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Water pressure accumulator plumbing question


Alan Hale
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2005 Executive - I have traced a fresh water leak to the connection to the pressure accumulator tank. The area it is located in is jammed with plumbing, Aqua-hot valves, wiring bundles, etc. and it is nearly impossible to get to this fitting. The only way I could figure out where the leak was coming from was to snake a fiber-optic camera into this mess. So far I have not been able to determine which line is supplying the tank. It's REALLY tight in there.

My question, is the supply line flexible and would there be enough length to allow the tank to be lowered to repair the connection? The tank is held up by a couple of large band clamps. It seems like it would be easy enough to bring the tank down to access the connection but I'm in a small town with few repair resources. Right now I can turn the pump on for a few seconds to have water and then let the pressure immediately bleed to stop the leak. If I pull it down and break a line I might be without water at all.

As a follow-on, has anyone ever added a pressure regulator to the internal water pump. I have a high quality pressure regulator at the city water supply side but the internal pump supplies up to 75 psi. I don't really need that kind of pressure and I think with aging plumbing is not a good idea.

Thanks for any guidance.

Accumulator.jpg

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If you are sure the tank is leaking, unsecure the tank so you can move it around.  Detach and remove and replace.

if you can't find a tank, then just put a fitting on it to plug the water line.

From your pic, that looks like "lots" of room...was that the pic from the fiber cable camera?  I am sure there is a way to remove it.

75lbs does sound a bit high.  60 sounds more typical.  Find the regulator (likely part of the pump) and turn it down a bit.  But that doesn't have anything to do with the tank leaking.  The tank is rated for higher PSI.

Edited by DavidL
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Our accumulator tank was leaking also.  It is very tight in there.  I loosened the band clamps and lowered and rotated it.  Only took 1/2 turn on the hose to stop the leak.  

Hope you get it fixed.  

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My tank started to leak at fitting and I did exactly what Vito did and I also cut in a valve that feeds the tank incase it started again. Very easy to do with PEX pipe and PEX valve...................

Safe travels

Dave

2004 Signature, Detroit 60 with Ugly Fix, res fridge, induction cook top, new Lifeline batteries, pure sine wave inverter, 3 new AC's & CCC2, 2020 GMC Denali &

2021 Mini Cooper JCW

 

 

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I removed the accumulator and plugged the water supply line some 8 years ago. The new water pump I installed (the original failed) regulates the pressure and flow so there is no need for the accumulator.

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22 minutes ago, Bob R said:

I removed the accumulator and plugged the water supply line some 8 years ago. The new water pump I installed (the original failed) regulates the pressure and flow so there is no need for the accumulator.

Yep. And if yu experience any "pulsation hammering", just take a 3' section of water line and make a loop, in place off the tank, and secure it vertically inplace. 

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Thanks to all for your replies. The accumulator bladder was burst so I found a replacement tank at a local plumbing supply.

It was a genuine bear to get the tank out! I also put a valve in the line so I can isolate it in the future if need be. Thanks for that suggestion.

Performance wise the water pressure and pump cycling times are greatly improved!

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