Debra Stout Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 We just installed a Samsung RF18 in our motorhome & need ideas as to how a person secures the refrigerator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Kruchten Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 A bent strip of B2 stainless. Looks factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 I have a furnace under mine so I took quite a bit of work to install the Samsung including modifying the cabinet and lowering the furnace. When I installed mine I started by adding blocks at the rear and rear sides that kept the refrigerator centered and held off the back wall On the bottom I bought 2 heavy angle brackets from Lowes and used the two adjustable feet at the front to secure the bottom. I removed the two adjusting feet, held the brackets up to this and marked a hole and drilled it, then attached the angle bracket to the bottom using the leveling legs that I had removed and then screwed the bracket to the front of the lower portion of the frame below. I had modified the front of the frame. On the top I bought a piece of 2" aluminum angle from Lowes and cut a couple 10" pieces from it and then drilled holes in to be able to screw to the face of the fridge cabinet and used the heavy two sided 3M tape to attach the angle to the Fridge. I painted both the angle brackets and the AL angle black before installing so they aren't really that noticable. Fridge has not shifted at all even driving some pretty rough roads. 5 minutes ago, Brad Kruchten said: A bent strip of B2 stainless. Looks factory. This looks great but doesn't allow for much airflow for the refrigerator. I left mine open at the bottom because of the furnace but also left a ~1/2" gap on the sides and top. Even mine doesn't have the recommended air flow space but seems to do OK. Here's a picture of my upper side bracket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Kruchten Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 I left my back vent and rough vent open to allow convection circulation. Plus the bottom And top of the fridge is open as well just like it would be in a house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 Brad, I sealed up the refrigerator vents, both the one behind and the one in the ceiling. If makes sense to leave them open as you would get t air flow across the back. But when I was doing research on my install I found both pro's and con's doing it this way with the biggest con being that if you camp in cold weather the refrigerator may not work since the temp in the refrigerator compartment may drop to low. I even read where people had to go back and seal up the holes. I guess if you were in cold weather you could try and seal the lower vent. During real hot weather the compartment may also get hot reducing the cooling efficiency. Most of the threads I read the installers opted to seal up the vents so that's what I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Kruchten Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 I see both side. I do not camp in cold weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 The few times we camp when really cold I wrap the bottom vent in plastic. Rest of the time both are open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim McGarvie Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 Very interesting debate. When I installed a residential fridge in our coach, I read all the pros and cons, and for me it was no-brainer: Treat the residential fridge as though it were in a residence; i.e., no exterior vent. I have pretty good space around the fridge, as called for in the installation manual. Had I left the exterior vents open they would let air in and out, usually contrary to what we are trying to do with our rig's insulation, furnace and air conditioning. Oh, and then there is the dust we often find when boondocking in the desert. Just my two cents worth. This is like debating politics or religion. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 For those who have installed a Samsung 18MF or similar in an early 2000-2005 model DP, like the DST, where the previous Norcold 1200 is mounted above a furnace return that needs to be modified. If you have pics or can describe the modifications made to the Furnace return please post any details. I am looking at making this modification to my 2005 DST and am struggling to figure how best to do this. Note: in our rig the existing fridge is not on a slide and is mounted over a furnace return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 Here's a post I did on IRV2 https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/samsung-install-finally-done-461001.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 12 hours ago, 1nolaguy said: For those who have installed a Samsung 18MF or similar in an early 2000-2005 model DP, like the DST, where the previous Norcold 1200 is mounted above a furnace return that needs to be modified. If you have pics or can describe the modifications made to the Furnace return please post any details. I am looking at making this modification to my 2005 DST and am struggling to figure how best to do this. Note: in our rig the existing fridge is not on a slide and is mounted over a furnace return. There an excellent, detailed write up by Bob Nodine ( @Bob Nodine ) in our Downloads section. I used this guide when I installed mine. Hope that helps!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 Thanks Scotty. I'll check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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