dandick66

I think it’s because the GPS manufacturer’s have figured out there is a niche market for the larger displays and they charge what the market will bear. As far as accuracy of Garmin vs Android or Apple, I really don’t trust any of them 100 percent. I just drove from Virginia to Florida and back in my 2020 Ram pickup. It has the 12 inch display with built in navigation. Unfortunately, the maps are outdated and they want $150 for a new map. When I connect Apple Car Play or Android Auto, the display shrinks to a much smaller size. Anyhow, I’ve made this trip many times and know the route/roads. For some reason Car Play wanted to route me different ways, both going from Virginia and Florida. For the reasons above, I always look at my route on a tablet or computer so I have a good idea of where I’m going and what roads to take. It’s not a big deal with a car, but as we all know the coaches are a different breed. Trust, but verify is a good mantra for GPS navigation.

When you get a chance/good signal a picture of your setup would be very helpful. It will save me from having to reinvent the wheel. Those big doors housed the rails for the 18 inch guns that protected the Delaware Bay. They would prevent ships from getting to Philadelphia and Wilmington. Those guns were long removed before I was stationed there. That’s the reason (AGS) I changed mine from the house to chassis. Last year I had the coach parked for about a month, but had the res fridge running. I found out that I had to set the AGS at 12.2 volts in order for the generator to start. Needless to say, the generator ran a lot. I wish Monaco/Navistar would have run the 4/0 to the FRB so I could tap off of it.

Yea, I saw all of these posts before I started removing covers. I think the only solution for me is the auxiliary starting battery. The 2/0 cables just don’t cut it.

Do you have the link for the ACR and battery tray? I hope you enjoy your time at Cape Henlopen. I was stationed there when it was still a Navy Base. If you have a chance you should tour that part of the park. It originally was coastal defense during WWII and the in the 60’s it became an “oceanographic research “ base. A good portion of it is underground. I was only stationed there for a year and then it was closed down. It was one of the best duty stations.

Yes, there’s room for it up there, but I’d have to fabricate some type of mount for it. There’s a heat shield bracket above the exhaust pipe. It has a nice shelf that would hold a battery nicely. The positive and negative connectors are right next to it. I might fire up the generator and see how hot that bracket gets. I bet it’s not any hotter than the engine compartment of a car. I’m not sure if I have an alternator. I’ll look this week and check.

Well, I finally checked out the cabling. I have a 2/0 that runs from the RRB directly to the generator. There was is another 2/0 from the RRB chassis battery to the FRB stud and a 2 gauge (Not 2/0) from the house batteries to the FRB. So, no 4/0 running from the rear to the front. I looked at Walmart today and I can get a group 24 battery for $70. I think I’ll get one and a battery box and mount it near the generator. I need to figure out how to connect a combiner/isolator.

Thanks for straightening me out. I could have sworn that I read that the burner would not work with at least 12 volts. Obviously, I was wrong. Now, I have to figure out why my AH cut out in the middle of the night. That was a couple of years ago and I’ve done the maintenance on it since then. If I recall correctly the gap was way off on the electrodes.

You might want to add a note to set the starting volts at 12.1 if you have the Aquahot. The reason is that the Aquahot will cut off if the voltage is less than 12. To restart it, you can either flip the diesel switch on and or, or press the reset button in the Aquahot bay. I found this out the hard way at 0400 in January.

If yours is like my 2012 Diplomat, then zone 4 is the bath and wet bay. The switch in the bathroom is to disable the fan in the bathroom if you only want the wet bay heat.

Yes, I have the 10kw Onan.

I’m out of town this week, but will check my wiring when I get back home. I’m pretty sure my generator is connected by a long 2/0 cable from the RRB. I’m going to check the FRB and see if I have two 4/0 cables coming from the RRB chassis and house batteries. If so, I’ll make a 4/0 cable to run from the FRB stud to the generator. I’m curious about the ground, though. Wouldn’t be ok to just leave the current - no pun intended - ground cable? I know on car batteries the ground cable is much smaller gauge than the positive.

You need to look at your manual and figure out where each zone is, and what modes are available. My 2012 Diplomat has 4 zones and 3 AC units. Zones 1,2 and 3 work on cool, heat pump and Aquahot. Zone 4 is aquahot only - it controls the wet bay heater. It took me a while to figure this out since I found 4 temp sensors inside the coach. The zone 4 sensor is in the rear bath , but I have not idea what its function is other than to provide a reading at the thermostat. Like I said, zone 4 heat is controlled by the rheostat in the wet bay. As far as your central vacuum, it has nothing to do with your Aquahot problem. The contacts might need cleaning on the toe kick, or it could be the vacuum itself. I know when I first got my coach, the vacuum didn’t work. I took it apart and figured out a relay was bad. I hit it a few times with a screwdriver handle and it’s worked fine for 6 years now.

GrI at job. Nice and clean. I know you’re happy now.

The generator in my 2012 Diplomat was wired to the house batteries, but I changed it to the the chassis batteries. I noticed the generator was hard to start from the house batteries unless I was connected to shore power or the engine was running. I did not see any improvement in starting when I changed it to the chassis batteries. My next project is to install an auxiliary starting battery and isolator for the generator. The main reason I wanted to change it to the chassis batteries is because of the Aquahot. If the Aquahot voltage drops below 12 volts it cuts off and has to be manually reset when the voltage is above 12 volts. Of course this happened at 0300. The AGS was set at 11.9 (default) and wouldn’t start the generator. That’s when I decided to change it to the chassis batteries. I changed the AGS to 12.1, but the generator struggles to start from the chassis batteries. The batteries are good as I have no problems starting the engine. I’ve checked cables and everything is good, clean and tight. Maybe the cable run is too long.

I don’t know why these photos always come out so blurry. I converted them from PNG to JPEG, but they’re still blurry. Anyway, here’s a link to the impellers on Amazon. The dimensions are the exact same as the Sanicon. No gasket, but you could either make a new one or re-use the old one. https://tinyurl.com/29vh55nu

A few years ago I decided to buy a spare impeller for my Sanicon. I felt Sanicon was charging way too much, so I did some research l. I found these Jabsco impellers that are the exact same dimensions as the Sanicon - they probably buy theirs from Jabsco. I don’t know if neoprene or nitrile is a better material l.

The marker lights are single filament, so they only have one level of brightness and they should only illuminate when the parking lights or headlights are switched on. Try this: Start the engine with the headlights off. Apply the brakes. Do the brake lights illuminate? If they don’t illuminate then you don’t need to look at your headlight switch. If they do illuminate, then turn your headlights on. Is there any change in the brightness of the brake lights?

The lab tests a multitude of things - metals, contaminants, fuel dilution, etc, over 30 different tests. If they say to drive 2500 miles and submit another sample, then I figure they know what they’re doing. Like I said in the post, the last time I submitted a sample they said drive 1,000 miles. I decided to change it anyway.

Bad math. It was actually 5 years. August 2018 - August 2023. Like I said, I kept submitting the samples and everything was testing good, well within specs. After the last sample when the lab said to submit another sample after 1,000 miles, I decided to change it. I realize the time and mileage seem excessive, but the tests were all coming back good.

I realize this post is a little old, but I wanted to give my input. I purchased my 2012 Diplomat with a Maxxforce 10 in December 2017. It had 21,000 miles on it. In August of 2018 I was in Camping World and they had an oil sample kit on the clearance rack. I did a sample and the result indicated that the aluminum was high and I should change the oil. I changed the oil and put it Rotella T6 synthetic. The coach had 27,000 miles on it then. Since then, I’ve submitted samples and everything is good. They say to drive 2500 miles and submit another sample. After the last sample, they said to drive it 1,000 miles and submit a sample. I decided that was long enough on the oil and filter - 6 years and 16,000 miles, so I changed it even though it was still testing good. I used Rotella T6 again, since I had enough of it in the garage.

Jim, You certainly didn’t help it, but I doubt you did any real damage to the transmission. If the total transmission capacity is 12 gallons and you had to add 3 gallons, that’s 25 percent. Think of a “regular “ car engine. They used to be 5 quarts and you could run them 1 quart low forever without any fear of damage. Well that’s 20 percent of the total capacity. You should be safe, but for peace of mind, pull a sample and send it to JG Labs. They’ll be able to tell you whether to change your fluid or not, and what kind of wear was on the fluid. Good luck and enjoy the rest of your trip.

I hope you have deep pockets. $16k. https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/teledyne-flir-si124-ld-industrial-acoustic-imaging-camera-for-ultrasonic-leak-detection.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw7JOpBhCfARIsAL3bobeUlmFT8JwmQTgpBPzflxfgpFUgqLQ7QVOoUPXu4zUBCsnuDkvOptwaAmOgEALw_wcB

Sorry for the delay in responding - I’ve been working on home projects. Based on the info in my owners manual, I don’t think the drip test will work. According to REV, they add pink dye to the AW46. It does say the capacity is 3.5 quarts, though.

Here’s some “funny math”….

I guess no one wants to take a shot at answering this?? Here is the filter info for my Diplomat - according to the manual - who knows if it’s right!