dandick66

It looks like F17 is connected to the NC output of RL4. Since it’s NC, maybe it only get 12 volts when it’s open. Can you get up under the dash with a test light? With the switch off, you should only have power on 1 lug. I just went out and checked mine. F17 has 12 volts with the ignition switch off. When the switch is on, it drops to 0. I lifted the dash pad and the ignition switch is readily accessible. There are only 4 wires on it. Looking from the top, the top terminal is battery and should have 12 volts at all times. The terminal to the left is ignition and should get 12 volts when you turn the switch on. Have you tested that? Alternatively, you could pull all 4 wires and check continuity between the top and left connector. Switch off should show and open, switch on should show a short.

I have a 2012 Diplomat, so more than likely the wiring is the same. When you get the engine to shut off with the disconnect, what happens when you just turn the key to run? (Of course you would need to re-energize cut off switch first). Do you get the gauges to swing, etc? IF you turn the key back to off, do the gauges go to “0”? If it continues to run in the off position, I would leave the switch off and go to the FRB and tap on the top 4 relays with a plastic screwdriver handle and see if the engine stops. VCM (the top right relay) is more than likely the culprit. I’ve attached photos of my FRB and label. I feel your pain about getting anyone to look at it. It seems like no one wants to touch these things.

FWIW, as far as the u-joint and yoke removal, whether you are going to do it yourself or take it somewhere, I would spray some type of rust buster on the threads. Do it every couple of days before you start the project or take it in. Also, you might want to scribe the parts before you take it in. That way you can verify that the shop lined it up properly, before you drive it and feel the vibration. As far as the rust buster, I like to make my own. I used a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. For acetone, I just buy a small bottle of nail polish remover (make sure it says acetone on it) and the cheapest ATF/power steering fluid. This stuff works great l.

Your description is much more eloquent and accurate than mine. If my arms were a couple of feet longer it wouldn’t be a problem.

I tried these on my Diplomat and had the same problem as Martin - they rotated. However, one of mine had a slow leak when it rotated. I finally took them off. Now I just position the tag wheel so I can stick my hand through from aft of the tag or between the tag and drive wheels and remove the TPMS sensor if I need to add air. Kind of a pain, but I rarely have to do it.

Richard, I feel your pain. My Progressive went from $1284 to $1950. It too, is a Florida policy. I searched around a lot and couldn’t find any great savings, so I stuck with them. I will definitely check out RV America. My Progressive is through USAA, who I’ve been with for over 40 years. My auto policies have skyrocketed, too. No claims, just price increases. There is no doubt in my mind that we (policyholders) are paying for all the money they didn’t make during COVID. If you recall, they gave “discounts “ on auto policies since people weren’t driving. Most of them paid their employees even though they weren’t working. Ok, I’m done ranting…

I should only have to measure 2 locations since the cable runs from the rear bus directly to the generator. I’ll clean/double check the grounds, too. Yes, I do have the 10kw. I’ll try to get this checked out before I head out of town this week. Otherwise, it will be sometime next month before I can do any troubleshooting.

I think I need to better explain what I have and what I want to do. My generator is connected to the RRB bus (chassis batteries) with a 2/0 cable. There is another 2/0 cable running from that bus to the FRB. I was thinking of running a new 2/0 cable from that stud on the FRB to the generator. I would then have 2, 2/0 cables running from the RRB chassis bus. The banks would not be connected unless I pushed the boost switch.

Ok, I know you’re not supposed to beat a dead hose, but I came up with an idea for the sluggish generator cranking. For background, the cable running to the generator is 2/0. It was set up to start from the house batteries. I moved the cable to the chassis batteries and saw no difference in the starting. Tom mentioned about running a cable from the 4/0 FRB stud. However, my coach has a 2/0 running from the chassis batteries to the FRB and a 2 gauge (not 2/0) running from the house batteries to the FRB. I considered adding another battery just for starting the generator, then I came up with this thought. What if I ran a 2/0 cable from the 2/0 stud on the FRB to the generator? Then I would have 2, 2/0 cables for starting the generator. It would be cheaper and less maintenance than adding a separate starting battery. Thoughts and comments appreciated.

3/4 inch heater hose (automotive) will slip over the 5/8 PEX. You can use hose clamps to secure it. I’m sure it can take the heat of the Aquahot.

I’ve been getting the Westwood F100-10 from Home Depot online for about $10.50. Works fine.

I am a firm believer in oil sampling. I ran my 2012 Diplomat for 17,000 miles and 5 years before an oil change. I religiously submitted samples at 2,500 miles as the lab specified. At the last sample, the lab said to drive 1,000 miles and submit a sample. I decided that was a good enough reason to change the oil. I now have a good baseline and will submit a sample at 5,000 miles and see what the lab says. The bottom line is that the recommended change interval doesn’t necessarily need to be followed as long as you test the oil.

So sorry to hear of Ray’s passing. I always enjoyed reading his posts. RIP.

Now you have me thinking… I don’t know if I had pressure in the tanks or not when I made the discovery. I will check it when I do my next fast cruise at the end of the month.

BLUF - Start your engine and see if the brake lights work. I have a 2012 Diplomat, so the wiring, etc is similar. I couple of months ago I was trying to locate the connector for the auxiliary brake controller. I found it and started testing the wires. Everything checked out except for the brake light input. I couldn’t figure it out, then I discovered that the motorhome had to be running for the brake lights to work. I was surprised at this, since the brake lights come on when you press the pedal on “regular cars” whether the key is on or off.

Ben, I quoted the wrong post. I meant to quote Tom’s post about greasing the tail shaft and covering the hole. I’ve never done that. BTW, I wish my rear tank was in a different location. It is a real PITA to get to.

I learned something new today. Well, I guess I’ll need to crawl back under there and re-do it.

Dave, I still have the Maxxforce 10. I have 43k miles on mine. I’ve had pretty good luck with my engine. Had to change the ACM (after treatment control module) and this March I blew the turbo to CAC hose coming back from Florida. I would love to hear what you did to your engine to make it run better. Dan

I just got an email from Micro-Air for their Black Friday sale. 15 percent off from 11/23 to 12/13. Code is CMEASY23 Happy shopping!!

I don’t know if your 2011 is wired the same as my 2012, but here are photos of the RRB and FRB. Note the DRL relay socket is circled in red.

I purchased my thermostat in the fall of 2021 - full price. On Black Friday there was a discount- I can’t remember what the percentage was, but it was enough to make me wish I’d have waited to place my order. No refunds/credits for prior purchases.

I wouldn’t think a low coolant level would throw an engine protection code. Does the code clear when you disconnect the sensor? Have you checked the wires for voltage and ground? I think some of these use 5 volts. Is it possible that it’s the coolant temperature sensor/circuit that is throwing the code?

Interesting read. Michelin recommends replacing at 10 years. First time I’ve ever seen a manufacturer make a recommendation.

So, I guess you drove down the Eastern Shore (Rt 13) when you left Delaware. The Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel is an engineering marvel. I think it’s almost 26 miles long and expen$ive in an RV. I hope you enjoy your time in Virginia Beach.

Trevor, thanks for the photos and the links. I am thinking of mounting my battery on top of the exhaust heat shield. I ran the generator for 75 minutes the other day and the heat shield was barely warm to the touch. The advantage of this setup would be very short cable runs. Any thoughts, questions or concerns would be appreciated before I proceed with this.