dandick66

Looking at your first photo, the soot looks a lot worse on the left side. That is where the CAC hoses connect. That could very well be your problem. You can open the small door on the left and see the hoses. Could also possibly be your wastegate is stuck - (Disclaimer- I have no firsthand experience with the wastegate, just what I’ve heard.) like CBR046 suggested, change the fuel filters. It looks like you already have the engine cover off, so you can get to the secondary filter easier. However, I would start with the primary/water separator. I have a 2012 43DFT with the Maxxforce 10. I have had no major problems. As you probably know, there are several different Maxxforce engines and the 10 has not had any of the problems that have the Maxxforce a bad name. Good luck and keep us posted.

That is great news. Have a safe trip home. Dan & Denise Dick

I am running Toyo M144 295/80R/22.5 on my 2012 Diplomat 43DFT. Fronts are set at 105 and drive and tag are at 85. I am also using the TST TPMS. I drove back from the Tampa Gathering last week. The ambient temp was around 60-70 for most of the first day drive. Pressures rose to 125 and 100. I was surprised that the pressures went up that much. The second days was raining and in the 40’s. Temperatures did not increase as much, but still rose between 10 and 15 PSI.

We hope the surgery is successful. We are praying for you and Debbie. Dan & Denise Dick

We have a 2012 Diplomat 43DFT. Purchased December 2017. When we bought it we noticed that the slide had rubbed on the trim, both front and rear. We had it rub and scrape shortly after we purchased the coach. Here is how we operate the slide. 1) coach running in travel mode. 2) open front door and a large side window 3) extend or retract slide 4) level coach. Since we started following the above procedure, we have not experienced the rubbing/ scraping.

As others have stated, your problem is the USB adapter. Since you have a basic understanding of electronics, you know that the adapter you installed is taking 12 VDC (nominal) and reducing it to 5 VDC for the USB. The adapter is obviously junk and the display is not reading accurately. Furthermore, the electronics that are reducing the 12 VDC to 5 VDC are introducing the interference you see on your display. I think you’ll also find that this device is causing interference that you can hear on the radio. Bottom line is get rid of the USB adapter. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

UPDATE 02 FEB 2022 Well, the AGS was performing as it should, but I felt the batteries were going down way too fast. I turned the battery disconnect switches and did not see a great reduction in voltage drop over a 24 hour period. I shut off most of the circuit breakers, but again, not a big difference. So, I turned ff the inverter (Magnum MS-2812) at the remote panel, and after 6 days my batteries are still at 12.2 volts. I’ve come to the conclusion that the inverter must not be affected by the battery disconnect switches and/or I have a substantial load that I’m not aware of. Batteries are 4 each US L16HC (430 AH) and are less than 3 years old. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

Scotty, You are doing a great job! I like the site as is and don’t see any need for changes. Keep up the good work. See you in Tampa. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

Get ready to do a lot of research. Mine went up when I changed from Virginia to Florida, too. Also, I know that Progressive “reviews” accounts every couple of years and they might change your rating. I called them and was told the ratings go from “A” to “R” (I think). Mine had changed from a “B” to a “C”, so my rates went up. The reason mine went from “B” to “C” was because I hadn’t had a new car loan in the past 7 years and “studies show that drivers who are making car payments are better drivers than those who aren’t “. What a bunch of crap. I found out they use information from your credit report to determine your rate. My credit score was very high, but it’s the “extra” information that they use. I found out that they are not allowed to raise your rate based on credit report information. However, they can disallow discounts. That’s how they work get around the law. If you look at your policy you’ll see discounts off the total premium.

Not sure what you mean by “hesitates”. If you mean intermittent, then more than likely the problem is dirty contacts in the ignition switch or the starter relay/solenoid. I’ve attached a schematic that should help you. I don’t think Monaco changed much in the starting circuitry and color codes. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

Take one off the other side and go to a truck stop or chrome store. They have a variety of sizes and styles. You just have to match up the number of tabs. Worst case you’ll have to find one with tabs that are close and take a Dremel and grind off some metal. I have had to do that a couple of times. I actually cut a “spare” the last time. Now I also use a little bit of silicone around the tabs and I haven’t lost one since doing that (fingers crossed). Dan D, 2012 Diplomate 43DFT

Thanks for all the responses. I put it in storage on Tuesday and I will go look at it tomorrow. It will only be there a couple of weeks before I use it, then back in storage for a couple of weeks. I’ll check voltage levels and generator hours tomorrow to see if it’s run yet. I do have the AGS set to run for 2.5 hours. Dan D

I had to put my coach in a storage lot for a few weeks. Unfortunately, there is no shore power available. At home I’ve have always had the coach plugged into a power source to keep the batteries charged. I was wondering if I should turn off the battery disconnect switches. Right now I have the AGS enabled to start if the batteries drop to 12.1 volts. I’m not sure if that’s the best solution. I am able to check it a couple of times a week. I just don’t know how fast the batteries will go down and if I should trust the AGS. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

Richard, That’s a beautiful coach. Congratulations on the purchase and I’m sure you’ll enjoy it. Dan

The motor should have a part number somewhere on it. Once you remove it you’ll be able to see it. Worst case, you may need to change out the squirrel cage. They are normally secured with an Allen screw. You may even have to swap out the backing plate. Hopefully, you’ll be able to find an exact fit replacement. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

Well, I installed the new Trimark keypad. Running the wiring harness from the dash wasn’t too bad, but in hindsight I think I would use a pin removal tool and take the pins out of the connector to make firewall penetration easier. Like Scotty, I was nervous about cutting a hole in the side of the coach. Trimark does not leave a very big sealing area around the hole. I took that into consideration when cutting the hole and actually cut it too small, so I had to enlarge it. Unfortunately, I made it a little too big and when I inserted the keypad it was a little loose. I probably could have used a sealant , but I decided to use a 3D printed bezel.

I have only tried to use my AGS one time and it didn’t start. I had assumed that I had the start voltage set too low (11.0 volts as recommended in the manual). Anyway, this week I decided to see if it works. I went to the AGS menu on the remote and executed a test. The generator started and ran for about a minute as it was supposed to. Next, I set the start temperature to 65 degrees and put warm air on the thermostat and watched the temperature rise above 65 and the generator started as it was supposed to. Next, I set the starting voltage to 12.2 volts. I let the batteries run down to 12 volts and the generator did not start. I called Magnum tech support and they had me do some troubleshooting and determined that my AGS board was bad. The part number is ME-AGS-N and the cost is anywhere from$200-$250. Magnum doesn’t sell direct to consumers. Well, as I sat around Friday night thinking about this board, I remember seeing 3 small relays on it. So, I went out and tapped on each relay a few times with a screwdriver handle. Sure enough, Saturday morning when the voltage dropped below 12.2, the generator started. Since then, it has started and stopped on low voltage for 6 cycles, so I think I “fixed “ the problem. I decided to get new relays and solder them onto the board, but the relays have been manufacturer discontinued with no compatible replacement. I found this hard to believe, since these are PCB mounted miniature 12 volt relays. I’ve attached a photo of the board. The relays are Potter and Brumfield T7NS5D1-12. TE Connectivity (formerly known as Tyco) are the ones who told me there is no replacement. I did find some relays on Amazon that I think will work so I ordered them. If anyone on here has an idea or opinion, please chime in. I am not 100 percent confident how long my “fix” will last. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT.

I got my first replacement directly from REV. I think it was about $35. It stayed on for one trip, so I started looking at truck stops and chrome stores. Lots of people said to just take the hub cap and they can match it. I stopped at a bunch of different stores and no one could match mine. I finally made a cardboard template of my hubcap area, including the notches. What I finally found that worked for me was a 6 tab universal cover. I still had to take my Dremel tool and modify 2 of the notches l. I then took a small amount of silicone sealant and it holds great. I used Grand General part number 10770. Cost was $6.99. I actually made a spare, too, but have not had to use it yet. My coach is a 2012 Diplomat 43DFT. Roadmaster RR10R. Dan

Scotty, Thanks for the quick reply. That is exactly the way I was thinking of doing it, but I thought I’d ask first. Thanks again, Dan

Scotty, I ordered the keypad for my 2012 Diplomat and Trimark told me it is plug and play. Once I get it I’m going to plug it into the Trimark module and make sure everything works. I have a couple of questions for you regarding the installation. What tool did you use to cut the hole? What brand/type of foam sealant did you use? Thanks, Dan D, 2012 Diplomat

Here is a copy of my oil analysis report. I860527-JGLUBR88881286.pdf

I have had great experiences with JG labs. The owner is an RV’er and he is very knowledgeable and accessible. All reports are saved for trend analysis and they’ll let you know when to send another sample or change the oil. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT, Maxxforce 10

I recently purchased the Micro Air thermostat for my 2012 Diplomat with 3 rooftop Coleman/Airxcel heat pumps and Aquahot. I installed the thermostat on a Saturday and could not get it working. I emailed Micro Air and they got back to me quickly. They had me do some troubleshooting and had me send it back to them. They sent me a new thermostat and installation went well, but I had an error in one of the zones. They did a firmware upgrade and the error cleared. I like the thermostat and do not have any complaints. I do have an observation I’d like to point out. The image of the thermostat in their ads makes the display look much larger than it actually is. The display is 2 in x 3 in. The touch screen is a little difficult to operate, but if using the app with a phone or tablet, everything is great. I bought this thermostat because I was having intermittent problems with the Coleman thermostat and the cost of the Micro Air is about the same as the Coleman. I didn’t want to take a chance on having the Coleman crap out on me and be without heat or air. I will keep the Coleman as a ready spare. I do wish I would have waited a few weeks so I could save the 15 percent!

If you have an old VCR or DVD player that has coax output just connect the output to the campground coax connector. Turn it on and you should get something on channel 3 or 4 on your tvs.

I purchased the Measy FHD676 wireless HD kit on Amazon a couple of years ago. The cost was about $120. It works fine, but I have had to reboot/reset a few times. I attribute that to the fact that we don’t use the motor home all the time. We are running it from the front to the bedroom. I know there are coax to HDMI converters for a lot less, but you might need to buy 2 of them since you will be converting HDMI to coax at the front and then changing from coax to HDMI at the remote tv. I also bought the Wally receiver since the remote uses RF instead of IR, so we can change channels from the bedroom. Running an HDMI cable is the best solution, but it might be a very difficult install. Dan