dandick66

If you have an old VCR or DVD player that has coax output just connect the output to the campground coax connector. Turn it on and you should get something on channel 3 or 4 on your tvs.

I purchased the Measy FHD676 wireless HD kit on Amazon a couple of years ago. The cost was about $120. It works fine, but I have had to reboot/reset a few times. I attribute that to the fact that we don’t use the motor home all the time. We are running it from the front to the bedroom. I know there are coax to HDMI converters for a lot less, but you might need to buy 2 of them since you will be converting HDMI to coax at the front and then changing from coax to HDMI at the remote tv. I also bought the Wally receiver since the remote uses RF instead of IR, so we can change channels from the bedroom. Running an HDMI cable is the best solution, but it might be a very difficult install. Dan

JJ, Thanks for the info. I will probably build a set next week. I know I have a leak under there somewhere. Now I’ll be able to safely look for it. Dan

Those ramps look nice. Do you have the lengths/dimensions for them? Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

I have a 2012 Diplomat with a 100 gallon tank. Three years ago when returning from a trip the low fuel light came on. I told myself I had plenty of fuel to make it home. Well, about 1/2 mile from home I got a check engine light. I continued and made it home. The next day I went to move the coach and it stalled in the driveway. The code was for low fuel pressure. I added 5 gallons of fuel and primed the pump and all was well. I drove to the fuel station and it took 98 gallons. I will never push the limits again. One lesson I learned is that now I level the coach when I’m refueling. This makes a big difference in the amount of fuel you get in the tank. I figure it was about 10-15 gallons. Dan D

Like Richard said, it was/is from high iron content in the water supply. You can try soaking the filter canisters in a vinegar and water solution to remove the iron stains. Put new filter cartridges in and you should be good. As far as the toilet stains, you can try vinegar or CLR. Dan D

Steve, You might want to pump the brakes or open the air drain valve to lower air pressure. Then start the engine and go to the rear of the coach and listen for the burst of air when the dryer discharges. The desiccant cartridge will be where the burst of air came from.

Not sure if this will help or not. On my 2012 Diplomat, F29 is the fuse for the dash A/C. I’ve attached photos and you can see the relay for the affected circuit, too (VCN). There probably isn’t a lot of difference between your friend’s 2011 and my 2012 . Although it’s not specifically listed, it’s possible that the relay and /or fuse is tied into the dash power. I hope this helps. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat

I have the 400D model, so it only has 2 pumps and 4 zones. Pump 1 controls zone 1 and pump 2 controls zones 2,3, and 4 and is the circ pump for hot water. My front vents were blowing cool intermittently, or so I thought. I checked everything and could not find anything wrong. I changed the check valves and the fluid, too. What I finally found was that the wiring to the pumps from the AH control board were reversed. As long as all zones were demanding heat via the thermostat it worked fine. However, when zones 2-4 were satisfied and zone 1 demanded heat, the “wrong” pump would come on, but the “right” fans would come on. It’s a little difficult to explain, but just double check your wiring. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

About 6 months after I purchased my new to me 2012 Diplomat in 2017, I purchased an oil analysis kit that was in the clearance rack at Camping World. When I received the test report back it had a large red “stop “ symbol and indicated that my aluminum was at a critical level and the oil should be changed ASAP. I changed the oil and put in Shell Rotella T6 synthetic. After I changed the oil I did a lot of internet research on oil analysis. I found JG Lubricant Services and contacted them. I actually spoke to the owner and he is an RV’er. He told me I should send a sample in at about 2500 miles and get a good baseline to develop trend analysis data. I sent in a sample at about 2500 miles and my aluminum was 104 and was at “1” on a scale of 0-4, with 0-1 being normal, 2-3 above normal and 4 is critical. The report they send is online and contains more information than I can understand and it also has notes. Each time the note says to drive 2500 and submit another sample. My aluminum was at 64 for the last sample and I’m told that the high level on the original sample was possibly due to break-in. The engine only had 27,000 miles when I submitted the first sample. I’ve now gone close to 12,000 miles since the oil was changed and will submit another sample in about 2,000 miles. Once I get the report that indicates it’s time to change the oil, I will have developed my trend and will be able to submit samples less frequently. As far as synthetic vs Dino, my understanding is that synthetic is much better for cold weather starts. I have mixed feelings and will buy synthetic when I can get a good price, but still use Dino in some of my vehicles. I know there are some oils that have a high zinc content and they are recommended for older engines with solid lifters. I was surprised to see that Mobil 1 had a relatively high zinc content. Here is the link to JG Lubricant Services. https://jglubricantservices.com/home.html Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT, Maxxforce 10

On my 2012 Diplomat I was able to see the motor and get the manufacturer and part number. It was accessible from the front with the generator extended. I thought my motor was going bad, but I disconnected the linkage and greased it and everything works fine now.

To remove the drawer above, slide it all the way out until it stops. Then look at the slides and there will probably be a little plastic latch that stops the drawer. They will be in both sides. Move the latches and continue to pull the drawer out.

Congratulations on beating the cancer. I can’t help with the wiring diagram, but like CBR046 said, if the pressure is low, the compressor won’t kick in. Does your blower work? If so, the problem may very well be low pressure. It sounds like the coach hasn’t been used in 2-3 years and you probably have a leak. Since your coach is a 1994, you might still be using R12. If that’s the case, you will need to take it to a shop because R12 is no longer available. They will probably be able to do a R134 conversion. If your system uses R 134, you can pick up a can of refrigerant with a hose and gauge at an auto parts store or Walmart for about $30. It may not be enough refrigerant for the system, but it might be enough to get the compressor to kick in. Gd luck. Dan D

Here in the Communistwealth of Virginia when you take a vehicle in for inspection, the first thing they do is scrape the old sticker, then start the inspection. The thought process is that even though you had a current/valid inspection sticker that your vehicle is now out of compliance. I think the place you took it should give you your money back in the interest of good customer relations. If they don’t, let them know the internet has many followers… Dan D

I looked under the covers and there is no evidence of any gaskets ever being there. Thanks for the idea of looking up the original docs. I’ll try that and see if I can find anything. Thanks. Dan 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

I am wondering if I need to add the foam insulation to my 3 rooftop units? As you can see, the condensers do not have the foam insulation, but since everything else is encased in sheet metal I don't know if the insulation is required. The cover has both top and side vents, too. These are Coleman/Airxcel units. Looking for advice/recommendations. Thanks. Dan D 2012 Diplomat 43 DFT

I noticed my wipers were barely moving. When I got home I disconnected, cleaned and lubed the linkage. Wipers work fine now. I did find the motor info and saved it just in case. Here it is… https://www.amequipment.com/shop/230-series-dc-gear-wiper-motor-4yyt5-9pm67 Dan D 2012 Diplomate 43DFT

I’ve been following this thread with interest. I have a 2012 Diplomat with the Maxxforce 10. The torque is rated at 1250 lbs/ft at 1300 RPM and 405 HP at 2000 RPM. I’ve driven primarily on the east coast. The biggest mountains/hills here are nothing like those out west. The biggest one near me is Afton Mountain on 64 near Charlottesville, VA. There are some decent mountains in Pennsylvania while going to NY. Should I be driving for max HP or max torque? Dan D

I’ve always heard that if you see a black snake you won’t see mice. I guess it’s a matter of personal preference. Snakes can be scary when you see them, but they won’t chew wires, either.

I never knew the compressor was energized all the time until I walked by the coach one morning and heard it running. I tried to turn it off, but nothing worked. It ended up blowing the fuse, so I cut the wire going to the pressure switch and put t a switch (see photos). Now I leave the switch off most of the time. When I’m at a site, I will energize it every few days and let the compressor run if it needs to. I need to find my air leak, but that’s a story for another day.

Richard, I think you’re spot on regarding the house battery voltage dropping enough to prohibit the Aquahot from igniting. When we went to Florida this winter we stopped in North Carolina and spent the night in a Hobby Lobby parking lot. I have never used the AGS on my generator, but figured this was a good opportunity to see how well it worked. I looked at the manual to see what the settings should be. It indicated the default start voltage was 11.0. I thought this was too low, but thought that the manufacturer knows what is best. Well, I woke up around 2 AM and it was cold. The Aquahot diesel light was off. I turned the switch on and off and the burner ignited and all was good. When I got up in the morning the Aquahot was off again. I attempted to started the generator and it just clicked. I hit the battery boost button and it fired right up. I ran it until the batteries fully charged. Reading the Aquahot manual, it is very clear that you need at least 12 volts for the igniter. If the voltage is low, the low voltage circuitry disables the ignition and you have to either hit the reset button or turn the switch off and back on. What I think happened in my case was the battery voltage was probably right at 12 volts. I think the residential refrigerator compressor energized and temporarily drew the battery voltage below 12 volts. At the same time, the Aquahot attempted to start and did not have the 12 volt minimum, so it went into fault mode. When I got up at 2, the voltage must have been at or above 12 volts, so the Aquahot fired up. Of course, I have no way of proving my theory, but it’s the only thing that I can think of as to why the Aquahot went into fault mode. I don’t know why the Magnum manual has a default starting voltage of 11.0. The generator will not start at 11 volts. I think I will change the starting voltage to 12.1. The manual indicates that if the voltage drops to, or below the starting voltage for 2 minutes the generator will start. I think this will allow some tolerance for the Aquahot to be “happy”. In the meantime, I might try to see if I can determine how much the voltage drops when the refrigerator compressor kicks on. Dan

Scotty, You might want to look into Advantech instead of marine plywood. I’ve used it in the past and this stuff is waterproof. In fact I had a few small pieces setting outside for several years and there is no swelling or deterioration. Dan D

I try to run straight diesel whenever I can. I can get it locally and whenever I’m planning a trip I look at the Love’s and TA/Petro website. It lists the truck stops and whether they are straight diesel or the blend of biodiesel. I know they update the info because I’ve seen locations where the blend has changed. I’ve run 20 percent when it was the only choice. Didn’t have any problems. I bought some of the DieselKleen and Howe’s additives and put them in whenever I refuel (if I remember). I’ve talked to fellow RVers and truckers and most say they don’t worry about whether they run biodiesel or straight diesel. I wonder how much power/performance/fuel mileage is lost with biodiesel? Dan D 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

FIXED! I double checked the connections and tried pushing down the control valve stems and heard the “click” from both burners. I reassembled the unit and everything works fine now. Richard, thanks for the help. Dan D

That did the trick! Those plates did have what looked like black silicone sealant holding them down. I can hear the left burner “click” when I push the knob stem, but it doesn’t sound like a strong spark. I get nothing from the right burner. I was able to lift the whole top assembly up. I think I’ll have to remove the screws from the bottom to see if I can access the controls and try to figure out why I’m not getting spark.