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Tow bar set up


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13 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Not sure yet, will be purchasing a vehicle to accommodate my tow requirements. My main objective is to have as simple/easy hookup and teardown as possible so using it won't be a chore. Well that, and as low a cost as possible so will be looking for decent used components where possible. We're only weekends and vacations  right now so trying to keep the budget low as we won't be getting a lot of use for now.

At this point the a 2010ish CR-V is at the top of the list, since it can be towed 4 down with the automatic trans., and has AWD (nice to have where we live).

 

 

I prefer a jeep wrangler TJ or JK. They are the most used toad. For good reason.  Takes less than 5min to hook up. The 4 wheel drive will also take you places that you could only dream of. I found a BlackHawk all terrain. Used. Absolutely love it.  Also found a lunch box blue ox break buddy.  There a bit of a pain in the backside but I only paid $50. 

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3 hours ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Any updates?  I'm also looking at putting together a TOAD solution so this discussion has been informative.

On what we are doing? 
 

I bought the Avail, and the Adaptors for the Clevis mounts. Been to NZ, UT and now AZ with no hiccups on the set up at all. Was a bit hard to get connected to the bumper as the Powder coat was think and I have to file it off. 

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Edited by JDCrow
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/9/2021 at 9:15 PM, JDCrow said:

Yeah I need to figure out the safety cable hook ups.

I have not settled on a braking system yet. Because we are not full-time, I really do not want a hard mount (air) system. The RVI looks interesting,  but the reviews have people upset because they can’t get screens (tablets) for the system, and I really do not want another 7” screen on my dash. 
 

So it kinda leaves the portable brake systems, which are foreign to me. I’ll have to dig in and figure out how they all work 

I have what some call a lunchbox break. it acts like a surge break. Found it used. Its a little bit of a pain to use but it takes care of the legal issues. It takes about 3min to set up.  To me its just a 3rd redundancy safety precaution.  I don't know about your truck but with my jeep I need to look at the camera or for a shadow in the mirror to be sure its still with me.   

Were to hook up safety cables. Here is what worked good for me. $12 for the pair. 

20211111_081602.jpg

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1 hour ago, BobSchmeck said:

I have what some call a lunchbox break. it acts like a surge break. Found it used. Its a little bit of a pain to use but it takes care of the legal issues. It takes about 3min to set up.  To me its just a 3rd redundancy safety precaution.  I don't know about your truck but with my jeep I need to look at the camera or for a shadow in the mirror to be sure its still with me.   

Were to hook up safety cables. Here is what worked good for me. $12 for the pair. 

20211111_081602.jpg

Those are trick! What I ended up doing it getting a set of BE7AE126-5245-4805-9D3B-D949D4CF22FD.thumb.jpeg.cda7b4004ab513587e83b1c3f479ee30.jpegsafety cables that would go on a trailer for attachment to the tow vehicle. I looped them around the frame of the truck and then attached the original blue ox safety cables to them. So doubled cables.  You can see them connected in this pic. I’m sure some will baulk at the set up, but it will hold and do the job 

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Just now, Chargerman said:

What’s up with the front wheel of your truck 😳

LOL, well, we left Nephi and got about 5 miles and I heard a pop. Pulled over and the nut holding the upper ball joint was gone. Called 3A and thankfully the driver was in it and suggested several shops to call. We found one willing to install that day. The 3A shop they wanted to send me to was 2 weeks out. Lot of good that would have did me. 
 

We are so amazed that it happened here, and not going 50+ mph down the interstate. Needless, we won’t go back to the guy that installed the stuff before we left 

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2 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

I was going to say that it looked like the nut just backed off and fell out. Was that the case? Was it factory?  

I had the level kit put on, so I’m assuming the shop uses the same nut over. Nylock is a one time use. They should have known better

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  • 10 months later...

Have used this Blue Ox tow bar to tow my 2016 Chevrolet Malibu LX all over the United States. Absolutely no issues. The slider latches are occasionally impossible to release if the towed vehicle is angled anyway. This issue has since been alleviated by a design change in the Blue Ox Alpha II towbar (BX7380).
 

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NO DOUBT Blue Ox makes a diversified and high quality tow bar.  But, I have used Roadmaster for 16 years and towed an SUV for around 80,000 mikes.  60K was with the Falcon 2 tow bar on two different SUV (98 Explorer & 08 H3 Hummer).  I rebuilt that tow bar around 45K, more on the general Preventative Maintenance standpoint, than actual need.  When I sold it, the joints and pivot points and such had no wear whatsoever.  

I talked to one of the Engineers at Roadmaster for my 16 Yukon as it was pushing the 6K limit of the Falcon 2.  He is also the designer of the Source Sway bars…so he knows a bit about MH and towing.  He recommended the Sterling All Terrain. It has been a dream.  We average about 3 nights per CG when we take our long trips.  So the hook and unhook ease is important.  The tension release locks on the Sterling are the nuts.  

Originally, I chose Roadmaster due to the size, materials and number of fasteners used on their baseplates.  Many members, including our founders were engineers or “techie” types and had reached the same conclusion.  I was able to add a front receiver hitch to my Explorer’s Roadmaster baseplate for my portable winch.  When I looked at the Hummer, I pulled the hardware and specs on both Blue Ox and Roadmaster.  Again, strength and fasteners won out.  Same deal.  I was quite willing to use the Blue Ox baseplates and adapt the existing Falcon 2, but the baseplates won out.

Having said that, doing preventative maintenance and keeping the bar lubricated per the manufacturer instructions is imperative.  Also, using Loctite RED and properly torquing, WITH a Torque Wrench is imperative for safe operation when the baseplates are installed is MANDATORY!

All I can say is to look at the features of both brand’s bars….especially the quick release of the Sterling.  Look at the mounting or baseplate hardware and design….then make the call.

 

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