Beltline Trim

[RBRODDER]

Thanks Bob, Is that you in the video? 

[Bob Schmeckpeper]

5 minutes ago, RBRODDER said:

Thanks Bob, Is that you in the video? 

Yaper. That's my mug. lol 

Here's another opinion. 

I not an expert, fumbling through like everyone else. Do your research & do what you think is best. Toss out what you learn so others can learn. I appreciate the information. so I'm passing it along. 

Paul A.  58

Started conversation: Tuesday at 10:36 AM

From another site i am a member of.  You can google; RV Belt Line Cover, and you will see and read a lot of good info.

How to Repair a Popped Belt Line.
Belt line pops are very common in Monaco brand coaches. They
typically occur near the front and rear radiuses of the belt line but
can happen anywhere along the belt line.
To repair the popped belt line: 1.) Remove the outer rubber cover far
enough to where you see clean rust free screws or rivets. 2.) Find the
bad rivets or screws that are broke or rusted and drill a new hole 1/4
inch from the existing hole. 3.) You have 2 choices here. You can use
stainless screws or stainless rivets. I myself use 304 aviation grade
stainless rivets that are 3/16 in size with a 7/8 " grip. If you use a
screw use a # 10 no longer then 1 inch. Do not use aluminum rivets
as they will stretch and open the caulking line in the future. 4.) Begin
reattaching the belt line with the screws or rivets. 5.) Once the belt
line is attached re-install the rubber over the metal belt line. 6.) Seal
the belt line off on the top and bottom using ProFlex RV caulking. Do
NOT use silicone based caulkings.
* All belt line caulking should be replaced every 8 - 10 years.
* Inspect the caulking on top of the belt lines once a year and touch
up or replace.

 

[RBRODDER]

9 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

Yaper. That's my mug. lol 

Here's another opinion. 

I not an expert, fumbling through like everyone else. Do your research & do what you think is best. Toss out what you learn so others can learn. I appreciate the information. so I'm passing it along. 

Paul A.  58

Started conversation: Tuesday at 10:36 AM

 

From another site i am a member of.  You can google; RV Belt Line Cover, and you will see and read a lot of good info.

How to Repair a Popped Belt Line.
Belt line pops are very common in Monaco brand coaches. They
typically occur near the front and rear radiuses of the belt line but
can happen anywhere along the belt line.
To repair the popped belt line: 1.) Remove the outer rubber cover far
enough to where you see clean rust free screws or rivets. 2.) Find the
bad rivets or screws that are broke or rusted and drill a new hole 1/4
inch from the existing hole. 3.) You have 2 choices here. You can use
stainless screws or stainless rivets. I myself use 304 aviation grade
stainless rivets that are 3/16 in size with a 7/8 " grip. If you use a
screw use a # 10 no longer then 1 inch. Do not use aluminum rivets
as they will stretch and open the caulking line in the future. 4.) Begin
reattaching the belt line with the screws or rivets. 5.) Once the belt
line is attached re-install the rubber over the metal belt line. 6.) Seal
the belt line off on the top and bottom using ProFlex RV caulking. Do
NOT use silicone based caulkings.
* All belt line caulking should be replaced every 8 - 10 years.
* Inspect the caulking on top of the belt lines once a year and touch
up or replace.

 

I am a Aircraft mechanic and I work at Boeing...saw your shirt, assuming you possibly retired from Mesa? I am in St. Louis.  After the Navy, I went to work for McDonnell Douglas as a Sheet metal guy. During layoff times I did corporate jet repair. This should be fairly easy for me, I hope...just don't need to reinvent the wheel.  Your video is pretty much exactly what I thought I would be up against.  I will need to replace the scre trim cover as the previous owner ran screws through the cover... Thank you for your assistance! It is much appreciated...BTW, I am currently working on the F/A 18 SuperHornet line..

[Bob Schmeckpeper]

5 minutes ago, RBRODDER said:

I am a Aircraft mechanic and I work at Boeing...saw your shirt, assuming you possibly retired from Mesa? I am in St. Louis.  After the Navy, I went to work for McDonnell Douglas as a Sheet metal guy. During layoff times I did corporate jet repair. This should be fairly easy for me, I hope...just don't need to reinvent the wheel.  Your video is pretty much exactly what I thought I would be up against.  I will need to replace the scre trim cover as the previous owner ran screws through the cover... Thank you for your assistance! It is much appreciated...BTW, I am currently working on the F/A 18 SuperHornet line..

20 years on the Apache. Never did much sheet metal. Mostly electrical & mechanical.  Putting the thing back together.  I  replaced every rivet on the beltline.  Used mineral sprites to clean the residue from the old caulking. Very important to get all the old stuff off. Used Lexel to reseal. Being a sheet metal guy you won't have the learning curve I had. When I find the trim number I'll pass it along.  

[Guest Ray Davis]

18 minutes ago, RBRODDER said:

This should be fairly easy for me

LOL,   Every time I say that I promise myself I'll never say it again.   30 minute jobs have a way of taking a week, and of course the wife says " you still working on that? " 

I'm sure it'll be fairly easy for you though.

 

[RBRODDER]

37 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

20 years on the Apache. Never did much sheet metal. Mostly electrical & mechanical.  Putting the thing back together.  I  replaced every rivet on the beltline.  Used mineral sprites to clean the residue from the old caulking. Very important to get all the old stuff off. Used Lexel to reseal. Being a sheet metal guy you won't have the learning curve I had. When I find the trim number I'll pass it along.  

Thanks, yeah the trim cover is my hang up right now, I really don't want to splice pieces together.  And with screw holes in it, I will need at least 45 plus feet a side(my coach is around 37 foot long)...when you find the material number, I will appreciate that too..

14 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

LOL,   Every time I say that I promise myself I'll never say it again.   30 minute jobs have a way of taking a week, and of course the wife says " you still working on that? " 

I'm sure it'll be fairly easy for you though.

 

Being an aircraft mechanic...I am very thorough...so yes, the 30 minute jobs take longer..🙂. My wife always tells me that I don't have to be perfect...34 years of working on aircraft and building fighter aircraft...yeah, it has to be perfect!

[Bob Schmeckpeper]

Here is the thinner molding.  I  went ahead and used it because it was about 75% of the cost to return it.  Some day I  may regret it.  The better stuff is quite a bit thicker but it runs around $4 to $5 a foot. For a 38ft rig you will need about 50ft. Its from automotive authority. 

 

 

Edited October 30, 2021 by Bob Schmeckpeper
Add company name

[RBRODDER]

Thanks Bob, That's one of the vendors and items I was looking at while searching for it..

[Twomed]

https://www.all-rite.com/    More vinyl trim...had posted to you over on irv2.

CH 47 Chinook Maint Officer and Test Pilot Project ZYA back when they were A and B models...Long time ago.  🙂

[Bob Schmeckpeper]

9 minutes ago, Twomed said:

https://www.all-rite.com/    More vinyl trim...had posted to you over on irv2.

CH 47 Chinook Maint Officer and Test Pilot Project ZYA back when they were A and B models...Long time ago.  🙂

They now have a Chinook program out in Mesa because we have 360 days of flying weather.  

Thank you saved me the time hunting for it. This is the better stuff.  

Here's were I got the cleco's. Good people to work with.  

[RNMCBR]

Rich,

I got two 50’ rolls of the plastic cap in black at NW RV Supply in Eugene Or about 4 years ago. I think I paid around $25-30 per roll. They had a pallet of it on hand.

Roy