in it. I definitely need to do some reading and reading. I’ll try to look at the line going to the dryer today and post the results.

I was able to get “eyes on” the compressor. It is a Bendix TU-FLO 750. From what I’ve been able to find on the web, these are a pretty common item. It look like they weigh 53 pounds, so that’s certainly manageable. It seems like the pricing for these things is all over the map. I see rebuilt ones and new ones ranging anywhere from $600 to $4,000.00. They also sell rebuild kits, so I don’t know if this is something I can tackle myself. I need to do a lot more research. Dan

Tom, Thanks for the detailed information. I looked at the tank and it has Manchester labels on it. I have attached another photo and as you can see, the compartment is pretty much open to the environment, so I don’t think there will be any ventilation issues. If I decide to remove the tank, my plan is to get some plastic storage containers and put my spare air bags and any other items that I’ve been carrying “just in case”. I would mount and secure the 5 gallon tank vertically on the door side of this compartment. I realize I’d have to disconnect and remove the tank if I ever needed to access the stuff stored in the compartment. The compartment is 5 feet deep before it hits the back wall of the Aquahot compartment on the passenger side. The door is 16 inches wide, but the compartment is actually 22 inches wide.

You’re probably right about it being Chinese. I don’t see any evidence of oil in the dryer , unless I’m missing something. Look at the picture, there’s no sign of oil. I’m hoping it’s not the compressor. I’ll take a look today to see how difficult it is to get off. I’m sure it will be pretty heavy. I ordered a genuine WABCO oil coalescing filter today. I’ll see if that will keep the oil out of the tanks. My compressor gets air from the air cleaner. I attached the page from the Maxxforce service manual.

I don’t have a problem with the bay being exposed to road grime, etc. I plan on storing items I hope I’ll never need (Spare air bags, etc) in plastic storage containers. I can’t enclose the compartment and put a door on the other side because that’s where the Aquahot is installed. I won’t have full pass through because the Aquahot is installed on the other side. The only propane equipment I have is a 2 burner cooktop inside. I do have an external propane connection that I’ve never used, but could connect a grill or something else. The portable tank will be easy to refill and I can carry a spare if I think I’ll need it. No one has addressed whether I can remove the regulator. I guess it reduces the pressures going to the cooktop, but if I connect a grill, they have their own regulator. Can it work with 2 regulators?

I don’t drain the air tanks very often, but I noticed a while ago that I was getting oil in my air tanks. After some thought, I’m wondering if there’s a problem with the dryer filters I bought. In hindsight , I don’t recall ever having any oil when I drained the tanks before changing the filter. I have no idea how long the “original to me” filter was in, but I’ve put 2 of these World America filters on I. 5000 miles. I thought maybe the first one was defective, but looking at the filter, I don’t see any evidence of oil residue (photo attached). Is it possible that the dryer is defective (stuck check valve)? Also, I’ve heard of oil coalescing filters. I’m wondering if I should try one of those? Dan D. 2012 Diplomat

I am thinking of changing out my 39 gal original equipment propane tank to a standard 5 gallon “grill type” tank. I have an Aquahot and convection microwave, so the only propane equipment I have is the 2 burner cooktop. I guess Monaco just used the same propane tank regardless of what equipment you have. I will use the space for extra storage. I have done some calculations and here’s what I’ve come up with. The 39 gallon tank can only hold 31.2 gallons of propane. At 4.11 lbs/gal, the full tank (which it current is) of propane will weigh about 128 lb (propane only). I can’t find any specs on the tank (Manchester brand), but I figure an empty 5 gallon tank weighs about 20 lbs. I am deducing that the empty 39 gal tank should weight about 160 lbs. The total weight will be somewhere around 290 lbs. I will get a couple of guys to help me get the tank out. I’ll try to sell it. If I can’t get a decent price, I’ll put it on the porch and connect it to the grill - it should last a long time. I’m wondering if anyone has done this conversion. Are my weight calculations correct? Lastly, do I need the regulator in the attached photo? Any thoughts or comments are welcome. Dan D 2012 Diplomat