Broken kitchen sink drain

[Guest sunriseranch2000]

Here is some information I saved about a swivel fix.

FIX FOR BROKEN KITCHEN SINK SLIDE-OUT WHITE FLEX DRAIN LINE:

The problem is that when the coaches slide-out is retracted (closed)

there is a severe bend on the flexible drain hose. This downward

bend sometimes breaks the flexible drain hose.

This fix eliminates the sliding track mechanism used by Monaco and

replaces it with a swivel fitting so at the point where the white flex

hose is being bent it can swivel down when the slide-out is retracted.

There is a very good Brass/Aluminum 1-1/2 inch swivel fitting that

only costs $24.00 BUT, take note, the vendor has a $100.00 minimum

order. The vendor is EZflo Nozzle & Equipment Company, (626)

967-6284, Gary is who I talked to. The part number is VEZ36S1-1/2

and it is called EZ-flo 1-1/2" Straight Swivel. Their WEB site is:

http:/www.ez-flo.com

The first photo (Photo Z) shows the looped 1-1/2 inch white flexible

drain line when the slide is extended. The problem is that when the

slide is retracted (closed) the area where the lower arrow is, is

where the flex line breaks. This is where it would be nice if the

fitting could swivel down 20 to 30 degrees when the slide-out is

retracted. The upper arrow points to Monaco's slide mechanism that

will be removed.

The other five photos describe what to do. As you read this look at

the following five photos marked A through E.

PHOTO A is an end shot that shows the swivel fitting snap ring.

PHOTO B: The left side is the swivel fitting. Before installation

you should remove the snap ring and twist and pull the fitting so it

is pulled out as shown on the right side of photo B. It will not pull

apart so don't be concerned about that. This lubricates the O-ring so

it swivels easier. Then twist and push it back together and reinstall

the snap ring.

PHOTO 😄 Shows what the plumbing would look like when the slide is

out (extended). Notice that the loop made by the white flex drain

line is a LONG loop and there is no downward bending pressure on the

flex line where it joins the Schedule 40 fitting because the flex line

is going straight out of the Schedule 40 fitting. This is how the

flex line looks when the slide-out is extended.

By the way, on my coach I used white Schedule 40 fittings to connect

the white flex line because the Schedule 40 fittings have more depth

so the flex line can be pushed in further with the cement and it has

more surface area for a good bond. The black drain line fittings only

have half the depth of a Schedule 40 fitting and therefore poorer

bonding. Always use transition cement when you join a white pipe to a

black pipe because they are different plastics.

NOTE: For the stability of the drain pipe, the brass nut part of the

swivel fitting must be VERY FIRMLY secured to the cabinet under the

sink. The securing of the brass nut part of the swivel fitting takes

the place of the current sliding-track mechanism. If the brass nut is

secured it keeps the black pipe from breaking during movement and it

also holds the swivel fitting firm when it swivels downward. You

should also secure the black pipe so there are two points secured to

the sink cabinet so there is no twisting motion on this drain pipe.

PHOTO 😧 Like photo C this is the slide-out when extended. Notice

that the connection at the flex pipe is level (horizontal to the coach

floor). In other words, it goes straight out toward the center of the

coach. No problem here because there is no downward bending pressure

at the flex line to Schedule 40 fitting.

PHOTO E: This is how the plumbing would look when the slide-out is

fully retracted. Because there was a swivel fitting, the connection

between the flex line and the Schedule 40 fitting has turned down 30

to 40 degrees. This has eliminated the severe downward bending

pressure at the junction of the flex line and the Schedule 40 fitting.

Then, when the slide out is again extended the flex line to Schedule

40 fitting goes back to level (horizontal to the coaches floor) or

straight like that shown in both photos C and D. The swivel fitting

allows this movement.

NOTE: Consider using a galvanized or brass 90 degree fitting to

connect to the Aluminum end of the swivel fitting because it must be

screwed down VERY tightly so the swivel point stays within the swivel

fitting itself and does NOT start swiveling where the threads of the

90 degree fitting are screwed into the swivel fitting.

Regarding "screwed down very tightly," as you already know if you

screw a plastic fitting VERY tightly into a metal fitting the sharp

metal-fittings threads will cut deeply into the plastic and weaken it

so it may break in a year or so.

One more reminder, make sure you also secure the black pipe to the

sink cabinet framework as well as the brass nut on the swivel fitting

so there are two points that are well secured. Do not hinder the the

movement of the Aluminum side of the swivel fitting.

 

Kitchen Sink Drain In Slide

Sun Oct 12, 2014 1:23 pm (PDT) . Posted by:

"George Cederholm" georgecederholm

This is a subject that has come up several times over the years. People have had issues with the design or implementation of the kitchen sink drain when the sink is part of a slide, usually on the passenger's side. I had an issue several years ago where the flexible hose used to accommodate the movement of the slide split (Monaco had installed a metal strap around the soft hose and it cut through), and posted about the repair at the time.

Recently, I had another failure in this drain, so I thought it would help to post a heads-up for folks with coaches of the same design of similar vintages (mid-2000s). From what I can tell, Monaco used two designs to handle the flex: a brass pipe fitting that rotates as the slide goes in and out, or a sliding track with rollers that the upper side of the drain pipe is attached to. Our coach has the latter design.

The symptoms of the failure were similar to the original failure we had: period gray tank odor near the kitchen area and eventually water appearing on the floor when the sink was used. The difference in this recent failure was that the water came out under the stove as opposed to further back behind the rolling wooden panel aft of the slide. 

Basically, the design Monaco used makes the kitchen drain pipe, 1.5" ABS, the "lever" used to force the roller head in and out when the slide is moved. The ABS runs to the outer wall of the slide from the sink trap, along that wall behind the drawers and under the stovetop, back toward the face of the slide, then aft again to the rolling head. It's attached to the interior of the cabinets and the aluminum edge of the slide face with metal straps. This last run also incorporated a standard ABS clean-out T fitting. 

Over 9 years of using the ABS as the driving force for the movement of the rolling head, that clean-out T developed a vertical crack on one side. When the crack started, we got odor. As it grew, we got a drip when a dish pan was dumped in the sink. Another couple of slide deployments, and it had almost separated into two pieces, causing water to flood out any time the sink was used.

I made temporary repairs using a rubber coupling that's a standard item from Home Depot and the like, but that obviously doesn't have the strength and rigidity needed to operate the slide. In the short term, I have to open up the cabinet by the rolling head and push or pull as needed while Geri operates the slide. Since we're only a few stops away from our winter place in AZ, I can live with this for the next month or so. I'll fabricate a reinforcing bracket to protect the ABS over the winter, and post final results.

But, in the meantime, this is a friendly suggestion for folks with similar systems to check theirs for signs of stress. On ours, when the slide is in, you can peek around the trailing face and see the ABS. The crack starts as a white mark on the black ABS. Access to the full length of the pipe requires pulling off panels under and in the cabinets.

George C., 2005 Exec PBQ

 

 

Re: Kitchen Sink Drain In Slide

Tue Oct 14, 2014 2:05 pm (PDT) . Posted by:

jcbjlb51

George/Bob 

I searched for the EZ Flo part too, and I think their address/site changed. Was able to find the new address (http://www.ezflonozzle.com) and called their Henderson, NV location (spoke with Shelly...(626-967-6284)...very nice people. Ordered the part ($69.95) and received it 3 days later. They were curious about the intended use as they had recently received several requests from MH owners. The nicely written directions and photos from the files section were very helpful, but still not a fun job (a few expletives helped considerably)! 


Jim B 
04 Dynasty 

[Rob M cKeown]

I had the same problem on my 03 Signature, replaces the original plastic hose with a steel reinforced hose that is much more flexible. I had to modify the hose connections but it now a much better setup with no possibility of kinking the hose as it was originally. If you need more info you can give me a call at 863 602 4685 

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

Looking at these pictures I see PVC pipe. I think the previous owner added these so he didn't have to buy a new hose, which cost more than the PVC fittings. You should never see PVC in a Monaco motor home. ABS pipe is stronger, more shock resistant and doesn't need a primer. Holiday Rambler had a patent on this system with the slide. I was told that was reason Monaco bought Holiday Rambler because of the patent.

Gary 05 AMB DST

[millionroy]

What a pain to get to. I wound up cutting a hole in the thin wall of the cabinetry under and to the left of the sink.  Was barely able to cover a partial tear of the corrugated flexible (???) white line with a 4X3 piece of black Flexseal tape.  Will see how long that lasts.  Fortunately found a mobile RV repair fellow right after I fixed my jerry rig.  At least I know where it is now and why I don't wish to attempt replacement!