Floor replacement tricks

[JDCrow]

That 3M marine adhesive is the bomb. Not cheap but it never comes apart. 

[jacwjames]

For those of you that have installed flooring, what product did you use, where did you buy it.  Definitely want waterproof flooring. 

So I'm starting to look at options for flooring.  I checked into the Hartco that Ernie recommended, no local suppliers that have any amount of inventory.  Lowes is suppose to carry it but doing some searching I could find any listing of the vinyl type.

So what options do I have.  Is this product a glue down or floating, is it a snap lock type fit.

I have also been reviewing other threads on installing flooring.  I installed a snap lock type flooring before and used the foam type barrier under it, which also had a plastic sheet attached.  Wonder if this is the best option.  I've seen installation where there is no foam used.  The flooring is not going to move much due to the size. 

Should finish the subfloor repair in a couple days.  The sub floor thickness that was there was ~1", two sheets of 1/2" thick OSB type material.  This material was not glued together so it really didn't provide much strength, but the metal tubing cross members are spaced fairly close together.

I decided to go with a 3/4" piece of treated plywood thinking this would provide more support and then a 1/4" piece of underlayment.  I am going to put some metal splice plates underneath to tie everything together, add support.  I will go ahead and use some adhesive  with shorter screws to hold the underlayment down.  I will have to get creative in one small area where I left the 1/2" piece, this is only about 12" wide, will probably double up on the 1/4" underlayment and possibly use epoxy to laminate them together for strength.  Short span so I think this will work.  

Wondering if I should put pieces of 1/4" underlayment across the whole area prior to putting the flooring down. 

 

 

[Chargerman]

I am not sure of the brand it was but I was in Lowes a couple weeks ago shopping for flooring for a friends bathroom. They had what they labeled as a commercial grade vinyl plank product. My friend decided to go with a less expensive product due to cost but this commercial product was very substantial and seemed bulletproof. We went down the line of samples with his knife trying to see how easy it was to scratch them. All scratched relatively easy until we got to the highest end commercial product. Literally could not scratch it. Sorry I didn’t get the name but I do know that the isle started with the cheapest junk and this product was at the very end. Considering your use I would definitely look for the highest quality vinyl plank. It was a very nice looking product also. 

Edited December 20, 2021 by Chargerman

[JDCrow]

We went with ProCORE from Lowes. We had to order it since we were after a certain look, ie very light color as to minimize dog hair showing all the time. 😂

We bought a guillotine type cutter, no mess. 
The ProCORE has a dense foam backing, I put a coat of Zinsler first, but there are now very cool roll on waterproofing that is used as a house wrap alternative, or for tile projects.

 

 

[jacwjames]

1 hour ago, Chargerman said:

I am not sure of the brand it was but I was in Lowes a couple weeks ago shopping for flooring for a friends bathroom. They had what they labeled as a commercial grade vinyl plank product. My friend decided to go with a less expensive product due to cost but this commercial product was very substantial and seemed bulletproof. We went down the line of samples with his knife trying to see how easy it was to scratch them. All scratched relatively easy until we got to the highest end commercial product. Literally could not scratch it. Sorry I didn’t get the name but I do know that the isle started with the cheapest junk and this product was at the very end. Considering your use I would definitely look for the highest quality vinyl plank. It was a very nice looking product also. 

Was this the Smartcore Pro product??

Haven't decided on color yet, we have so many different color dogs I doubt it will make a difference as far as dog hair.  The Curly Coated retriever is black and it sheds worse then any other dog we've owned.  Just have to learn to live with it.

We had installed a snap lock type laminate before and it actually held up pretty well.  It was a darker color but this time may go with a medium color to try and lighten up the look.  We have Walnut cabinets, which are pretty dark. 

 

Edited December 20, 2021 by jacwjames

[Chargerman]

I’m sorry but I’m not sure of the brand or series. All I know is that it was the best product that the store carried. It was labeled commercial and was by far the best product that they stocked. 

[Chargerman]

I called the Lowes store I was at but he can’t say for sure which one I saw. It’s either that Pro series or a Shaw product. I’ll try to get there in the next day or two to look it up and let you know. 

[JDCrow]

Here’s what we installed 

 

English Grove Oak 7-in Wide x 5-mm Thick Waterproof Interlocking Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring (23.24-sq ft) https://www.lowes.com/pd/ProCore-Plus-8-Piece-7-in-x-59-75-in-English-Grove-Oak-Luxury-Vinyl-Plank-Flooring/1003091586

[jacwjames]

OK, thanks.

I haven't looked at what the local Lowes carries, plus there are 4 other stores within 25 miles. 

Got the first 3/4" piece of subfloor in.  I had painted the bottom yesterday.  Did a test fit to make sure I measured right.  Added some truss splice plates in between the metal structure to be able to screw to and add extra support,  Also added one where I had a seam with not metal underneath.  I then used ~5 tubes of liquid nail on the bottom side, spread it out with a stiff putty knife and then dropped it in place and put some screws in it to hold it down.  Then crawled underneath and used a small foam roller to get the vapor barrier to adhere to the bottom of the flooring.  It seems like it did a pretty good job, the vapor barrier stuck when I used the roller on it and seemed to make pretty good contact but time will tell.

Before I'm done I'm going to get a can of the flex seal and spray the seams and splice plates. 

I've got to check the thickness I'll need for the next layer.  I bought a sheet of 1/4" underlayment but it almost looks like I need a little thicker material.  I have some pieces of exterior siding that are 3/8" I can use if needed. 

 

[JDCrow]

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

OK, thanks.

I haven't looked at what the local Lowes carries, plus there are 4 other stores within 25 miles. 

Got the first 3/4" piece of subfloor in.  I had painted the bottom yesterday.  Did a test fit to make sure I measured right.  Added some truss splice plates in between the metal structure to be able to screw to and add extra support,  Also added one where I had a seam with not metal underneath.  I then used ~5 tubes of liquid nail on the bottom side, spread it out with a stiff putty knife and then dropped it in place and put some screws in it to hold it down.  Then crawled underneath and used a small foam roller to get the vapor barrier to adhere to the bottom of the flooring.  It seems like it did a pretty good job, the vapor barrier stuck when I used the roller on it and seemed to make pretty good contact but time will tell.

Before I'm done I'm going to get a can of the flex seal and spray the seams and splice plates. 

I've got to check the thickness I'll need for the next layer.  I bought a sheet of 1/4" underlayment but it almost looks like I need a little thicker material.  I have some pieces of exterior siding that are 3/8" I can use if needed. 

 

Looking good 

[jacwjames]

So I had to get creative on the fitting the final pieces of subfoor to get it to match the rest of the flooring.  Seems like all plywood is odd thicknesses.  I had bought a piece of underlayment normally but it was too thin.  I then remembered I had some piece of exterior siding and check this and it was almost perfect.  I still had to fill in the ~16" wide piece close to the tile so decided to just used the exterior siding, cut it into widths I could run through my planer and got ti to match the 3/4" exterior plywood I had laid first.  This worked out pretty well also.   I am going to use epoxy to adhere the 16" wide piece to the older subfloor and use Liquid Nail to lay the final piece.  Going to put silicone caulk in any joints prior to dropping the last pieces into place. 

I sprayed some mold mildew spray on the smaller piece and am waiting for that to dry out, running the heat pump to warm it up in the coach.  I'll lay/attach the new pieces tomorrow or Thursday. 

Overall this part of the floor replacement went better then I expected.  Total cost so far is ~$100, mostly for the 3/4" piece of treated plywood. 

I also ripped the carpeting out of the LR slide.  I will be able to start laying new flooring soon.  I stopped at Lowes yesterday to see what they had in stock.  A pretty good selection of both the Procore and the Smart Core products. 

Here's a picture of the final pieces of subfloor dry fit.  This is actually already primed on the bottom side and is a really high density plywood so I think it will work pretty good.  The 3/4" piece provides for more support then the original 1/2" piece they used. 

 

[jacwjames]

I fastened down the pieces of subfloor.  The two smaller pieces I put down first I used epoxy to help bond it to the old floor.  I then caulked all the seams before dropping the new pieces in place and then used liquid nail to help fasten it down, used self taping metal screws to secure everything down.  The floor seems stronger then the original.  I did pick up a couple cans of Flexseal to spary the area underneath but haven't gotten that far yet.   There was a JBox fastened under the flooring along with a coil of wires I assume is for air level.  I need refasten these in place and spray the heck around these. 

Did take the time to go to the local Lowes ~5 miles away to see what they had in inventory.  I had good recommendations on the Smartcore products and yesterday while I was there talked to a sales rep, who seemed knowledgeable on the products they carried.  All the ones I was interested in were "waterproof", the rep said the difference in pricing was basically the difference in thickness and durability of the top wear layer.  He ranked the ones I was interested in from Pergo, Smartcore Ultra, Smartcore Pro, Smartcore.  

Then I took my wife to look and the first thing she noticed was that some were heavily textured, she did not want that.  There were two of the Smartcore Ultra that were smooth and one of the Pergo products.  The next thing was that the Smartcore Ultra had a beveled edge with left a groove at each joint, she did not want that.  So we narrowed down the selection to the Pergo product $3.99 a sq ft and it is in stock.  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pergo-DC-WP-Champagne-Oak-17-43-SF/5001956733

I figure it will take ~220 sq ft or so.  I guess this will be my Christmas present 😁!!!!

This is a lighter color then our Walnut Cabinets so it should help lighten up the look a little.  I am planning on redoing the bedroom also including the engine hatch cover and bed shelf and bed box. 

Edited December 24, 2021 by jacwjames

[jacwjames]

So with Christmas behind us I went to Lowes and bought the flooring my wife selected.

Decided to practice laying by starting under the location of the couch which is in the slide. Fairly small area but had to contend with holes for the seat belts and couch lag bolts. Not hard just takes extra time to get the locations marked and drilled.

I used my 12" miter saw to cut the flooring to length and my table saw to rip to width where needed. This actually worked pretty well and resulted in a good clean cut. Was able to finish laying this area in a couple hours. Installed the seat belts and slide the coach into place but didn't fasten it down.

I still have to trim out the front of the slide that is visible, not sure what I'll do there. I have several species of wood that may work for this, oak and elm. Just have to see how well it matches, may have to play with some stains.

Not sure if I'll go ahead and lay the front portion of the flooring first or start tearing out the flooring in the bedroom and do that first.

[JDCrow]

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

So with Christmas behind us I went to Lowes and bought the flooring my wife selected.

Decided to practice laying by starting under the location of the couch which is in the slide. Fairly small area but had to contend with holes for the seat belts and couch lag bolts. Not hard just takes extra time to get the locations marked and drilled.

I used my 12" miter saw to cut the flooring to length and my table saw to rip to width where needed. This actually worked pretty well and resulted in a good clean cut. Was able to finish laying this area in a couple hours. Installed the seat belts and slide the coach into place but didn't fasten it down.

I still have to trim out the front of the slide that is visible, not sure what I'll do there. I have several species of wood that may work for this, oak and elm. Just have to see how well it matches, may have to play with some stains.

Not sure if I'll go ahead and lay the front portion of the flooring first or start tearing out the flooring in the bedroom and do that first.

Awesome! Great choice on the floor 

[jacwjames]

1 minute ago, JDCrow said:

Awesome! Great choice on the floor 

Thanks, once I get a larger area done it will provide for a better view as to how it will look.  Too late to turn back now.

I looked at the step cover today, did you take the whole thing out or just the front off.  Did you glue the material you put on it down?? 

[JDCrow]

14 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Thanks, once I get a larger area done it will provide for a better view as to how it will look.  Too late to turn back now.

I looked at the step cover today, did you take the whole thing out or just the front off.  Did you glue the material you put on it down?? 

I put all new wood in steps, reused The wood on the sides after drilling new holes for more lights. 
 

The plywood was super tacky from removing the rubber that was on it, so new plywood was easier than working with the old tacky stuff 

Edited December 26, 2021 by JDCrow

[jacwjames]

Spent about 5 hours laying some of the flooring.  As usual the hardest part is starting and getting the layout in you head, fortunately I had already done this once and used the same approach and I actually used a couple of the old pieces as templates.  Once I got a couple rows in and made sure the alignment was good I used some blocks and shims to hold it in place under the slide.  This worked great as I didn't have to worry about the part I laid moving around. 

Sill have some tedious portions under the dash and steering column but I should be able to get most of the front done tomorrow. 

[Dr4Film]

Excellent job, Jim! I like the color of the flooring your wife picked out.

[jacwjames]

Once we narrowed down the choices due to, durability, texture of finished floor, no groves at joints, color/shade, and I wanted something that was in stock there was really only one choice. 

Since we have Walnut cabinets we decided to go with a lighter shade, not real light but lighter.  So far it's looking pretty good.  I am going to go ahead and redo the stair entrance and step cover.  I had left the carpeting in place the last time and wish I had changed it ever since so it is time. 

[jacwjames]

So I finished the front portion of the RV. 

One thing I found out is the Pergo snap lock type vinyl plank flooring is harder to put in then the previous laminate I installed.  Once you place a new plank lengthwise and click it in it is harder then heck to get it to move to get the small width portion to snap.   In a couple places I actually used a 5' wood working cabinet type clamp to maintain pressure so I could get it to snap/lock. 

But I got the front done and looks pretty good. 

I tore out the carpeting on the steps and will tackle that tomorrow.

I have a question as to how is the vinyl plank held in place, small staples along the perimeter or would screws be better.  I'm going to go back and look at some posts and see if there are any tell tale signs of how it's attached.  

[jacwjames]

4 minutes ago, Ernie Ekberg said:

Since I use material that is tongue and groove construction and adhered to the floor, you will have to secure it with some staples or it will move around.

what are you proposing for transition between tile and new material?

Ernie Ekberg

Thanks Ernie, that's what I suspected. 

I haven't decided on the transition and haven't looked what might be available at Lowes or HD.  I will have a bunch of different transitions to deal with, steps corner modling, tile to vinyl, corner modeling.  I'm going to redo the engine hatch so that will be interesting.

I have several species of wood and may see if any might work.  White Oak and Elm may work, similar graining, with a stain to get close to the color of the vinyl.  I actually made the transitions for on the previous laminate, used Oak, stained it to match, put Poly on it, they held up really well.   May do the same thing.  I have all the wood working equipment to make any transition I need, am retired with nothing better to do!. 

[Chargerman]

Lowes will have the transition kits with the same color to match the flooring. Unfortunately, the base for those are usually installed before laying the floor. You still can use them but you will have to cut the flooring back to allow the base to be installed onto the subfloor. The cut doesn’t have to be perfect as the transition piece covers it. Also be careful using too many fostered around the perimeter or it will have the potential to buckle when very hot and humid

[jacwjames]

1 hour ago, Ernie Ekberg said:

Just don’t ruin the job by using tacky gold metal

The thought even entered my mind.

This the type of woodworking I do, Sassafras doors from lumber I harvested off the property we built our house on.  Stair case is Ash and Cherry, both harvested off the property. 

I try to do things as best I can, that's why I'd rather make transition pieces from a similar grain wood then buy something. . 

 

[jacwjames]

I had to go to Lowes and looked at what transition pieces they had that matched the flooring.  They only had a flat floor transition, I could make it work for the ceramic to vinyl but I was surprised that it didn't really match that well.  Even the salesman had to check to make sure I had the right one and also commented on the color difference.  So I'm still contemplating my options but I might go into the floor transition making business😄

So I worked on the entry steps today.  I decided to tightly fit the sides and let them essentially float and then I used the riser facing to press the sides in and glued the riser facing using liquid nail using clamps to press it tight in place long enough to get it to bond.  I took the step cover completely out and  laid the vinyl on top using liquid nail to hold it in place and then cut a piece to put on the front.  Once I get the transition pieces for the top edge it will all be secure. 

Lowes didn't have any new step tread covers so I put the old in place until I find some.  We actually had pieces of carpet cut to put on the steps an may to d the same thing.  This helped capture some of the dirt before bringing it the coach. 

 

[jacwjames]

So while I decide on what transition pieces I end up using I've moved my attention back to the bedroom

I removed the bed and stripped the carpeting off the slide platform and installed flooring on it.  I stripped the carpeting off the bed box and the rest of the flooring in the bedroom.  Went pretty fast. 

I did find that the rollers under the bed started to dig grooves into the bottom of the bed frame so I will be installing metal plates on the bottom.  Both rollers were not mounted parallel with the direction of the bed movement which probably contributed to the wear.  Will reposition when I reinstall. 

I am at a cross roads regarding the engine hatch.  The carpeting is definitely showing it's wear and any time you pull the engine hatch and work on the engine it seems to get a little dirtier no matter how you try to protect it.   For now I've

For those of you that redid the engine hatch how did you attach the new flooring?  Is it worth the effort.  Not sure what I'll get into if I start this???