dandick66

That did the trick! Those plates did have what looked like black silicone sealant holding them down. I can hear the left burner “click” when I push the knob stem, but it doesn’t sound like a strong spark. I get nothing from the right burner. I was able to lift the whole top assembly up. I think I’ll have to remove the screws from the bottom to see if I can access the controls and try to figure out why I’m not getting spark.

Well, I got the knobs off and removed the screws, but the spill plates won’t budge. Don’t know if there is some type of adhesive that is holding them to the glass surface.

I can’t get to the underneath part. There is cabinetry around it and it sets into the countertop. It looks like it will lift up, but like I said in the original post, I’m hesitant to try to pry on it.

The igniters stopped working on my princess gourmet 2277-1000 propane cooktop. I checked the fuses and they are good. I can start it manually and it works fine. I can’t figure out how to lift it up to check the wiring. I am hesitant to pry on it since it is a glass top. Has anyone had any experience with these units? I’ve attached a photo of the unit and the parts list. Dan D 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

I have a 2012 Diplomat and I checked with REV and I thinking they wanted about $25 for one. I thought the price was way too high so I started looking online and could not find an exact fit. I finally made a cardboard template of the notch alignment and ended up buying a 6 notch “universal” and used my Drexel tool to modify one of the notches to make it fi. $6.95 at almost any truck stop. I also used some silicone adhesive to help hold it in place.

Mine looks like that, but is the Pathway X2. It works great and serves as a backup for the Traveler. I’ve used it several times where the Travelers line of sight is blocked. The nice thing about the Pathway x2 is that it picks up both the Eastern and Western arc birds.

I’m wondering if a small UPS would solve the problem. I know they have ones that have PSW output, but I don’t know if they would be happy with MSW input. There are all different types of UPS, some switch over when power is lost, others constantly “clean” the power.

Does your audio system support Audio Return Channel (ARC)? If so, your Samsung probably has ARC. Make sure your HDMI cable supports ARC, too. You may have to look at some settings in the TV, Audio system, or both. You should be able to set it up so that the TV remote will control the speakers.

The company is MicroAir. I saw them mentioned both here and on IRV2. My Coleman thermostat is on the blink and I contacted these guys. They have thermostats for Coleman and Dometic. Their website is pretty good and has a model selector. They have a replacement for the Domestic multi zone and the Duotherm 5 button. Unfortunately they don’t have the replacement for my Coleman 8000 series multi zone yet. They said it should be out in 1-2 months. They have a pretty good plan to provide replacements for most of the RV thermostats. One other thing they said is they are working on Bluetooth room sensors. I think they will be nice as you will be able to “control you own zones”. Their website is www.MicroAir.net

I have been in contact with Micro Air and their Duo Therm replacement thermostat is out now. Here is their timeline for the Coleman thermostats. Coleman 9000 series 1-2 weeks (multi zone) Coleman 8000 series 1-2 mos. (multi zone). As soon as this come out I will be replacing my Coleman 8330D3311. website is www.microair.net

I used “chain type” vice grips. I clamped them around the shock and they will turn until they wedge against the frame. Once you get the top nut loose, go ahead and remove the bottom eye bolt. You should be able to turn the shock by hand and remove it. As far as installing the new shocks, I just tightened them until the rubber bushing compressed. Note: look closely at the bushings. There is a slight difference and 1 goes on the bottom and the other on the top of the stud. Dan D 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

The new site is really great. Thanks to all who made it work and keep it working. I know it’s not an easy task, but just know that your hard work is appreciated. I attended my first “gathering “ last February. Was looking forward to this year’s, but the virus has taken care of that. Let’s all hope this thing ends soon so we can get back to a somewhat normal lifestyle again. Dan D 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

I noticed a rattle a while ago that I didn’t think I noticed before. It was intermittent and worse/louder on a bumpy road when going slow. It sounded like it was behind the driver and low. I thought maybe it was a loose shock because that was the type of sound it made. I figured out it was the Mooryde slide assembly. The rollers were bouncing in the track and making that sound. Now that I know what it is I don’t worry about it.

Merry Christmas and thanks to all. Be safe. Dan D

I noticed the tires on my 2012 Diplomat were rubbing on the wheel wells. I changed the shocks and no longer have the problem. I think they only rubbed when porpoising.

There are many different OEM TPMS variations. For the most part, you cannot just replace the batteries. The battery is molded into the valve stem assembly. Prices for replacement sensors are all over the map. I have heard some GM ones costing $150 each. Of course the dealer will tell you that you need to replace all 4, so with labor it can approach $800. I did a little research and found that TPMS batteries last anywhere from 3-10 years. That info was no help. I know that in 2019 a sensor went bad in my 2009 F150 and the Motorcraft part was around $45. I purchased an aftermarket set of 4 on eBay for $20. Took the truck to Walmart and they installed the replacement for free. The reason they did it for free was because they advertise a $29.95 TPMS replacement service. Well, I had dropped the truck off there a week earlier and after waiting all day they called and said they could not replace my sensor because it was “special “. Apparently, there are some “one size fits all” solutions out there. My final thought: I would much rather have the aftermarket system where the sensors thread onto the valve stem. They are cheap, you can easily replace the battery and you don’t have to take it to a tire shop and have the tire broke down to work on the sensor. The downside is they are easily removed - meaning someone could steal them. When the Feds mandated TPMS in 2008 I thought it was a great thing. I now realize it was yet another thing that only the dealer or a shop could work on, as not many do it yourselfers have a means of dismounting tires. Dan

I bought my 2012 Diplomat 43DFT with tag (RR10R) in December 2017. This is my first diesel pusher and I had never heard of porpoising. I think the coach had 22,000 miles on the odometer when I got it. Well, after nearly getting bounced out of the seat a few times, I discovered that must be what is called porpoising. This spring I purchased Bilsteins and replaced all 10 of the OEM Monroe’s. The ride difference was a night and day difference. The Monroe’s were totally trashed. I could easily compress them with little to no effort. Needless to say, I’m sold on the Bilstein’s. Dan

I know I’m responding late to this, but I wanted to say I agree with everyone about Winegard’s customer support. The only reason I had mine repaired is because of the amount of money I spent on the motorhome and didn’t want to have a “roof ornament”. I decided I would get the Traveler repaired 1 time and if it works for a long time, I’ll be ok. When it craps out I’ll probably go for the RF Mogul. To add insult to injury, here is a screenshot of an email I received from them the other day.

Sorry to hear you can’t get it fixed. One thing you might want to try before you buy the RF Mogul.... I know LNB failures are rare, but you might want to make sure the LNB is getting voltage. It is either 12 or 18 volts DC (I can’t remember). It sounds like the IDU is “talking “ to the antenna, otherwise you would be getting an error indicating it could not find the antenna. I hate to see you she’ll out money for a whole new system if it’s something minor. Something else to consider is picking up a Winegard Pathway X2. You can use it in place of the SK1000 and it will receive both Eastern and Western Arc satellites. I have one and it comes in handy when you’re in locations where the Western are satellites are blocked.

Unbelievable that they won’t fix it. I find it hard to believe that they don’t “have the parts” to repair it. I doubt they made any major changes to the turret. I know you already talked to Winegard, but what exactly are your symptoms? What does the IDU display indicate? Does the antenna assembly raise up and scan? Dan

I run 85 on the rear and tag and 105 on the fronts.

I just looked up my RMA info from when I sent in my unit. My coach is a 2012 and my Winegard Traveler failed in 2018. No where on the form does it ask for a serial number, so I don’t know how they determined your unit was from 2015. I just filled out a form with my credit card info. Repair charge was flat rate of $350. I’m assuming you have the SK1000, right? I would fight them about the 5 year deal. I’ve never heard of anything like that. Try escalating this to a supervisor or someone that can make a decision in your favor. Dan D

If the IDU (Indoor Unit) is indicating no connection, then more than likely there is a problem with the IDU or the wiring from it to the antenna assembly. The IDU needs to “talk” to the antenna before it will start searching for satellite signals. So, there is no need to look at LNBs or their cabling (yet). What Winegard told you about LNB failures is true, they rarely fail. My antenna got stuck in zenith (bird bath) position a couple of years ago and I opened it up and determined on of the motors was bad. I found a replacement motor, but there is some programming that needs to be done inside the assembly. I saw an RJ45 connector, but couldn’t find anything on how to program the assembly. Winegard runs a tight ship that way. They offered no troubleshooting help or assistance - just send the antenna and IDU to them for repair. I bit the bullet and sent it in. Turnaround was pretty quick, less than 2 weeks. Like Dennis H said, try unplugging it and waiting a while. Also, check the connection on the back of the IDU and make sure it is clicking/locking into position. Dan D

I plan on putting up a garage/building of some type, but haven’t made a final decision as to size yet. I am definitely going to follow this thread. I would like to put a pit in, but will need to check local codes first. I am thinking of putting the pit in the front of the building near the entrance. That way I can position the coach over whatever section I want to get under. I figure most of the time I will want to be under the engine area, but with the pit at the front I could pull straight in and stop wherever I want. I realize that if I’m doing something under the middle of the coach that part of it will be outside, but I can live with that. Dan

My RV Comfort .ZC thermostat has been acting weird. It was not allowing me to select certain zones and then it showed the set temp in 1 zone was 161 degrees. I reprogrammed the thermostat and then I received the AC and Aquahot diagram from REV (attached). I also emailed Airxcel/Coleman but they really weren’t a lot of help. I have 3 AC units with heat pumps and an Aquahot. There are 4 zones. If you look at the diagram it indicates that zone 4 is the “AC Brain”. I have no idea what that means. Three of the zones make sense and I programmed them to AC and Gas and Electric heat. Zone 4 has me really confused. The drawing indicates that zone 4 is only the water bay heat from the Aquahot. However, there is a thermostat for zone 4 in the rear bathroom. I programmed zone 4 to only have “Gas Heat”, no AC or eldest. I don’t know if this is correct or not. Does anyone in the group have a similar setup to mine? If so, please look at your thermostat model 8330D331 or 335 and tell me how each zone is programmed. I originally thought my thermostat was defective so I went to the Airxcel/Coleman site and it indicates the thermostat “repair parts only”. Coach is a 2012 Diplomat 43DFT. Dan 2012 Diplomat Heat&AC.pdf