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Air loss


bobbyd557
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Air it up, put some properly rated jack stands under the chassis on solid ground, shimmy under with some soap water in a sprayer and soak down all the air components in search for the leak source.  Then repair / replace whatever is leaking.

There are no other real shortcuts to getting it resolved other than "shotgunning" parts that others have found broken on theirs.

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Ours leaked at the regulator just rear of the air tank.  I could hear it leaking after I crawled under.  I could run my fingers near the air leak and hear a change in sound. 

But yeah . . . . make sure you have good jacks under it.

Good luck,

- bob

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Chasing down air leaks is a pain, and it gets harder as you repair the more obvious ones.  I have been working on mine off & on for a while.  I've made progress but I'm still not where I want to be. I would like to find them all but have concluded that prolly ain't happening.

So far I have replaced 2 PPVs ( pressure protection valves ) 1 on each air tank, 2 air pressure switches, and a host of PTCs ( push to connect ) fittings.   I found those leaks using Dawn & water in a spray bottle.   Those repairs helped immensely but I still have work to do.   I saw this electronic device recommended on IRV2 and  I'm considering ordering one.   https://www.amazon.com/allsun-Ultrasonic-Transmitter-Headphone-Indication/dp/B079DPF98V/ref=pd_sbs_2?pd_rd_w=4g9es&pf_rd_p=651d64d1-3c73-45b6-ae09-e545600e3a22&pf_rd_r=CJNZJZGYS24RJSHR7Y11&pd_rd_r=ed92260e-a3ec-4ccd-814a-52247b90a45e&pd_rd_wg=0KQfk&pd_rd_i=B079DPF98V&psc=1#customerReviews    $51.99

Comments?

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Edited by Ray Davis
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A large percentage of the time (maybe 90%+) the leaks are in the air solenoid valves, or "6 packs". They need new o-rings installed both inside the solenoid and also where the air lines insert into the solenoid.

You need to get the coach up in the air because after you locate the leaks you need to bleed the air down to work on the solenoids. If you do not have a lift, build some ramps from 2" X 12" boards stair stepped together.

Someone also posted a link to a leak detector spray product on Amazon that is superior at finding leaks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B00LOS...v_ov_lig_dp_it

This process takes lots of time and patience and very few shops have either. HWH will work on your system if you are near Iowa or Paul Maddox.

A good way to start is to pre-purchase the needed o-rings. Mike Canter suggests you use Dupont Viton orings. The internal oring is a -019 size, the large one on the bottom is a -028 and the small one on the bottom is a -015.

Then remove the 6-pack valves in both front and rear and rebuild them. Label all wires and air lines. It will help to have a special "pin wrench" tool and cannon plug pliers to get the valves apart.

Here are some links to get you started:
Air leak in chassis leveling system

You Tube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChLo7eTBRdE

   
Hope this helps.
Edited by vito.a
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2 hours ago, vito.a said:

A large percentage of the time (maybe 90%+) the leaks are in the air solenoid valves, or "6 packs". They need new o-rings installed both inside the solenoid and also where the air lines insert into the solenoid.

I can't believe I forgot to mention that I also replaced 2 solenoids and put new Orings in the others.   CRS

BTW sometime ago there was mention of putting something in the exhaust holes of the manifolds to prevent dirt daubers from stopping them up. 

Does anyone remember how that was done,  what was used?

Edited by Ray Davis
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