dandick66

Unless I’m missing something in the math, you drove 2840 miles and spent $1577.78 for fuel. This comes out to $.55 per mile. Much more palatable than $2.12/mile

A couple of years ago I noticed the fluid was a little low in my 2012 Diplomat. I checked the manual and it said to use AW46, so that’s what I added. I have no idea if my manual was wrong. Could I have caused any potential damage to anything by adding the AW46 if it was supposed to have ATF or 10-40? Everything seems fine and I have not had to add any more fluid. I do not have a hydraulic fan and as far as I know the power steering is the only thing hydraulic other than the slides, which have their own reservoir.

When you said you located the headlight relay and it had no power, do you mean you tested for 12 volts on pin 30 with the headlights turned on? I looked at the FRB diagram for my 2012 and it indicates VCB 11 is low beam and VCB 12 is high beam. Do you have voltage there when headlights are turned on. Next check VCC 1 (high beam) and VCC 2 (low beam). VCC 1 and 2 are fed from VCB 11 and 12.

I have the Garmin 780 and it’s pretty good for the most part. However, I don’t fully trust it. I try to look at my route with Google Maps using the satellite view before I start my trips. I figure you’re pretty safe on the interstates since they have to accommodate big rigs. If there’s construction or a road closure the DOT has to consider that. Just for fun, try getting directions to the TA Petro in Manning, SC from 95 South using Google Maps. The TA is located right off of 95 Northbound. Google Maps has you get off at the exit and turn right, and take a local road North for several miles, cross over 95, then turn right again and follow that road to the TA Petro. The correct route would be to turn left off of 95 South and then cross over 95 and the TA Petro would be right there. If you use the Apple Maps, it routes you the correct way. Trust but Verify!!

It might be the headlight switch itself. The clearance and tail lights will work when the switch is pulled partway out for “parking “ lights. Maybe the switch isn’t making a good contact when it’s pulled all the way out for headlights.

Bob, Glad you found the problem and got it fixed. I had a similar issue with my Maxxforce engine, but didn’t post it here as just about everyone here has a Cummins or Cat. Here’s the link to my IRV2 post. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f122/maxxforce-10-won-t-start-600575.html Dan

FWIW I’ve had good luck with the Nilight relays their other products.

You should definitely change out the Monroe shocks. The Monroe’s on my 2012 Diplomat were terrible at 35,000 miles. I went with Bilstein. They made a big difference in ride quality. I did have problems locating the correct part numbers. I got the number of the shock and couldn’t locate it on the Monroe website. I emailed them and they gave me 2 different part numbers and neither one of them was the correct shock. You might want to check the parts list and see if your shocks are listed - mine were not.

You might want to try your local Ace hardware. I know most of them make screen frames.

Same here. No special treatment.

I was able to remove my Diamond Shield with minimal use of solvents, etc. I only had 1 small patch of paint that came off and it was under the front curve - not noticeable. You might want to try this first. If you can’t get it off, or the paint starts to come off, then go with your original plan.

Your signature says you tow a 98 Grand Cherokee, but you write up mentions wanting to tow a pickup. I originally had a dolly then changed over to flat towing. Flat towing is definitely easier to connect and disconnect, but the dolly wasn’t terribly hard. After experiencing a breakdown once, I decided I will never use the coach without a tow vehicle attached. If you’re traveling cross county you definitely don’t want to take a chance on being “vehicle less”.

You should have one of these between the wet tank and rear tank. It allows air to flow from the wet tank to the rear tank. When the governor cuts off the compressor, the valve allows approx 10 PSI to flow back to the dryer (purge). Then it seals and prevents air from going from the rear tank to the wet tank.

You can pick up one of these to test your cable and connections. iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool https://a.co/d/3m3ixxJ For $10 it might be easier than trying to figure out if you have a bad cable/connector.

Twisted pair is just a term for the wire sets being twisted together instead of straight runs. The twisting helps reduce interference and cross talk. Can be used for voice or data. You could buy a junction block like this. Plug your good end into it you’ll be able to determine what wire goes to terminals 1-4. Then just take the other end of the cable and make sure you wire it the same when you use your crimper for the new connector. https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Tel-Products-AT468-4-Conductor/dp/B005M1YQ98/ref=asc_df_B005M1YQ98/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194024095585&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13725825128469133732&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008394&hvtargid=pla-311062674930&th=1

I see you’re in Palm Bay. That’s only about 3 hours from Brooksville, where Talin is located. They can determine if you need a new floor or not. They’ll install the Guardian plates and see if you have any other problems.

We have the Splendide stacked washer and dryer. The washer works good, but the dryer is slow due to being 110. I would think you’d have a problem getting one of those combo units through the door. I agree with Dennis - put this on the back burner until you get your feet wet and lear/deal with any other issues and problems that might come up. In the meantime, do a lot of research and see if you can find a smaller sized washer and dryer that you can fit in the door and work on if necessary.

When the compressor cuts off, do you see a 10 PSI drop in the first 30 seconds? If not, then your PCCV (pressure control check valve) is defective. Open your wet tank drain valve. You should not see any drop in pressure in your front and rear tanks. If you see a drop in the rear tank, then again, it’s the PCCV. If both tanks drop pressure, then it’s probably the shuttle valve (one way check valve). I just went through finding and fixing a bunch of leaks this spring. I had a defective PCCV, shuttle valve, and several brake hoses were leaking. I discovered that Monaco didn’t make a lot of changes to their air systems over the years, so you can look at most of the available drawings for hose connections, sizes and colors. I’ve attached the drawings for my 2012 Diplomat. Good luck. 18623342_B (Schematic Pneumatics DEKA 43ft) Model (1).pdf

My 2012 Diplomat has the drain tubes. One of them is missing the “duckbill” on the end. I’ve looked for replacements, but it seems like either the cost or shipping is ridiculously expensive. I need to google and find a source.

The short story is that yesterday I couldn’t find the 12 VDC source. Today, I found it. I used the drawings from a 2008/9 Camelot since “it looked the same”. Well, it wasn’t the same. The 2008/9 drawings show VCO11 and 12 and F34. My 2012 drawings don’t show the trailer plug. When I mentioned VCO8, I should have said “label”, not drawing. The label on the FRB door said the trailer charge was on VCO8 - it’s not. I have since found the connection is at VCO5. I traced the wire RLTR87 from the plug and saw that it went into the RRB above the battery box. I found it went to the relay I showed in the photo. I followed the relay wires and saw one of them went to a connector with a 30 amp fuse, marked ECM Batt (see photo). The 30 amp fuse was blown so I replaced it and now I have the 12 VDC at the plug. There’s even an LED beside the fuse that is now lighted. I should have noticed it was a DED (dark emitting diode). I hope that better explains everything. Tom, There is no CB in my setup. The relay pins are: pin 30 is connected to the 30 amp fuse in the RRB, pin 87 is the trailer battery charge wire that supplies 12 VDC to the trailer plug, pin 86 is connected to VCO5 in the FRB and pin 85 is ground (I might have pins 85 and 86 misidentified). As you mentioned, the ignition switch must be on and it energizes the relay and it supplies the 12 VDC to the plug. This is the way it came from the factory as another owner of a 2012 Knight has the exact same setup. I guess Navistar made changes and didn’t document them properly - big surprise.

SOLVED! According to my drawings, the trailer charge signal is supposed to come from VC08. However, there is no wire attached to VC08. I found the relay and associated fuse in the RRB above the batteries. The fuse and circuit are marked as ECM Batt. I’ve attached photos for any other poor souls with a circa 2012 Monaco.

I located the 6 pin Mate N Lock plug and tested the wires. I verified the “blue” wire is connected to the 7 pin plug in the back. I tested all of the other pins on the 7 pin plug and all work except the 12 volt pin. I tested with the ignition off and on, engine off and on. Fuse 34 in the FRB is good. I’ve attached the drawing for the trailer plug. Unfortunately, the picture is blurry. The wire in question is “B” and referred to as RLTR87 Trailer ignition” and the 12 volts comes from “D”. I have no idea where “D” is. Any ideas? FWIW, I discovered that my brake lights only come on with the engine running. Not sure if that’s normal or not. I know that car brake lights come on whether engine/ignition is on or not.

Welcome aboard.

Make sure you pull the fuse, or power down the leveling system before you start poking around in there. The last thing you need is to short something and ruin the board.

I found this on the internet. If you know someone with a 3D printer, see if they’ll print this for you. You can paint it whatever color you want. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5389517