tmw188 Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 (edited) Ok my diesel 7.5 gen has been running fine but recently quit. I thought maybe it was the fuel tank being too low, it was at about 3/8 of a tank when it died. After getting fuel a few days later it didn’t make a difference. It will however start and run when primed until the prime runs out. I’m going to change the fuel filter first but the fact that it runs until the prime is used up, does that still lend itself to the fuel filter? I’m assuming the fuel pump is working ok being it is priming, but that is a manual call for fuel maybe when it’s running it’s not getting voltage. Anyone experience this before? Typical Code 36 Edited June 29, 2021 by tmw188 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 When my gen acted similarly it was a broken water pump belt. It would start & run until the temp sensor would shut it down. Which mostly wasn't very long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted June 29, 2021 Author Share Posted June 29, 2021 I’ll feel feel for air flow-thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 I don't believe the air flow ( fan ) is powered by the belt. IIRC the belt only turns the water pump. Remove enough screws on the gen rear panel and you can probably pull the panel out enough so you can see. If it is the belt I may be able to offer some tips if you decide to DIY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted June 29, 2021 Author Share Posted June 29, 2021 I think that’s right, I was thinking that myself. I will let you know for sure. My gen is on a power slide and today is one of the days it doesn’t want to open. I’ll have to check into that too.🤪 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Check the fuel line to and from the genset to the fuel tank. Pin hole leaks introduce air into the system. IMO, the fan belt can create a lot of problems. Like most all systems in a motor home, Preventive Maintaince (PM) is a recommendation in all the manuals. Yet, a lot of folks ignore it. Nothing breaks until you start to use it. I have always suggest that if your coach has set up for several months, the weekend before you leave on a trip take the coach out to a local campground and live in it for a couple days and nights. Chuck B 2004 Windsor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted June 29, 2021 Author Share Posted June 29, 2021 Yep on the maintenance. That’s all I seem to do with previous coach but it paid off when I sold it. This coach is only month old to me so I’m doing a lot of maintenance right now to start with a clean slate so to speak. I’ve put about 12 hrs on the gen over the last two weeks while doing things inside and it just quit. It had a complete service in 11/19 then sat almost 1.5 yrs but has ran good since I bought it. I’ll be checking more when the temps drop some. I’ll look at the belt before changing FF. Air filter is brand new and from the looks of the FF it may be too. As soon as the primed fuel is used up it dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Todd, code 36 is a fuel fault. I would suspect the fuel filter to be the culprit first then proceed onto other possible causes as described in the troubleshooting manual section. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 I installed a small Racor marine 10 micron water fuel separator to the incoming fuel tine to my genset. I mounted it to the outside of the genset on the drivers side. That way I could replace the filter very easy. I could also see if any bad diesel fuel is in the bottom of the separator. Chuck B 2004 Windsor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_mary_matt Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 I had the same symptom last month on our way home. Changed the fuel filter runs fine now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wamcneil Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 56 minutes ago, Chuck B said: I installed a small Racor marine 10 micron water fuel separator to the incoming fuel tine to my genset. I mounted it to the outside of the genset on the drivers side. That way I could replace the filter very easy. I could also see if any bad diesel fuel is in the bottom of the separator. Chuck B 2004 Windsor I might do that. Changing the filter inside the housing is a big messy PITA. And I’d sure like to have some visibility into the generator fuel supply Cheers Walter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 I replaced the fuel filter on the Kubota Generator engine & mounted a Garber R Fuel Filter on the rear Generator enclosure panel. Same as for the Aquahot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Here is a photo of Chuck's Racor Fuel Filter he added to the side of the generator. The OEM fuel filter can be seen in the second photo near the bottom of the generator and it is silver in color. It is to the bottom left of the black oil filter. In order to remove it you have to maneuver it in a specific manner to get it out of the small space where it sits. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimc99999 Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 26 minutes ago, Dr4Film said: The OEM fuel filter can be seen in the second photo near the bottom of the generator and it is silver in color. It is to the bottom left of the black oil filter. In order to remove it you have to maneuver it in a specific manner to get it out of the small space where it sits There is a trap door under the fuel/oil filters, unless your slide blocks that for some reason. That will let the fuel filter easily drop out the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_mary_matt Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 There’s a good YouTube video on the filter change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 I've changed my gen fuel filter many times. It's a PITA. I used to use the little door on the bottom but my coach has a cross bar about mid way of the door and the door will not open wide enough. So I would always remove the 2 screws holding the door and just remove it. Now that I'm 80 I really don't like laying under there so now I remove the gen side panel which allows easy access to the fuel and oil filters. After seeing Chuck's filter mounted externally I may rig one up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Every time I changed the genset filter I got a arm pit full of diesel fuel. Chuck B 2004 Windsor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 Well it was the filter, however I have some seepage now at the fitting going to the filter from the pump. I tightened it sufficiently for a flared fitting but I needed to continue to tighten a little more while checking for leaks. After looking at the inside of the other filter it doesn’t appear to be a flared fitting but maybe has an oring style seat instead. The other end (small end)of the filter leading out of the filter Does look like a flare style seat. So I’ll need to pull it off again because it shouldn’t need to be any tighter than it is. We will see. 3 hours ago, Ray Davis said: I've changed my gen fuel filter many times. It's a PITA. I used to use the little door on the bottom but my coach has a cross bar about mid way of the door and the door will not open wide enough. So I would always remove the 2 screws holding the door and just remove it. Now that I'm 80 I really don't like laying under there so now I remove the gen side panel which allows easy access to the fuel and oil filters. After seeing Chuck's filter mounted externally I may rig one up. That’s unfortunate and sounds like it is a PITA. My door drops down vertically totally out of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlhurlbut Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Hello tmy188. I also added a Racor 10 micron filter an the left side of my generator. It makes monitoring the fuel quality and changing the filter is much easier then the ONAN filter. As a side note, while I was adding the Racor 12T filter project, I extended electrical leads from the back of the generator to the left front side of the generator so if its ever necessary to jump start the generator, I don't have to crawl so far under the coach to attach the jumper cables. Terry H 2005 Camelot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) Nice upgrade, but I doubt I’ll be doing that. I like the idea of the water separator filter. BTW you can’t get a line wrench on the rubber hose fitting leading to the engine. It’s a 7/16 and you can’t slip it over the hose to get it on the nut. I opted to use a slim crescent wrench to get a better tighter fit on it because the 7/16 wrench seemed like it wanting to start to slip. It was successful. Edited June 30, 2021 by tmw188 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 2 hours ago, tmw188 said: Well it was the filter, however I have some seepage now at the fitting going to the filter from the pump. I tightened it sufficiently for a flared fitting but I needed to continue to tighten a little more while checking for leaks. After looking at the inside of the other filter it doesn’t appear to be a flared fitting but maybe has an oring style seat instead. The other end (small end)of the filter leading out of the filter Does look like a flare style seat. So I’ll need to pull it off again because it shouldn’t need to be any tighter than it is. We will see. It's been a while since I've replaced my filter but I'm pretty sure there was not an o ring in there. I believe your leaking line is a rigid metal line ( mine is ) and if you bolt the filter down before starting the fittings it is hard to get it straight, as in easy to cross thread. Flare nut wrenches are the tool for those nuts, available anywhere. They are made to slip over the tubing but still act as a box wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted July 1, 2021 Author Share Posted July 1, 2021 (edited) I used flare nut wrenches(line wrenches same thing diff name). Finger tightened very easily many turns. Yeah I wouldn’t think there would be oring especially on fuel, but the seat looks different compared to the other seat on the filter. I looked at the other filter to see what might be the reason. I know it’s not cross threaded but your suggestion on leaving the nut loose that holds the filter onto the bracket might be the answer anyway, allowing it to float a little. I know sometimes that letting the line float a little might help it square up when tightening. Top pic line going to the motor, looks like a typical flare seat, bottom pic line coming from fuel pumps looks different. Edited July 1, 2021 by tmw188 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 It sure seems that you did everything right. I have had to go back and crank down a little harder before. Yeah you might loosen the flare nut and the mounting nut so everything can relax and as you say things can align as you tighten the flare back up. I usually call them line wrenches too but wasn't sure if that would be as clear to most people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted July 1, 2021 Author Share Posted July 1, 2021 I guess we’re old school guys on that terminology. What was really messed up was you can’t use a line wrench on that one line because it won’t slip over the fuel line to get to the nut. Nothing is ever easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 Here is what the Service Manual states for Fuel Filter replacement. "Installing the Fuel Filter: Rotate the filter half a turn around its mounting stud if the fittings interfere with the bracket. It only fits properly one way. Connect the fuel fittings before tightening the filter mounting nut. Take care not to cross-thread the fuel fittings. Thread them in by hand and tighten one flat past seating. Close the access door and prime the fuel system by holding the control switch down in its Stop position for at least 1 minute. Priming is necessary to displace the air in the new filter with fuel." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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